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Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!

Prange

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Posts posted by Prange

  1. 1 hour ago, Stony Lane said:

    Locking block falling out is normal, a few do, most don't, but no problem.

    Beretta 92s feed ammo fairly straight... length shouldn't be a problem.

     

    Might try factory ammo until gun is "broken in", or reduced power recoil spring with your ammo.

     

    Agreed. Try it with a few different brands and bullet weights. Then go from there.

  2. I picked up a NIB LTT 92X Performance. It's not-optic ready. Does it have the standard Brigadier sight cuts? 

     

    I'll be looking for replacement sights. As an old B-E shooter , I prefer a black front/adjustable rear combo. 

     

    Also a dove-tail scope mount so I can avoid setting the slide milled. I don't want to go down that rabbit hole at this time.

     

    Thanks.

     

  3. 7 hours ago, matto6 said:

    I've come to the conclusion that it might actually be multiple factors.

     

    1.  DA:  yeah, the Beretta is really long.     No getting around it

    2. SA:  The SA on my CZ Shadow Custom has just a slight bit more of a rolling break to its feel than the LTT.  The Shadow moves a bit and then breaks, whereas the LTT is solid until you put enough force, then it breaks (more glass-rod-ish).   I think the LTT trigger makes it easier for the flinchies to know when to kick in, as the tension is building

    3.  The LTT trigger breaks back further, closer to your other fingers.   I think I am better at pulling a trigger straight when my finger is forward more.   Once it's back that far (back meaning closer to the rest of the fingers on my hand) I have a harder time moving one finger but not the others

    I suspect all of these could be overcome with enough training.   

    The so-called "crisp" or "breaks like a glass rod" triggers are the most difficult to shoot well.  They more or less work like an on-off switch, making it harder to keep the trigger moving consistently.

  4. 14 hours ago, Toolguy said:

    The computer figures out how much bigger to make the mold so that the end product is exactly net size and shape when finished in most cases. Sometimes there is finish machining required, depending on the geometry of the part and what it is used for. The S&W parts don't require any 2nd operations.

     

    And those S&W MIM parts are hard. I had to buy ceramic stones for them. 

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