McHaggis
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Posts posted by McHaggis
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On 4/1/2024 at 9:15 AM, GAMountains said:
Save your money.... J U N K !!!
Really useful post this without any explanation.
I’m not saying you’re necessarily wrong but do you care to share the issues you’ve encountered to form this opinion?Most times I hear this type of comment is when the user has not set it up and adjusted correctly.
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Barrel looks like the chamber is centred but there is the odd score mark and what looks like pitting around the mid point. But with the teslong image viewed on my iPad everything is magnified and even the smallest of mark looks huge.
This barrel has probably less than 2500 rounds down it so it’s still pretty new.
I’ve got a few rounds loaded with what seemed promising during testing and have them at 4 different OAL to see if there’s any noticeable difference. Just need to find time to go test during the week when it quite at the range.
I’ll report back once I’ve tried this lot.Thanks for all the ideas and suggestions to date.
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@AHI So pull them back by 0.005” at a time and shoot for groups?
I shall try that with a few loads to see if I can get better results.
I’m really beginning to thinking this CZ is a dud as I borrowed a Tangflo Stock ll extreme and shot way better with factory Geco 124RN factory loads.My CZ shot ok with the same but not nearly as good. Maybe I’ve just lucked out and ended up with a s#!tty barrel.
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Yes I was shooting mixed brass this time. The previous testing session was all done with the same head stamp (Geco) and I even weight sorted the cases. This session too produced pretty crappy groups @ 10yrds. All loads were thrown on the V3 autotrickler to 0.02grs. A heavy sand bag was used.
The barrel to stock bushing fit is fairly tight. Not as tight as cajun ones but there really isn't enough movement to cause these groups. Especially left to right.
It does seem the heavier projectiles work better. I was using 145gr LRN with 2.8gr APS350 and they seemed OK. I changed because components are in short supply here too. I usually go 0.015" back from just touching the lands. I can not find any burn speed data which included the ADI powders that are common here. I have the following I can play around with. W231 (these next ones are all ADI) APS350, APS450, AP50N, AP70N. (from fastest to slowest). W231 seems to fall somewhere between AP50N & AP70.
I'll check my results tonight to clarify.
The 125gr LCN I was trying needed to be 1.093" OAL to clear by 0.015". The Geco FMJ RN have a longish taper and I can't get them out far enough and still have a decent amount in the case. I'm talking somewhere around 1/8" and still not touching. I loaded these to 1.150" There was the odd group with these that seemed worth playing with.
Long as you can? Closer than 0.015" Just asking to clarify.
EDIT: W231 is a bit slower than AP50N. With the 124gr Geco FMJ 4.0gr W231 averaged 1004fps where as AP50N averaged 1074 with the same weight.
APS450 averaged 982fps with only 3.6gr. I’m going to try more of this as these are too slow. Groups at 3.6gr were 2.5” high by 1” wide. Maybe they will tighten up with speed? Don’t know if I don’t try but it doesn’t look promising. -
@SargeSo what increments should I try? Rifle I use 0.003" Any suggestions in powder reduction when I reduce the OAL? I was going to start bringing them down from 1.150" to 1.125" or even less to see what the resulting groups look like.
@FarmerI used a big Caldwell sand bag to help stabilize it. Off hand is just as bad which is why I'm trying to sort this. I thought it was my technique but I figured even I wasn't that bad of a shot. Seems it wasn't all me after all.
I also have a Magnetospeed hanging off the end of it during these load tests.
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I know that reducing the OAL will increase pressure etc but does this have any effect on accuracy?
I know it does in long range rifle shooting but the ranges we normally shoot pistol I just can't see it'll have much effect if any. But I need to try something....
Why you ask? Shadow 2, 125gr coated lead conical with anything behind it, running around 125-133PF the accuracy at 8yds is nasty. 2" is typical.
Going to give up on these as they just don't shoot in this CZ. OAL is 1.093"
I've also tried 124gr Geco RN FMJ and they are much better but still average. 1" + at 8yrds with 4.1gr W231 1.15" OAL.
I've also tried ADI ASP450 & AP50N behind these but these 2 generate worse groups.
I'm going to try a faster powder (APS350) and see how that goes but based on the faster powders I doubt it will be better but it works well behomg a LRN 145gr @ 127PF
All shooting is done over a sand bag rest. Yes I'm fairly new to this CZ. Been shooting it for about 16 months.
Any experience with changing seating depth and any noticed effect on group size? Really looking for any ideas here at all.
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Yes I saw that but it seems only Pistol and Shotgun powders are affected. Still it’s a complete pain in the ass as ADI powders are typically the more commonly available powders here. But at the end of the day Primers are going to stop me loading long before powder.
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Yes. Sadly we have a Prime Minister that is hell bent on driving us to ruin. The lefty’s have just started and the future looks bleak at best.
The AP50N is in that burn rate I think. I can’t find a current chart that lists all the new powders and most charts don’t list the ADI powder at all. -
10 hours ago, CocoBolo said:
w231 is the pretty twin of WST great for 40 not so much for 9 mm. The best powder I found for minor 9 mm is N320, somewhere around 3.2gr with your coated bullet should put you in the minor pf. That said in these days it is more what you can get than what you want to shoot. I never liked 147gr felt sluggish, 135gr coated is my favorite for minor 9, but you shoot what you can get now 115gr FMJ for now, I bought enough the mailman hates me now.
Powder here is also very hard to get. I’ve read many posts advocating the use of w231 in a 9mm so I got some as it was briefly available.
I’m expecting better results with the AP50, as it’s a little quicker, so it should give better results but that’s why we test.
I’d prefer Sports Pistol but it’s almost as rare the common sense is in the Biden administration and I have never seen it here. Here, being the bottom of New Zealand. -
10 hours ago, CocoBolo said:
As a general rule, when dealing with a new bullet profile I size a case and set a bullet longer than I intend to load being sure not to crimp. (and no powder or primer). Then I take it and chamber it in the gun I intend to shoot it in. Chambering will shorten it to the longest length that the gun will accept. Measure it then load 3 more dummies -.01 shorter and make sure they fit and dry cycle thru the gun.
This is what I normally do and hence why 95% of them fit. But it looks like I’m right at the lands so there’s little room for margin.
I might just shoot these and load a few at 1.115” with 2.80gr and crono them to see how they look and go from there.
Could this be the reason why when shooting a group at 15 yards l can get 9 in a 2.5” group but 1 is 6-8” low?
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I have the files if you’re still looking for them.
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I am going to change powders and have 3 I’m looking at sorting loads for. I was never real happy with this load but it has shot fine. I’m going to try ADI AP50, AP70 and W231 all with 125gr coated lead. Just waiting on a magnetospeed v rail adapter so I can shoot them. And also waiting to get the cast off my foot so I can walk!
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Current OAL is 1.128”. I have about 80 loaded and almost all pass the plunk test. The odd one doesn’t.
I’m using a 145gr coated lead RN in a CZ S2 with 2.84gr APS350. This is a fast powder and the load is around 128PF. The load was worked up and I’ve shot off over 1000rds with no problems.
It might just pay to leave them as is as I know they are fine as it. Load development when up to 2.9gr with no pressure signs.
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Long story so the briefest version is I need to seat a loaded lot of rounds that’s near max about 10 to 15 thou deeper to keep away from the lands.
I figure it’ll make little difference but I’m asking you guys to be sure. -
I've been mucking around with mine and it's a lot better now. I'm using Fiocchi Small Pistol Primers and trying to get them all up the right way has proved near impossible. I sprayed the tray of mine (the bit with the ridges) with dry lube and then tried again. I got 49 out of 50 up the right way 1st time and it just works better now. Seems the "rubber-ish" surface grabbed the primer cups and this caused them to flip over rather then slide over the ridges.
A huge improvement and now I'm mostly happy with it. Just saying....
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This is the file I used. It sadly not the same as the one in the video clip but it works when placed in the correct place.
Look as the location of the one pictured and put this one in the same place. Yes the leg is too long and that's why mine is currently attached with a vicegrip.
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On 11/26/2020 at 9:24 AM, jtaylor996 said:
That's pretty cool. Is there a print file for that somewhere I can download?
Kinda. I downloaded one off thingiverse but it’s not exactly the same but once positioned in the right spot it does work, But I have my one currently held on with vice grips. I’ll try to find the link. The one I have has a longer leg than the one in the clip
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I run this and it’s helped a lot. Just loaded 300 9mm today and only issue I had was one case got sideways in the funnel bit. Before running this wedge it was a right pita!
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Not that happy with mine. The ridges that flip the primers are too course and you need to get pretty aggressive to move the ones up the wrong way. This of course upsets the ones that are the right way up so you never seem to get then all the right way. So you end up flipping then with your fingers. Bloody painful after you’ve spent good money to speed up this process. Both my Lee and RCBS flip trays work very well compared to this.
But......once the primers are all ready and you get the lid on, this thing does fill tubes pretty quickly once you play with it and refine the technique.
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On 9/21/2020 at 3:50 AM, jtaylor996 said:
I'm everything in here and striking out. I tried the oring, but now my 9mm cases tip on the way into the shell plate. So I went back to the spring. Then I had powder spill. So I recessed the balls, and then it wouldn't spill powder, but it also wouldn't index correctly for the priming station.
I guess I'll keep playing with the balls. I haven't measured, but I'll aim for .010" - 0.15", but I'm pretty sure I iterated through that range yesterday.
There is some play in the shell plate. It can tip a bit up and down when fully screwed in. Is that normal for everyone?
Shouldn't tilt. I'll check mine when I'm home but if yours is the hub may have worn in the sub plate? Not ideal.
I just checked mine and the shellplate is firm with no noticeable tilting at all.
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Or this could work? Thingieverse https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4070560
I did use the o-ring with lanolin and that works a treat.
This could be a viable option and selecting the right spring could tune it nicely. Just another option to try.
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I tried the detent trick and it worked ok. Still wasn’t great and I found that there was a bit of play in the shell plate once I got the detent to where the powder didn’t jump out all the time.
Finally found some o-rings and they are way better. Knocked the detects back in so all slop was removed and the o ring even hold the cases better. I was having the odd priming issue which is now resolved.
This is a very good mod even if you don’t suffer from powder jump. Very pleased with the results. Thanks for posting this Vince.
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I too agree about a SDB being ideal if I was just going to load 9mm and nothing else but as I've been considering a T7 for a while I also want to load 223 & do case prep for a 6.5CM on a progressive. Anyway, I have a Hornady AP on its way. If I regret it I'll let you guys know so the next undecided victim pays the extra for a Dillon. I told-you-so comments will be welcome too!
In defense of myself it seems many reloaders love their AP's but the underlying message is that set-up and maintenance is the key. Fortunately I'm very mechanical so I hope to be able to tweek it and make it work as it seems many of them do.
Now I just need to save for that Shadow 2!
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So clearly the preferred progressive is a Dillon and this was my first choice too but the poster on the other forum is well respected.
650’s here are expensive and so are parts. Not that the Hornady is cheap. It’s still about $1900 with dies and a case feeder.
What other options should I consider. I’m not looking for volume as I’m not at that stage and at best I’m probably only going to load about 500 - 9mm a month.
Frankford Arsenal FX-10 progressive press
in non-Dillon Reloading Equipment
Posted
Hey Miranda. Thanks for your reply.
GAMountians. Thanks for posting what issues you’re actually having. If that was me having those issues I’m sure I’d think it was junk too.
However…
Most times there’s issue like you’re talking about it’s either caused by adjustment not being 100% correct or alignment issues caused by a stack up of machining tolerances with put things in slightly the wrong place. I know next to nothing about the X10 which is why I’m looking around for posts of reloaders experiences to gauge if this press is worth considering as I see it’s currently on sale with a free bullet collator, which makes it even more attractive.
I currently run a LnL AP with I’ve got running great but it took a bit of playing with and a few mods but now the only annoyance is the raining brass from the collator, which I’ve almost conquered, yet most people say this press is junk too, simply because they’ve never used one and simply repeat what they’ve heard, or they never set up the one they used correctly. I’m happy with mine but I simply want more stations which is why the X10 is on my radar.
Id love to hear from anyone else that’s had good, average or bad luck with this press.