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Falloutboy89

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Posts posted by Falloutboy89

  1. On 1/17/2023 at 5:10 PM, HesedTech said:

    Dillon has a great instruction set about setting rifle sizing dies with the case gauge.

    Finally got a chance to watch the video. Thanks. I load on a 650 and have found their videos to be very helpful. Appreciate all the help. It's all making sense now. Just needed to spend a little time getting up to speed. I feel comfortable moving forward now.

  2. 7 minutes ago, HesedTech said:

    1. A precise case gauge is a must. It is how you adjust sizing die on press.

    Really appreciate your points above but I'm not sure I follow this. I thought the case gauge was used to verify it would chamber and was within SAAMI specs. Can you explain further?

  3. 1 hour ago, George16 said:

    Since you’ll eventually reloading other rifle calibers, I highly suggest getting the Hornady lock and Load gage comparator and OAL gage. I bought a set since I reload 5.56, .308 and 6.5CM. It helps a lot and takes away the guesswork in reloading rifle rounds imo.

    Appreciate it. I will at some point for sure. Just wasn't sure if it was needed now. So what happens if you use the OAL gauge and find that the overall length is actually larger than what can fit in your magazines? Does it become irrelevant at that point?

  4. I've done pistol and shotshell reloading for years but am new to the rifle side and I have a few questions. I've am starting with 300 BLK (initially subsonic). which I shoot with a semi-automatic rifle. I have loaded 10 rounds to chrono. Shot/chrono'd them. Bigger SD than I would have liked but it's a start. I'll do a ladder test next time and see if I get improvements.

     

    I have cut down/resized .223 brass. I am right around 1.358" on most of the brass. I have a LE Wilson case gauge and full-length sizing die. Right now my process is to re-size the brass. Trim to 1.358". Chamfer/deburr. Load.

     

    My question is for where I am and what I am doing (300 BLK subsonic) do you think I need to get a comparator and an OAL length gauge? Are those standard tools for rifle? Must haves?

     

    I'm not looking for precision right now. Just plinking stuff but I still want to be safe obviously.

     

    Eventually I'd like to load other rifle rounds such as .223, .308, .30-06, etc.

  5. On 8/4/2022 at 11:44 PM, Sarge said:

    Easiest fix is LEE dies. The pin is tapered and works on everything. If that not an option then sort that brass out of the mix

    Agreed. I just went through a ton of Norma. The LEE die worked well on my 650. I felt them as it was a little tougher to deprime but I never had an issue. That Lee die may be the best change I made to my 650 I ever made.

  6. I have been doing pins with Dawn/Lemishine until last month. I typically process all my brass in February when the weather is s#!tty so this time I bought some Brass Juice to try to make it easier. I ran it for about an hour for each load. Re-used the liquid for three cycles and all the brass is pretty much the same (clean enough IMO). I did notice one weird thing though. All the brass that has been done with Brass Juice is noticeably lighter in color versus the brass that was done with pins/Dawn?Lemishine. It almost looks pale versus a rich brass color if that makes any sense.

     

    Anyone else ever notice this or have any thoughts on why it may have occurred?

     

    I'm about to start loading and can't imagine I will feel or see any difference but it is very noticeable in color...

  7. I read through this thread and saw ppl were swapping out the buffer on the FX9 to make it heavier (5.4oz). I also read that someone added 6 quarters to do the same (is that even real?)... Does that really help it cycle? Does the added weight indeed reduce recoil?

     

    I've had mine a few years at this point - never polished a thing. Have shot a ton of ammo - mostly 147 and 124gr reloads. Probably has 5-7k rounds through it and never had an issue. I'd like to use it for USPSA and Steel Matches more than I currently do so any way to shave time is a plus.

     

    Any help is appreciated.

  8. On 11/4/2019 at 11:11 PM, George16 said:

    Ask for Ryan when you cal Sig CS. He’s very helpful and will take care of your problem. As to the trigger, either send your X5 to Robert Burke (sig armored) for a trigger job or buy and install Gray guns competition trigger kit.

     

    On 11/5/2019 at 10:56 AM, firerain said:

    Call or email sig, they will replace you with a non lci barrel quickly

    This is amazing!! I'm calling today. New owner here too and this was one of my concerns with mounting my Trijicon also.

  9. Just picked up a Legion yesterday. Can't wait to get rolling with it. Thanks for all the info here.

     

    I'll be using Titegroup. Have a variety of RMR bullets to work with: 115 FMJ FN, 124 FMJ RN and 147 FMJ FN. I'll give all three a chance over the winter...

  10. Hi all,

     

    Looking for an inexpensive extended base plate for an SGM Tactical 9mm 33-Round Extended Magazine.

     

    I've never added a base plate to any of the 33-rounders and this thing only costs $17 to begin with (hence the "inexpensive" options needed). 

     

    Backstory: The base plate that came with it was broken. I called them and they sent me two magazines as a replacement which was pretty cool. So, now I have three of them. But only two are operational so I figured I might as well extend it for USPSA.

     

    Let me know if you have any suggestions. I appreciate it.

     

  11. 6 hours ago, Youngeyes said:

    Are they both the same head stamp? Thinner brass will cause an exaggerated wasp look. 

     

    Yes and no. They are all Federal once fired (by me) and Federal range brass I have saved. Since I am new I am sorting by headstamp. But upon further inspection they do not all have the exact same FC headstamp. There seem to be some variety within the FC headstamp for example some are "FC" and some are "•FC•".

  12. 23 minutes ago, 4n2t0 said:

    Why do you feel the crimp needs to be adjusted?

     

    I know there are different reasons why this could be happening but I get a lot of brass shavings in my crimp die and in my loaded cartridge bin. I even started a thread about it.

     

    Rowdyb gave me similar info ("width of 9mm case times two. width of projectile. so say 0.010 for brass times two gets you 0.020 and a projectile of 0.356 and you end up with 0.376". i crimp at 0.378".") which seemed well received.

     

    I'll measure for this later today to confirm. Appreciate the info.

     

     

     

  13. 10 hours ago, noylj said:

    Personally, I would get a standard Lee sizing die.

    Ordered one - appreciate the recommendation.

     

    10 hours ago, noylj said:

    Use your eye or an RCBS Lock-Out die

    Is this considered better than the Dillon Powder Check? I have that already... Seems to work well IMO.

  14. On 7/3/2019 at 9:35 PM, looking4reloadingdeals said:

    All I’d have to do is go back to the range with the weaker spring, I didn’t think about this until I got back from the range and read the replies. I may try that tomorrow when I try my factory ammo

     

    Any updates L4RD?

     

    For the record I have mostly loaded 124gr. FMJ RN for my Glock 17 & 34 and have not had any issues with 3.6gr. through 4.0gr. of Titegroup. OAL is 1.125. My large production runs have been with 3.8r. or 3.9gr. Runs flawlessly.

     

    Looking forward to hearing the  latest info.

  15. Just saw this. Welcome from NKY. Lexington seems like a great gun-friendly area. I pass through often on my way to Lake Cumberland. Always stop at Sportsman's Warehouse to browse the reloading supplies. I might go to Bud's now and again too. Enjoy!

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