andrewt556
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Posts posted by andrewt556
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I had a cmc standard trigger and a taccom extreme bolt and that combo made a indentation where the firing pin was housed and i switched back to milsec till I get a proper trigger.
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Comp's also make chronoing more difficult.
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Glock mags in PCC's tend to work pretty well. I prefer base pads over splices tho.
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CMC released a new 9mm trigger I wonder if anyone has gotten one yet.
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thats super cool Thanks!
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My gun is too light. HAHA sub 5lb no handguard... should add some weight.
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4 hours ago, GunBugBit said:
This is one place where dry fire is very helpful. I recently shot Can You Count and knew in advance I'd be shooting it. I dry-fired the classifier dozens of times before I shot it.
One-two-three-four-five-RELOAD-One-two-three-four-five. That went through my head in dry fire and when shooting it for score.
Downloading wouldn't make a lot of sense because it implies you're going to shoot to empty as a way of preventing extra shots. If you depend on that and do that, you'll burn time on the slide-drop reloads.
The stage name gives a strong clue. COUNT. Just count.
I was just gonna download the reload mag
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1 hour ago, Flatland Shooter said:
There is a little pocket on the lower receiver just to the right of the ejector. Its 1/2" wide x 5/8" long and 5/8z" deep. The only function I can think of its to reduce the weight of the lower. Is this what the brass got caught in?
In the past 18 months I've only had a bullet get stuck in the pocket and it was during ULSC. Several on the forum indicated that if the pocket was a problem, fill it up with JB Weld.
As for the charging handle, can you remove the upper and inspect it? I've never had it happen but it may be possible that in all the banging it tried to slip off its track into the area where the bolt resides. If so, you may be able to tap it upwards into the track with a blade screwdriver and small hammer.
For those times I need to quickly and easily clean out the upper and lower, a can of non-chlorinated break cleaner does the trick. I try to keep a can in my pickup on match days.
Sorry your match turned to trash and the weather did not cooperate. Hope some of this helps.
I know that pocket you are talking about it wasn’t their. It was behind the bolt catch but infront of the hammer in the cocked position. I ended up opening the upper to get that case out. I got the charging handle out I just hit it harder. The roll pin that bolts in the latch walked out and caused it to get stuck. I think that’ may have caused the original malfunction and me pounding it further caused the buffer retainer to break.
I still had a lot of fun. Cause my gun broke I went to the truck got my 2 gun setup and shot the rest of the stages in very good times and one stage win (if I was scored)
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I shot a run and gun today and it was quite wet about ankle deep where I fell and got my gun mucked up (no ejection cover ... fail) I got to stage one and cleaned the bolt and ejection port as best I could. The gun fine till the third target 1 for 1 so like 3rd round and then not sure exactly what happened might have been a double feed. But I drop the mag and pull the charging handle kick atleast one live round out
but here the kicker a whole brass casing got stuck underneath the bolt inbetween the bolt catch and hammer. (for future reference how should I fix this ?). So i probably didn't do this the right way but I was on the clock so I just moartered the gun till I got the bolt back and that little piece of brass out. Heres where my day ended the buffer retaing knob thing broke off after some vigorous striking... and now the charging handle is stuck in the upper. ended up doing a fun run with my ar and glock afterwards tried getting the charging handle out by putting a 2x4 on the latch and hitting it with a hammer.. Its really stuck any other solutions besides a bigger hammer?
so this is probably incoherent didnt sleep after the night part Ill fix it in the morning lol
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Andrew Ta
A112442
PCC C
Production U
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4 hours ago, Flatland Shooter said:
I have several PSA Gen 2 lowers like Andrew's and all came with mil-spec triggers that were heavy and rough.
With some different springs and a little prudent polishing, it may tame down to an acceptable level. At least that's an option for the short term.
I did polish it a little and got it down to 5.5-6.5 still sucks but slightly better.
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6 hours ago, mstamper said:
Don't go cheap on the trigger. Spend the cash and get the 24 3g or the 24c. Both are the same trigger mechanism just a different trigger blade. The 3g is less expensive. Btw. They have renamed the triggers, why I don't know. The 3g is now called the reflex
Sent from my LG-H872 using Tapatalk
Whats wrong with the cheaper triggers besides pull weight? I just want the reliability of the 24c but I cant afford one right now.
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53 minutes ago, Flatland Shooter said:
If it was a USPSA match, they told you wrong. Was this Saturday?
Yup it was area 59 down in Rosenberg.
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8 hours ago, Flatland Shooter said:
I try to practice what I will do in matches. Doing otherwise has bit me on the butt to often to ignore.
I probably need to practice reloading with a big stick more than I do but since it is extremely rare to need a reload in a field course, I do not spend much time on it.
However, classifiers are a different story. Maybe half the classifiers I've shot included mandatory reloads. With the change in HHFs, we may see that number increase. Depends on the MD.
So since I'm practicing reloads for classifiers, I load my magazines accordingly.
Say I'm dry fire practicing for "Can You Count" (very fast Virginia Count stage with 5 rds on a close metric target, mandatory reload and 5 rds on another close metric target), I will practice with only a five or six rds in the magazine. On the actual classifier, my first mag will have 8+ rds in it (nice and light but heavy enough that it falls quickly) and the second mag will have only 4 rds in it. On the signal, I fire (and must count) five shots to the "A" on the first target. Then reload the 4 rd magazine and with one round in the chamber, I have 5 rounds in the gun to unload into the second target. No need to count out 5 shots and for me a bit faster.
Look at the classifiers you expect to shoot over the next couple of months and load your practice magazines like it the real thing.
Just my thoughts FWIW.
So you can download mags for classifers? I shot "can you count" very very slowly counting lol and they told me i couldn't have downloaded them before I shot...
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40 minutes ago, Hammer002 said:
I had this exact scenario happen when I first got my PCC and dropped my Gisselle trigger from another rifle in it. Intermittent fire and no fire for unknown reason. My research led to the fact AR 9 bolts are too different for some makes of triggers. At the time, about a year ago, there were only 3 listed triggers in a thread I read somewhere that were reliable in AR 9s. One was the hiperfire, of which I got and have been trouble free ever since. Info at the time was trigger manufactures were aware of the issue and beginning to design triggers specifically for AR 9s. I can’t remember all the details, but basically the hammer on most aftermarket triggers was not tall enough to properly engage the firing pin. Mine did exactly as in the video and description, until I got the hiperfire. There are other triggers out there, but that’s the one that worked for me and why.
At the smith today he noticed right above the firing pin a groove was formed by the hammer and he suspected that if the hammer missed that groove the hammer lost enough energy that I didnt get a strike. What hiperfire do you have im thinking about getting the under 100$ ones not sure of the model just the low end ones. This guns already cost me to much haha.
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3 hours ago, jkrispies said:
I thought that too until my gunsmith showed me The Ugliness in my similarly new Steel gun’s ..22lr chamber under a magnifier AFTER it was thoroughly cleaned by me. He asked me to rate my cleaning before we looked at it, and I modesty called it a B+, but it ended up being a D-. He then tutored me on his cleaning steps, during which I thought he was being clinically anal but it cured the mechanical problem I was experiencing, which sounds a lot like your issue. FYI my gunsmith is a very accomplished GM, so I suspect that the top shooters out there either clean their guns to the same degree or pay someone else to do it for them.
So I just dropped mine of at the smith didn't mention anything about the dirtyness, but what kind of cleaning are you doing ? I used a wire brush, nylon after. Chemicals were hopps and brake cleaner.
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8 hours ago, jkrispies said:
I read your original post, and at the end I thought: trigger. My thought is being echoed a lot. I believe the CMC lightens pull weight by using reduced power springs. I’d go with a trigger that uses full power springs (like a Gieselle, Elftmann, or Timney) or the Hyperfire 24c which actually has stronger springs. This will give you better ignition, plus if your bolt is juuust far enough in battery to fire the trigger but just far enough out of battery for no bang, a really strong hammer fall might give it that extra oomph it needs to get everything in alignment. Sorry, not an inexpensive suggestion but you might be able to sell your CMC to help defer costs.
A stronger buffer spring wouldn’t hurt.
Another thought might be to really clean the daylights out of your breechface and chamber. And when I say clean it, I mean: get in there like you’re a junior proctologist. Use a magnifier and light to see. Use a dental pick. I put a pipe cleaner on an eletric drill with cleaning chemicals or even car polish if necessary. You might have some carbon building up in just the right spot so that it’s barely holding it out of battery on a loaded round enough that your hammer isn’t getting a direct hit on the firing pin, then hand cycling a few rounds scrapes your chamber loose enough to get it running for a minute, and then repeat. I’ve got a .22lr pistol that acts a bit like your gun if I don’t keep the chamber absolutely spotless, and it has to be cleaned like this after every match. Definitely try this first as it only requires time and can be immediately tested afterwards.
I want to take the hole thing apart and dump in an ultrasonic. but I Cleaned it up and its pretty much a new gun <1k thru it so not much dirtyness.
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12 hours ago, stick said:
I'm running a similar setup with a PSA lower, Taccom bolt, Taccom 3 stage buffer, Taccom ULW barrel. My only difference is I'm running a Hiperfire 24C. I agree with Flatland that your CMC trigger might be the problem.
Did you ever have any problems when using the standard psa buffer?
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I’m looking for reliability I don’t care about recoil impulse or any of that. Just trying to make it work.
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1 hour ago, Flatland Shooter said:
Did you get your 550 set up yet? Are you having problems with factory ammo, reloads or both?
Do you have access to another bolt?
No dude blew me off found someone who would pay way more. Using just factory ammo federal 115 brass, Winchester white box 115, Winchester NATO 124, federal 115 aluminum, brass blazer 115, 147 freedom munitions and even some hot plus p Hornady something. They all causes the same malfunction but especially 115 federal brass.
nope just my taccom bolt, I’ve been looking around to see if any local guys will sell me a bolt or taccom 3 stage buffer.
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So I think its somehow the buffer not returing the bolt to the full forward position but because this has only happend on the clock i've never stopped to see. I dont think its the trigger because I still get the "plink" noise of the hammer falling (same noise as when you dryfire ) If you want to see a video I can post it to youtube and send a link.
EDIT I added a link to a video of the problem I was describing. I will change out to the stock trigger.
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So I ended up building the pcc from hell.
Problem: So I built this pcc with the parts listed below, for the first maybe 400ish rounds the gun ran fantastic, then during my first stage I got to the end of the stage and pullet the trigger and got nothing I got a dead trigger, afterwords I pulled the bolt and the firing pin was stuck just popping a tiny bit outside of the firing pin hole, creating very small dimples in the primers. I cleaned and lubed the firing pin and cleaned the firing pin hole as best i could with a wire brush. Then it started failure to fire 1-5 shots into a stage, on every stage. So I would eject the round pull the trigger and get a click (checkout my instagram @andrewt556 for a video) after ejecting 1-5 rounds it would run again. post stage pulled the bolt and the tip of the pin looks uniform/okay however the rear of the pin has a slight mushroom very slight hardly noticeable, then I notice the hammer of the trigger is causing a indentation right bellow and above the rear of the firing pin in the bolt. I pulled the Original taccom firing pin and installed a CMMG 9mm firing pin with a new spring. I still ran into the same issue with a new pin. I shot another 11 stage match today and shot for fun at the end 400 ish rounds and every single stage I had to eject a round at some point. In practice however it would run for the 6 round plate rack flawlessly.
Summary(sorry for length I'm trying to be as descriptive as possible)
A few rounds in to a stage I pull the trigger and nothing happens(hammer falls but no strikes on rounds found on the ground post stage) eject the round same thing then suddenly starts shooting again after repeating the process 1-3 times.
Parts:
Taccom Barrel and extreme bolt
replaced the taccom (the "old" style) firing pin with a ccmg firing pin.
changed the spring and retainer too
PSA lower with the stock buffer
https://palmettostatearmory.com/psa-9mm-billet-complete-glockc-style-magazine-moe-lower-blk.html
CMC 2.5 lb trigger
https://www.cmctriggers.com/standard-trigger-pull-flat-2-5-lbs/
solutions: No f_cking clue someon suggested heavier buffer wight and a lighter spring. not sure what to do, I need this running 100% july 7th so I dont have time to wait for parts. PRimary arms however is local to me.
Thank you
PS sorry for poor spelling, punctuation and grammar
again sorry if anything is unclear let me know if you have any questions
feel free to post here or email me @andrewt556@gmail.com
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How much did it cost with the optic - cerakote?
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I recently bought a Taccom Bolt and the firing pin that came with it was heat treated I have yet to fire it yet thought.
To mpx or not?
in Pistol Caliber Carbine
Posted
I heard mpx used to break a lot and had to cleaned vigorously