anonymouscuban
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Posts posted by anonymouscuban
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Some POV video of my 2nd match. Had my first last month. I'm pretty happy with how I did. My goals for this match were to move faster and get my reloads done on the move. I did that. Far from perfect but much better than last match.
Few things my inexperienced eyes see that I need to work on. First, I need to keep my gun up during large transitions. I'm bringing it down. Still need to move faster. My reloads need to be cleaner. And I need to keep my composure when things don't go as plan. I completely choked on the stage with all the steel and I let it get to me and it only made it worse. I can shoot those steel targets at that distance all day long but the pressure got to me and I got frustrated.
Would love to hear feedback from you all.
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First match was last month. I placed 80th of 97 competitors. My goal was not to be DQ'd so I was pretty happy with how i did. That said, so much to learn. But boy did I have fun!
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How different are the drills in Anderson's Refinement and Repetition book from Stoegers Dry Fire Training book?
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I saw this video by Rob while binge watching YouTube videos. Gonna have to try it out. Seems like a great drill. Similar to Bill Drill but may be better to identify ones limits.
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Yeah. I bought some of those 1/3 scale targets as well.I bought some 1/3 scale from bsproshop. Then just traced around them onto the never ending stream of amazon boxes my wife supplies.
Glue paper on first to make no-shoots. Lay a piece of paper and spray paint black for hard cover. i literally have 40-50.
I am probably going to make a stencil for 1/2 scale target as well.
So I used the cardboard, full sized targets I made in the OP the other day at the range. I didn't have any cardboard handy to make more but I had a roll of the paper used to line floors when painting. I made a few from it. Worked out pretty well.
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6 hours ago, bimmer1980 said:
Do you really shoot that way? With both elbows down?
You need to do your dryfire like you would shooting live. As perfect as you can.
If so, i would change the stance and your grip/elbow position. It´s pretty easy to change those things as a beginner as you didnt do 10K repetitions.
Speed is good!
Hey Bimmer. Yeah. That's the way I shoot. Can you elaborate a bit more on what you see odd about my elbows? I've taken several shooting classes and no one has ever given me any feedback on my elbow placement. Would be helpful if you can share some visual aids of what you mean.
EDIT... I think what you're noticing is that my elbows are not locked. Interesting, when I first started shooting, I would lock my elbows out. I was instructed by a few different people to not lock my elbows. I have seen arguments for both sides of this coin and they each argue for the same reason... recoil control. Elbow locked camp say that it allows for a firmer grip, thus keeping the gun from flipping up as much. The elbows bent camp argue that the less rigid elbows allow for some recoil absorption.
As a new guy, I don't know who to listen to so I do whats most comfortable/natural. With elbows locked, I was felt so tensed up. But it was back when I less experienced so I was generally very tense when I shot.
Any advice is much appreciated.
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OK. I watched the videos at quarter speed and I can see what you mean. I also noticed that my start position, I have my right hand resting further back than my left. Probably compensating for the holster position. I will move it further forward a bit. I think I still have plenty of room to stay within the Production rule for holster position.Yes.. Position your holster and pistol so when your hands and arms are hanging at there natural position and when you raise your hands to grab the gun it's automatic, no unnecessary movement.. Straight up..
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Move it more forward, toward my hip bone?Re-position your holster, You are reaching back to grab the gun, this is causing unnecessary movement.
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Hey guys.
So I've been working my draw to first shot. I posted a video several weeks back and got great feedback. Mainly to reduce unnecessary movement. Also to start prepping the trigger earlier. After a few weeks of dry fire and live fire practice, my draw has gotten much faster.
Below are two videos. The first I have the par time set to 1.3 seconds. The second video I have it set to 1 second.
I still see a bit of movement in my head, specifically when I punch the gun out. Not sure if this is normal or stil should be improved. No matter what I try I can't seem to rid that movement when I speed up my draw. Not sure if you guys see anything else I can do to improve it.
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Thanks Brian. I will be sure to do this drill next time I am at the range.Yes.
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Is BE still responding to with the 2nd part of this drill?
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This topic is very relevant right now for me. I don't know if I'm doing this right or wrong.
When I'm at home, dry firing indoors, I'm able to remain very focused on my front sight. Transitioning from one target to another, I shift my sight to the next target and I can see a very clean sight picture. This change a bit when I go live fire practice.
Today was the first time I was able to train at an outdoor range in 3 weeks. I've been dry firing daily so I was excited to see the results. I was getting my shots on target at 7 and 10 yards, doing transitions but my front sight was more of a blur. Focus was more on target. Again, hitting my shots but not getting that clean sight picture I get in dry fire. I slowed down and then I see it.
So... should I slow down to get that clean sight picture if I am able to make the shot faster with not so great of a sight picture at shorter distances, 10 yards and under?
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I plan to do the same with shipping boxes.I do that with shipping boxes that I receive, making targets in all sizes (full to 1/6 scale, steel, etc) and use them for dry fire or sometimes live fire at the range.
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Hey all.
So I had some time to kill and a huge TV box to break down for recycle. Asked myself, "Why not make some targets out of that thing?"
So after a couple of minutes of Googling and about an hour of my time, I was able to make a reusable stencil and 6 targets out of this I had laying around and the TV box I was gonna throw away.
Here's how:
1. Download the official dimensions of an IPSC target.
2. Marked up a piece of 20"x30" foam core to the required dimensions and then used a straight edge and utility knife to cut it out.
3. Cut the TV box in half and traced out the outline of the stencil onto the cardboard box pieces.
4. Used a straight edge and utility knife to cut out the targets along the lines I traced out.
5. Profit!!
Now that I have the stencil, I can reuse boxes I get from deliveries to make targets.
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Good point. I will start incorporating some drills to practice stages where the start requires you to immediately move towards the first target array. I can get a pretty consistent grip on my stationary draw and even when facing up range and turning but I have practiced much with drawing while on the move. Will work on it.Most of the classifiers are where you need stationary speed from the holster and quick hits on targets.
As you probably noticed even from your first match, most stages will have space to move to engage the first targets or required movement such as turning from up range before the first target is engaged.
Practicing for speed from the holster to first hit is great for dryfire and improving reaction to the beep, but be sure to integrate getting a solid grip and draw while on the move to the arrays.
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Thanks for posting the video. Been drilling daily in dry fire and one of the things I've been checking is my NPA with my eyes closed.
Getting your NPA where you want the gun to be when you fire.
What I mean is I draw with eyes closed, then open to see if my sights are on target. It's amazing what just a couple of weeks of daily, 30 minute dry fire sessions have done for this. Gonna test everything this Sunday in live fire.
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I've been working on drills where I'm moving in different directions to develop more awareness of where my muzzle is pointed.I hate to be the 180 police around here, but there's no need to have your muzzle pointed almost directly to the side like that when moving right to left.
Make it easy on the RO and don't let yourself get anywhere near the 180.
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10 minutes ago, HoMiE said:
Good drill if your not allowed to rapid fire at indoor range is 50/50 drill. Basically you load one round and drop mag, fire first shot from low ready, Call your shot and dry fire second shot. That way you can fire second shot as soon as you see acceptable sight picture with out the bang. Rinse, repeat as necessary.
Nice. Why didn't I think of that. Very helpful indeed. Also would help to diagnose any flinching. Fortunately, I think I've exorcised that demon out of me a while back. LOL
BTW... Your avatar is creepy AF!!!
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On 2/2/2019 at 3:38 PM, j1b said:
Thank you for making this post. I love reading/hearing about people's first matches. The game is so addictive, fun, healthy, and good.
My couple of comments ....
I agree taking a class now is a good option. Do some research though. GM does not mean good teacher. GM also does not mean a good match shooter. The classification system for USPSA is really pretty good but there are some flaws. I'll point to myself. In open class I am a GM (I used to shoot a lot back in the day) but rest assured I am not a GM. Not even close. Some guys can just teach well and they are the names you'd expect .... Leatham, Barnhart, Jarrett ... all good places to start. Having a GM in front of your name speaks little to teaching ability and likely only tells a small part of the story in terms of match shooting.
You have some good foundational thoughts. Don't lose sight of them. Accuracy and "error free work" are the keys to success in the game. That gets much harder the faster you go so keep that in mind.
Personally I rarely think "if I'm not shooting I'm not scoring" (though I have much respect for Steve Anderson). For me, stage strategy is all around two things. Is that I'm doing the most efficient way for a shooting of my skill level to execute? And ... Execute the plan. The best plan executed poorly does no good. A plan that is not executable by the skill of the shooter is also worthless IMO. But being efficient is critical to success IMO.
For the shoes ... I honestly don't care. I used to wear cleats. I don't anymore. A good pair of shoes with good traction. Period. My caution on this point is the equipment race. Yes, you should look to get every advantage you can but it's been my experience that improving the shooter is way more successful than improving the equipment.
Again, I loved your post and appreciate you putting it up. Nice first stage btw! I am on the other side of the scale. I've shot a few matches. But have also had a LONG layoff. Just yesterday I registered for Area 7 and I felt, while reading your post, like I'm exactly where you were. Big steps, new experiences, and playing a game that is just fun as hell. Whether it's your first match or your 500th one thing I know for sure is that the nerves never really go away and for a guy like me who hasn't shot in 100 years ... a new match on the horizon is exactly the same as a first match for a guy just starting out.
Cheers!Jack
Jack,
Thank for taking the time with such a thoughtful reply. Great information but also helps to encourage me. It's always nice to get affirmation from the community you are entering.
I've played sports most of my life so I know all to well about the gear rabbit hole. I know that gear can be important, but my experience with other sports is that it really isn't appreciable until your skill level gets to a certain point. Sure, there are some core pieces of equipment that are important from the start, but a lot of it doesn't matter till you're trying to shave off fractions off seconds and not minutes from your time. LOL. That said, after watching that fall, it really just spooked me. That's the reason I asked about footwear. To be honest, I'm pretty sure footed. Living in Southern California, I've done all the board sports since a kid which require pretty good balance.
I am definitely going to look for a good training class, even if I have to travel somewhere to do it. May not be in the next few weeks but will happen this year. Just need for find a good class that works with schedule and budgeting. I am really focused now on drilling stuff in dry fire. Trying not to boil the ocean though. Really just focusing on 2 things from my first match that, if I can improve, will make the greatest impact on my performance. Those things are exits and entries (with reload in between) and target transitions. The former is what I think will shave the most time off my runs. I noticed I was really slow to get out of the box. And once I got to the other side, I was also really slow to start engaging targets. Also, I need to make it a habit to start my reload as soon as I exit.
The target transitions is the other area I found myself slowing down. I knew this was a weak point going in. I have done most of my live fire training at an indoor range where I just wasn't sure how to practice transition. Especially that they have rules against rapid fire. Fortunately, I know the staff pretty well and talked to them last week. They agreed that provided they aren't full, they will let me practice my follow-ups. They just don't want to have to deal with the noobs following my lead or complaining that I'm allowed to and they are not. I totally get. Also though, I finally found an outdoor range, that isn't too far, that allows me to perform action shooting. They have a member only range, on a first come/serve basis, that you get to yourself and can setup targets, run and gun, draw, etc.
Lastly, I've committed to doing at least 15 minutes of some type of dry fire training everyday. Goal is to do 30 minutes. So far, I've stuck to it and have been doing even up to an hour each day since my match. Drawing, reloads, transtions, entries/exits and combos of all of the above. I went to do the indoor range yesterday and can already see improvement in my splits and transitions.
Man... all this talk is making me Jones for another match. Can't wait till next month. I will definitely share the results with you all. I appreciate all the help and encouragement from everyone!!!
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Hey all. I found a 1/3 scale printable target online. I printed off a few and used them at the indoor range today. Setup at 10 feet to simulate 10 yards. Worked well for doing double drills.
Thought I'd share with you all.
http://www.waltinpa.com/targets/USPSA%20Target%20-%20One%20Third.pdf
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Wow. This is a great thread. I'm just starting out and watching my videos, this is my lowest of the low hanging fruit to improve. Lots of great tips and info. Took notes and will start running many of the drills mentioned tomorrow.
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Thanks perttime.
I think you are on the right track. However, I'd try to stay away from the idea of shooting fast or slow. Instead, I'd focus on seeing just enough. See fast: find the target, see enough to put your bullets on that target, or on the A/C zones.
What exactly you need to see depends on the target: how far it is, awkward position, possibly also any hard cover or N/S targets.
Last season, I got my best percentages at stages that had tight shots, and it was obvious to me that I had to take my time to get the hits. Longer distance and/or N/S targets. My worst were when I just thought I could hit those targets when I saw them, but rushed so that I didn't see my sights on those targets. I did just OK on targets where seeing the shape of my gun on the target was enough.
Not wasting time when not shooting is an obvious place for improvement. I can scoot when there is some distance to cover - but I take a long time to get the first shot when I arrive.
So I shot my first match a week ago. I did better than I thought. Lots of room for improvement though. Some of the things I realized from doing my first match are on par with your reply.
1. I think I focused way too much time trying to perfect my draw and getting that first hit as fast as possible. Although important, I would have been better spending time getting more efficient at other stuff that is done more often in a match that the draw. Hell, two of the stages we didn't even draw from the holster.
2. Moving faster between target arrays. Now, I knew I was moving slow. I did so purposely because I didn't want to have any safety violations and get a DQ. But I also saw that I need to practice running and stopping, shooting efficiently and safely with a gun in my hand. I've done it but I need to get to where I'm not thinking so much about it.
3. Reloads. Reloads. Reloads. Fortunately, I had the frame of mind to execute all my reloads as preplanned for each stage. But I notice in video that they were sloppy, I was bringing my gun down too low and I was waiting too long to start my reload. I would start almost as I was approaching the next array rather than right after completing the last.
4. Knowing what type of sight picture I need for the target type and distance. I realized that for full targets at sub 10 feet, all I really need is to see the muzzle indexed at what I'm shooting. At about 10 yards, one I see that front sight between the rear posts, I am good. Then there is everything else that I need to focus a bit more.
Plenty of other stuff but that's my focus in training now in the order that I think will improve my score based on countless watching of my match videos. Really looking forward to practicing and see the results at my next match in a few weeks.
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Hey. Thanks for the info. Are you shooting next months match?I’m from SoCal as well and shot the same swpl match that you did. California tactical academy in piru hosts a large majority of the classes pertaining to competition shooting.
Most of the guys, including myself, run soloman trail running shoes. They really help with the terrain that we shoot in.
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Thanks for clarifying. Helps to know these details. I asked a couple of guys how the scoring works and they said they weren't sure. That its complicated. I guess I'm a weirdo that likes to know as much as possible about anything I find worth doing.
Close, but let's be more accurate here.
A basic Mike will set you back 15 points, not 20. It's 5 points that you could have made with an A and 10 points penalty. However, a basic no shoot will set you back 25 points - you will get "Mike No Shoot," where you lose potential 5 for alpha, another 10 for Mike and another 10 for No Shoot. If you make up the shot and avoid Mike, you will be down just 10 - you got your hits with the make up shot, but are still penalized for No Shoot.
Also, there is a "Failure to Shoot at a Target" procedural penalty that you can incur if you don't send at least one round towards the target. So, if you skip a target you will get two Mikes (15 each) and additional 10 points for not engaging it.
It gets a bit more complicated if you do the math on Virginia count stages (classifiers), where people can trade some of the penalties for a slightly better score.
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How did you do at your first match?
in USPSA/IPSC Shooting
Posted
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