loaded605
-
Posts
85 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Forums
Profiles
Events
Store
Posts posted by loaded605
-
-
5 minutes ago, B_RAD said:
Are your springs for the +5 base pads longer? Did the TTI base pads come with springs or did you buy TTI springs? I ask because it's my understanding that the extended base pads need longer/extra power springs.
Also, what's your OAL on your ammo? Is too long? It's not a load set up longer for a 2011 is it?..
Also, also, I'd think the stock recoil spring is too much. What guide rod and spring were you running? I like a Jager and wolf 11# for all my Glocks. Even 40 SW. First guess I think it's not a spring problem.. the reason it may happen more with the lighter spring is because it's underpowered to correct whatever other problem you have.
Will it run 100% with stock mags, springs and base pads?
I've tried it with both the TTI springs and the stock mag springs. Happens with both.
OAL is 1.125.
Stock recoil spring. I have tried a 15# spring on a SS guide rod but it happened more often.
-
I've tried it with both the TTI springs and the stock mag springs. Happens with both.
OAL is 1.125.
Stock recoil spring. I have tried a 15# spring on a SS guide rod but it happened more often.
-
I frequently have issues with rounds not coming from the magazine to be fed. The nose of the bullet isn't even to the feedramp and it will jam. All that is required is a yank on the slide but I can't figure out what's going on.
Running a G35 with TTI +5 basepads.
Recoil spring is stock. Lighter spring caused it to happen more.
Started with the TTI mag springs but thought those might be part of the problem, switched to stock mag springs, doesn't seem to have helped or hurt it.
I've tried an ETS mag 140mm and it fails less than the Glock mags with TTI extensions.
Ammo is handloaded, 5.9gr of CFE Pistol with 180gr blue bullets. (If it matters)
I'm super frustrated after my gun went down a bunch in a match yesterday after working perfect for the first two matches. Not sure what the deal is. Any suggestions welcome.
-
Gen 3 to Gen 5 is a pretty big difference, as the OP referenced.
I totally missed the Gen 3 part. Yes, huge difference. I would jump.
-
I shot a gen 5 for the first time today. Not enough difference for me but the ambi slide stop is nice for lefties like me.
-
I have a redeye, the 24 will hang out a little but it works, probably not good for 3 gun.
Totally forgot the OP said 24. It will definitely poke out. I have used mine for 3-gun. I use thumb screws to lock it in tight. -
SJC sells one that works with it. Hard to find on their website. Red Eye Tactical makes it. http://www.redeyetacticalgear.com/sjc-frame-weight-competition-holster/
A guy I met last weekend uses a Ghost but had to file a little bit to make it work. -
I have run 9mm mags in my 35 (conversion barrel) for 3-gun for two years. The only hiccup is that a couple of them won’t lock the slide when empty, but no malfunctions.
I tried one 40 cal to test it out. It has yet to fail me. I’ve tried to make it choke by not cleaning after dropping in soggy gravel and not cleaning, just brush out. At this cost and reliability I’m done buying $62 Glock mags and extensions when a $17 mag will do the job.
I have run stock mags with TTI extensions for limited (yes, the pins poke out a little, less if you drill a hole in the plastic well) and they work great.
I will say that I bought a Ruger PC Carbine and ETS mags will choke it to death. Maybe one or two shots then a malfunction.
-
I’m right handed and left eye dominant and shoot everything left handed.
Big advantage loading I think loading “weak hand” quads with my dominant hand was easy to pick up. I thought about getting a left handed shotgun but the bolt release is still on the right side with a lefty M2 or Franchi.
I talked to Benelli reps at Pheasant Fest this year and asked why no true lefty guns. Main reason was completely redesigned trigger would price it infeasibly. -
Dawson. I run them on both my 34 and 35. Very happy with them. I don’t think you’ll regret adjustable rear, though. Didn’t need it with my 35 but my 34 hits a tad low for my liking. Gonna upgrade the rear on that one.
-
After resizing I tumble wet or dry. Sort through them with a caliper for the ones that need trimming and don't. Then get to trimming.
-
I run 55gr FMJ's w/ 19.5 grs of 335 through an 18" Nordic barrel(1:8 twist; rifle-length gas) without issues. Take off the tin foil hats and shoot the damn ammo. End of thread.
19.5? Haha! I'm sure your gun runs fine on that pistol load you are running, but I bet lightened internals, buffer, spring, BCG are what makes the difference. So someone "might" have an issue. -
this is one of my concern, maybe Dan and Steve can mentioned their gas system, Thanks
btw, using a standard BCM BCG and Vltor A5 system with 6.3oz buffer, although a have a reserved A5 buffer ( H0) 3.9oz. .
Lighter buffer/spring would also help if cycling became became a problem. I took the cheap route with slower powder because my barrel is heavy and lighter internals probably wouldn't help recoil enough to justify cost. If you lighten all the internals you may need to add an adjustable gas block too, if you are getting too much gas. -
You might have trouble with the rifle cycling reliably, depending on other setup on your rifle. I have a rifle length gas system on my 18" barrel. There isn't much barrel left after the gas port in this case. H335 burns faster and didn't build enough pressure. I use W748 or CFE223 for my 55 gr bullets in that rifle. Benchmark gave me the same problem.
If you have a lightened BCG it would perhaps alleviate the issue I had.
I figured this out while prairie dog hunting. My H335 and Benchmark loads quit cycling all the way after about 20-30 rounds. Manually cycled the action until I ran out of that ammo, about 150 rounds total. Stuck in a mag that had 748 and it returned to function. -
My favorite powder for .223 has been IMR4198 since back in the early 80's. Pain in the butt to get consistent charge weights though.
Recently went to the range with my nephew to sight in his new AR15. Long bull barrel thing from Stag Arms with a 4 X16 scope on it. He bought Remington and Winchester ammo for it. We sighted in at 25 yds. and then moved to 100 (longest distance at the range I belong to) to get the BDC set up on his scope. I handed him a magazine with my reloads in it to shoot after he got it sighted in. When we were done he was looking at his targets. Which targets did he keep? The ones with the tightest groups. Which ones were those? My IMR4198 powder reloads with 55 grain Hornady FMJ bullets.
Having said that, I recently ran across another load that seems to approach the accuracy of that load in my rifles, if not equal it. That load used the same bullet but with BLC2 powder. BLC2 is much more consistent dropping out of a powder measure. I bought a big jug of it to speed up my .223 reloading.
We've tried H322, H335 (my youngest son likes this powder and it's all he uses), Win 748, IMR4895, TAC and CFE223. Best accuracy overall has been with the IMR4198 and BLC2 in my rifles. I got decent accuracy from TAC, but the most accurate load would not cycle my 20" rifle. Worked fine in the 16" carbine with a mid-length gas system, just not in the rifle length gas systems. I'm going to retry the CFE223 as my accuracy issues might have been the bullets, not the powder.
Neither load (IMR4198 or BLC2) is a max pressure/powder load. Best accuracy, in my experience, comes around 150 to 200 fps slower than the max loads.
I've bought some heavy match bullets to test in the faster twist rifles we have but haven't gotten around to working up loads with them yet.
I had a falling out with CFE223 also. It was me, not the powder I later found out. -
Meh. Seems like it's best suited for prairie dogs and coyotes.
-
Depends on your rifle. Out to 200 yards won't really be affected by powder type as much as powder weight for that powder with that bullet with that rifle.
Powder choice depends on gas system, somewhat, and bullet weight. I lean towards the slower burning 223 powders, anything in the range of 4895 up to CFE223 or 748. I use CFE223. Reason I shoot slow powder is because I have an 18 inch barrel with a rifle length gas system. It only has pressure until the bullet exits the muzzle, which in that barrel is not long enough for fast burning powders.
I used faster powders with my old rifle, but that was carbine length gas so the pressure stayed in the barrel longer. Also had more recoil. Those H335 and Benchmark loads won't reliably cycle in my current rifle. They probably would with a lighter BCG, but it's cheaper and simpler, and just as accurate, to adjust the powder.
Powders listed above are good too. I wouldn't bother with heavier bullets (69 or 77 gr) unless you will be shooting at 250+ regularly. 55 gr will suffice at 200 for steel.
My load for 55 FMJ is 27gr CFE223, Rem 7 1/2 primer, COL 2.215.
Have fun working them up! -
No, it isn't hyper critical as long as they are all under max length after resizing. I still prefer mine to be close in length, and I make sure mine are between 1.750 and 1.740.
-
I got frustrated trying to make it work. I do it in separate steps.
-
Most of the 100 cases I measured were from 1.730 to 1.745 range. They were all resized ready to reload. Brass is a mix of LC, FC, R-P and Win.
Trimming the case has anything to do with OAL. OAL depends on how far you seat the bullet in the case.
My die sucks, need new one. If case lengths are same, they seat the same. If varied, they don't. I know it makes no sense, it is just how it works.
I have no idea how in 15 years you never have resized cases that measure over 1.750. This is one of a bunch of cases I got at the range yesterday from a buddy. They were new Independence (federal) with primer sealant (which is gone after tumbling). Still can see factory crimp.
This was a different new Federal case, same guy different ammo, didn't see the box. He doesn't reload but this could have been reman. Still... It is 1.747 before resizing.
Most LC range brass, not all, that I have found is reman and twice fired, no annealing or crimp. Most once fired R-P is usually has factory crimp on the neck and usually measures around 1.760, at least for me. Your caliper may vary.
-
And there are so many variables to accuracy it will make your head spin if you are just starting out. Not only the gun, but the rest, as you mentioned. When checking groups I like to use sandbags and make the rifle totally stable so that all I am really doing is pulling the trigger. I also use a bag for the stock to stabilize it.
Were you shooting with a scope or irons? -
I don't get it,
I have shot .223 range brass for 15 years or so. I have never trimmed. Ever. Once in a while when I get bored I will measure some brass and find that
almost all of it measures less than 1.750.
How do you trim brass to 1.750 when it is too short to do that?
Curious?
Just went and measured 100 cases with my calipers. Four were long enough to trim to 1.750. Much of this brass I have shot a few times.
I don't get it?
If you measure it before resizing it will be shorter. Resizing, if done properly, case stretches it and it will be longer and would need trimming. I don't trim cases that are long enough, obviously. I don't have a progressive for .223 so I am single staging them. I have some that are short... I still use them if they are at least 1.740 but I load them separately with all the cases that are shorter so OAL stays consistent.
Some guys neck size, I don't and never would for ammo going to the match chambers on my AR and M1A. -
How many times can you trim ? Before throwing the brass out.
For my 3 gun fmj, I just keep shooting them until they crack a neck or there is some sort of noticeable problem. -
After resizing. I trim everything to 1.750.
Glock 35 Feed Problem
in Glock
Posted
Have not tried just a completely stock mag. Will do that today.