Alan550
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Posts posted by Alan550
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I'll be interested to see what people who were there thought regarding the format change.
Personally, I really feel for Kyle Scmidt. A perfect score in the match (one of only two) and then what looks to be an equipment problem in the repeat shoot and it drops him way down the list.
Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
Only one shot fired @ the 15-yd line on one string of the mover. Either an equipment malfunction or he forgot to reload. Terrible thing to happen, but it happens to "the very best". Those cameras can really screw up a shooter!
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The 4th & 5th place shooters (Greg Davis {Greginva} & Kevin Angstadt {Actionpistolero}) are from our little ole club here in the foothills of VA. Greg also got 1st Revolver, 2nd Lawman and 3rd on Barricades with a round gun!
Congrats guys!
Alan~^~
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He's referring to the old style primer flip-tray. I got mine in the 80s when I bought my 550 (not 550b) and he's correct. It is too small for the Federal primer containers. Don't know when they upgraded to the larger one they sell now. The old one is brass colored and the newer version they sell now is black.
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I don't have a dog in this fight, but I'm gonna chime in here anyway.
The first time I saw a "crouched" position for the start of a "prone" stage was several years ago by a shooter at our range who was shorter than average , (the name is unimportant at this time). In the past few years, I've seen numerous shooters assume that position before going prone on the Practical & Falling plates.
When I questioned one of them, he demonstrated the "start" position used by HP shooters @ Camp Perry when going from standing to sitting in that event.....crossed ankles and crouched! They start out in the sitting position and merely stand up without moving the feet from their previous position. This particular individual is a retired SF Lt. Colonel from the Special Forces and knows whereof he speaks. If that's allowed in HP @ Perry, why not something similar in AP?
Technically, it's not "creeping" since there is no movement involved, only a "different" starting position from the "usual". As long as the shooter is "vertical" i.e. standing on two feet and looking at the targets, it would seem to me that this would be acceptable.
Since there has been, to my knowledge, no ruling from an NRA Referee on this, it can't be prohibited.
I've been wrong before, so prove me wrong this time.
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Best bet is to get a set of calibration weights..............cheaper than the $50.00 scale you mentioned. Either that or have someone with an electronic scale weigh a bullet or similar item for you to use as a check-weight.
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Since I shoot 3 gun, and major and minor mean nothing to me, what good will a chrony do me? I could see some usefulness in loading for rifle, but why do I need one for pistol? Don't get me wrong I'm not opposed to more toys. But what will it tell me?
First off, it will answer your original question. Beyond that, you'll see inconsistencies in your rounds if they exist. For instance, first shot out of the holster where the powder starts against the bullet (muzzle down to start) will probably be a different velocity from subsequent shots where the powder is distributed along the side of the case. Different velocities = different point of impact if there is much difference between them.
With that charge, as Sarge said, it seems like a low dose and your velocities can be all over the place because of powder position if for no other reason. Get yourself a new "toy" and try shots from different starting positions for the powder. Hold the gun muzzle-down, tap the side a couple of times and slowly raise it and fire a shot through the chrono.....repeat a few times. Then try a few after holding it muzzle up with the same routine and I think you'll be surprised at the differences in speed.
At a Regional match several years ago, we had a shooter that wasn't going to make PF on the first 2 shots over the chrono. We tried the muzzle-up routine I listed above and the 3rd shot took him over the minimum enough to make it.
There's a guy who shoots a revolver with us regularly and his first shot has a much different muzzle blast and cylinder gap flash from his subsequent shots that he attributes to the powder being toward the front of the cartridge at the beginning of his run.
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Exit pupil diameter is the term you are trying to use...."eye box" sounds so tawdry. Find out the diameter on 1x and on your highest x for your given optic. (Usually you can get this from the manufacturer). Next look at the recommended eye relief and set your scope at the far end of this value. Next move the scope back towards your eye the amount of the greatest exit pupil diameter. You are now at the optimal placement for the optic, for that given cheek weld.....which does have to be rather consistent.
Exit pupil is determined by this formula......
Objective (front) lens diameter (in millimeters) divided by the power = exit pupil diameter in millimeters.
Ex. 50mm objective divided by 9 (highest power on a 3-9x) = 5.56mm exit pupil. As the power increases, exit pupil shrinks.
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There's all sorts of caveats here too. Unless you remove the ratchet mechanism, you won't be able to back it up enough to get the case out. If you DO take out the ratchet, and are in a normal loading sequence, you won't get a full re-size, powder drop, seat or crimp because the shell plate will advance when/if you raise the handle & shell plate all the way back up.
If you don't go all the way back up, there's also a chance of having partial and a complete powder drop both in a case doing this since the powder slide could go far enough to drop part of the "load" the first time.
I'd think just doing a visual check before dumping in the brass would be a better idea........JMO....$.02
Alan~^~
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Our club carries insurance for the club & the BoD members separately/jointly. Nothing that a shooter signs in the way of a "release" is worth the paper it's printed on. Gotta take care of the club/officers first!
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Don't have a PDF, but here's a place to order some of whatever size you need at a cheap price for stick-ons.
http://www.uline.com/BL_1215/Blank-Circle-Inventory-Labels
We use the 4" black ones for NRA Action Pistol centers and they beat the prices at most "paster" suppliers.
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I think Vera may be one of the first with her win at the Crawfish cup
Tom
Yep, and this will be her first year in GS! I wonder if they changed and added it just for her?
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With the right aluminum and proper lubrication it should last forever. If engines with aluminum pistons and steel/iron sleeved cylinders can last hundreds of thousands of miles running at thousands of RPMs, why wouldn't a aluminum frame gun last? But if the correct aluminum isn't used then it won't last long.
Ummmm, those aluminum pistons have steel piston rings making the contact, so there's no aluminum-on-steel contact with moving parts. Right?
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All Rx lenses are nothing but a series of prisms. The farther you get from the optical center, (OC) the more image displacement you get, especially in a stronger Rx. Most Rx shooting glasses have the OC moved up and toward the nasal corner since most people look through that portion of the lens when in a shooting position, either rifle or pistol. Head position gets more critical the stronger the Rx.
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By raising the whole tool head (and the dies) the dies would no longer be making contact with the shell plate, hence not full-length sizing on the magnums?
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Now when they depreciated the guns. Did you get replacement? Meaning when you bought a new one to replace the old one and had to pay more, did they then reimburse you the difference?
I know that is how homeowners and renters ins. works. I had to go through that last year. Some stuff they didn't give me much for, but after purchasing and submitting a receipt they cut me a check for the difference.
I got a check for the depreciated amount they determined, and that was that. No negotiation or difference allowed between replacement and value.
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The rod that hangs down from the top of the press that moves the primer slide back to pick up a primer.
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I use the NRA insurance through Lockton. Stated value, with itemized items above $2500 value, no sending in serial numbers or pictures. (may be needed in the event of a claim though)
State Farm and American Family wanted full appraisals, photos, etc, etc for everything I wanted covered. No thanks.
I had that NRA insurance during a break-in that cost me plenty! They "depreciate" the guns that you list with them, and don't take into consideration that the guns usually "appreciate" over time. Can't remember the exact numbers, but I really lost on those break-ins/burglaries even with their insurance. Go anywhere BUT NRA for supplemental coverage!
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Check the activation rod too. It may need bending to make things line up right. That was a problem on my old 550 from the mid-80s. It tends, over time, to not line up straight and kicks the slide to one side, locking it up in the position towards you as it tries to pick up a primer.
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For the first time, NRA is going to start recognizing Grand Senior (70+) National Records! It got added to the rule book this year for the first time!
Alan~^~
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Be sure to check for corn cob in the hollow-point if you tumble 'em before the case gauge. It will inevitably fall into the action and tie up the gun at the most inopportune moment!
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"chamfered all 6 cylinders on my revolver"
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Perfectly legal, since there's no "safety" to deactivate. The referees at check-in will look at you funny, but this one's a no-brainer. If it doesn't exist, it can't "operate".
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Talk to the person who orders them for your local club. They may add your order to the club order to save shipping in bulk quantities. I do this for NRA AP targets when our shooters want a box (100) for their own usage. For USPSA targets, you might want to check here:
http://www.nationaltarget.com/product_info.php/ipsc-p-176
They want $82.00/100 if the order totals over 1,000 and there may be a Club discount that's not listed there.
Best bet though is probably what Sarge suggested...Shooters Connection!
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Thank you all for the responses really helps me a lot understanding the conversion....So does anyone know the Dillon item number for sizing die of 38SC? Thanks again
Bryan
K49-14408 Same die for .38 Super & .38 Super Comp.
Conversion 9 to 40, Dillo 650
in 10mm/40 Caliber
Posted
Locator buttons, powder funnel, powder die & .40 dies. You'll be all set.