JROTTY

Quick update. After returning the gun to all stock (except that I keep the 12# recoil spring) and polishing the feed ramp and breach face to a mirror finish, the gun was flawless! Stuffed 18 rounds in each magazines (with a 1.125 COAL) and no FTFs or light strikes. The trigger was a bit heavier (as would be expected) but not really that bad. The fact that it was 100% reliable easily overcame the heavier trigger pull. And this thing is consistent and accurate! I plan to measure exact pull this weekend. I'll shoot it like this for a while and look at reducing the trigger pull after full break-in.

Thanks johnbu. The functionality of the FPB was tested - no issues. I believe it was the Wolff 13#. I'll take care of the hammer hooks during re-assembly. I cleaned the mags but will take another look. When you say "...inside top edge." Can you be a little more specific? On Glock mags, for example, when using extended base pads (especially the +5 type) the lower inside edge of the mag tube as to be smoothed-out so the mag spring does not get hung-up. Same thing for the Tango mag tube?

Really appreciate all the input and advise. So, after installing the Xtreme extended FP and FPB on Thursday (and still running the 13# Wolff hammer spring) I went to the match on Saturday and still experienced some light strikes with my match loads (and flush WSP primers). But get this, right out of the gate, I was getting FTFs. Over 400 rounds through this Tanfo leading up to the match (breaking it in) and the only issue was the occasional light strikes with the 13# Wolff hammer spring. The Xtreme extended FP and FPB was suppose to fix that. But - at the match...it was... "Stand by....BEEP!" and I get FTF on the 1st stage, first round. I know - should have at least gone to the local indoor range to test the extended FP and FPB before the match which may have uncovered the FTF issue. Long story short, it appears that my 1.135ish COAL rounds were possibly binding in the magazine and/or just too long to feed properly (so I have read). I did run about 100 of my match rounds through the gun during break-in but was only loading the mags to 12 to 15 rounds (I have the Henning base pads and Grams guts). At the match, I topped them off. So, now I was having FTF and light strikes. I tried loading the mags short - just 14 rounds. But still getting FTFs. Not a good day. After the match, I took 15 dummy rounds, with a shorter COAL (1.125) and cycled them through the gun 3 consecutive times with no FTFs. Next, return the gun to the baseline - the last configuration that had no issues (which was out of the box, fully stock). In addition to what was previously polished, I've polished the barrel ramp and breach face. Also loaded some fresh rounds (Berry's platted 180 grn RNFP over 4.3 TG, COAL 1.12 but still using the WSP primers. Looking for some federals). Full disassembly, clean (ultrasonic cleaner), reinstall 13# recoil spring, stock hammer spring, FP and FPB and lube where needed. Test fire on Friday at MCB Quantico. If all goes well (and I would be really surprised if it doesn't) I'll shoot another USPSA match on Sunday at Quantico.

So - is the general consensus that 1.125-ish is the ideal COAL for consistency and reliability (for .40 major)? I'm new to the Tango (Witness Elite Limited) and was running a 1.135 COAL and had a few feeding issues. Going to drop to 1.125 and see how that goes.

I have a Hornady LNL and there is no primer seating adjustment. So, since that is the case, a longer FP (with proper spring and FPB) should do the trick - right?

Didn't use a caliper, but the primers are flush with the bottom of the brass shell. BTW - I've loaded over 1,000 rounds - and ran them through my tuned Glock 22 without a single light strike issue. As for polishing, really relying on my buddy, but I don't think he polished the firing pin and channel (but yes on the trigger bar plunder and strut). Going over to his house on Thursday to install the Xtreme extended FP and FPB. Then to a match on Saturday and Sunday.

Put 300 rounds through it on Saturday. After about 200 rounds, checked the sight is it was good to go. Then, after shooting another 100 rounds, the front sight was loose. Went over to my friends shop (seriously nice, well equipped gun shop in his garage) and polished the trigger bar and trigger bar guide and replaced the sear spring (PD reduced power) and installed a 13lb hammer spring. Also replaced the recoil spring from the 13lb that came in the gun with the 12lb that comes with the gun. Trigger pull reduced to 3.5# (perfect for me). As for the DP FO sight, snugged it back down and it seemed good, but when reassembling the slide, the barrel would not go in. Come to find out, the very small DP set screw actually punched through the bottom of the sight screw recess, pushing some of the led filler through the tiny hole, and preventing the barrel for slipping into the slide. So, I cleaned out the led that came through the hole, and tightened the set screw – it was snug. Sunday, went to the local indoor range to check it out. Fired about 100 Precision Delta remanufactured rounds (180 grn) - no issues. Then loaded up a magazine of my match ammo (180 grn over 4,2 TG, OAL 1.135) and had 2 light strikes (using Winchester small primers – could not find Federal anyway). Next step, longer firing pin with the corresponding 13lb spring. Also, the DP FO sight was loose again so I removed the sight, cleaned out all the led, mixed up some JB weld, and filled the sight screw recess hole completely. Going to reinstall the DP FO sight later today - confident it will work. BTW - verified that the newer DP FO sights have the set screw in the middle of the sight housing (not at the rear). I believe I received some old stock.

The DP sight was an easy install. But, as reported here, the set screw is very small and will not contact the slide since it is directly over the recess for the set-screw for the Tango sight. So, I took some lead from and old bullet, formed it, put it over the recess hole, and tapped it down firmly until it filled the hole. Then took a jeweler's file and cleaned it up so the DP sight would slide in unobstructed. Also, as reported here, the DP sight had to be lighly filed on the bottom so the dove-tail would line up with the slide sight channel. So, I simply laid the sight flat on a jeweler's file, and ran it up and down, then check the fit. I did a little at a time so as not to over do it. Since the DP sight came with the screw installed, I did not try to back it all the way out to get some blue loctite on it. In stead, I just backed the screw most of the way out, then dropped some loctite in the hole, slid the sight in the slide sight channel, then locked it down with the set screw. The set screw bottomed-out so I know it made firm contact with the lead insert. I'll have to keep a close eye on it and check it often at the range today. I may go back and file the hole with some JB Weld. Here is the interesting part, my friend that is the local Tango guru said his DP sight had the set screw in the middle of the sight, not at the end. So, I am wondering if I got some old stock. I'll confirm later today when we are "tuning the Tanfo."

Regarding installation of the DP FO front sight, I've read here where there were some fitment issues (loose fit, wrong size set screw...). But that seemed to be early-on when DP first released their FO sight. I plan to install it this evening and will report back here if the issue still exists.

Thanks for the input and advice. Here I was thinking that it would be better to polish before the first time out. But, as it turns out, it is better to run a few hundred round through it first so that you can see the initial wear points - then polish.

I know some guys that follow this routine on their STIs.

My new Witness Elite Limited in .40 S&W will be here tomorrow and you know what that means – heading to the range on Saturday. I’m new to the Tanfo world, but shot a Para P16/45 in USPSA Limited back in the day (late 90’s) and recently, a Glock 22 (this is my first season back in USPSA). I plan to install the DP FO front sight so I can zero the gun on Saturday. Then, I’ll have time to tune/polish (I have a friend that will “school” me on this) before my next match the following Saturday. I’d like to polish first, then zero the gun, but too many schedule conflicts. Anything else I need to do to the gun (maybe a little oil is the right spots) before going hot on Saturday?

I'm shooting a slightly modified Glock 22 with just the basic "make it shoot better" mods (sights, trigger, mag well, barrel,...). So, now I have to shoot better. Currently USPSA limited major C-level shooter, senior. Also just started reloading again so I can cut cost and customize my rounds.

Just getting back into USPSA after a 15 year hiatus. Things have certainly changed - back then there were basically 3 classes - Open, Limited, and Single Stack - and no Steel Challenge or Falling Steel. Certainly like all the different types of competitive shooting now. I live near Quantico so basically I can (and do) shoot every weekend.