cperazza
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Posts posted by cperazza
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EMG Open Hybrid 4 Popples 38SC
Recoil Spring: 8V lbs Wolff
Mainspring: 17 lbs
Bullet: 125 gr Zero Bullets JHP Conical 136
Brass: Starline
Primer: CCI 400/500
Powder: 9.6 gr VV3N38
OAL: 1.225-1.227"
Velocity: 1,388 fps
PF: 173.575
Groups: 0.75-1.00" @ 7-10 yards standing unsupported
Warning Note: Loads can be different in every gun/barrel combination. Remember to start 10% off if not more, and work your load up.
Intent of this post is reference and get an idea of what other shooters are doing. Specially since it it's hard to get components.
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If all the screws are tight and you have confidence the sight is not moving, it might be time to talk to the manufacturer.
In my experience, it is rare but you might have a defective sight. Good luck!
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Open - R3XL larger wider window...has worked well for me.
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4 hours ago, tim_w said:
You guys might want to plug in your bullet or one of same weight and your velocity into JDM Ballistic Calculator. Any of you that are rifle shooters especially if you shoot long range as I do are likely very familiar with it so this old hat.
I think you will find for ranges from a few yards out to 50 yds a 15 yd zero will give you the least +/- POA/POI in elevation. As an example take a typical 115 gr 9mm @1100 fps. Between say 5 and 50 yds you would have a max of roughly ½" +/- POA/POI evolution. Just aim dead on.
For a max point blank range zero within a 2" variance in elevation +/- you could zero at 8yd which is also a 76yd zero and have a range of 0-90 yds and only be off by 2" of +/-. Most people unfamiliar with shooting LR with handguns would nit believe that lol.
Playing with a ballistic calculator can be interesting even with handguns. For those that do n I t know JDM is a goto for free online ballistic calculators
Right on ELR shooter here
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Currently 15 yards zero...Only shooting USPSA with the Open gun.
Option 1: change it for nationals since sometimes you can find one stage with 30-35 yard shoots (not the norm throughout the match)
Option 2: Zero at 15 or 25 yards, but know your elevation/drop (POI) at certain distances (10/15/20/25/30/35 yards)
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Gock and ETS work great on my GMR-15. Like the folks have say, check the springs and followers with the cheap mags.
Keep in mind...Some mags could give you some issues with the mag extensions (Taran/TF) depending on the ammo you use. Ammo could get stock or not be smooth to transitioning between the extension and the mag.
Additionally, for best results make sure to tune the buffer...2 Tungsten/3 Steel or 3 Tungsten/2 Steel have been some of the two combinations that have worked for me with factory ammo.
Good luck!
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Locally, haven't seen one.
Online, they pop once in a while. Just got one from here. I have seen a few other good deals here, but I didn't take advantage of them
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If you had to pick between:
1) Short pre travel, heavier pull, or:- Apex Trigger
- Gray Guns Trigger
2) Longer pre travel, lighter trigger pull- Legion Trigger
Which one would you pick and why?Any other things to consider?
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Ordered my Limited in May 2020, got it Jan 2021.
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20 hours ago, terrydoc said:
looks like any other kydex with some thumb screws.
Thanks, obviously many will agree!
1 minute ago, LMS said:Yes - the graphics are ugly.
I can agree...
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Fellas, Thanks for all the inputs.
Any thoughts on BOSS Unicorn Holster?
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Looking for thoughts and recommendations on best P320 XSeries/X5 Legion Competition Holster.
- DAA Alpha-X Holster
- Comp-Tac Holster
- Blade-Tech Holster
- Any other?
Currently using the DAA Alpha-X Holster with my Limited. No issues.
Borrowed a Comp-Tac Holster, used it a couple times seems to work pretty good.
Thanks for your help in advance!
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9 minutes ago, cjmill87 said:
Looking at the NORSSO website, I don't believe that those slides are set up to accept plates like the factory Sig slide is. Might be stuck with just the Trijicon/Holosun footprint and optics that fit that footprint (especially because of the forward mounting bosses).
Just talked to NORSSO today...They recommended Springer Precision or a RMR to R3XL plate. I am settling with the idea of a SRO/Holosun 507. I currently have a HS508T on my XCarry w/ RMR cut.
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Leverage some help: So I am set to run SRO/RMR/Holosun on a full size NORSSO Slide with a TXG grip. I do have a R3XL, what plate will I need?
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Current upgrades to Gun #1:
- Grayguns Trigger System upgrade Reduced trigger pull to 2 lbs 11 oz
-- Trigger alone brought it down to ~5.5 lbs
-- Trigger with pins and sleeve brought it down to ~4.5 lbs
-- Full Trigger System ~2.7 lbs
- Grayguns TXG Grip - Pretty grippy and good weight...Gun weight:
-- 38.10 oz no mag
-- 42.50 oz mag 0 rds
-- 50.50 oz mag 21 rds
-- 51.70 oz mag 24 rds- Grayguns Steel Guide Rod - 15# spring (might try 13-14#)
Future upgrades to Gun #2:
- Sig Armorer's Competition Action work
- Tungsten Guide Rod - 14# spring
- Grayguns TXG Grip
- NORSSO Slide
Mag extension: Debating TTI vs Henning
Barrell: BarSto is a good barrel, from my research and some comments on the thread not a noticeable difference
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GMR-15 16" Barrel, 18" w/ brake.
No Thermal Disipator - extra weight, not needed
Roller trigger or Flat Trigger - like the feel, personal preference.
SCS - Short Stroke
3T/2S - PF 140-155 pretty flat
- 147 gr @ 922 fps NC Shooters
- 115 gr @ 1350 fps Fiocchi
Note: Waiting on another Tungsten weight to go 4T/1S.
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Opinion JP GMR-15 / 140 PF (124 gr & 147 gr Bullets):
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Preference Techwell or Taylor Freelance Magwell?
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Buffer configuration: 3 Tungsten/2 Steel, 4 Tungsten/1 Steel, or 5 Tungsten?
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5 hours ago, faster said:
is this .40 second to include the reaction time of hearing the buzzer? what about shot to shot time? Id think it would have to be down around .25 second to get the times some guys get on a spread of plates.
I kind of jump from 2 targets to 3 targets. So I apologize, back to the original post.
The original drill, no time limit. It is working fundamentals to the speed and accuracy.
If I was to time the drill for progress...(Note: USPSA size target easier than a 6-8" steel target):
1) 2 steel/USPSA targets / 5 yards / 1 yard apart
- Target speed: 1.5-1.9 sec / transition ~0
- 1.54 sec Draw/first shot 1.0 / 2-4 shot .18
- 1.70 sec Draw/first shot 1.1 / 2-4 shot .20
- 1.86 sec Draw/first shot 1.2 / 2-4 shot .22
2) 2 steel/USPSA targets / 15 yards / 3 yards apart
- Target speed: 1.7-2.1 sec / transition ~.20
- 1.72 sec Draw/first shot 1.0 / 2-4 shot .18 / transition .18
- 1.90 sec Draw/first shot 1.1 / 2-4 shot .20 / transition .18
- 2.08 sec Draw/first shot 1.2 / 2-4 shot .22 / transition .22
*Note: As you practice the transition time will be less. You can increase the distance apart or the distance to the target as you feel more comfortable.
**Note: PCC times should be faster.
My 2 cents!
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On 8/23/2020 at 7:21 PM, faster said:
and what would you consider to be a really fast time to hitting another bullet impact area at 15 yds, 5 yds apart?
Faster
- 5 yards and targets semi close your splits should be almost the same across
-- 3 targets 2-3' apart at 5 yards 0.18-0.19 sec per trigger pull
- 15 yards and targets farther your splits should be the same , but transitions would be slower
-- 3 targets 6-9' apart at 15 yards 0.35-0.40 sec from target to first shot
Bottom line: Do it at your pace as you get comfortable, your speed will increase as well as your accuracy.
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Holosun - HS510C Red Dot
Configuration: Circle & Dot
- Use circle as reference to dot, if circle covers or inside target...I am hitting Alphas!
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SVI Limited 5" barrel
VV N320: 4.5-4.7 gr
Jacketed Zero Bullets: 200 gr (Avg weight 199.86 gr)
OAL: 1.190-1.195"
Velocity: 854.29
PF: 170.739
Also very accurate with Cheely 2011 and Atlas Gunworks Nemesis.
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Got a Mark 7 Revolution and couldn't be happier, but a few things I have noticed:
- Shell plate wouldn't move...primer plug out of synch. Readjusted primer plug, everything in synch again. Issued solved.
- Bulletfeeder upside bullets, added a few more spacers...issue solved.
- Intermittent motor light...The white 6 Pin connector sparks when it moves. I noticed the 6 Pin connector has been loose.
-- M7 recommendation: It seems like you are arching at the 6 pin connector and this will cause electronics communication problems that will cause varied OAL’s, primer seating depths and bullet seat depths. We can usually resolve this with a cable replacement. Its usually just the 6 pin cable and the DC power cable that need replaced inside the console unit (black plastic box you plug everything into). Issue fixed.
- Spilling powder when end of cycle at 2500/3000/3500 rpm... recommendations from M7, haven't applied it yet.
-- See attached video to adjust the bumper support, the bracket should just barely kiss the wheel as it comes around: https://www.dropbox.com/s/yuw9jnvluoshg2v/bumpersupport.MOV?dl=0
-- Then try the index of 1-5 and top dwell between 1-5.
Hope this helps...
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On 6/2/2020 at 9:03 AM, mayassa said:
Starline is the place to go. What are you using for powder and bullets?
3N38
Federal Primer
Blue / Montana Gold / Zero Bullets (124-125 gr)
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Where are the best places to buy 38 Super Comp brass new or once fired?
Any leads are appreciated. Thanks!
Mark 7: Caliber Conversion Setting Up (40 Cal to 38 SC)
in non-Dillon Reloading Equipment
Posted · Edited by cperazza
So I decided to get a new tool head IOT reload 38SC. I was currently reloading for 40 Cal. Shutout to Misty and Randy for helping me through the process.
Items I bought:
- Caliber Conversion Kit Mark 7
- Powder Sense Mark 7
- Powder measure Mark 7
- Reloading Dies (Lee to start and will end with Redding dies)
- Universal Decapping Die Lyman
- Holding Die Mighty Armory
- Already had Bullet Feeder Conversion Plate 9/38
- Case feeder compatible with 38 SC cases
Standard disassembly for the toolhead as if cleaning. Will have to loosen up the plate spring holders. Only extra step was to open the assembly holding the case feeder.
Note: Case feeder I got was a little larger than the 40 Cal one (1.7560" vs 1.7515"), and it was getting stuck. Filed the ends slightly to fit properly. If not fit properly, the case feed ramp will get stuck every time during cycling.
Since the press is disassembled, clean the parts appropriately to ensure no issues. I used Tacky Red #2 Grease.
Prior to assembling the toolhead, I set the stations...
- Station setup:
0) Case Feed Ramp
1) Universal Decapping Die
2) Sizing Die (no decapping pin) swage happens here
3) Holding Die (Primer station) set depth 0.002-0.005"
4) Expanding Die
5) Powder Measure Die setup - test it at the RPM you plan to run
6) Powder Sense
7) Bullet Drop
9) Crimp Die ~0.001-0.003"
Assemble everything in reverse order. Make sure the nut holding the plate is tight enough.
Lower the toolhead to set the different dies. I went one station at a time. Make sure the decapping pin protrude far enough, powder measure can be tricky (make sure you run it a few times to confirm powder weight), adjust the Powder Sense, adjust bullet seating, and finally adjust crimp (I use .001").
After adjusting and setting up, calibrate. Run a case through all the stations to ensure everything is setup as desired.
Informative on some things I learned through the process...
- Take you time the first time you set a new toolhead...will save you time in the long run by not having missed steps.
- Cost $800 to $1,300 depending on the caliber converting to. A new press will cost $1,000 to $2,000 and another $2,000 for automation, extra $1,000-$1,500 in sensors, also will need bullet and case feeder additional $1,000. After this I expect my time swapping toolheads to be 15-25 mins.
- Don't do before your next match, give yourself enough time to work the kinks out and test fire the ammo.
Link to pictures: https://photos.app.goo.gl/PVpHgmk825BEnd8v8
Hope this helps...Good luck!