[Hawaii 2006]

Layout was pretty basic a couple vision barriers causing you to run sideways about ten yards 6 visible targets in a row paralell to firing line about 15 yards at each end of the firing line was a steel fullsize popper. knocking down the popper activated a swinger on the other side of the line. so basically you started on left hit the steel run sidways shooting as you go hit right steel move back to the left for last swinger. In a nutshell left popper activated right swinger, right popper left swinger, so here I go shooter ready beep bang bang bang moving right shoot the right popper and no activater on right side so I stop assuming range malfunction a few seconds later I realize mistake and finish with a pretty lousy time. But to make matters worse, I was the stage builder and ran all the cross ropes.

[Single Stack Division Holster, 561 Or ?]

The 5186 is pretty much not usable It is very tight, seems like they fit the kydex but didnt allow for the suede lining, I have added extra spacers to adjustment but no luck you can get it to loosen that way but if the gun tilts forward any during the draw it jams. A better similar holster is the Hellwegs. Also suede lined Kydex they fit alot better.

[Hitting Mag Release With Left Thumb]

D.R. Middlebrook teaches that technique. While admitting it may not be as fast. Using your left thumb is one of those Allways works techniques like slingshotting the slide. bring gun in hit mag release sweep heal of left hand down front of grip catching the front lip of the magazine and sweeping down to the mag pouch for the new mag. Although if everything is perfect and your mag actually drops free every time the right thumb drop can be faster. the left thumb method will eliminate any lost time if a mag doesnt drop.

[A Little Bit Of Fluorescent Red Paint.....]

Head back to the same hobbly shop and pick up some glow in the dark paint and mix it, Gotta be charged with light but glow pretty good

[Case Trimmers And Primer Pocket Tools?]

tumble and load, I generally just toss cases with crimped primers. Basically military surplus ammo uses crimped primers. Also some eastern ammo uses laquered primers (The red stuff on S& I dont mess with them either but a little handheld primer pocket reamer will allow you to use them if for some reason that's what your free brass supply is.

[Load Date And Bullet Seating]

Seating depth is usually determined by functioning in the gun some guns like OAL of different length. You are corect too short can raise pressure. Max OAL is usally the same when measured from bullet OGIVE not the tip. The ogive is the farthest forward part of bullet that is full diameter. Basically a pointed bullet can have a longer OAL than a blunt shaped bullet and still function. When dealing with basic blasting ammo and not trying to push the envelope generally a middle load works fine, Middle of OAL middle of powder charge. I have seen some bullets that need to be really short to chamber so allways check the first couple before you load a bunch. Substituting data for similar shaped and same weight bullets is ok as long as you start low on the reccommended powder setting. The .45 is a low pressure round and you have lots of safety room.

[Sa 9mm Single Stack Mags]

OK OK. First generally 38 Super mags will work fine in a 9mm 1911 especially with longer ammo. Basically winchester either reload or whitebox. The white box win 115 ball is loaded to 1.169 oal. Anyway I built an IDPA 9mm single stack 1911. Started off with metalform 38 super 10 round mags. worked great for awhile but the springs wore out quickly. Metal forms were the only mags I found that give true 10 round use. Chip Mccormick pattern and others would take ten rounds but would only reload from slidelock. pretty useless for a tack reload unless down loaded to nine rounds. Replacement springs didnt quite work in the metal forms. The 9mm 1911 isnt called a gamers gun for nothing. IDPA rules state gun most start loaded to capacity. which is 9+1 usually . Almost all IDPA stages are set up around 6 rounds. As in 6-12-18 etc. I would bet about 80% are 12 round stages. to be netraul for 10+1's ., 7 or 8+1 in cdp, or 6 shot revelvers... IE everyone reloads once but only once. The best way is a 9 plus one gun. Take 6 targets engaged two per. The 10 + 1 guy will either do a tac reload or 2,2,2,2,2,1 reload reengage 1, 9+1 guy will 2,2,2,2,2, slide lock reload 2. So long story short, you'll pull your hair out getting 10+1 capability in your 1911 9mm but not gain any advantage. If your not gaming and just wanna carry 10+1 and don t plan on doing any reloads chip mccormick or metalform 10 round 38 super mags will work

[Sa 9mm Single Stack Mags]

Dont...........

[Retune Para 40 Mags To 9mm]

Yep best bet is auction your .40 mags and bight the bullet and buy new 9mm's They are out there just gotta dig, Try CDNN, Para customer service on the phone (they have more than websight lists) Dawson, or STI.

[Sight Width]

I really really like the SDM U notch rear with a Novak front. Novak front only because I can get them for any height. The SDM rear is a Novak shape rear but the notch is at the rear of the sight and a little bigger than stock Novaks. Gonna also agree with above poster. Which is the generally excepted rule 1/3 1/3 1/3. Basically a front sight width of light on each side of front sight when taking a sight picture unless we are talking Bulls eye style which I know nothing about.

[Fiber Optic Front Sight]

Sigma is not a very popular gun guru tinkering platform. I say save your money and buy ammo. I have run the gamut of sights looking for an edge. Fiber optic fronts stand out a little in dim light but if you time yourself you'll find they dont really do much. I have used tritium, fiber optic, express lines dots etc etc. Give me a wide U notch rear and a blade front. I might throw some white paint on the front but might not. Oh and all steel no screws clickers or nobs.