mpeltier
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Posts posted by mpeltier
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No direspect intended Kurt but maybe your poll is a bit out of date. According to the 2007 RM3G final results it appears there were 29 Heavy metal shooters, 15 scoped and 14 Iron. Or did I miss something?
Trapr what did you shoot in that tournament?
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I dont get it, I guess. All that performance that will go pretty much unused on the street and the looks of an average Japanese sports car. For that kind of $$ I would stick with the awsome Corvette Z06 or better yet the 2009 ZR-1 with their meager performance specs
and first class styling. But I guess beauty is in the eye of the beholder. -
I shot Heavy metal at the 2006 A-6 3-gun and because it was a catagorie of Limited almost changed to Tactical. I did not like it bieng a catagorie and at 2007 A-6 I shot Tactical. For 2008 I will probably switch back to HM with these changes. These changes are provisional, and refinements are bound to be made. I shoot a SS.45 but dont like the limitation of SS pistol either, it hurts no one to allow any .45 to play. As far as optics go, why not, it will be a good test this year to see how the split between optic and irons in HM will be. I hope the biggest dilution is drawn from Tactical and to a lesser degree Limited divisions. That end of the pool is very crowded.
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I started using a new 308 AR last season for Heavy Metal 3-gun. The only ammo to go thru it to date is about 300 rds of S&B commercial ammo marked non-corrosive on the box. Bought new also late last year (packed in the current green and yellow boxes). I went to clean it the other day and was horrified when I looked thru the barrel at the complete coating of rust in the bore. It looked like a chia-pet had moved in to my rifles barrel. The inside of the BC comp also was very badly rusted. The bolt assembly is spotless, but the roll pin in the front sight base is clearly rusted a bit. I immediately set about scrubing and cleaning and the bore luckily is not pitted or visibly damaged, in fact it is very shiney again with good deep rifling. I have other AR's that have CM barrels and have never had any exhibit any type of rusting such as this. Could this non-corrosive ammo actually be corrosive?????? If so is there anything else neccessary to remove the corrosive compounds from the barrel????
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Its the fit of your thumb safety. With new hammer and sear the thumb safety has to be replaced or refit. in your case it seems to need refitting. If you have not done this before you really should see a gunsmith.
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At the very least I would replace the hammer. If it were my gun I would replace the hammer, sear, disconector and the sear spring and probably would require a new thumb safety. If you are not schooled in fitting those parts (especially the thumb safety) you should see your local gunsmith.
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I got one with a certificate from A-6 3-gun tournament. Side by side with my Mil-std recievers there is a noticible "Beefyness" (is that a real word) to the LaRue. Quality (as with everything LaRue) is outstanding. I fastened a WOA barrel to it and added a Titanium carrier and it now is my most accurate AR15.
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My 18" w/jp barrel & magpull PRS stock weigh in at a tad over 10 lbs with optic.
My 18" w/WOA barrel and Ace stock weigh in at 8.5 lbs with optic.
The heavier gun feels lighter and more lively in transitions I believe because it is weighted hevier towards the butt than the muzzle. And the gas systems are literaly the same on both and the heavier gun is noticably softer shooting. My opinion is its not how much it weighs but where the weight is that matters the most.
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Kurt
What is the distance from the shooter to the target in your rifle bounce drill?
OOps....Just noticed in your first post it was 200-300 yd rifle bounces.
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I posted my Benelli rear sight fix awhile back but here are some pics again. Using a dremel I made a shalow long groove as pictured and filled it with white paint. Has lasted a year and still looks perfect. It shoots to point of aim at 50yds on mine. farther out you have to dope the slugs trajectory (like with any sight)
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OK, so you start with thumb on it from the start like I always have. I to believe in not wasting any motion and work very hard and believe I am very good with economy of motion. But I think in this case what i am experimenting with is not actualy wasting motion, (my timer was telling me this) and here is why. Brian states in his book about the speed of the draw, "its perfectly ok to make some adjustments as the gun is coming up". My grip on the gun is more secure in what feels like a quicker grab from the holster.Trying to have my thumb in just the right spot takes more effort and adjustment to get a good grip. Rotating my thumb up takes no time away from anything. With more practice my draw times may be faster, only time will tell. But the big difference was the accuracy improvement and splits due to what I percieve as a far better grip with little to no adjustment afterward. This of course is just experimentation on my part and maybe ill end up back where I was but would like to hear if others have tried this or not.
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I did a search and scanned back a couple years worth of pages and found nothing on this subject. I have always gripped the 1911 with my thumb on the safety with good results.
During the draw as I grip the pistol my thumb always started out on top of the safety, ready to push it down as my arms would extend towards the target. The problem for me is it always seems to result in a less than optimal interface between my shooting hand and the pistol. I absolutely must have the grip safety pinned or no bang.
Recently I have been scrutinizing my technique and tried gripping the gun while in the holster with my thumb under the safety, and rotating my thumb over it just before achiving my weekhand grip and engaging it down at the same point as before. There is a noticable differance in how tight the pistol feels in my strong hand without having to squeeze any harder. (draw times are identical with either method)
Yesterday I tested it out by setting up three poppers at 15yds and double tapping each. Went thru about 100 rounds and found that with the new grip method my sight track never left the target zone and achived 100% success of both shots hitting the steel target. The old gripping method did not fare so well.
When do you other High thumbhold get your thumb on the safety and does anyone use or tried my newly discovered method?
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This past weekend I was at the range doing some practice drills. Not sure what the drill is called but it was three IPSC's at 15 yds, 5sec par time and only A's count. My amigo and I are very similarly skilled and niether of us could "Graduate" to the 20yd line. I even tried shooting regardless of the time and still managed to throw a shot per string aiming as slowly as I could. This would explain my misses on long shots at some recent big matches. During this practice session I became more and more aware of my front site, and ulimately my whole gun and its firing cycle. I have seen my front site before and seen it lift, but this was different. I actually could see and feel the slide cycle, the hammer fall, I felt the slide moving (my week hand thumb was lightly touching it) saw the spent cartridges etc. and I remember having the time to think I am shooting so slowly Im going to run out of time, but did not. This was a very cool experiance but did not really obsorb what was happening until I was driving home. The problem I noticed with my front site is it is way too narrow for my aging eyes. this i became more aware of as my total awareness was tunig in if you will.
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I finally gave up trying to get my P18 to slide lock on an empty mag. Tried springs, followers, slide stop, ammo. Nothing seems to work to consistantly lock the slide. But the gun runs 110% in every other way so I have been using it as is and have not ever had it become an issue during a match. In a match if I run to slide lock ive already blown it somewhere and racking the slide is not likely to do any further damage. I think the problem may be the 1911 was designed for the .45 which is a much fatter cartridge and the follower/slide stop relationship is based on this dimension. With a 9mm the cartridge is of course much smaller and lets the slide stop to contact the follower with a round still in the mag and further exagerated with high cap mags. To cure premature slide lock the tolerance is very close and only a tiny bit of wear or play in the follower causes just the opposite and no slide lock. This probably does not help you but if you find a reliable fix please post it.
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Dang, the wifes B-day is the 3rd of Oct. I better get her something really good.
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The 55's were FMJ's. I dont reload .223 (yet). I did try 60 gr V-max Black hills as well. They did no better than the 55's. No ammo used was surplus. All factory. (I know even factory 55's are not match ammo) If i could get my hands on the bullets you are talking about in a factory load (without it costing $30.00 a box)I would try them. I think my 550B is going to get converted to .223 very soon. My post wasnt meant to be about the ammo though as that is getting a bit off topic. I was simply offering up another option to the OP regarding a barrel choice.
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I just put together another rifle and used a White Oak Armament 18" SPR barrel. It has rifle gas, wylde chamber, 1/7 twist, SS, threaded, medium contour (41oz.). I mounted it to a LaRue billet upper with a Precision Titanium bolt carrier with a bolt I ordered from WOA at time of barrel purchase. Barrel was $248.00 + $40.00 for the bolt. with off the shelf 55gr I am getting about 1 to 1-1/4 inch 100 yd grps. Nothing spectacular. Yesterday went back to the range with some Black hills 75 gr match HP ammo. wow, most groups were under 1/2", none were bigger than 3/4". And I am by no means a bench rest shooter. I think Ill keep this barrel.
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On long stages like that, or ones that are close to my normal on belt capacity (20 + 9 in gun) I have an old Military pouch that I got at an army navy store. Its green and has M180 stamped on it. The mouth of the bag has very heavy webing stitched on it and stays open, and the strap I cut and attached a fastex type buckle to adjust it to my waist. I position it so it is hanging just to the left of my belt shell carriers so I dont have to search around the rest of my body for more shells. I drop the shells I want into the bag facing the same direction as the ones in the carrier and they always stay put. I just grab what I need from it and load (weak hand).
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I hate it too. But it does have one good use. It is the only cure I know of for Hic-ups. My Grandmother tought me this and it owrks. If you got the hic-ups put a generous amount on a teaspoon and eat it off the spoon all at once. For years every person I have tried this with instantly had the hic-ups dissapear.
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Are you pulling the trigger with thumb on top of safety? Do you also have a working grip safety? If yes to both questions you may not be getting full engagement of the grip safety when gripping and shooting with off hand. It used to happen to me.
OOps.. I missed the part in your post where you taped the grip safety. Must be something else.
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If you cant silver solder it you might try JB weld epoxy. Clean both parts really good with laquer thinner before applying. Make sure any excess is wiped clean (especially inside where the shells ride) I have seen amazing things done with JB weld.
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This movie left me with mixed feelings. I liked it but expected more. I generaly forgive a movie for the holes but I wanted the holes in this one filled in on-screen not in my imagination. Will Smiths performance as usual was first rate. I did like it enough to buy the Blue Ray DVD of the "Omega Man".
I believe the Dark Earth finish pistol was an H&K. Looked like a USP.
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I started 3-gun with a Rem 1100 fully tricked out for the sport. For 4 years it ran perfectly and hardly had a malfunction and never broke anything. And yes it got shot a lot. and not with whimp loads either, as I never drilled the gas port. Then I started to see and hear a lot about the Benelli's and figured I just had to have one. I bought a pistol gripped tacticool M2, then called Benny. Darned if I should have called Benny first. I listened, shot the tactical for a couple months then sold it, bought a M2, 21" w/comforttech, did the things Benny and Kurt told me and spent more than enough to build two rem 1100's. I do love my M2 now though. I cant say I love it because its better, or because its so expensive I better love it.
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Seems extractor related to me. If the rim cant slip under the hook it will wedge the round just as described. I would get the gun to malfunction just as described and look to see exactly where the extractor is contacting the round. See if it has a bur or a sharp edge and carefully break it with a fine file and polish it up. Lube the gun after you clean and try it again.
and first class styling. But I guess beauty is in the eye of the beholder.
Shadow Divers
in Books, Movies, TV & Music
Posted
I am a retired SCUBA instructor and accomplished wreck diver so when I picked up this book I did not have high hopes as I thought the book would be diluted with BS. At the time this was unfolding I worked in a New England Dive shop and we heard stories about this discovery as it was in our back yard. I found the book very accurate in its detail about the diving so for me that adds to the credibility of the story in general. Finding a previously undiscovered German U-Boat off shore of the united states is an incredible once in a lifetime opportunity. These guys risked (and some lost) their lives to unfold a piece of WWII history. The Author did a great job of presenting the story in an interesting and easy to visulize fasion. Many people do not realize how big a threat the german U-Boats were to our Eastern seaboard. After reading the book I thought it ironic that such a fearsome killing machine from WWII is still deadly. I recomend it.