ezra650

I think I'll just get 2 different colors of whiskers (25 per pack). I'll spray paint the other 6 stages each a different color. I already have plenty of spray paint. So it will only be $13 for the whiskers and whatever the spikes cost.

That is what they are called! I've seen them at matches before, but had no idea what they were marketed as. Now I'm curious how all 8 stages worth of markers will fit in one area haha. The whiskers are still $5 per color, but they are much better than tape. Wish I could find a multi color pack... Thanks for the info!

I finally got my lazy butt out to measure and setup a steel challenge stage and I started thinking... I'd really like to measure out all 8 stages over time and place permanent markers so stage changes would be near effortless. I've only got one bay on my home range. Any ideas on what to use to mark and differentiate all 8 stages on one bay/area? Will it be too crowded for all 8? I could probably cut a few stages, like smoke and hope and pendulum. They are easy enough to setup in a few minutes. I also don't think I'll mark the boxes. I can just measure off a plate each time for the boxes. The only idea I have so far is driving down landscaping nail/spikes and putting different colors of flagging tape. I'd just spray paint the tape I suppose instead of buying 8 colors. At $5-6 per roll I don't want to spend $50 on flagging tape.

Ah glad to hear I'm not the only one who experienced it. I'll remove it from the powder die and get to work on it. Should be a mirror when I'm done with it. Thank you!

What was the turnaround time?

Did anybody have trouble mailing their CMORE into the repair address listed on the CMORE website? I just sent my slide ride off last week to fix the board/cracked body. It was supposed to be delivered Friday and the tracking shows this: "Delivery Attempted - No Access to Delivery Location" and that was at 9:30AM so it isn't like the drive ran out of time to deliver it?? I just hope it isn't lost. Thankfully I did get $100 insurance, but I'd rather not go through the process of filing a clam with USPS. That's the address I used... C-MORE Systems Service Dept 680-D Industrial Road Warrenton, VA 20186 EDIT: I'm an idiot. CMORE is closed on Fridays and I missed that on their web page. CMORE just sent me an email, great customer service already! The damage to mine is the dot brightness is about half of what it should be and the body is also cracked around the wind age adjustment screw. Can't wait to get it back!

That's a good mindset to take. It was a good deal even without the rebate. However, I called today to check the status and the check is already in processing and on it's way. Wooo.... I worked HARD for that $27

Probably so. I realize now that the MBF is a case expander, not a case belling die. It is on every case and its the full circumference of the case. Something is wrong with the adjustment. I'm going to back it off and go from there.

Also would like to add that I don't believe more flair is the answer. I adjusted it to the point where I had inadequate bullet tension and still same results. Unless I need even more flair and to tighten my crimp die...

I recently setup a 2nd 9mm tool head to load for my open gun. I use the dillon powder funnel for my other 9mm toolhead, but I had the Mr. Bulletfeeder one so I decided to give it a shot before buying another dillon funnel. Upon setting it up I am finding that the funnel is abrading the mouth of my brass and leaving brass "hairs" all over my press. This concerns me for 2 reasons. 1: It makes a mess on my reloading press/area 2: It is removing brass and could increase chances of case failure, especially loading major. I've smoothed it with some 600 grit sandpaper and wiped it clean to no avail. It simply seems like the funnel is out of spec. Has anyone else ever experienced this? See pic of case with "hairs" around case mouth. It is leaving a shiny ring all the way around the inside of the case mouth. I'm using all dillon dies. Brass is mixed headstamp.

Oh I had to trim the grip considerably just so it would allow free slide movement. It looks like it will hit the frame if it goes any lower though. Not the thumb rest, but the bottom of the safety where it "swoops". Anyway my CMORE needs work so while that's gone I'll do some more fitting with it. I'll put up pics in the gallery once everything is done and back together.

I need to take some. I got it fitted. Took some more work than a normal safety, but I like it. My only concern is shooting weak hand and bumping it on. Does yours go down far enough for the spring plunger to fit the divet on the safety? I was going to shoot the open gun at the steel match yesterday, but my CMORE is having brightness issues. Plus I still have to tune my mags and practice with the load I decide on. Been running 115grs at 126PF.

I just did the slide of my open gun with it last night. It took a while, but I got it dark like I wanted. The downside... I couldn't get my frame to blue which was very odd to me. Even with heavy sanding beforehand. Soooo.... I sprayed it with some high heat flat black paint . I guess now I'll re scuff the slide, degrease and paint it too. If it holds up I'm gonna run with it. I really wanted to get ceramic based engine enamel, but the hardware store doesn't carry it. Will have to go to automotive store for it.

I've submitted the same rebate form online 2x now and both times rejected for a recent ammo purchase and already called CS about it twice now. The rep has been very polite, but next time I don't believe I will let a rebate from this company persuade to make a purchase. Guess I'll give them a call next week... AGAIN! Such a headache!

I've been debating doing the exact same thing for my RFPO 22/45 mk3. Currently I'm running a CMORE slideride on the allchin mount. Allchin makes the dovetail mount that will fit several brands. Only reason is to lighten the gun. It's already a LITE model. My concern is the brightness of the 6moa. I love the 8 moa dot on the CMORE. I've looked at a venom 2x, both were 6moa. Once at a match and once in the gun store. At the match it looked like a pin prick and I was disgusted with how small it was on max brightness and not a clear circle. At the gun store the 6 moa looked amazing. Clear, large, circular dot. Maybe the one I viewed outside had a weak battery or the difference outside is just that big?? I wasn't even standing in direct sunlight. So how have you liked it so far?

You can't go wrong with EGW, ever. And if there is somehow an issue they will make it right from what others say. I missed the part where this is your first 1911... It may be like an AR-15 when it comes to parts availability, but don't expect "drop in" parts. Prepare for EVERYTHING to need proper fitting by filing/sanding. many 1911 parts come oversized for proper fitting A set of needle files and sandpaper in various grit will be needed. You will be fortunate and encounter some parts that need little or no fitting, but not most. Nothing is very complicated, it just takes time and patience to fit properly. The dawson front sight will most definitely be oversized. You will have to file the angle on the dovetail (of the SIGHT, not the slide lol) on both sides until the sight will slide halfway in the dovetail on it's own. You should be able to tap it the rest of the way with a rubber/nylon mallet and put a drop of blue 242 or red 271 loctite on. I had to do the same on mine. DO NOT just beat it in... I know from experience, not me, but previous owner of my loaded did and it deformed the slide slightly and also bent the sight blade . Which led to me replacing it. You'll want to polish the sear spring where it contacts the disco and sear. Sandpaper and a cotton dremel wheel will work fine. Beyond that if you have issues with the sear/hammer and the sear spring is adjusted correctly. Take it to a smith or someone who understands 1911 trigger jobs that you trust. If you put a new trigger bow in. When installing in the empty/stripped frame you should be able to point the frame up and it will fall out the back freely. If it doesn't it is binding on the frame. Sand/polish the outside of the trigger bow. You'll want to do this anyway where the disco contacts the trigger bow at a minimum. Also check the the top and bottom of the trigger shoe and sand accordingly if needed. Not likely but if the trigger bow is not square that will cause issues. While the bow is out of the gun it's also a good time to slide it over your magazines to ensure none of the mags are contacting the bow and causing additional pressure on the trigger. That's good you have no ILS. The techwells are popular, but I've never fitted them. Due to the cost and using proprietary grips I stuck with the dawson setup. Good luck.

The EGW safety will be here Saturday! Excited to fit and see how I like it, will post pics.

Are those splotches in the first pic just oil smudges?

I think one of the main issues is not always lead, but the coating coming off as it travels through the comp. The comp acts like a blast chamber and throws off pieces of the coating. There are a lot of variables going on. Which gunpowder you use, how hot of ammo, which brand coating etc. Some deal with it, others don't. You can get 9mm coated 115s for $2.80 per lb shipped so... I'm actually about to order some 115gr Hi-tek bullets next month for my iron sight 1911. My 115s for steel are only going 1100FPS so I might put 200 of the Hi-tek through the gun and see how they do. I'll definitely be sticking to JHP for major though. Not worth the headache.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X-CDOJF-TmY&list=FLtNUCyrI_GPasNUlsudnZIg&index=5&t=2s I borrowed the idea from this youtube video. However, I made up a bullet point sheet at home so I don't have to rewatch the video everytime lol.

I need to post the instructions I made for it. In short here is the method. Strip/Prep/Degrease parts. Heat with propane torch until all moisture is out of piece. Apply Mark Lee Express brown #2 with cotton balls to hot steel. I then apply oxpho blue creme with cotton ball until desired darkness is achieved and you got to coat it in oil when all said and done. Here were my results on a shotgun I did and it was my first time doing it. Complete 100% re blue job. I can't speak to the durability with heavy use because this gun belongs to my cousin who shoots it about once a year and it lives in the case.

That was your factory disco... yuck. I told him it made you 5% faster.... I left out the part about 10% reduction in accuracy

Yeah... I need a Hundo in 9mm. But then you have to remember all the headstamps!! Also the brass I'm buying will cull crimped primer pockets as well. Unfortunately I'm still a peasant and do not have a 1050 lol At $115 per 5k shipped I'm fine with buying it. Dump in casefeeder and reload. Of course I will recycle it as well.

This is why I plan to buy processed and head stamp sorted brass when I start loading 9major. It's very easy to miss unless you pick up each case and look inside of it.

You would be surprised how much weight grips can add. I have seen a 1.5-2oz difference before.