nikdanja
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Posts posted by nikdanja
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23 hours ago, MikeyScuba said:
I went with a Uniquetek floating tool head in my 650. Took the no pass rate from 8% to 1%. Even those 1% practice rounds still shoot fine.
Where did you buy that from? I’m not similar with that product.
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I shoot a .401 Polly bullet and for years the bullets have always been giving me problems, Redding factory crimp die sucks so please don’t suggest this. I’ve tried it and it blows. I’m looking at a legit competition die that will seat the bullet perfectly straight more consistently.
I have dillon dies now and they are doing the job but I’m tired of whistling money by having bullets be off center and therefor not case gusting properly.
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We’ve all been there. Shot a great stage and here comes a guy that’s been stuck in B class for the past 2 years telling me I could save time by doing this, this and this.
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5 hours ago, Hi-Power Jack said:
Could the barrel be either leaded up or shot out ?
Who makes the plated bullet ? Many plated bullets are known for causing accuracy problems.
I’m using xtreme bullets for plating. I just talked to Adam from Atlas where I bought the gun from and he seems to think it’s a barrel issue also if I get top quality bullets and it still tumbling. Really disappointed in the barrel but maybe I got one from a bad batch. Of course it’s gojng to happen right as the season gets going!
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I use 2 different bullets and always have for the last 2 years.
The first bullet is a molly Coates bullet that i use for loacal matches and practice sessions. I’ve used this bullet for years and I’ve shot at least 30k rounds and they all have flown great. Diameter is .401
the second bullet is a plated bullet that I use for major matches and the diameter is .400. Once again I’ve shot thousands of these bullets and they have always worked fine.
Now all of a sudden I’m having tumbling issues. 1 out of 150 with the molly bullets will tumble and 1 out of 20 of the played bullets will tumble. WTF? I checked my crimp and it’s barley vizable. You can tell a small distinct ring around the bullet so it’s not due to over crimping.
I havent changed my powder charge and everything has staged has stayed the same for years. I’m just now having this problem.
Its a KKM barrel with around 30k rounds.
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How high or low does the hit factor have to be to send a make up after a called Charlie?
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I’m using coated bullets.
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Got it all set up and it’s rough getting the case into the die but when it’s in it’s smooth, just like it should be. When I go to bring the case out of the die, I meet the same resistance that I had going into the die. I even put some case lube on some cases and still had the same problem.
Is this normal?
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19 minutes ago, Flatland Shooter said:
What lube are you using? Running it wet or dry? What's the temperature out when you are having problems.
The easiest and least expensive thing to try is a different lube and run the bolt wet.
I use ballistol and run it very wet. When I go to put it back in the safe it only had 50 rounds thru it.
Temp. In the room where my safe is around 70 degrees.
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I have a WOA barrel with a low mass BCG from AIM surplus.
When the rifle is clean and stored away and I come back to it days/weeks later I can cycle the bolt with ease.
When its dirty, the bolt sticks almost like it’s glued to the inside of the barrel until I force it open. The first couple times it happened I thought it was odd cause I only put a couple hundred rounds thru it and didn’t think it was to dirty. I did it just now after only shooting 50 rounds since the last cleaning and now it’s something internally.
Once again, it doesn’t do this when the rifle is completely clean.
Ive always shot my hand loads which I don’t think are any more dirty than good factory ammo. I’m using CFE 223 and 748 pushing a 55gr bullet just under 3000fps. I’ve tuned the gas system and even when cleaning nothing looks abnormal on the bolt or from what I can see from the barrel.
Any thoughts?
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I shoot mostly Uspsa in the Philly area. There’s lower providence uspsa
new holland uspsa
west shore uspsa
ountelaunee Uspsa.
These will keep you busy.
If you you don’t want to share a cell with some guy named pookie, Stay away from old bridge like the guy mentioned in the top post. Also your guns will instantly rust once you cross the bridge.
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19 minutes ago, MJinPA said:
As the great and wise nikdanja once told me "buy once cry once".
Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkWill this catapult me into GM status and uspsa glory?
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i want To buy a bullet feeder and noticed that there’s a bit of a price gap between the ones that are out there. I like the hornady one cause it’s $350 bucks but don’t know if that’s better than a DAA. What’s some reviews that you guys have?
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On 12/15/2017 at 11:55 PM, Descartian said:
I'm looking at a STI 2011 longslide build with a 5 chamber 7 port comp.
My smith has come back saying that there are feeding issues with the 40 Super and 2011 frames. Most likely magazine related.
Ive seen quite a few older STI's in 40S that supposedly run fine.
Any trick to get them running reliably?
Why
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5.7 of WSF 180gr xtreme hp gets me 168-170
1.185-1.190
Atlas Titan
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I have an edge that has a lightened slide and I want to make it a designated steel gun.
What bullet and spring weight do you guys use?
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55 minutes ago, EaZeNuTZ33 said:
Bulk 55gr rifle ammo for hoser ammo. Downloading rifle ammo results in the comp being less effective and very little gain.
I don’t bother getting M193 or hotter 55gr ammo as the velocity gets higher in my 18” guns and can beat up steel on my range when practicing.
Then how do you know when you have the perfect load?
How will you know if the load is to light, just right, or to over powered?
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How light do you guys make your rifle ammo?
Just getting into the 3 gun game and have all the bells and wissles on my gun, but didn’t know if you guys make bunny fart loads for the courses that are really close and save your match grade ammo for the longer 200+ courses?
Is is there advantages for making bunny fart loads to lessen recoil as much as possible?
Yes i I have an adjustable gas block, light weight bcg and a taccom buffer.
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7 hours ago, Racinready300ex said:
Could be your seating die not seating the bullets straight. So you'll get rubbing on one side when you case gauge. I had this problem, only with 40 and went from a LEE seating die to a Hornady. It's working much better now.
Was it just a basic hornady die?
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7 hours ago, Racinready300ex said:
Could be your seating die not seating the bullets straight. So you'll get rubbing on one side when you case gauge. I had this problem, only with 40 and went from a LEE seating die to a Hornady. It's working much better now.
Was it just a basic hornady die?
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10 hours ago, bowenbuilt said:
Sounds like the body of your seating die is turned into the tool head too deep and is starting to crimp the bullet before the bullet comes to a stop when seating. Run your seating die up about a quarter inch and readjust the seating stem deeper into the die. This should cure the extra material being pushed up in front of the case mouth.
If I move the seating die then my OAL will be off
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8 minutes ago, Ken6PPC said:
If the case is flared enough, it won't shave lead. If it is shaving lead, you need to flare it more.
Try flaring it more than you think you need to.
Your seating stem does need to be reasonably matched to the profile of your bullets, but it would have to be pretty badly mismatched to seat a bullet out of concentricity as much as you are describing. I always modify my seating stems as required to match the bullet I am using.
Are you using round nose bullets, flat nose bullets, or something else? What is the shape of your seater stem?
Im using a round nose and my seater system does match the profile of the bullet. Tomorrow I’ll try flaring more
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25 minutes ago, Ken6PPC said:
If you are shaving lead, you need more flare. Nothing else causes shaving.
If you increase the amount of flare, and then just crimp enough to take that flare out, your problems will go away.
Nope. Didn’t work. Same problems and I flared it pretty good too.
Im shaving lead right above where the case ends and the bullet starts. It’s almost like if I took a file out and removed material from the one side of the bullet that’s not perfectly straight, then it would fit in the guage no problem. Which is essentially what I’m doing by working the bullet in and out of the guage.
Well, I dunno if straight is the right word because I don’t know what the problem is or how to fix it. I’m assuming the problem lies in my seater die but don’t want to spend $918274782 on different dies trying to fix the problem.
Hoping someone one had the same problem as me and can help out.
Will getting a Redding comp. die help with concentricity and actually make my bullets case guage?
in 10mm/40 Caliber
Posted
This sounds like a good idea! I’ll triy this out.