BlackBuzzard
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Posts posted by BlackBuzzard
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I've had 100.000% success with my Wolf SR primers. I can't say that for my Winchesters but they are probably 99.99% GTG.
I ordered another 20K of assorted Wolf primers from Widener's last night. I'm good for at least the next month.
That is good to hear since I've got 15,000 on the way.....and I had my doubts.
Still some companies might let quality slip a little when faced with overwhelming demand and the highest profit margins ever for primers.
Time will tell.
Anecdotally, I am hearing that the quality of finished ammo in general has slipped recently. Possibly because they are running as hard as they can to make the stuff.
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Finally...........some breathing room.
Wideners UPS notification for 15K SP primers came - wolf.
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BB, With a piece of foil, touch the + and - terminals. Then insert a new battery. This will reboot the timer. Happen to me. It will be fine.
U da Man!
:cheers: Worked EXACTLY as you stated.
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My Club Pact III Timer suddenly stopped working completely......no display or sound.
Put in fresh battery and measured a good 9volts at the circuit board contacts where battery wires connect.
So clearly is something on the board.
I ask because sometimes its as simple as a cold solder joint that can be touched up.
Has any electrically inclined shooter brought their Club III timer circuit board back to life?
So before I toss it in the trash...........
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For those that have clamps, can you tell me if you are putting anything in between the clamp and the barrel/tube (e.g. electrical tape, paint, etc.)? Also, what amount of torque are you applying to the screw to mount the clamp?
I get very slight movement and just live with it - nothing between clamp and barrel. Keep in mind the barrel gets real hot sometimes.......
.The bolts are steel and the clamp body is some aluminum alloy for the Nordic I believe. So I am careful about over torquing steel bolts into aluminum.
Just that fact that the clamps move is testament to the forces going on (whipping action) when fired.
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Look at some of those slow mo videos of rifle or shotgun barrels when fired.............an undulating wave (flex) radiates down the barrel and back when fired.
The way I see it, the mag tube will feel some of those forces at the point where it attaches to the gun.
Now consider that the mag tube is heavily weighted (with lead shot) all the way out from where it threads on.
IMO even the best tubes may snap off eventually, and I've seen this happen.......big pile of spring, shells and tube get unloaded onto the ground, and thats the end of your shooting day.
Nordic clamp is what I have on my Benelli.
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Something similar happened (nearly a fight) years ago in Dallas.......
And of all things it was an argument over Glock verus 1911 platforms at an IDPA match.
No doubt some DFW area readers will recall this........please, no names or ranges.
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So I have been buying more powder than usual since stuff has been so hard to get.....
Not to be a smart-a$$, but that does kind of explain it all.
VV says powder will smell acidic when going bad, but otherwise is quite stable when properly stored.
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I wish I had several full 55gallon drums of brass out back.............like some I know.
Then I might take it to the next level and "industrialize" the process with some of these ideas.
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If someone has large amounts of brass to clean, what about using an old beater washing machine? Plenty of them out there for cheap.
Now the brass might bust up the impeller, chip enamel off, or get wedged between impeller and bottom of tank( so use a beater machine)............but I'd go that route just to see what happens.
Probably the mixing action would be poor with most of the brass staying on the bottom.......but worth a try.
Anyone done this?
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When it come to conducting fluids (water) and alternating current, there exist very specific requirements............swimming pool pumps, washing machines, electric power washers etc.
I'd be very interested in seeing what Dillon says about filling their tumblers with liquid and then turning them on.......in fact I would speculate that Dillon specifically says NOT.
Just dont want someone to get hurt out there, which is why I write this.
At least use a GFI if one insists on going this route.
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Has anyone noticed that the Dillon tumblers are watertight? Same solution for about 30 minutes in the tumbler gives me the same results.
Carefull there.....
Unless Dillon says you can do it, you risk electrocution.
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I use Bullfrog lotion.
They all leave your hands greasy to some extent. So I bring a bottle of rubbing alcohol and some rags to scrub the stuff off my palms after application.....works great.
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I was in a squad at a level III match where a procedural was given to someone for not taping at all during a particular stage.
Must be the 10.6.1 rule ????
Has anyone seen this done before?
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PV shipped an order from 3-18-09 $249.78 with ship/hazmat per 10K WSP
hmmmmmmmm...
I ordered on 3/4/09 and have heard nothing about my 15k WSP from PV
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I expect these folks .... http://www.weibel.dk/Default.aspx ........ might make a highly accurate doppler radar.
And chono makers equipment that we all have and use, KNOW how accurate their stuff is but decline to say anything (that's a little spooky to me)
.Personally I'm going with a +/- 4 percent figure at the chono stage. And I feel for those that get penalized when close to the edge since there is a 50% chance their ammo really does make PF.
This topic would make for a fine FRONT SIGHT article (anyone listening?), comparing off the shelf chronos with gold standard, callibrated, and certified equipment. Previously penalized shooters might be vindicated!
Prior match awards get recinded and awarded to rightfull recipients. But then ad space purchased in said publication by chrono-makers might drop off a little thereafter, eh?
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The chronograph is an instrument, not unlike say lab instruments.
And as such, there should be accuracy and precision percentages listed in product manuals, but can find nothing out there.
While my chrony displays 1382 fps, it might be incorrect to record it as such if (for example) the accuracy is +/- 1.5% or a range of 40fps.
Any scientific reports out there that shed any light on what kind of accuracies we should expect?
I bet the dudes at Aberdeen PG (at least in the old days) have some answers.
And given that CED and others dont's make any statement at all, I sometimes wonder.
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We all know chronographs are not repeatable to within an acceptable margin of error that we expect in our sport.
And to add a new testing apparatus makes it more complex, and its something we dont want to buy.
My solution? Keep it simple and less painfull. If you get between 163 and 165 PF, its an automatic single procedural - thats all and thats within what I've seen as the margin of repeatability of chronographs. Below 163 and you are scored minor.
We cant just keep on pretending that the chronographs we use are even remotely accurate to the significant digits we record.
The real tragedy here is all the time wasted on this stupid "stage".......when we could otherwise have an extra REAL shooting stage at major matches.
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With my son, he often stovepipes the G34, with 129PF loads..........but works 100% for me.
Fill it up with factory Blazer 115grn, and it runs for my son 100%.
I am surprized that this is the case.........but it is.
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Got into the L10!
Er, the classification page just made everything related to the waitlist and slot offer disappear, but didn't put up anything confirming that I paid and have the slot. What do you all see?
I see the same thing....... they state "Waitlist payment processed for TY#####
Please verify this by visiting your classification record at www.uspsa.org."
=================================================
I may make phone call before deadline to make sure all it right unless my class page reflects a payment of $250 made soon.
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Having worked at Dillon for over 20 years now, I have heard and seen almost everything that can go wrong while reloading. I have had one customer that discharged a 45ACP cartridge while reseating a primer that hadn't been seated properly. Powder(W231 in this instance) had leaked into the primer pocket thru the flash hole, taking up the room where the primer was supposed to go. Reseating the primer compressed the anvil into the priming compound, causing the primer, and everything above it to go boom! In this instance no one was hurt, but the size die was blown out of the top of the frame(RL450). I know of at least six or seven commercial loaders that have suffered various degrees of eyesight and bodily damage due to depriming live primers. the problem is not when A primer goes off, the problem is when the solitary primer that goes off sets off the 327 other deprimed live primers that have accumulated in the spent primer cup. This much shrapnel shatters even safety plastic, ignites the full primer pickup tubes setting on the bench, blows live primers under your skin (priming compound is very toxic ), sets the garage on fire, causes cateracts, sets shop aprons on fire, and lots of other mean, nasty stuff.
At a minimum, dump the spent primers out of the cup, and fill the cup with water. That way any flash won't reach any other live primers in the cup.
BTW, don't store powder on a shelf above the top of the primer magazine, and don't install flourescent lights directly over your reloader.
(lecture mode OFF)
Publishing a small pamphlet (shiped with reloading manuals) detailing incidents, dangerous practices, and the outcomes might prevent some folks from wandering off the path of safe practice.
But I suspect lawyers would nix this idea.
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Who has received their small pistol primer order from Powder Valley? If so when did you order?
I ordered on March 3 and I'm still waiting.
Just trying to get a clue as to whether there is anything at all happening with their backorders.
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In the looooong run, most of those products give the fence a mottled or blotchy appearence.
Just my opinion, but keep it natural.
Having spent close to 10k on a Texas cedar fence I too considered wood treatments, except that my neighbors's was beginning to look like crap
just a few years after wood "treatment" - dont know what he used.Trying to use as many emoticons as possible.
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Prior match awards get recinded and awarded to rightfull recipients. 
Having worked at Dillon for over 20 years now, I have heard and seen almost everything that can go wrong while reloading. I have had one customer that discharged a 45ACP cartridge while reseating a primer that hadn't been seated properly. Powder(W231 in this instance) had leaked into the primer pocket thru the flash hole, taking up the room where the primer was supposed to go. Reseating the primer compressed the anvil into the priming compound, causing the primer, and everything above it to go boom! In this instance no one was hurt, but the size die was blown out of the top of the frame(RL450). 
Benelli Ghost load
in Shotgun - Technical
Posted
Wheres the advantage with ghost load if, as in my case, the gun holds one more than division allows anyway?
(24" barrel with full length Nordic tube)
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