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Posts posted by anbrumm
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How far south are you? Sparta puts on some great matches.
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Signed up, can't wait for another great match.
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I'd have to agree with most here. I think it is probably up to the MD if they would let the person shoot for no score. If they aren't holding up the shooting I wouldn't see the harm as I am assuming it would be a kid or girlfriend/wife. It wouldn't hurt to be able to show someone good safe gun handling.
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Might also try tumbling in corn cob/walnut after to remove the lube.
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I bought my DAA Alpha-X holster last year on Black Friday. I believe the % off was scaled based on how much you spent.
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This is a costly solution, but ran across it the other day and thought it was pretty cool.
https://lvl10i.com/collections/all-products/products/650xl-primer-assembly-removal-install-socket
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I went ahead and bought one with the sale they were running in September. I currently don't have any cases that need swaging, but I did use the decapper on a short ~150 run of 40 brass. It worked well. I think that I will keep using it as my primary decapper until I have a need to use the swage die.
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6 minutes ago, Steve RA said:
Unless the original post has been changed, I can't tell what he handled.
I believe he typo'd and meant to put hand loaded as the last word of the sentence.
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3 hours ago, The Donald said:
I'm in the same boat, I never liked the Dillon Super Swager. What is kind of funny is their website says they have been around for years and I never heard of them. I go to quite a few reloading forums. From the pictures the parts look very nicely machined.
I believe these dies are just recently produced. I think they have been working on the for the last few months.
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Has anyone had any experience with the Mighty Armory decapping or swaging dies? The swaging on a single stage intrigues me rather than the Dillon Swager. Just curious if anyone has used these products.
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I'm running 1.16 OAL so take that into consideration, but I am using 4.65 gr. of WST and 180 gr. Black Bullets coated bullet. Just went 169.9 PF at a major a few weeks ago.
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I have Dillon dies for 9mm, but shortly I will be ordering the EGW U-Die as I have a lot that are failing to plunk. They all have a slight bulge on the bottom of the case where it is not getting resized.
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I have no clue what would cause that, but I think a lot of responses you will get here is to contact the builder and see what they say.
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1 hour ago, mlm said:
One thing I noticed on the second video, after you loaded pistol, your finger went into the trigger area. I may not have seen that right, but if you are, stop doing that on LAMR. Gun goes bang and you are out of there. Be a trip to DQ land. Do not want to see that.
Mike
He is shooting production with a hammer fired gun. He has to drop the hammer on the gun before starting. You can see his left hand lowering the hammer when he pulls the trigger.
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Either way, I would say it is worth it. If you ever plan to start reloading save all the brass you can. I am kicking myself because a year ago I thought I would never reload 223 as I didn't have a press I could do it on. A few months pass by and I got a good deal on a 650. Now I am kicking myself for selling 1500 pieces of 223 brass.
If nothing else, as others have said, you can always sell it in the classifieds brass section, or send it in to a company that offers a credit program.
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I went to a local audiologist and got molded earplugs made. It cost 160 total out the door. They have a filter that deadens loud noises, but still allow you to hear normally otherwise. So far they have been fantastic. I was interested to see how they were going to work as they are not electronic, but I have no complaints.
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The range you shot at on 4/15 takes about 2 weeks to get the scores into USPSA. I would bet that the next update (Next Wednesday) will show your scores.
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Also, talking to squad mates is a good way to find out of other matches.
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You can also join StLouisShooters. The forum is not very active, but they have a match calendar with local matches on it. Helps you figure out what clubs have matches in the area.
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I pushed the par time down to .7 seconds tonight and practiced the reloads a little more. The second set of reloads are 25% of the original speed. It took the sound out of the clip, but couldn't get it back in.
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4 hours ago, MemphisMechanic said:
I've never shot anything but Production. Assisting (flicking the mag off to the side) has never been necessary with a Glock, M&P, or a Tanfoglio. It's just something you felt was helpful.
This is exactly right, it was something that was pointed out to me when I was shooting production as actually slowing down my reloads due to it being canted when the mag starts to come out instead of straight up and down. It is definitely not something that was helpful.
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I've used Acme coated 180, and moved to Black Bullets International. After about 1500 of them I am very happy with them, and will continue using BBIs.
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1 hour ago, N3WWN said:
Also B-class Limited here, but it seems that your support hand could move towards the gun more aggressively during the draw.
Try some draws to a target about 3 yards away. You don't need a refined sight picture, but make sure you "see what you need to see" to get alphas on that target. You should be able to do this in about 1.0s, I'm guessing. After your comfortable with that, push the target back a few more yards and try to maintain the draw speed. Any additional time should be in sight refinement alone as the target gets further away.
Also, it may be the camera angle, but you appear to drop and rotate your gun way down and to the right during reloads. Try to keep the gun upright and closer to your firing position. You probably won't need to move your head (nod down) to look the magazine into the gun if the gun was up more. You should be able to watch the mag fall free and look the mag into the gun with your eyes only; if your head is still, you may be able to reaquire the sights faster.
One last thing is that your transitions should be about the same as your splits if the targets are at the same distance (and difficulty). Try starting with the targets touching shoulders until you can achieve similar timing. Then, start spreading them apart and work to keep the times the same. You're already doing Bill Drills and Blake Drills, so just be mindful of the times.
In short +1 what MemphisMechanic said.
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Thanks, I'm going to focus on working on my draw this week in dry fire. I will test out your suggestions in live fire next week. I was consistently at like 1.5-1.8 second first shots at 7-10 yards, and I know this is slower than it should be.
I think the reload thing comes from when I was in Production I would try to assist the mag out. It is something that I never noticed until taking this video. I am going to try to fix that as well!
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You stand up tall and shoot. More bend in the knees and weight more forward. At all times. When you move from Box A to B, you shouldn't be dropping to run then popping up to shoot in that narrow tippy stance in B. Wide low stance that has your head as low as your movement height, always. Weight 50/50 on feet when you enter a box to shoot.
Your draw slows to half speed on distant targets, which is common. Focus on getting that thing up and on the target as fast as possible. No reason to move hands slower - that time needs spent refining sight picture once the gun is up. Really go for breakneck speed on draws in DF for a while. Miss some. Then back down to match pace to finish each session. Use the same aggression getting the gun up at 25yd as at 7.
Your reload has a huge wasted movement: You bring the gun back to an extra position off to the right to dump the mag and then bring it back to centerline and drive it down onto the magazine - making the gun a moving target. Snap it straight back to "magazine insertion" point where you clap your hands and hit the mag button on the way.
Awesome! Thanks for the analysis. I see things I need to work on, but don't always know how to break them down.
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Illinois Guy
in Introduce Yourself
Posted
Welcome Doug, what part of IL are you from?