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robert.a.brewer.

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Posts posted by robert.a.brewer.

  1. Did anyone ever get a CMore Slideride onto their TSO?

     

    CZC makes a mount to fit the TSO slide, but I don't think a Slideride will fit that mount. Maybe it could after a couple drilled and tapped holes into the mount?

     

    Any opinions on whether I should forget the Slideride?

    Should I switch to the RTS2 or the STS2?

     

  2. I did use a Dawson blast sheild. Got to take a ball end mill and put a concave radius on the underside of the overhang above the thumbrest. 
     
    Offsets the CMore .225"
    Broncman,
    Where is the blast shield?
    Where exactly did you mill the radius and why?
    And why does the mount require an offset?
    There is so much I don't know about CMore optics mounting.
  3. I didn't receive the screws yet, they may have been delivered but I've been out of the office.

    I ordered the other factory options they had, it was like 3 other factory options. About $45 a piece and I felt like experimenting. I will make sure to post them in this thread

    Sent from my SM-N950U1 using Tapatalk

    I am interested in the 3 other factory thumb rests. Please let us know how you like them.

    I find the one that came with the TSO to be OK. I like the position and the angle, but wish it was wider.

    So, mounting the thumb rest on top of an optic mount will make it a bit wider.
  4. Rowdy,

    Way back in the first post, you say you beveled off the pin on the end of the stainless steel guide rod.

    Why?

    (sorry if it was already explained; lots of posts here and admittedly, didn't read em all)

  5. On my drive to work, as I crest the hill, there is a traffic light about 3/4 of a mile up the road. I can see the light if it is Red, but I don't see it if it's Green. Not sure what this means for my shooting.

    Studies say Green is brighter. Some even make a case for Orange. Shooting environment obviously plays a big role as far as contrasting background colors, as well as brightness of the day.

    Shooting glasses with interchangeable lenses and a prescription insert, bought as a kit, seem to make the most sense for me. Pricey initially, but worth it in the long run.

     

     

     

     

  6. better quality   ss   pin  has tendency  to have small bend after  many rounds .
    don't use it after this. as long ss  pin is straight  it will not make any damage to the gun parts.
    broken ss during shooting can make damage to the gun.
    if u use original cz  ss  change them every 5k. and after few years u will have nice collection .[emoji6]
    [emoji846]
  7. Does a stronger, more durable, slide stop cause more wear to other parts of the gun?

     

    Put another way, does the slide stop take the punishment instead of, perhaps, the barrel lug? So then, could a stronger slide stop cause premature barrel breakage?

  8. check all cz  broken  ss  and u will see that starting breakage  point is rear (close to mag. ) and not  from front side.  => impact from recoil  much stronger than  forward  impact.
    ss has complex forces in 4 different  vector directions  not only back and forward .
    cz  use  wrong tech .producing this part. 
    u can always take ss from tanfoglio  that made it correct. they have few types: one fit sh1 and other for ts
    Yigal, please, which Tanfo ss will fit my TSO?

    Do you have a part number for the correct ss?
  9.  
    CZs have more contour, so they're harder than a 1911
    Very true. What has gotten lost for me in this checkering process is that it's easier on straight flat surfaces.

    The first checkering video I found was on a 1911 build. It never felt right using it in this CZ thread.
    1911s are straight; real guns have curves, lol.

    So, I've swung from the simple no-risk add grip tape over the waffle checkering, to seriously considering the intricate, painstakingly laborious filing of sharp aggressive diamond points.

    It's good I can shoot my TSO while I ponder a grip improvement strategy for my TS. Albeit, this may take several hundred rounds.


  10. many pro. gunsmiths done this all the time. make it perfect  it's very hard   work.
    i done this to all my old guns. including cz 75 from 1986.
    When finished, how preserve and protect the bare metal so will not rust?

    Recommendations?
  11. I still can't believe people can do that by  hand. It looks so simple, but I'd be so scared of messing up a row.

    And a messed up row becomes very visible on the overall pattern. Like lint on a herringbone pattern jacket.

     

    I'd be interested in what jig Atlas finds that fits a CZ frame.

     

  12. Watching hand checkering makes me wonder if I could just hand file the existing waffle pattern into sharper pyramids.

    One guy cut every other line resulting in a 10 LPI very aggressive pattern. I see 60 and 90 degree files used for deepening and sharpening.

    I am continuously amazed by modern gunsmithing methods and tools. Gotta like new tools, lol.



  13. I prefer the OEM trigger shape. The little hook on the end gives me a landmark,. It helps me know exactly where my finger is placed on the trigger.

    Not just that, but I prefer the plastic OEM trigger.

    I thought I wanted to replace my plastic trigger due to it "flexing". After I adjusted the post-travel, there was no more trigger flex feel when I fired. Since the trigger stops as soon as the pistol fires, I no longer had a tendency to keep pulling and "flex" the trigger.   I adjusted the pre-travel as well, and got to like the trigger as is.

    Plus, the adjustment screws tend to stay put, and not loosen and back out in a plastic trigger. So no need for thread locker. 

    The trigger bar pin is also tighter in the plastic trigger; an interference fit, so to speak.

    And finally, I am not yet quite ready to completely take my TSO down to the trigger replacement level. I really like this gun and it's too new to risk messing it up, lol.

    But, as yigal says, other triggers can look better, different colors and all.


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