vince
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Posts posted by vince
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On 2/24/2020 at 4:50 PM, DIYguy said:
Sort brass for calibur first as 9mm and 40 love to "sex" while tumbling. Sorting bins and a 5g bucket do the trick.
I've wet tumbled with the Frankford tumbler for years using the pins but got tired of busting recapping pins, finding pins lodged in by 6.5 cases and having to inspect every case for the prodigal pin. With 9mm I found tha frequently a pin would lodge in the flash hole and my decapping pin would deflect and multiple time if I didn't stop in time, the end of the decapping spindle would bend. Stopped using pins now just use Dawn and one cap full of Frankford Brass Cleaner (or Lemi Shine)
For pistol brass after rinsing I tumble again for about ten to fifteen minutes using Armor-All Wash n Wax to coat the brass to help from tarnishing.
Very hot, soft water for tumbling.
Still use the Frankford media separater before drying to get as much water out of the cases as possible.
For years I've used a food dehydrator which is the same manufacturer as the Hornady, just less expensive. Does a great job but I found it baked water spot on my brass. Now I use the towel method. Roll around, pat, small fan to blow across cases over night. Looking at building my own tumbler with a blower to tumble the brass while drying.
Lots of methods, your mileage may vary.
Absolutely awesome! Pretty much where i`m at today. Pins were a pain in the ass. I dont use them anymore either.
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On 2/11/2020 at 6:25 PM, looking4reloadingdeals said:
No problem, hope it works out for you
Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkHey, L4R,
just wanted to let you know that i checked out your spreadsheet, and i tried a couple of your titegroup loads... oh man just awesome!!!
Got some good shoots this past week using your data! THANK YOU!
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Well hopefully if i did this right, it should be view able here
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14 minutes ago, Charlestiller said:
Could you take some pictures of this O ring setup and post them please?
Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkI sure will if i can get them from my phone into my computor! Give me some time, i`m an old f_rt so it takes me a bit to get it onto the forum.
I`m actually surprised i havent seen more people do this. I`ve been using orings on the shell plates dating way back to the days when i bought my first hornady pro-jector press in the 80`s.
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1 hour ago, AHI said:
The DENATURED alcohol that is available locally takes a lot (hours)to evaporate.
We use the red bottle of ISO HEET . Depending on temp and humidity it will evaporate very fast.
Yes, the red HEET is what i usually use.
Yeah i dunno, i haven`t tried the denatured alcohol yet. I was just asking if anyone here had tried it, or what they thought about it.
I`m wondering about acetone too... that evaporates super fast. I might look into trying it and see what happens.
My worry with the acetone is that it will eat up the internal parts of the spray bottles real quick.
Its one of those scenarios where, "Oh, the acetone works way better, but now i`m buying 10 times more spray bottles now"...lol
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16 minutes ago, Tunachaser said:
"You have to set the rod to allow the priming slide bars to go past "center" a few thousandths, then when it comes back towards the sub-plate, wah lah, primer is there for the next round! "
X2
and one other thing I have found helpful is to occasionally run a Q-tip through the primer feed tube. I put some alcohol on the first end and leave the second one dry, then push it through with the primer follower (part #10). A clean primer system is a thing of joy.
Exactly, thank you, you get it!!! I actually use my stainless rifle cleaning rod with a JAG and a tiny patch to clean my priming tubes. Clean it just like i do any barrel of my guns. I`ll run a few patches (with gun cleaner) thru it until its clean, then run a couple last patches with some brak-kleen to clean out and evaporate any residue left behind. Talk about smooth operating afterwards.
I always keep a can of compressed air on the bench at all times too, just to give a shot of air into the primer cup and slide bar to make sure nothing got in there. I have yet to have a problem with the priming systems on any of my LNL AP`s. And being that the hornady powder measure's are good and tight, i never see powder leakages. Past dillon powder measures i`ve had, were a nightmare for powder puking all over the place.
I also got rid of the LNL AP steel shell plate retainer springs too. Those retainer springs are a joke on the LNL AP press. I just run a rubber oring on them instead. No powder jumping out of the cases anymore when the shell plate moves to the next stage. The oring also actually absorbs the shock when the shell plate turns. The oring also holds the case more firmly into the shell plates. I rub a very tiny film of lube on the oring, then install it under the shell plate. If there were ever an improvement anyone could do on a LNL AP press, replace the steel retaining shell plate spring and install an oring. Biggest improvement you`ll ever do to these presses. Not to mention, the price you have to pay hornady for those worthless shell plate retaining springs is just ridiculous. You can buy a bag of orings dirt cheap, and they last longer.
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As the title states... like to hear from others that make their own case lubes. I`ve been using 99% alcohol and Lanolin (liquid) 8:1 ratio for many years with good success.
Ok, now i`m just going to throw this out there at everyone just to see what responses become of it...
What do you think, or what is your opinion of, using Denatured Alcohol instead of just ordinary Alcohol and the Lanolin (liquid). (???)
Reason i`m asking about the Denatured alcohol is, is that it dries far quicker than regular alcohol. But i dont know if it would hurt anything (primers/powders)
I have also been recently testing the Hornady "UNIQUE" case lube and mixing it to my 8:1 ratio, and seems to work identical to the lanolin/99% alcohol case lube.
Being that Lanolin (liquid) is so hard to find without having to order it on line, the Hornady "UNIQUE" is available most anywhere in most gun stores with reloading supplies. (and its alot cheaper than lanolin)
One other lube recipe i`ve been playing around with, is Castor oil and 99% alcohol. I`ve noticed the Castor oil stays mixed very well. And Castor oil is very easy to find, and cheaply.
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14 hours ago, 4n2t0 said:
What are you talking about? Who questioned your reloading experience?
Again, just because something works for you, in your setup, doesn't mean it works well in all applications.
Understood, i`m good with it at this point. Not really looking to argue anyway
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Amen guys
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On 2/14/2020 at 6:45 PM, looking4reloadingdeals said:
Vice, I totally see the point you’re trying to make, but a lot of the increase in price is due to inflation. After a quick google search (again quick, this may not be the most accurate example), I found an inflation calculator and this is what I came out with:
So while things do go up in price because of demand and stricter gun laws and all of those factors, there is also inflation as well.
To the OP, as pretty much everyone here said it’s probably best to hang onto it for a little while longer, and then after another year or two you still feel the same way and still aren’t shooting then it may be the time to look at selling it. Again, as others have stated, I think your absolute best choice would be to take one weekend a month for the next couple months and just absolutely crank out rounds and try to make it through as much as you can/all of your components then you shouldn’t need to buy any ammo for a long time. Or if you can only afford one or two weekends, spend that time working on it and sell off the rest if you think that’s the route you want to go.
After all this, you probably should’ve expected these answers right? This is a reloading and shooting forum and everyone will always try to keep you in the sport
good luck with your decision
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I hear yah... i did consider inflation. Thats the parts that sucks...lol. Sure would like it to go back 30yrs just for one day so i could buy up some more components...lol.
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On 12/22/2019 at 8:11 PM, DJRyan13 said:
Depends on caliber. I loved the Hornady feed/seat die in 223. But if you run a bunch of calibers, MBF - no question. The Hornady feed dies in pistol are a PITA. People will tell you they work great with all sorts of polishing and work. Why bother?????
I`ve never polished any of mine. They work just fine.
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On 2/10/2020 at 8:02 PM, 4n2t0 said:
You're going to learn that the "Indian's" on this board have a lot of collective experience. Just because something works for you, in your setup, doesn't mean it works well in all applications.
Well, i`m guessing by your statement that i dont have much experience. Is 50yrs reloading experience enough? I dont know why people are having such problems with them. I have several of the hornady bullet feeder dies, (and many presses) and they all run perfectly fine with any bullets i`ve used in them. So i guess your right, they work fine, for me.
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May have to chamfer the small primer hole open a little bit more, and polish it too. I use flitz polish with a dremel tool. Seen a couple i`ve had to do that to, to let the primer drop easier into position. But DO NOT enlarge the primer hole down inside the bar!
I would just polish the large primer bar chamfered area. Most i`ve seen dont really need re-chamfering. You can get away with using your case chamfering tools. Be careful using a carbide one though, as it will cut extremely fast.
And i recommend people to stay off youfool (youtube), there is a few people saying these primer bars have to be set zero centered...NOT TRUE! You have to set the rod to allow the priming slide bars to go past "center" a few thousandths, then when it comes back towards the sub-plate, wah lah, primer is there for the next round!
Just got done loading 1,000 rounds of 9mm`s, and 500 rounds of 45acp`s for this coming weekends club shoot. Both LNL`s ran non-stop without a hiccup.
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On 2/22/2020 at 11:41 PM, Charlestiller said:
Stoning on the primer system is an absolute must right out of the box! Once you get that squared away it’s really just small adjustments to get them to run smooth!
Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkYes, i totally agree. Stone BOTH of the primer bar`s, they do have crappy burrs most of the time on them right out of the gate.
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17 hours ago, looking4reloadingdeals said:
No problem, hope it works out for you
Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkThanks buddy
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10 hours ago, m700 said:
Those may be from the primer. Primer is mostly brass. If you are now tumbling after brushing pocket that may be why you don't see them. If you're getting good results than you dont need them but I bet if you stopped the brushing before tumbling you'd get them again..
I thought the same thing too, and i`ve tried it both ways a few times already. The stainless pins are definitely removing some brass from the cases without a doubt.
I`m just going to continue removing the primer and cleaning the primer pockets. I dont really care to use the pins. Its a pain in the butt dealing with them.
Plus it gives me something to do by depriming and cleaning primer pockets. I`m retired... always looking for things to do with my time...lol.
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On 2/3/2020 at 2:02 AM, Absocold said:
8.3 grains of HS6 in 9mm, even under a 115 grain bullet, is getting close to big boy territory.
That right there is NO JOKE! I had 8.2 grain loads using 115gr bullets just about destroy my Sig P938!
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When i prep my brass before washing, i resize, deprime, clean out the primer pockets.
I dont even use the stainless pins anymore, and my brass is perfectly clean and shiny.
I wet tumble in Turtle Wax "ICE" and LEMME SHINE couple hours.
Frankfort tumbler and Frankfort dryer. Absolutely NO water spots.
I stopped using the steel pins after seeing alot of brass particles in the cloth screen that i used to catch the pins.
Since then, i`ve not seen much of any brass particles after washing.
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2 hours ago, looking4reloadingdeals said:
This is a thread I started where I post chrono data when I take it.
https://forums.brianenos.com/topic/281435-9mm-load-data-with-titegroup-powder/
Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkAwesome! Thank you! Depending on how my 147gr CFE-Pistol loads work out, i`m going to try some of your titegroup loads.
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On 1/7/2020 at 8:30 PM, looking4reloadingdeals said:
Went out and tested 4 more loads today (2 of the same load) and got extremely similar results. The largest difference was just over 1fps over a 10 shot average. After this I would consider most all of the load data above close enough to start load development with. After looking at my previous set ups, the chrono was likely at about 7 feet, not 5.
The google sheet has been updated for those interested in the difference or who want to reference the sheet.
Obligatory “start low and work your way up”
Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkI dont think i would worry about it. Hell they even have chrono`s that mount right on the barrels of rifles these days.
As a rule though, i try to keep it at the distance specified by the chrono brands i`m using. They are calibrated at/for specified distances.
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1 hour ago, looking4reloadingdeals said:
I don’t have a load with flat points specifically, but I do like 3.0-3.1gr Titegroup loaded around 1.13” with Everglades 147gr RN. 3.0 works well in sp-01 with a 13lb cagun Gun works recoil spring and Glock 34 with a stock and 11lb recoil spring as long as the guns are clean. After a couple hundred rounds I start getting failures to lock open on an empty mag, but not any cycling issues. IIRC it was around 128-130 pf in my cz and ~133 in my Glock.
Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkHave you run this load thru a chronograph...? Be interesting to know those numbers.
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55 minutes ago, looking4reloadingdeals said:
I totally agree with not liking the Hornady case feeder problems. I had a lot of problems with my LNL which is why I ended up getting rid of it, but 80% of it was case feeding related. Probably 50% at the feeder, and the other 30% where the shell gets pushed into the shell plate
Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkAgreed, the case feeder hornady has, is a problem child in my opinion. The electric motors dont seem to last either.(CHINA!) I build my own case feeders, and they work, and they are WAYYYYY cheaper for me to build than what hornady, dillon, and any other electronic one made out there. The case feeding design hornady has, there isnt alot room for error when it comes to feeding the case into the shell plate. Its all in the timing. Its an ok system, but you gotta look past the case feeding system itself. Everything has to be timed perfectly. A dragging shell plate (shell plate bearing spring pressure is to much) is one of the biggest things people miss. If that shell plate drags, and its slow to get in the right detente position just at the exact moment that it should, all bets are off. If you pop the bearings back up into the shell plate with a punch a little, you fix one of the biggest issues that the LNL AP has. Once you relieve some of that bearing spring pressure, the shell plate flys around that sub-plate sooooo much smoother, and you eliminate the snappy powder jumping problem just about to zero issues. You have to add some timing to the left pawl after removing some bearing spring pressure from the shell plate to complete the index timing so that the bearings fall into the detentes at the right moment. Once you do that, you hardly ever have to adjust anything again for a very long time. Other than for the normal wear as time goes by.
As for the LNL AP, i have to stay with LNL. It would cost me WAYYYY to much to get all set up with a dillon, (as much as i would love to have the new XL750) or any other big name out there. I also think its ridiculous what they get for caliber conversions. To replace all my hornady calibers, i would surpass $5,000 to get set up in a XL750 to load all the calibers that i load for. Just dosent make economical sense for me to change, now. I have zero problems with the LNL AP presses, they just run 100% flawless for me. But then again, its all i`ve ever been around, so i know what it takes to make them work 100%. Most people that buy them dont understand them. I think ALL presses have their quirks... most brands are pretty good at making these progressive presses run decent, once you understand them.
Exception to LEE, as i am not a fan of their presses at all. Those are for the guys that dont reload everyday, and just wanna run off a box or two of ammo once in awhile. Nothing wrong with that either, its just not a brand that has ever held up good for me. LEE is good for the guys that want to get into reloading. But like anything, you get what you pay for, when it comes to reloading gear.
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I take breaks from shooting and reloading. No way would i ever sell what i have. When i got into it MANY decades ago, i couldn`t replace half of what i have for what i paid for it. With all the high cost of buying it again, (and you KNOW, the price to replace it again is gonna be outrageous) its just ridiculous to sell it all. Ammo crunch`s happen alot more often now, too. Every election cycle proves that. When they thought the dems were going to win in 2016, you couldnt find a box of ammo to save your but, BUT, because people all around me stopped shooting, because they couldn`t buy ammo, i was the guy still out there shoottin every day (almost) because i had reloading gear and components stored for bad times. And i dont see our future as gun owners that this future is going to get any better, its going to get alot worse.
And whats going to happen when components and gear will not be able to be found, and when you do, you`re gonna pay some awful big money for it. My first progressive press cost me $179 dollars back in the 80`s. That same press today is $500 dollars. Granted it has had some updates thru the years, but still, its going to cost you dearly when you sell, only to get back into it later, and you WILL, because its what we do. I predict the communists are going to tax ammo out of existence. Any of us that reload, will still be able to shoot for awhile, until they ban components, or license and register you to buy the stuff.
OP, i get what your saying... but do yourself the biggest favor you can, just clean everything, lube it up good, and pack it away. You`ll regret selling everything. Right now you dont see the time, but i guarantee, you WILL, later on. (been there done that, and glad i never sold anything) Now, if you are really hell bent on getting rid of it all, i`ll PM you my address with where to send it all. Then i`ll send you a storage invoice once a month for it just to keep it all dialed in and running fresh for you.
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Damn dillons design, gonna knock an eye out with them XL650`s dang`it!
I popped a primer once, 50yrs ago messin around. A hammer had a lot to do with it though back then.
Never popped any during any reloading session, ever. People should probably clean more often, and slow down and pay attention.
Sanity Check: getting OUT of reloading
in General Reloading
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Absolutely spot on! Same here... i`m all set, lots of lead, lots of molds, lots of time. And i`ve been making my own lubes for decades.