anonymouscuban
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Posts posted by anonymouscuban
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Well, with all this reloading on my mind, I completely goofed and missed my local club's match last Sunday. I thought it was this coming Sunday. DOH!!! So I'm going to do the match on the 6th out in Prado Olympic Shooting Park. I've heard good things about the matches they host. Push myself out of the familiar and shoot somewhere different. Should be fun.
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Wow, that’s great, I can’t see 250 yards. [emoji2957]
You guys think that's impressive, I failed to mention that I can do it while standing on one leg holding the pistol weak hand.
Now that is impressive.
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Now can I hit 3” groups in a match at 25 yards? So far the answer is no and I’m happy to be on paper with close Cs, but does that mean we can disregard the requirement to be in the A zone for any group shooting at that distance? No. Therefore, it is my opinion, and I believe others, when developing a load it has to be accurate at 25 so as a shooter I will know where the shot will hit.
I shot a major major match last year where almost every stage had a 20+ yard shot, many were partials, no shoots and mini poppers. Yes it was tough, and I had more than my share of mikes. So since then 25 yard practice and groups are part of every practice session.
But to each his/her own.
Just to be clear. I can shoot 3" groups at 250 yards with a pistol. And anytime I don't, it's for sure the fault of load inaccuracy. [emoji57]
I dont know why you feel personally attacked by the shooting (in)ability of myself (new shooter to the sport) or my comment to the OP (another new to the sport).
Is a more accurate load better? Yeah. Do you need to be able to shoot less than 3" groups at 25 yards to develop a good load? No. Do you need to shoot that well to participate in matches? No. Should we strive for the best accuracy we can have? Yeah.
Sure it would be great if we could all shoot groups in the zeros with our handguns and any deviation was on the load, but it's not realistic. Someday I may be able to shoot 3" groups at 25 yards(maybe, I've seen a lot of guns not shoot that well from a rest, but I sure hear about it a lot on the internet). In the meantime, for the 20,000 rounds it will take me to get there, I'll work up loads based on power factor and check for acceptable accuracy so that I can get some match experience.
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29 minutes ago, Stymie12000 said:
I'm loading for a new gen 5 glock 34. I have many 147RN blue on hand for my pcc. I'm running into short oal with the 147 and the glock due to the short throat. To pass plunk test, I need to load the 147 to under 1.100" which doesn't leave much case volume and I would like a little more.
Does anyone have experience the 135 with the TC nose? Mainly, can you load it with more case volume than the 147RN in same barrel? How does the 135 preform vs the 147? Recoil impulse? BTW I'm loading with Sport Pistol for the Gen 5 glock.
Thanks
I am brand new to reloading so base what I'm about to say on that but I just loaded 250 of the 135 TC and 147 FP for my CZ SP-01. I was able to load with an OAL of 1.150 no problem. I fired 100 rounds with no feed issues. Plunk tested fine. This is the first set of bullets I've loaded but I have read that CZ also must load short for the round nose BBs.
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I will beat a dead horse here... Find a local match and do it already!!
I shot my first match this past January. I wanted to do it the year before but kept putting it off. Wanted to get better. What a waste of time. I had everything I need to compete the year before when it came to skill and that was being safe with my gun. Muzzle awareness, trigger discipline, etc. You really just need to get out there and shoot a match.
I also don't know anyone that competes. Hell, I don't know anyone that shoots pistols more than a couple of times a year. I called the match director the week before to get the low down and let him know I was going. Showed up a little early. Told them I was new. They had me wait a sign ups and paired me up with a guy. We then joined a squad. Everyone was extremely helpful, accommodating and encouraging. Hell, even the one guy that was sort of a dick was really positive towards me, gave me tips and encouraged me. I left that day totally hooked and have become friends with the guy I was paired up with.
We go practice together. He's been shooting UPSA since the late 80's and has been a tremendous help to me and my progress of becoming a Jedi Practical Shooter.
I guarantee you will have the same experience as me. If you don't, I will buy you a hamburger next time I go up to Northern California. And hell, if you do start to compete, I'd love to shoot a match up there with you when I go to visit my daughter. She lives in North Sac.
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Yup. That's what I was thinking.Also may want to check the trigger bar spring....
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RGC. Here is an animation of the DA and SA action. It almost seems like the trigger bar is not engaging. No expert here so let's wait for the guys that know more than me.
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Here is RGC video guys. Hopefully one of you guys can help.Anyone able to help with this?
Reached out to CGW, they stated to reset the trigger adjustment screw but thats not it at all.
Sent a video to them of the issue but no response....and I would like to get this resolved...
Not sure if its internal (all internals replaced with CGW goods) or hammer issue...
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Can you share the video you sent to them?Anyone able to help with this?
Reached out to CGW, they stated to reset the trigger adjustment screw but thats not it at all.
Sent a video to them of the issue but no response....and I would like to get this resolved...
Not sure if its internal (all internals replaced with CGW goods) or hammer issue...
If you need help posting the video, loadef up to YouTube and then send me the link in a PM. I can share here.
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Thanks for the load data and the advice. As to all of you, thank you for sharing what you know. All very helpful.I have used TG now in 9 and 40 for tens of thousands of rounds and not once has our fiber melted or even gave the appearance of melting. This tale is probably from some TG hater that wanted to be different than the crowd (who use TG).
With that being stated here’s what I noticed about TG.
For the lead exposed bases of PD FMJRN 147s the nose of my gun is covered with black after hundreds of rounds. Fully covered bases like Everglades 124 FMJHPRN and PD 180 FMJHP (40 SW) leaves a light brown residue that easily wipes off.
I ran some testing of Sport Pistol and yes it does run cleaner than TG, but the powder is not quite as dense so it fills the case a bit more. As soon as my TG is gone I’m switching to SP (I purchased a bunch from Powder Valley last month).
For the OP, you’re getting a bunch of great advice and a lot of opinions, so filter them out, choose a bullet and a powder you like, load away and don’t look back. It’s about the shooting and not rocket science. Have fun.
Here’s what makes 130+ PF for us:
Stock 2 and CZ Shadow 2
PD FMJRN 147, 3.5 gr TG 1.14 OAL
ACME 147 FP, 3.2 gr TG 1.14 OAL
ACME 147 FP, 3.3 gr SP 1.14 OAL (slightly higher PF this was most accurate at 25 yards with SP)
Everglades 124 FMJHPRN 4.2 TG 1.13 OAL. (I really like the cycling of this load over the 147s)
Range brass not sorted
Chrono with Federal, WSP and CCI primers, all were comparable and SD for all loads average slightly less than 10.
Accuracy goal is 25 yards, less than 3” groups from freestyle hand held and no bench rest. All these loads achieve that.
I wanted to load my own bullets so I can shoot more. Although I want to do this correctly, I'm not really interested it trying a lot of different components and recipes. My goal starting out is to find a load that shoots well enough in my gun for the sport. And then just reproduce that load consistently for a while.
I only shoot one caliber, that's 9mm. I don't see that changing for a while. Maybe if I move divisions to say limited in the future but I don't see that happening until I reach A classification in Production. It may be a bit lofty, but I set my goal to hit A class by the end of this year. My first year. I think I can do it but it will take a lot of practice and matches and that's gonna take a lot of rounds.
As mentioned, I worked up some loads of blue bullets with tightgroup, WSP and mixed range brass. 125, 135 and 147. The loads that shot the best and were between 135 and 140 PF were 3.7, 3.5 and 3.2 respectively. I worked up the rest of the samples I got, about 200 rounds in each bullet weight to these respect loads. I will shoot the rest of these in practice on Friday and then determine the weight bullet I will order in bulk. Right now, I'm leaning towards the 147gr, 3.2gr TG, 1.15 OAL.
I worked out some of the kinks that I had in my first runs of loading. I added some LED lights so I can see a lot better. I staying hyper focused when reloading. Got a good routine of visually looking inside each case as place the bullet to check powder. I am consistent with seating the primer correctly and doing a "wobble" test with every round once I load a batch. I'm also not rushing the process. I'm very confident of the recent rounds I've made.
Learned a lot since making this post. Thanks to all of you. I'm excited to be able to shoot more because of my ability to make my own rounds and a reasonable price. I live in California and we have some new laws that take effect in July that will make buying ammo more expensive and will require a background check with every purchase. Wasn't looking forward to that. Reloading just made sense and its almost a necessity for us here in The Peoples Republic of Kalifornia.
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Another question...
I was given some of this powder. It's old but was stored well. The container is unopened. I opened it and it smells fine. No odd chemical smell. Seems to not be fouled based on what I read on the interwebz on how to check if powder is good.
Can this stuff be used for 9mm loads. All the load data I can find for "Unique" is for the brand Aliant. This is labeled Hercules. Not sure if it's the same stuff, just a company name change.
I was given about 10 pounds of this stuff.
I also got a pound of 3n37. Still sealed.
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Yup. Already! And it was a wakeup call for me. I didn't take it lightly. Made me realize how much attention to detail this endeavor requires. I will definitely be much more careful moving forward.You've loaded a squib already? Please be very careful and dedicate your full attention when you are reloading. Look inside every single case before placing a bullet and check the powder hopper often. Finally at this point of your reloading adventure, clear the entire shell plate if you have any issues or need to stop for any reason. Later on you can learn to clear just the malfunction and keep loading the rest.
I dont want to hear about anything happening to you or your gun!
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Gotcha. And makes perfect sense and it's what I was thinking. But being so new at this, I wanted to make sure I wasn't doing anything wrong. All the bullets i made, with the exception of the squib, chambered and fired well out of my gun. No FTEs and the gun cycled nicely.It all depends on the bullets ogive. Even two bullets with the same general construction can/will have different ogives.
Assume all the bullets below are RNFP 147's, see how the ogive changes slightly.
That small difference might make the bullet hit the rifling sooner.
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Hey guys. Seems like the more I do this, the more questions I have. So there are quite a number of you that shoot CZ in 9mm. I have noticed many posts on reloading for CZ and stated COL values are much shorter than one I'm loading. I see values below 1.10 quoted in posts. So far, seems like 1.15 loads nicely for the bullet profiles I have loaded thus far. Is that it? The bullet profile?
I'm loading truncated flat nose projectiles. Is it that others are loading a different profile like round nose?
I just want to make sure I'm not missing something.
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Important thing is lesson learned with out any major catastrophic event. we have all been there..powder check station is good to have a as well. if your press allows for it.
GL
That's the worse part. I have a powder check. But to be honest, the first set of rounds I loaded, I was so overwhelmed with trying to watch each station I was forgetting to look at the powder check. I then stopped trying to run multiple rounds at a time and just did one at a time for the next hundred just to get the hang of it.I have had exactly one squib but it was in a match. As you described above, it also occurred very early on in my reloading endeavors and was entirely d/t my learning curve. I learned to reload and reload only, no multi tasking, and look for powder in each and every case as I place a bullet.
Lite strikes are usually a result of not seating fulling but with a gun tuned somewhat for competition they can also be a result of the weaker main spring used to lower the DA pull if the primer is harder. That's why lots of guys, especially competition revolver guys & DA/SA Production guys, used Federal SPP exclusively. Were the lite strikes on the DA pull or the SA pull? The DA pull doesn't cock the hammer as far as the SA and it will impact with less force. For me this is where a lite strike will occur in cold weather. When it's time to replace springs d/t use the lite strikes can start occurring more often because the spring is weaker. I use mainly Winchester SPP and usually everything is good to go with them. I have polished my DA/SA action but I haven't lowered the main spring because I want it to always fire and I'm not married to Federal SPP. In the past, the lite strikes I did experience were with the Winchester SPP but it was only on the DA pull and only in cold weather. Nowadays, I'll load my Barney round with a Federal primer and everything else is primed with WInchester. I don't have tons of Federal primers but I can always find Winchester SPP for a deal so this works for me. When reloading, every so often I'll load a sleeve or two of Federal primers and they go in a different bag for my Barnys. BTW: I use predominately Winchester SPP but, besides Federal, I have also used CCI, Magtech, Fiocchi, & Remington. Every one of these have worked just fine in a DA/SA gun that is tweaked but not tweaked too much. The only failed primers I have ever experienced, that won't go off at all, even with repeated hits and in another gun, were Remington primers.
Also, does your SP-01 have an extended firing pin? If not, an extended firing pin might help overcome some primer striking reliability issues that a tweaked DA pull might bring on.
The like strikes happen all on SA pulls. And all fired on a second pull. I think one of them required 3 pulls which adds to the suspicion that it's a primer seating issue. I'm guessing the couple of strikes pushed the primer in a bit.
I am running an extended firing pin and the reduced power firing pin spring as well.I had same problem couple years ago - installed a light, and now
(horse is out of the barn), I LOOK into Every Case before I seat
the bullet - can't get into trouble that way. [emoji4]
I'm running over to Wally World right now to pick up some LED light strips to add to the press. Also gonna see if I can find a small mirror. Gonna do everything I can for this to be my last squib. Really scared the crap out of me.
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Thanks guys. You're probably right about the primer not seating correctly. It was probably some of the first few rounds I made and I wasn't really quite sure how much pressure I needed on the lever to really get a good seat. I later realized that I could check primer seating by setting the case on a flat surface to see if it wobbles at all. I found a few. I should have went back through all the rounds I made to check them but didn't really think it was that crucial. Now I know. I guess this is all part of the learning process. Again, just glad I learned my lesson and still have all my fingers.
Grump... I'm definitely going to see if I can fashion something together. Are there any mirror setups sold or is this going to be DIY?
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Went to the range today to live fire practice and to run some of the test rounds I made through the chrono. Did the chrono first. Went well. No issues. Then I shifted to doing some transition drills. Decided to use some of the rounds I had left from the test ones I made. About 30 rounds in, "floop"... that's the sound I heard. Luckily, I had the frame of mind to not fire the next shot. Sure enough, squib stuck in the barrel.
Walked over to the reload shop and removed it from the barrel. Inspecting it with the older man that owns the range and works the reload shop, he thinks there was no powder at all in the round. Just the primer is what went off and jammed the round just barely into the barrel.
It's kind of made me a little nervous. I went back up and finished my transition drills. Still had some rounds left that I made and forced myself to shoot those even though I was a little nervous about it. All fired well except for a couple of light primer strikes. Which brings up a different issue.
I'm running WSP primers. My SP-01 is tuned with a Pro Package. I've run thousands of rounds through of various manufacturers and have never had a light primer strike. Thinking about it, I don't think I've ever shot Winchester ammo. Do other manufacturers not run Winchester primers? Should I move to Federal primers? Every round that had the light strike fired off on a second trigger pull. Not sure if this matters.
Long story short. I really need to pay more attention and remove all distractions when I'm reloading. Fortunate that this experience ended as well as it could so don't want to test my luck.
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I agree with the others. As for building grip strength, most weight training will do that. Especially things like pull-ups and dead lifts. Farmer carries are real good as well. Basically any exercise that requires you to carry a heavy load. Avoid using straps or other grip aides.
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Ok cool. I have the Reach Reduction kit already installed.The Reach Reduction kit will move the DA static reset point a little further back. The double action pull will Definetly be lighter and smoother than stock.
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3 minutes ago, himurax13 said:
Your actual reset should be shortened by a mm or so but the static reset position of your trigger will be noticeably reduced.
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Reset position in SA only or will impact DA?
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OK guys.
Tell me about the FPB delete. How would the action in my pistol improve? Will the improvement in reset be appreciable considering the upgrades I list below?
I have an SP-01 manual safety model with the following upgraded parts:
- Short Reset Kit
- Reach Reduction Kit
- Reduced Power Trigger Return Spring
- Floating Trigger Pin
- Race Hammer - without the adjustable sear (arrives tomorrow)
- All internals have been smoothed/polished
NOTE: I understand that I either need the pre-B sear or add a spacer to the existing sear in place of the lifter arm.
Just gathering information to see if this is something I want to consider. I will probably run the gun a bit with the new hammer before deciding.
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Well, I am back from the range with all fingers and my gun didn't blow up! All rounds ignited, properly cycled the gun and had no issues ejecting the spent cases. Overall, I would call it a success!
So again, no chrono yet so just plinked the 60 rounds I developed. 20 of each of the loads below...
0
147gr Blue Bullet FP
3.2gr tightgroup
WSP
1.150 COL
135gr Blue Bullet TC
3.5gr Tightgroup
WSP
1.148 COL
125gr Blue Bullet TC
3.7gr Tightgroup
WSP
1.162
It was hard to tell which load I preferred because I had to shoot my PCR. Just before leaving for the range, I dropped the guide rod of my SP-01 and it must have slid under the refrigerator because I couldn't find it. It's a huge Sub Zero so that things lost to the abyss. Good excuse to order a stainless guide rod. YAY!
That said, the 147 seemed softest and most accurate. Nice groups at 20 yards. No fliers. I wasn't shooting from a rest so hard to tell if the others were less accurate due to me. But if I shoot the 147 better, guess that's a moot point.
Now, onto a couple of questions about case head stamps and COL variances.
1. How anal should I be about variances in COL from round to round? Should I only care that they all chamber or are within the max COL? I'm not seeing huge variances. For example, the 135gr batch... 1.143 to 1.149 COL.
2. Do I need to separate my brass by head stamp? I started to do that and it's a royal pain in the butt. Will it reduce variance in COL? Is that why you separate cases? How critical is this step?
Thanks again for all the help guys.
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Thanks for the sanity check. I guess seeing some of the load data posted around the net was setting some false expectations as far as accuracy of measure for me. What you explain totally makes sense. And its not like I'm trying to hit a fly at 1000 yards.
No affordable scales measure to the hundredth of a grain. What you have is sufficient. Everything we do can be assumed to be +/-0.1gr and this it doesnt make a ton of sense to try to determine our precise load by throwing a bunch of charges and then averaging them.
Most powder drops throw +/-0.1gr with most powders. The fact that yours only threw 3.6 and 3.7 means you're throwing more precisely than that. So your powder measure is doing fine.
Your digital scale effectively rounds your charge weight. That means the 3.6gr will display but the charge weight is actually somewhere between 3.55gr and 3.64gr (see why the sticker says +/-0.1gr?). It will read 3.7gr on the display if the charge is between 3.65gr and 3.74gr. 3.64gr and 3.65gr are incredibly close together yet read different numbers. 0.01gr of powder is very likely less than 5 tiny kernels. Oh and the load cell performance likely varies with temperature, battery voltage or wall power fluctuations, tiny air currents (these aren't enclosed lab scales), florescent lighting etc. So a known check weight placed on the scale could display different results at different times!
All of this explanation to say that what you have is fine. In the beginning it's a bit hard not to hyper focus on being ultra precise. The instruments we have just aren't capable of being that precise with certainty.
If you want to be very consistent when working up loads for the chrono we can talk about trickling powder to try and eek some extra precision out of the scale.
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Oh. And after only 20 rounds, I know I want a case feeder! Not coordinated enough to hand feed the case and the bullet, pull the handle and watch the powder cop. Hahaha
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CZ Tuning 101 with Professor Atlas
in CZ
Posted
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