Falloutboy89
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Posts posted by Falloutboy89
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On 6/9/2019 at 5:01 AM, DubfromGA said:
Since I'm new to progressive presses, I went ahead and added the Dillon 650 DVD to the orders. I've already watched most of it and think it was $20 well spent. Really thorough and strait forward.
I ordered that DVD also but found WTF SoCal had a 6 or 7 part series on YouTube that I liked even more. I highly recommend you check it out. I was pretty intimidated at first and his series along with the DVD really helped me. Best of luck!
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Thanks for the heads up. I realized it already.
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Damn - I thought it was like 25 posts. I guess I need to read the rules too.
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Don't forget you can send it into Dillon if you have issues with it. It's not free anymore for them to fix it but its well worth it if you're having any issues.
Welcome from KY!
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Welcome from KY!
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Welcome from KY!
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Welcome from KY!
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Welcome from KY!
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Welcome from KY!
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Welcome from KY!
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On 6/10/2019 at 2:35 PM, MemphisMechanic said:
There’s no actual advantage to shooting lightweight gamer ammo. We just all want to think there is because we paid so much for our Dillons.
I'm not willing to accept this just yet... hah. Appreciate the honesty though.
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On 6/10/2019 at 12:45 PM, TrackCage said:
but if you're looking to cut to the chase, I think 147s in my Glock 34 are better than 124s... to me anyway.
Thank you. I will get a sample pack of 147s and give it a try. Appreciate it!
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There was one guy making them on Etsy but his shop appears to be shut down due to some health-related issues. I heard the Dillon covers don't cover everything and its really tight if you have some of the accessories. Would I be better off buying the 1050 cover even though I don't own a bullet feeder?
Anyone have a good contact? I guess I could use an old bedsheet. Mine is in my basement where I have a woodworking shop so I'd like to keep as much of the dust off if possible.
My current situation is awkward at best... lol.
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Appreciate everyone's techniques... I'll probably move forward with a combination of what others have done...
I'm running every round through a case gauge still. Don't have a Hundo... yet.
So it sounds like I should anticipate loose primers? Is this common? Is it because of the range brass has been used a lot or is common with the progressive presses?
Thanks again.
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On 2/12/2019 at 11:11 AM, oddjob said:
Try Wolff Springs.
What did you figure out?
I'm using Wolff Springs with a Jager Gen 5 Captured Hardened Steel Guide Rod (HEAVY .270). Wolff has 10lbs. through 24lbs. available.
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What is common practice for storing, transporting your finished rounds? Does everyone really use those 100 count ammo boxes? I would, I guess if I was shooting match level rifle loads. But, I'm only 500 rounds into reloading and want to crank out about 2k soon. If it was store bought bulk I would just dump it into ammo cans. Any reason why I wouldn't want to do that with my reloads?
NOTE: I will do short runs of JHP or other differences that I will probably use those ammo boxes for.
Thanks again.
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35 minutes ago, MemphisMechanic said:
For your wife, load a 115gr bullet on top of 3.2gr of titegroup - what you normally load beneath a 147. It’s crazy soft, but the gun likely won’t cycle reliably without a lighter recoil spring.
Sweet! I already have lighter springs. I guess I should've mentioned that. Appreciate this and the other info!
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On 5/3/2019 at 3:41 PM, Poconolg said:
I have used a 1 tablespoon of Armor All wash and wax with 1/2 teaspoon of Lemishine and have no problems. Everything Dillion told me about wet tumbling was off base.
Thanks for the recipe. Do you think this amount would work on the Frankford Arsenal 7L Rotary Tumbler? Do you use SS pins with it still?
I have been using SS Pins, Dawn and Lemishine for my first few batches. I will say it's friggin' nuts how clean the wet tumbler can get the brass. I was cleaning cases with an UltraSonic cleaner for the last year or so as I prepped to reload and the Wet Tumbler blows it away. Its ridiculous... I threw my hands up in the air in victory first batch I ran through... lol.
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I dialed it up to 3.9Gr last night. Tested two strings of 10 powder drops and was within 0.01 on each string.
I ran 250 through my 650 verifying the powder drop weight about every 50 pulls. It was dead nuts on.
I got 130 PF with a 10 round test I did last week with same OAL and 3.9Gr so I assume I'm good to go. I will pull 10 random rounds and chrono them first to verify/document.
I am curious about how this will change since I have a new batch of bullets arriving this week. I ordered 2k of RMR 124Gr FMJ RN... For my first 500 rounds I have been using Hornady 124Gr FMJ RN. I also used new brass for my first 250. It seemed safer to me than starting with range brass since I'm so new at this.
I have multiple goals for reloading. First is to get the lightest shooting, most accurate load for my G34 to shoot CO in USPSA. Secondly it is to get some general loads for my other handguns and PCCs to shoot well. And thirdly (although don't tell her) is to get some light shooting loads for my wife to shoot so she can move on from her 22's. She loves to shoot but is dealing with some slight carpal tunnel issues that make her not want to shoot anything else.
Thank you all for sharing your techniques, processes, thoughts and data. I really appreciate it.
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17 hours ago, ChemistShooter said:
I have seen EXACTLY that. Powder flakes sticking to the brass. Also powder gradually accumulating ALL over the shell plate.
I thought about it. The only thing I could come up with was case lube building up on the powder funnel. I had never cleaned that before.
I took the powder funnel out, cleaned the powder funnel and the die inside and out with a paper towel soaked in acetone.
Paper towel came out BLACK the first pass.
Worked on it until everything was clean, put it all back together.
And poof, problem solved. Got the tightest standard deviation I've ever gotten, and no more powder all over the shell plate.
That sounds like a GREAT idea. I'm going to give it a try in the next day or two. Thanks for sharing.
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Ok. So I did four sets of ten and here are my results:
- 1st Set: 37.0 grains
- 2nd Set: 38.3 grains
- 3rd Set: 38.0 grains
- 4th Set: 38.4 grains
I tried to pull as consistent as possible. The first set might have been skewed since I was just getting going. My target is/was 3.8 grains.
In your opinion should I be content with this or should I dig deeper?
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26 minutes ago, GrumpyOne said:
Weighing 10 charges at once, if you had set your charge at say 3.5 grains...if you weigh the 10 and it comes up to 35.9 grains total, you know you are off by about .1 grain per charge. Adjust the charge down, re-throw 10 charges, etc. Since your scale most likely only does 0.1 increments, this lets you know about how much you are off on the throw in 0.01 increments.
This is great. Thanks for the info. I'm heading in to try this shortly.
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1 minute ago, anonymouscuban said:
Not sure if this is how you're doing it. Doesn't sound like it. Sounds like you're dumping the powder onto the scale and measuring it.
Correct. I have not been using the case. I have been dumping the powder into a pan which I had zeroed on the scale.
Thanks for the reply. I'll try this moving forward.
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On 6/6/2019 at 11:40 PM, ChemistShooter said:
I would recommend you record ten-sample averages and standard deviations for powder weight and COL so you will know what your machine did when it was brand-new. So when it starts screwing up, you will be able to detect it.
I struggle to get exact powder measurements too. I'm currently using Titegroup and some of the flakes seem to stick in the brass even after I try to tap them out.
Any suggestions on getting a clean read?
I'm considering weighing the brass with primer before and after I add powder and weighing it all together and just deducting the empty weight.
Does wet tumbling cause cases to stick on powder funnel of 650
in Dillon Precision Reloading Equipment
Posted
I’ve done a few loads where I added the wash/wax to dawn and lemishine. I also cleaned my powder drop with isopropyl alcohol. No problems on the last 500 rounds since then.