vince
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Posts posted by vince
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10 minutes ago, Charlestiller said:
I have a newer press. I’ll let you know once I get it setup.
Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkThats great... this should work really well for you then. I think your going to like the difference in how smooth the indexing is afterwards. Make sure you lube the oring before you install it. On a side note, i`ve had to readjust the left pawl on a couple other presses, so be aware that you might have to tinker with it just a bit if needed.
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For those that have tried this oring mod, please do a follow up in this thread in how it works for you. I`d really like to think that this is really helping people, or if its not.
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On 3/10/2020 at 2:35 PM, balmo said:
Thanks for the p/n!
Your welcome! Let me know how you make out with it. Be interesting to see if this makes people happier. It has worked flawless for me for years.
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On 3/11/2020 at 10:32 PM, Charlestiller said:
Well I just ordered a 10 pack. Thanks for the info. I can’t wait to try them on the old red press.
Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkYour welcome!
Is your press the newer LNL AP EZ-Ject press...? The older presses wont work very good with the oring.
Please do holler back and let me know how you made out with it. Dont forget to lube the oring before installing it! I use a very lite film of lanolin.
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10 hours ago, Tunachaser said:
Great idea, I use o-rings under the bolt that holds the shell plate and on the powder measure linkage, just never thought about around the shell plate.
Thanks!
You`re welcome! I`ve have had ZERO issues using the orings under the shell plate for years. Just make sure you rub some sort of lube on the oring before you install it. And also back your shell plate up with one hand, and push the oring down into the groove in the sub plate, then just walk the shell plate clockwise with your hand to feed the oring safely into the groove of the sub plate.
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On 3/10/2020 at 3:38 PM, anonymouscuban said:
By the way... link to o-ring on Amazon.
Cheaper thru McMasterCarr $6.95 (for 10 of them)
https://www.mcmaster.com/9262K939
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9 hours ago, hiker88 said:
Never read the manual
I went straight to Youtube. LOL!
Thats pretty funny... i dont know how many people i`ve heard that from, and they still had problems.
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On 3/10/2020 at 7:16 PM, louu said:
Great tip and I'm sure it works well.
The easiest free fix that works it to hammer and punch the 2 detent balls up higher on every shell plate you own. It takes 2 seconds, just a couple of light taps of the hammer will move them. Make them just above flush and if you like add a small amount of slide glide or high tac axle grease (same thing) to the shiny mark where the balls ride on the press plate. I'm actually stumped as to why this is not in the instructions (well it might be but I never read them).
That isnt a 100% fix. Been there done that with many of these LNL AP presses. The oring makes the shell plate run MUCH smoother.
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On 3/10/2020 at 3:38 PM, anonymouscuban said:
By the way... link to o-ring on Amazon.
Thank you for the link. Though i dont do amazon for my own personal reasons, it will help others i`m sure.
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On 3/10/2020 at 3:37 PM, anonymouscuban said:
Do you run a case feeder? How does the o-ring sit inside the channel compared to the spring? Does it stick out more?
The rubber oring sits perfect in the sub plate groove. The cases do not hit the oring at all, as long as you`ve lubed the oring and its in the sub plate groove properly. The nice thing about running the oring, is that it does NOT wear on the sub plate like the metal spring does. I`ve seen the metal spring actually wear the sub plates pretty hard. Now i`m sure that the metal spring wont wear out the sub plate, but why add more friction and wear to your equipment.
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On 3/10/2020 at 2:04 PM, 124gr9mm said:
Thanks for sharing.
If I try it out I'll respond with results.
Your welcome! Please do come back and let me know how it worked out for you. I have had ZERO issues ever since eliminating the metal retaining spring.
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13 minutes ago, Sarge said:
You will probably be amazed if, in the event it gets shot, what the manufacturer will do to help. A buddy shot my pro CHRONO a long time ago and they said to send it in. They pretty much rebuilt it for a modest fee.
Also got my pocket pro II wet once last year. Screen went out. They put a new screen in for around $20.
Moral of the story is to always ask.Oh no doubt sarge
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36 minutes ago, looking4reloadingdeals said:
Ouch... at least mine was only the rod that I can replace at the hardware store for a couple bucks
Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkI just bought one of the latest PACT2 PRO models. I hope that one never takes a hit, because no hardware store will ever have anything that i will be able to buy to fix it.
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58 minutes ago, AHI said:
can pretty much guarantee acetone to "eat" the pump of any spray bottle.
The bottle may survive but not the pump. Some will not hold up to alcohol.
We purchase lanolin by the gallon from medical supply vendor.
Come to think of it, and you`re right...
my last place of employment, we went thru alot of plastic spray bottle`s when we were using denatured alcohol to rinse the dye-kem off from the parts after inspection.
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1 hour ago, Sarge said:
I simply went on amazon and ordered several bottles of 99% alcohol and a bottle of liquid lanolin. Should make several years worth of lube.
Or if you have a supply already of DILLON lube just buy some 99% alcohol and cut it half.
Yeah i`ve got a few bottles of liquid lanolin off from amazon, but i was looking for cheaper alternatives and availability. I cant stand buying on amazon... their prices are ridiculous, and being i`m a cheapskate, i wont pay for the "prime" membership to get the faster shipping. But waiting 2 weeks for something to come from amazon is BS in my opinion. The hornady UNIQUE mixed with 99% (HEET) seems to be as good, or maybe even better than anything else i`ve tried. I`ve been buying the red HEET at walmart for awhile. No, i dont have any dillon case lube. I likely wont be buying any either. By the time i buy it from dillon, and then pay sales tax on it now, and then the cost shipping, its just not any way worth it to me.
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16 minutes ago, Beef15 said:
Thanks @vince
Beef, i did some research, my friend orders them for me thru McMasterCarr. I`ll post a link in here for you down below. Your welcome
https://www.mcmaster.com/9262K939
And here is the thread i started on it just incase you wanted to read it.
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12 minutes ago, hiker88 said:
Where do I buy these "magical" O-rings?
Maybe, I can do away with vacuuming my press for spilled powder every 200 rounds.
I have a friend of mine that owns a machine shop, he gets them thru McMasterCarr for me.
I suppose you could get them from amazon pretty easy. Just type the size i listed in amazon.
Yeah the "magical Orings" fixes the powder bounce nonsense, it has 100% worked for me anyways, and many others that i told to try it over the years.
I`ve yet to figure out why others haven`t thought it long before now. That`s what got me thinkin that i should share it and in hopes that it helps others.
EDIT:
I went to McMasterCarr and looked them up. Pretty sure this is the one my friend orders for me when i need them. This is a pack of 10 orings for $6.95
https://www.mcmaster.com/9262K939
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1 hour ago, looking4reloadingdeals said:
Haha ya, that data ended up being a little incomplete as I shot a rod off of my chrono that holds my lights and when shooting indoors it won’t pick up any shots without the lights
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
ohhhhhhhhhh nooooooooooooooo.... i had that happen to me, but a friend of mine did it for me...lol.... i let him borrow my chrono and it came back in a billion pieces.
He hit it right square in the middle... smoked it. He felt so bad. And yeah, he bought me a brand new one...lol. He hasnt borrowed it since...lol.
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I dont know if this information is worthy of a sticky or not, but i thought i would share this with everyone here anyway. I had posted this information many years ago online to share with others, and thought it was worth a mention because i brought it up in another thread here recently and i`ve had people show intrest in what i said. Its been a big hit on a few other forums i`ve been a member of years ago.
I`ve had a few people ask me to post on other forums what i did to stop the jumpy shell plates on the LNL AP press, to stop the powder from jumping out of the pistol cases after the case is charged. I`m sure most of us have seen all the so-called fixes all over youtube many times, but nobody ever really fixes their main problem. You never see any of those so-called fixes re-posted because what they did usually dosent fix the powder jump issues 100% because changing calibers changes every thing all over again. The most comical one i`ve seen is where this guy took a grinder to his sub plate. Its NOT necessary to do that, actually kind of stupid really. But i guess hornady dont mind selling new sub plates...lol.
Folks, every time you change calibers, your changing the shell plate, different calibers, different cases, and as soon as you go to a different caliber, the harmonics change with it, and that retaining spring dosent always work to its best ability, for you. My fix has worked for years, even way back 30+yrs ago when i bought my first Hornady Pro-Jector press brand new. The shell plate "case retaining spring" is the main culprit.
I eliminated the steel case retaining spring and exchanged it for a rubber oring. The rubber oring size that works is 2.5mm X 69mm. on the LNL AP ez-eject presses The oring dampens the shell plate as it indexes, and the oring actually keeps the case within the shell plate much firmer, and eliminates harmonics and shake as its indexing. You can still remove the cases with ease during the process with the oring installed just same as you would if it were the original steel case retaining spring.
I`ll post a picture in here of one of my LNL`s with the oring installed on the press. When you put the oring on the shell plate, i use a very lite film of lanolin. (make sure you seat the oring in the sub plate groove, walk it in by turning the shell plate by hand) Do NOT use any type of penetrating oil to lube it. Penetrating oil can weep everywhere, even down into the primer system. So stay away from petroleum based lubricants. Just a bit of history, i`ve used orings on my hornady`s way back when i got my first hornady pro-jector press back in the 80`s because you couldnt get the retaining springs shortly after that press came out. So i started using orings back then and never looked back. And if you look at what hornady is charging you for those case retaining springs, thats just nuts! Orings are far cheaper!
Now, if you have an older Hornady Pro-Jector press, you`ll need a 3.0mm X 69mm oring. The older hornadys used a bigger diameter spring. The sub plate is milled differently to allow the larger diameter shell plate retaining spring. Last time i contacted hornady, this older spring was no longer available, and for quite some time they havent had it.
Now keep in mind, i dont load rifle cases on progressive presses. I only load pistol cases on progressive presses. Pistol cases after being charged always want to toss the powder with each indexing of the press. So if anyone would like to be the test rabbit for seeing if the oring fixes, or at least settles down the rifle case and powder jump during indexing, by all means, let everybody know your results in here. I`ve never tried rifles cases, and i dont intend to. SO let everybody know how yours work out.
And keep in mind, my press is not your press, nore is your press my press, everybody`s equipment and technics are different. So dont come back in here and go off on a rant if this dosent work, for you. What i can tell you is, i`ve seen the "oring fix" put alot of happy smiles on ALOTTA people faces. YMMV!
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1 hour ago, Beef15 said:
You have a size, part number, or link where one can find these o-rings? I have close to 30k on my original spring without major issue, but I'd like to give this a try.
I suppose you can just type in the size on Amazon. It pulls it up for me every time. I have a friend of mine that gets them from McMaster Carr for me.
(Size M2.5mm x 69mm Buna-N O-Ring) I dont have the part number because he just gives them to me in a plastic bag.
I`m actually writing & posting a thread right now in the forum here, and it will have some info over there. But i`ve posted the size for you in here cause i`m not finished the other thread yet.
Now be aware, this size is only for the Hornady LNL AP Ez_Eject presses. The older Hornady Pro-Jector presses use a 3.0mm X 69mm because the sub plate is different.
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5 minutes ago, looking4reloadingdeals said:
No problem Vince, I'm glad that you were able to use it, that's why I made it. I was hoping it would help a couple guys out with some load data so its great to hear it helped you.
It sure did my friend, it sure did, thank you so much, again.
I also saw a load in there for the 45... same load i use, excellent accuracy.
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56 minutes ago, edison said:
A gallon of 100% IPA is like $10 at a beauty supply store.
hmmmmmmmm, never thought of that
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On 2/29/2020 at 11:35 PM, usmc1974 said:
I too have almost quit reloading, couple specialty guns and that's about it. You can buy ammo cheap all over the place especially from places like Grabagun. but I would never sell my reloading equipment or my reloading supplies they can sit and collect dust forever!! because God forbid the s*** hits the fan and everything about Freedom goes south you're going to want your equipment back. And the price of ammo will be totally friggen unreasonable. Of course that's just a thought and I could be wrong.
Or worse case scenario, they ban factory ammo all together! Some will say impossible... guess again, they`ll tax it right out from under you. Already seeing states pass laws where you cant buy it online, some states you have to have a special ammo card to buy ammo. They wont ever get rid of the guns, but they can make very hard for you to feed them guns, folks!
New handle design for RCBS collet bullet puller
in non-Dillon Reloading Equipment
Posted · Edited by vince
I`m thinkin that will just allow people to apply more torque than needed for such a small task. It dosent take much pressure & torque to pull a bullet.
If anything, your actually adding more stress to the tool itself.
I see 2 things happening with this...
1) bend and ruin the handle faster
2) ruin more bullets by applying more torque than is really needed to grip the bullet.
I dunno, i dont have any problem at all using my RCBS collet bullet puller.