[Anyone have a photo of a Nordic +6 on M2 24'' barrel]

Not to redirect the thread, but.........

Clamps: I see some without any clamp, some with basic clamp, and then there's the above manly looking Nordic clamp. Which way to go and why?

Are clamps really really necessary?

BB

[Not seeing the sights]

What has helped me a lot was long sessions with a .22LR semi auto pistol on steel, at mildly challenging distances.

Ammo is dirt cheap and one gets instant auditory feedback on hit/no-hit. Some days I fire over 500 rounds........used to do that with 9mm when blazer was $3.50/box.

Just focus on the front sight, going two shots on each steel.

Leave the timer at home and just watch front sight for this type session.

BB

[Talk me out of a Benelli for Tactical]

All this concern about wally world grade ammo feed to benelli's?

I have feed my M1 a mix of wallyworld shotshells, better stuff shotshells, and all sorts of low and high power slugs.

In about 2500 rounds fired since new, I have yet to have a malfunction.

Now having said that, the shotgun demons will no doubt descend upon me and my M1 next match.

BB

[Working the Glock's Sear]

The jerky trigger creep feel is likely at the connector and trigger bar interface.

Polish well in this area, or even pop in another connector or trigger bar - you should keep extras anyway and they are cheap.

After polishing and such, try different combinations of connectors and trigger bars. Each combination will have a slightly different feel.

BB

[Benelli M1 barrels]

Given the price of a 24in vent rib barrel for my M1 (likely $350? if I can find one), compared to an entire all new M2 at $1000, I am inclined to just add another complete shotgun -the M2 - to the gun vault.

Benelli barrels sure seem pricey and uncommonly hard to get for the M1. :angry2:

BB

[Recoil and second shot follow up]

Sorry for the omission.......

I was shooting a Glock 34 with a 13 pound spring and OEM guide rod (I use tungsten on my G35).

Yes it does seem as if the slide cycles faster with the hotter rounds.........the sight picture for the second shot is just there immediately. And the "ding" confirm report on steel is noticeably quicker too, for obvious round velocity reasons.

How fast does the slide cycle time wise? I always assumed, incorrectly perhaps, that slide speed is mostly not a factor.

BB

[Recoil and second shot follow up]

This goes against what I've always thought and practiced..........but, today I was faster with two shots on steel using 9mm CCI blazer 115grain ammo, than I was with my own 147 grain barely-makes-minor load.

While the Blazer 9mm CCI clearly provides snappier recoil, for some reason the sights just seem to come back onto target quicker for the second shot.

This drill was draw and hit 8 in. dia. steel plate at about 20 yards two times. I was around 2.8 sec with my light recoil loads, and about three to four tenths faster with the blazer.

I am having a hard time figuring this one out.

BB

[Barrel for M1 Super 90]

Currently I use a M1 Benelli super 90 with rifle sights on the 18.5 in barrel.

I have a hankering for something longer, say 21 or 24 inches, with vented rib and interchangable chokes, which I could just pop on to my existing M1.

Is there a barrel made by Benelli that fits, or are there foregrip issues to be solved here?

Any online Benelli barrel sources to recommend?

Also, where do I get those foldup/folddown rear notch sights that some use on their vented rib barrels?

BlackBuzzard

[Trigger Reset Problem]

Sounds sort of like the issue I had.......heres the thread.

http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?...mp;#entry632340

BB

[Extended Tungsten Guide Rod]

I am trying to add a little extra weight to the front end. I went from the stock rod in my 35 to the Stainless Steel and now I am thinking about trying the extended Tungsten.

I have checked with TopGlock and CGR and they dont have any in stock. Can you guys recomend another place to try?

Thanks,

Jayson Smith

Damn those metal shortages and price increases..................lead and copper too.

I have a tungsten rod in my 35, but I still feel I'm faster with my stock 34, for what thats worth.

The 35 is slower to transition in my opinion with the heavy rod, but more sight stable......less bouncey.

BlackBuzzard

[First top 10 finish!]

Tell us the ammo used. Do they run well on once/twice used mixed brass? What are your major loads? How many rounds fired so far with this open gun?

I keep hearing about finicky function when going to 9x19 major as opposed to 38 super. Yet 9x19 major is still growing in open major category.

BlackBuzzard

[Malfunction]

Update us what's the cause and how you resolve it.

It ran well in todays match - 3gun so it saw limited action. My fix was as I described originally..................just ever so slightly bent the trigger bar (where it touches the striker tab) up, so as to have a touch more engagement on striker.......and I do mean slightly!

I replaced the plastic striker channnel liner recently with new one......so that should be good. G34 has like 40,000 rounds through it with gobs of dry fires.

I can duplicate the exact trigger feel (when malfunctioning) by cycling the trigger with the slide off and moving the trigger bar and connector by hand to reset. At this point I think I was correct in my fix and original assumption, that the trigger bar was just not grabbing the striker tab when I dropped the slide by slide release lever.

Theres got to a lot of slop in that G34 fit......most 3.5 pound connectors make it double. I have one 3.5 pound connector that it seems to like and not double with.

BlackBuzzard

ps. no overtravel thingy on this G34

[Malfunction]

Here's my problem: with slide locked back, insert loaded magazine, and drop slide with slide release lever. The trigger resets fully forward at this point along with slide going into full battery. When trigger is pulled there is unusual resistance with the trigger safety and then the trigger just snaps all the way with no shot fired. Sometimes this happens with the more traditional load-and-make-ready process, where I pull the slide back by hand and release.......then at buzzer my first trigger pull yields no shot.

What I think is happening is the trigger bar is not grabbing the striker tab when the slide is dropped (or it slips off early) .......though it works just fine in followup fire if the first shot goes off.

What I have done in effort to fix, is ever so slightly bent the trigger bar tab (cruciform??) where it engages the striker a minute amount upward. Dry cycling seems to show this fixed it.....will range test later.

Tell me I am on (or not) the right track here?

Gun: G34 with very high miles, triggerkit.com guts. Lots of slop in the slide to lower rails fit........good candidate for slide tightening.

BlackBuzzard

[Open Major versus Production Glock recoil]

OK.......I'm considering an open S&J G17 for next year (9mm major). I would like some feedback on perceived recoil, muzzle rise, and muzzle blast differences when going from production G34 (130 PF) to major within the Glock family.

The reason I ask, is that for the longest time I had issues with flinching and blinking - even with 130PF 9mm. I since stopped all range practice and replaced it with dry fire time in basement, with great success........all aspects of my game have improved!

Would going to major/open possibly bring back those bad old habits?

BlackBuzzard

[Newbie reloader question]

Cranked out my first rounds of 40SW in minor for my G35 with stock barrel. (180g berry's plated, once used brass reloaded with 3.5g TG, WSP, about 1.130 OAL, mean vel. 808fps, stand. Dev. of 17fps)

The spent cases have a black smear that runs down the side for about half the case length, starting at the case mouth. Is this normal? Is this a sign of overpressure?

New factory ammo does it too, but with much less black smear.

I have closely inspected the cases for all the usual signs of over pressure that I know of - primer indications, case bulges - and all looks good.

All feedback appreciated.

BB

[Hybrid Glock 35 Doubles Real Bad]

With 75 rounds of 40SW (CCI, brass, 165grn, about 1050fps) fired today, on four occasions my hybrid G35 doubled or tripled at least three times. By hybrid I mean I put a modified G34 lower on to a stock G35 upper*. The G34 lower has all polished parts, 17 pound recoil spring, triggerkit.com parts (trigger bar redrilled, different trigger spring, lighter striker spring, and lighter safety spring, 3.5 pound connector). The entire attached G35 upper is stock.

This problem does not occur with the completely stock G35 lower and upper. This problems does not occur with the combined G34 lower and G34 upper, shooting 9mm Blazer 115grn ammo.

I combined the G35 lower and G35 upper so I could see how the 40SW feels with the lighter-than-stock trigger of the modified G34 lower I've been shooting for years. The G34 lower has at least 25,000 rounds through it by now.

Am I correct in assuming G35 and G34 lowers are identical as shipped from Glock? In my case the G34 lower is an older two pin model while the G35 is three pin.

Any thoughts on what the offending parts are on the modified G34 lower that cause the it to double when attached to a stock G35 upper?

I plan to modify the now stock G35 lower in the same way at I did the G34.

((*sorry for the AR speak, by "upper" I mean the entire slide assembly.))

All input appreciated.

BlackBuzzard

[I Found Something Odd When Cleaning]

For what it's worth my G34 gets a lot of brass shavings in the channel too. Its got all aftermarket springs.

Also, a used G35 I just picked up (still had the copper paste on rails) and cleaned up real good had significant brass in channel too.

Impressive analysis a few posts back.......with striker hole shaving the brass on case.

BlackBuzzard