Dwbsig
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Posts posted by Dwbsig
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I’ve had good luck with w-231,red dot and sport pistol with 200 gr swc.and 225 gr flat point acme’s.
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2 hours ago, PhotoRecon said:
On 9mm with coated I use .379" to avoid damaging the coating....377" on jacketed...
I do the same as you ,I have used .380 with no problem but .379 is what I usually do for coated bullets.
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On 4/24/2020 at 11:05 AM, jburks said:
i'm very much debating getting the kit from the OP. They offer a $36 refund if you send them your old trigger parts so that would drop the kit price down to around $80 which really isn't that bad.
Please let us know how it works for you. I’m very interested also I have about a three and half pound trigger with the spring kit installed but would like to get the reset and over travel taken care of. 80 bucks is not bad if It’s a good trigger.
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I would crab the the tool head and move it from side to side to see if there is any movement between the shaft and shaft body-fram,those two parts are the most expensive. The rest of the parts can be replaced. You will find a lot of movement in the handle I would doubt there would be much wear on the handle shaft and bearings those parts are sloppy by design.
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On 4/19/2020 at 7:58 PM, jrdoran said:
The magpul stock is estimated at 21oz; How does that compare to the ruger stock ( minus the hand guard ) ? I'm embarassed to say I never weighed the factory plastic stock. The butt plate / spacers / and rubber pad are surprisingly heavy, but their placement against your body makes them have negligible effect.
https://magpul.com/ruger-pc-carbine-backpacker-stock.html
I just weighed my ruger stock and forearm, it came out to be 33oz on my old mechanical scales which could be off a ounce or two. It looks like the Magpul stock could be a good wt reducer. That’s right at 3/4 of a pound less. That would put my Ruger at 6 lbs.
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6 hours ago, jburks said:
That's good to know. To be honest i actually dont mind the factory trigger, i just wish it had a shorter reset and a little bit more tactile feel to it. it's a little to soft/mushy for me.
I'm with you the trigger has a long reset,if I am shooting my 2011 and start shooting my ruger I get messed up with the reset it needs fixing. I tried one of the after market triggers and it helped with the over travel but the reset is what gives me more of a problem. I don't know if I want to spend two hundred bucks to fix it.
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I started loading 9mm about twenty years ago seating and crimping with the same die never had any problems accuracy was good using jacketed bullets never used lead seat and crimp with one die. I have been using seat and crimp with separate dies for the last tens years ,if I was using jacket bullets only I wouldn't hesitate on using the seat and crimp die.
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Just hung mine off the wall very ridged.
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I really like mine it's very accurate and reliable I would like more info on the spacer for the trigger over travel.
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3 hours ago, Nuncles said:
In my limited experience, Shooter's World CS has very similar ES and SD to Sport Pistol. I will say however, that I was using a different chrono with CS than I usually use. It may not matter but thought it should be stated. I can give more feedback when I have shot more of it (only about 300 rounds so far).
I'm trying CS because I was getting a fine dust on my press with Sport Pistol. Dillon powder hopper on a 650. Anyone else getting a fine dust on their Dillon press with Sport Pistol? I have talked to some who get it and some who don't. I find it quite strange. I REALLY like the powder but I load inside a spare bedroom and want to keep the powder spillage as minimal as possible.
Yes I have used about fifteen pounds of sport pistol and it does leave a fine dust on my press but I have not noticed any dust past my press on anything else. I got some aa#2 and its just as accurate and it does not leave any dust on the press.
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5 hours ago, zzt said:
About 10' really is okay. One foot either way will only add or subtract 6fps according to ballistic calculators. The real problem is flight path. If you consistently aim at the same spot when chronoing, you get a valid SD. However, you do not necessarily know the actual velocity. Any bullet path that is not directly down the long axis and parallel to the sensors is longer. Since it is longer it takes more time to cross both sensors, resulting in a lower reported velocity. The more off the correct path, the slower the velocity reported. It varies by a surprising amount, and that may be why a lot of you are using more powder than others.
I rediscovered this while chronoing at my home club. One of the pistol lanes is set up for accuracy testing with a Ransom rest. Removing the rest leaves a solid pedestal. I placed an 8' plank between the shooting table and the pedestal, set the chrono at the far end and wooden rests. The height of the rest was set so that placing the bottom of the frame directly on the rest, the bullet path was correct. This worked perfectly. I had 6' between the muzzle and the first screen, and it was simple to correct to 10'.
One day I was testing a batch of ammo that should have been identical to the previous batches. It wasn't. WTH? Why are these slower? Well, my frame mount had loosened. Instead of hitting where I was aiming at 25 yards they were 9" right and 12" high. That accounted for the lost velocity. So I decided to test. With the mount tightened and everything set up properly. I shot a string while intentionally aiming along a line from 2" left to 2" right. Velocity was lower and SD was higher. So even seemingly small variations make a difference.
As I mentioned earlier, I do chrono at 10' for PF, because I want to know what to expect at the chrono station at a major match.
Thanks for this information very informative I always thought some the things you talked about had and influence on the numbers. I thought it was probably insignificant but you have shed some light on the subject.
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Not the same bullet but I use 147 r/n brazos at 1.115 in shadow 2 .
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I have never had a upside down primer in my 1050 yet hope it don’t start lol. But I load my tubes by hand. A couple things I do different is I put a 45acp case on my assist rod and I never tighten the knurled nut just slightly snug.
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4 hours ago, Colin said:
New Guy here,
Just started loading for Steel Challenge and after a couple thousand rounds I have settled on 125g Blue Bullets TC (9mm) over 3.8g Sport Pistol. This load has been reliable and a joy to shoot in all my pistols. I think maybe this is not news to a lot of you guys.
What did surprise me, was switching from CCI to WSP primers. Here are my chrono data for the above load with different primers. 2 guns (G17 and CZ P-01), 10 shots each run, listed in order of data collection:
WSP, G17, 1037 fps, 23 ES, 7.4 SD
WSP, CZP01, 1002 fps, 20 ES, 6.8 SD
CCI, G17, 1043 fps, 45 ES, 16.2 SD
CCI, CZP01, 1004 fps, 60 ES, 15.7 SD
WSP, CZP01, 992 fps, 25 ES, 9.6 SD
WSP, G17, 1037 fps, 31 ES, 9.2 SD
CCI, G17, 1045 fps, 43 ES, 13.0 SD
CCI, G17, 1065 fps, 65 ES, 17.3 AS
I know it's a little overkill, but I was quite surprised to see the improved SD with the WSP primers. I've always liked the CCI primers cuz they're easier to get in the pickup tubes, but I think I've convinced myself to switch over to WSP primers. Is this unusual, or have I just rediscovered the wheel?
What you got is normal pick a different powder with the same basic load and you may have the opposite of what you got. Lol
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I tumble clean in corn cob or walnut with any auto wax, before sizing I use lanolin and alcohol spray I put my rifle cases in fifty round tray and spray on a 45 degree angle so that I get lube inside the neck this really helps your case neck when coming over the expander ball. I have a concentricity gage that I have used on my sized brass and this is the best method that I have found to keep the necks straight. After sizing I trim and work my primer pockets then tumble with corn/walnut for about thirty mins before loading.
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Looks nice Memphis.Thinking about doing a wall mount for mine but it rarely messes up.
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It’s normal your can improve it if you want to sort your brass to the same head stamp but it’s just not going to make a big difference unless you are trying to shoot bullseye.
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9 hours ago, JOHNNYGLOCK said:
Thanks for the data! Was this knowledge obtained with a loading program such as “quick load” or something you have experienced personally?
I’ve been playing with AA 7 in my open gun a couple months backs. I just ran some loads over my chronograph last week, some of the loads I ran over the chrono was with power pistol Thur my Ruger Pcc with a 16” barrel. These was some old stuff that I had was just curious what they would do Thur the rifle. The rifle seems to be running 150-200 FPS faster then my pistol.
124 gr jhp P.D. 1.135 oal 5.4 grs power Pistol 1256 FPS.
124 gr r/n 1.15 oal. 6.0 grs power Pistol 1379 FPS.
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AA#7 is a good one for for you wanting ,the eight grain load is a +p load at the oal your loading at. The 7.5 grain load should be giving you the velocity you wanting pending the barrel length. The pcc’s will be giving you 1300-1400 with your 7.5 gr load. Power pistol is also a good powder for high vel.
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I measure every bullet while setting my die, once set I may check one about every 100 rods. Plus or minus .005 is good enough for me.
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I had a clamp on light that was not being used so attached it to the primer tube bracket. Maybe not as nice but it works fine lol.
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I just loaded about three hundred on my 1050 zero malfunctions love my 1050. I was having a screw up about every two-three hundred rounds. Hadn’t cleaned my machine in a year so I done that a couple days ago and that has solved the screw up issue lol.
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2 hours ago, Intheshaw1 said:
I don't think the Acme one works anymore, tried to use it last month but it didn't work.
Yeah I tired it a couple days ago and it’s dead.
105gr loads
in Pistol Caliber Carbine
Posted
Are you running coated lead or jacket bullets I have some 95gr r/n coated bullets on order to try out. I’m shooting 115 s right now with 3.4 grs of aa#2 with very good results just like to experiment lol.