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matto6

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Everything posted by matto6

  1. Right, I realize I don't need to do it to be legal. But adding weight to the slide changes the recoil behavior of the gun. Is the weight increase not enough to worry about?
  2. Thanks. No real down side? It doesn't sit higher or anything?
  3. I am thinking of putting an SRO on my Shadow 2 and trying to understand the pros and cons of the various options 1. Buy complete OR upper. Expensive, and I don't see any for sale right now. 2. Have CZ custom mill for their mounting plate system. Pros: Flexibility, and can re-install a rear sight. Cons: optic sits a bit higher (?) and it's a bit uglier. 3. Direct mount by CGW, CZC, Primary machine. Pros: Cheaper and lower. Cons: can never reinstall a rear sight. Or are there rear sight plates that would fit an SRO/Holosun mount? I'm leaning toward just doing a direct cut for an SRO/Holosun but would like to hear more before pulling the trigger. I'm also confused about lightening the slide. I really have no desire to do this, but I can't say I'm excited about the idea of a heavier slide either , once I add a dot. Will the added weight be significant in terms of how the gun recoils? Should I be planning to lighten enough to bring it back to stock weight, or is this not a big deal for someone relatively new? Thanks!
  4. I'll give it a try tomorrow. However, in my experience, the faster I pull the trigger the more likely I am to flinch, because my body can better predict when the gun can go off.
  5. Haha, yeah maybe we just need to trade guns I have actually done quite a bit of that drill. It's very good. If I do it slow speed it no longer works because my subconscious as figured out that there's no bullet. I've moved on to full ball and dummy and it works pretty well. Another thing I found is that most of my flinch doesn't come from my wrists, but my arms and shoulders. If I keep my neck and shoulders relaxed, the flinch is less likely, and much smaller if it happens.
  6. Thanks guys. Which is the "thicker kydex"? It's not an option here, so I guess you're referring to a different holster? https://www.jmcustomkydex.com/p/Q-Range-Competition-OWB-Holster.html
  7. I'm a new shooter and I've been struggling with recoil anticipation. A few thousand rounds of practicing drills and I thought I had started to mostly beat it. But then I bought a Beretta LTT 92G. I got the LTT because I have large hands and the grip fits me perfectly. With some LOK grips the thing locks in my hand. I dry fire it like a pro: the sights don't move at all. Based on my dry firing I predicted I would shoot it far better than any of my other guns. But then I actually shot it (3 times now, ~500 rounds) and I'm terrible with it. Below are two targets at 10 yards, DA trigger pull only. The left target is my CZ Shadow 1, the right is the LTT. (And it's not the gun - it's accurate if I shoot from a rest) With the LTT I think my anticipation is back. My theory is that it's because the trigger breaks so far back on the Beretta. By the time my finger gets all the way back near my other fingers, my brain is like - "screw this, I'm not waiting any longer. Something should have happened by now. I'm flinching." Goddamn, this anticipation thing is really frustrating. Part of me says - this is fixable through training, and once I fix it the Beretta will be a better platform for me given how solidly I can grip the frame. But the other part says, screw that - why fight more battles than you need to - just shoot the CZ. I was planning on running an RMR on the Beretta but I could always have the Shadow slide milled if I want to go that route. Does anyone else have trouble shooting Berettas?
  8. Does anyone have a recommendation for a holster that'll work well with the Beretta LTT 92 full size? I bought this Comp-Tac International Outside The Waistband Holster, and it is a steaming pile of garbage. https://www.opticsplanet.com/comp-tac-international-outside-the-waistband-holster.html I have Comp-Tac's for my Shadow 2 and X5 Legion and they are great. But this one above does not work well for the Beretta. 1. It had wings/flaps on both sides to protect the trigger guard, and I caught them on the draw. So I dremeled them off. 2. It has more of a mushy friction than a 'click' 3. The mushy friction exists and is too tight even when the screws are fully loose 4. The mushy friction is inconsistent depending on the direction of pressure you put on the gun, so I get wildly inconsistent draws. Sometimes it slides out, sometimes it gets stuck entirely. I think I need to throw it in the garbage and start fresh. Any suggestions?
  9. Ahhh, the rifling. I hadn't thought of that. Yeah I'm not too worried about the diagonal but I've heard a few times to "Try to make it straight up and down". I guess that was bad advice. I'm reading Ben Stoegers book now. Maybe he'll touch on this topic. Thanks everyone!
  10. Nothing fancy added to the gun. Production. I have a couple different guns, which react differently. But the Beretta LTT tends to come back right on target very nicely. I think it's the gun I'm going to stick with for a while.
  11. That depends on whether I anticipate the recoil or not I have a problem with shot anticipation that I'm struggling with, but slowly improving. If I manage not to flinch, I hit dead on. But some percent of the time they hit way low left. But I think none of that is related to the recoil path itself. Totally different fish to fry.
  12. What's the pencil test? Put a pencil in the barrel and see how far it pops up in the air when you dry fire?
  13. No experience with casepro, but I'm pretty happy with my "manual" rollsizer driven by a home depot drill. Not the best, but good enough. Kinda fun and a tiny fraction of total reloading time/effort.
  14. Sorry but I'm a bit confused. You shoot with that extension duct taped onto the SRO and covering the ejection area?
  15. I have P01 and it's wonderful. I'm tempted to send it to CGW for a trigger. Everyone raves about them. However I recently bought an LTT Elite 92 Full Size and love it. I started thinking.. should I get an LTT compact to carry for consistency with my competition/range gun? The 92 Compact is good bit longer than the P01 though an I'm not sure that'll work for me for aiwb. I've got a JMCK Wing Claw 2.0 in the mail for my P01 so I'm going to see how I like it and how much room I have below the muzzle. If there's no room, then guess the 92 compact is out. I think the only way for me to carry a gun longer than the P01 appendix is if I move from 12:30-ish to more like 1:30 and have it canted at a step angle to align with the crease with my leg when i sit down. For this carry position I think a more rounded holster like a Keepers will work better. This video gives a nice comparison.
  16. I like the idea of a smal DA/SA gun for carry so I want to like the PX4 Compact. But I can't get past the fact that it is essentially the same size and weight as a CZ P07 or P01, but has a 3.2" barrel vs 3.7 for CZs. Regarding the 92 compact if the specs are correct, the LTT 92 Compact appears to be lighter than the regular 92 compact (28.5 oz vs 31.6 oz). Is this all in the slide??? That means the LTT 92 Compact is only 1 oz heavier than the PX4 Compact.
  17. matto6

    92 x holster

    I'll say this - I have the LTT 92 full sized and I got the "Comp Tac International Outside the Waistband Holster", and I absolutely despise it. There's a ton of friction (even when fully loosened) but it's mostly mush not "click". It just feels wedged in there The angle you pull at massively changes the amount that it wants to stick in the holster. Some draws come right out, others yank the holster up your belt. I had to dremmel off materal around the trigger guard to avoid my hand from catching it while drawing The Comp Tac's for my CZ's and Sig X5 are completely fine, but this one is a steaming pile of garbage.
  18. I'm relatively new and working on my grip and follow up shots. I'm using a Mantis X10 to track my recoil path and it's slighly diagonal no matter what I do. I spent an hour gripping with my support hand, different angles, etc. I discovered the importance of locking my wrists (it reduced muzzle climb significantly over just squeezing the hell out of the grip) but I was unable to change the recoil angle much. Do people actually get it going straight up and down? Does it really matter, or should I just let it be diagonal and focus on learning to be consistent?
  19. This thread has the video to Ben describing it!
  20. I'm a new shooter and I've been struggling with this as well. I have been moving the gun to my eye rather than my eye to the gun, under the theory that 1. vision is critical and shouldn't be messed with and 2. muscle tension bad. However, I do find that it creates more angles in my wrists and grip than I'm happy about. I had recently tried moving my non-dominant foot further forward (as suggested above) and I think it helps. I'm going to try this more so thank you!
  21. That Ben video is great. I struggle with pre-shot anticipation so I will work on exactly the drills he advocates.
  22. I'm a newbie so I don't really know what I'm doing. But here's a great video with interviews of a bunch of world-class shooters who would disagree with the "grip harder" mantra. (Here "grip" means hands, not wrists. Locked wrists are critical)
  23. Also - this is not directly addressing how to learn a DA trigger, but this interview with Langdon is pretty interesting and got me jazzed up about DA/SA in general. "It feels like cheating" (Link is to 1:06 where he starts talking about this topic)
  24. I have the same problem. I dry fire like crazy and everything is wonderful. Then I go to the range and my brain freaks out. My trigger finger pauses during the DA pull. My arms flinch anticipating the recoil. It's nuts. I think dry fire only helps if you do it intermixed with a lot of life fire. Otherwise your brain treats them as two different activities and the lessons from one don't transfer to the other. That's the theory I'm going with anyway. I'll let you know if it works for me.
  25. I started this year. A lot of folks told me I should start with a 550 and only later add a 750 or 1100. But I just couldn't get past the idea of manual indexing. I went straight to a 750 and boy am I glad I did. It's great. I added a bullet feeder a few month later and it makes it even better. I could see really liking the 1100, but I just couldn't justify the price difference. Plus I found a 750 for sale while the 1100 was on 20-week backorder. But I have a feeling I'll own an 1100 eventually.
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