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Ner

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Posts posted by Ner

  1. 14 minutes ago, XTCshooter said:

    Thanks

    What would the difference be if you got there with say a 1" weighted spacer in front of the buffer vs a 1" spacer behind the spring? 

    I think that making buffer overall weight heavier is a wrong direction. I have tried SSS (super shortstroke) + heavy buffers but was not pleased coz i got a trigger malfunctions. MB at some point you will find the sweetest combo but it will take so much time and ammo that you will at some point stop seeing any differences in all your many combos variations. Dunno, test it. But keep in mind that overall system weight better not to exceed ~21oz 

     

    *i have a heavy weight stuck at the back of my buffer tube lol. Can't get it out coz it's now melded to it. Be more carefull than me 

  2. 2 hours ago, XTCshooter said:

    So am I correct in assuming a shorter short stroke, say just enough to reset trigger would be most desireable for faster shooting? I am curious if a super short stroke with a little heavier overall buffer weight would be better than the lighter weight and short stroke?  Would it be better to have a longer buffer weight instead of rear "quarter" spacers, travel is the same, one adds weight to the system, the other compresses the recoil spring more.

    I'm about to start experimenting and just thinking out loud. Thanks!

    The shortest stroke that work 100% without malfunctions will give you fastest and flattest result 

  3. On 10/31/2022 at 12:44 AM, mellino19 said:

     

    For starters, I tried some Strike Industries flatwire 308 springs in my PCC and they're alright, not too loud, perform about the same as the Sprinco Orange. I shot a great match with them last weekend but I honestly was probably just finally having a good day. Today I swapped the flat wires back out the Sprinco Orange and liked the Sprinco more. It's also easier to pay attention to the feel of something in a controlled environment at the range vs running a stage on the clock.

     

    So I got around to trying out the new Taccom DBRS in my 10.5" Brekke and truth be told it's more frustrating that anything for me right now. It doesn't work with JP bolts, you cannot rack the bolt back at all, the retainer doesn't fit inside the bolt. Fortunately it first into my ICRW Mohawk 3.0 so I was able to try it with that once the weight was removed of course. If you have TriggerTech trigger, you're going to have a hell of time getting the DBRS out of the buffer tube, I actually had to pull the trigger pins to let it drop an extra millimeter or 2 for the buffer to clear the hammer and remove it - if you plan on trying this system ABSOLUTELY remove your buffer detent. Even with a small pick pushing the detent down it's a PITA to move from the buffer tube. I'm also using a JP A5 spacer in my A5 tube to make the DBRS fit properly - a must if you plan on trying this in an A5 tube.

     

    I first tried the buffer as it was right out of the package from Taccom and it hits hard and has surprising recoil in my build. With my barrel and load setup it hit a lot harder than I expected and dot movement was all over the place. I emailed Taccom and they told me to remove 2 of the spacers and maybe 1 magnet as a starting point. I didn't have a wrench with me to hold the main shaft to loosen the retaining bolt so I had do it at home and wait a week or so to get to the range again.

     

    I tried it again today but I'm still not blown away by it. I brought the right tools today and ended up cutting off 10 coils and removing another magnet but I forgot the spacers at home so I couldn't try it with the preload spacers. With 10 coils removed, 2 magnets, and no spacers, the dot movement was better and my shot placement seemed good but the buffer still hits hard - and yes I've seen the argument "you're a grown man shooting a rifle, deal with the recoil impulse". I'm trying to remind myself that I'm coming from a Kynshot 5020SS so the response from the a hydraulic buffer vs a multiple spring buffer is going to be completely different and clearly has significantly different dampening qualities.

     

    Essentially I need to carve out more time (and ammo) to continue tuning the system because it's so different from anything else I've ran. Given the dozens of possible setups for the DBRS, there's no real one and done recommendation to start at. You really just need to keep removing things until you get what you're after, it's a lot of a trial and error and patience!

     

     

    Lol i did the same and came to same conclusion. Lucky you did not waited until got an out_of_battery_explosions on nationals . We have 4 or so exploded ARs but, after all their owners are grown mans so they cried a bit and have moved back to previous setups (one had to buy a new AR tho). New version could be a mirracle and so on but i would like others to test it this time.

  4. 15 hours ago, Fasthenk65 said:

    And no spacer weight then?

    No weight spacers with 5020ss or you will start jamming and slow2tapping. For 2 years of testing i've tried almost all combinations of 5020ss, stock, 5006, mbx, taccom magnetic delayed, new russian heavy 350 / 450 and more more other buffers with 7 different springs and spacers and sht with and without inner bolt weights +all PFs from 127 to 138..TLDR They all feel ok. Some better some way s#!tter(some even exploded my rifle lol). The best for me was 5020ss + A5 + Polished Carbine Spring + max spacers + 134PF with bcg weight or 130pf without it . Every humanbeing is a different walking machine so you should try it yourself. As for now i got a complitely different new pcc (V-AR) with all shenanigans i was needed inside (shortest reset possible with the lenght of an ammo cartridge/ delayed system/ tuned with par springs ideal weight buffer/ a shuttle level inside finishing and coating so i'm done with testing and shooting it as it came from a box as i am tired of testing.. Better investment is a 20-30kg weight loss. In video section i posted my last vid there i shoot with my 5020ss(red rifle) and a new one(black) i'm happy with both. the black shoot faster and flatter tho..Red is looking better :(

  5. 11 hours ago, cferree said:

    I put an Eclipse in a GMR-15.  I started having reset issues, 1 per 10 to 1 per 20.  That family of Hyperfire triggers take significantly more effort to cock than traditional AR type triggers.  I had to switch from 3 tungsten & 2 SS weights and a medium spring to 3 SS & 2 tungsten with a light spring to get the trigger to consistently reset.  I heard a "click" when I pulled the trigger, but no bang.  I'm guessing it was the sear releasing even though the trigger wasn't cocked.  All my issues went away after I changed the buffer/spring setup. 

     

    I'm struggling with it !!! My eclipse is doing that every 50 or so rounds..I hear click but get no bang. Yesterday tried a softer spring but nothing changed

    Right now i have a heavy ~350gr buffer with a light spring. So, you think i should try to lower the weight of the buffer?

  6. my eclipse is now often makes a failure to bang. I press a trigger and i hear that the hammer is smashing but the bang is not coming so i have to pull the charging handle again. Yes, i have checked the ammo - no evidence of firingpin being touched the primer. Dunno what it is..not fully closed bolt or what..?

  7. 12 hours ago, Fasthenk65 said:

    so first upload to YouTube?

    I sound like a fool I know but this is new to me

    If you can you could do some pre product tuning with programs like PremierePro or you just skip it and download to youtube and post a link here

  8. 1 hour ago, George16 said:

    You can buy it from MidwayUSA, brownells etc.

     

    Lyman 9mm M die

     

    https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1011246697?pid=600695

     

    Or you can also place a WTB ad in the classifieds for a 1050/1100 9mm hold down die. Majority of 1050/1100 owners (including me) get rid of them from their presses and use different hold down die from another manufacturer (I had been using FW Arms hold down die since it holds the bottom of case instead of the case mouth).

    Thank you!

     

    2 hours ago, Sarge said:

    The hopper Assy needs to be installed or else the funnel will just push out the top of the powder die

    And you too :)

  9. Sup guys

     

    Question. Dillon 750. 9mm

    I want to move sizing/depriming (1 die) and only belling (2 die) to a spare toolhead

     

    What do i need to make this belling works.. Is it only Powder die + powder funnel or do i need a whole powder machine for this? 

     

    Or mb there are some other tricks how to make belling without shenanigans

  10. Guys, help

     

    Any thoughts on using prism x1 optic in fast pcc matches?

     

    I came to the problem when 1 moa red dot become unclear for my old eyes and a lot of stages were dusted becouse of situation when i put a dot right on the plate but can't hit it .

    So i saw a somewhat new Swampfox Blade 1x25 Prism and i was like huh, could it be the solution?

    i have zero experience in shooting PCC with lpvo or prismx1 

    so i need some information

    • i know there's eyebox problem with lpvo and prism..but how hard it's in real fast pcc matches where you want to squeeze 15HF or so..?

     

  11. On 9/10/2021 at 6:06 PM, Fasthenk65 said:

    Maybe the barrel of a JP15 is very slow? I need 4,4 to come close to 130... (Lovex D032 which is the same as cleanshot)

    with 4.1 D032 * 115gn i got ~132-135

    4.45 D032 gave me about 138-140

    at what Coal u load? 

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