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Prange

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Posts posted by Prange

  1. On 11/6/2019 at 1:39 PM, GHUTCH said:

    I constantly see threads that speak of accurate groups of 1 - 3 inches at 10 yards.  (people can throw rocks that accurately) if a gun won't hold at least a 5"  group at 50 yds from a rest then it's not worth shooting.  Get a ransom rest.  Work with bullet type, seating depth and powder as they are different for each gun and each  barrel.  A great ammo in one gun it not always a great ammo in another gun.  

    Wise man. 

     

    If you can't get ahold of a RR, you could try sandbags at 25 yards. Take your time and try to make sure the gun is in the same spot for every shot. It's not perfect, but sometimes you have to go with what you've got.

     

    You may want to start with a known load as a baseline, ( Atlanta Arms match ammo) for example. 

     

    Tons of knowledge here, just have to ask. 

  2. On 10/3/2019 at 5:08 PM, Pinkowitz said:

    I've got the standard serrated adj. rear and FO front sights. They work great except when shooting at dark targets - I struggle to get the front post dead center of my sight picture when I can't see any light through the side gaps.

     

    Considering an SVI FO rear - https://infinity.americommerce.com/p/127-Infinity-Illuminated-Competition-Rear-Sight.aspx It seems like would make it easier to line up the sights on a black target.

     

    What are the gotchas I'm not thinking of? There's gotta be a reason almost no one uses these sights. This is primarily for 3-gun and limited.

    If the front sight is .125, you could try opening the rear sight notch to .140-150 and leave the rear sight black.

     

    Eyes can only focus on one object at a time. The "3-dot" sights are just BS marketing. With multiple "dots", the eyes shift focus from dot to dot, front to rear, and you aren't really focusing on anything.

     

    Also, a dedicated pair of prescription shooting glasses would certainly help. 

     

    Don Nygord and Dr.Norman Wong wrote some great articles on vision for the shooting sports.

  3. I would skip the Chinese "precision" tools. CDI is Snap-On's consumer-available line. Not cheap, but you get what you pay for when it comes to tools.

     

    I got mine a few years ago for $150.00. Worth every penny. And if you drop it, you can get it re-calibrated if necessary.

  4. On 5/7/2019 at 7:43 AM, rowdyb said:

    The round trigger guard and safety kill it for me. I say Shadow 2. Or if you're set on a $2,000 gun, the Shadow 2 Orange.

     

    I don't mind the trigger guard. I'm assuming I can change out the safety.

     

    The forged frame/slide appeal to me. I just want the most accurate piece. The price is not a deal-breaker.

  5. On 5/7/2019 at 7:41 AM, George16 said:

    Buy your wife what she wants first then buy both. If she complains, tell her the item you bought for her is more expensive than what you bought.

     

    Works all the time lol 😂 

     

    I'll get the short end on that. She wants a Jaguar F-Type convertible. 

  6. Are you guys trying to get me divorced?

     

    I was about to pull the trigger on a Shadow 2, then the A01 LD comes out.

     

    Now my head hurts trying to decide.

  7. 1 hour ago, 10mmdave said:

    Good luck, probably cheaper to have the work done to a 6.5" barrel.

     

    What kind of prices were you getting and for how extensive of a job ?

    I ask since Scott of SDM used to do an almost factory looking job compared to my home version of cut it off an inch or so with a hacksaw

    and square it up a bit and crown the end with my cylinder chamfer tool 😆

     

     About $350.00-$400.00.   

     

    Weigand doesn't make their interchangeable front sight system anymore.

     

    SDM no longer accepts gunsmithing work.

     

    Any suggestions would be welcomed.

  8. 2 hours ago, Meatpukk said:

    so did you yanks get this before us europeans? 😮

    a detailed comparison/ransom rest would be interesting.

     

    I was a week away from getting an Accu Shadow 2.

     

    I would also love a comparison/ransom test. 

  9. 3 hours ago, Gomar83 said:

    What exactly are the NRA trigger weights, and their intended reason for it?

    They are actual steel weights like the ones used on measuring scales.

     

    They're used to measure the amount of force it takes to get the hammer to drop.

     

    For example,my .45's will pick up 3.5 lbs. but not 4 lbs.

     

    Weights.jpg.5f9af801e5aeed9c7637f5db07022bd0.jpg

     

     

  10. 1 hour ago, Carmoney said:

    A long time ago, I owned a 5" 610.  That is, by the way, a much better barrel length than the 4" (short radius too short) or 6.5" (muzzle too heavy).  I had no real use for it, and it was worth quite a bit of money, so it went down the road.  Too bad S&W doesn't bring back the 610 in that barrel length.  

     

    I was planning on getting a 6.5" and having it cut to 5".

     

     

     

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