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Posts posted by Glk21C
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Maryland
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still have these
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still have these
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it's gone
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mods, please close this, it's sold for $0
thanks
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He did, grabbing it later this week
thanks
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@thechef1, I need to wait on @racinready300ex to get back with me, as he is local
thanks
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Hi Mike. 18L x 10W x 15H
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This is my used Tournament Series Shooting Bag Ultra- Blue. Yes, it's faded but it's clean. Pistol sleeve and brass bag included. You have to be local to me for it to be free as I checked shipping and depending where you would live it would be easily $100 to ship it unless you have some crazy discount through your work and can email me a PDF label. I hope someone close to me can give this a good home.
thanks
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It’s also my powder of choice in my open gun
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FYI, Grams Engineering is a one man shop (him) and is busy re-tooling it. Don't be surprised if it takes quite a long time for him to reply. If Beven (that is his first name) does get back to you he will probably ask if the tube is within spec dimensions internally. These are dimensions for a 2011 double stack tube, they might be similar for yours, just trying to help.
The ideal internal width between the control ribs is 0.815” for typ. Reloaded ammo, no narrower than 0.790”, no wider than 0.825” and keep tube square. Too narrow left to right and there is less capacity. Too wide left to right and the rounds can start to stack incorrectly and bind on each other
And if you are saying you messed with his followers by smoothing and chamfering there might be less inclination to help you.
Good luck.
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sounds like the follower is getting caught at the bottom of the control ribs transition at the bottom of the tube? Best thing to do, IMO, is smooth out that transition. I don't use factory guts in my tubes but rather grams but I never have a problem with the follower hanging up at that control ribs transition area. realize grams followers are shorter in height than factory guts so don't think just changing to that will fix your problem.
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Any brand tube that does not have a SMOOTH transition where the bottom of the control ribs meets the lower side walls of the tube will have problems as the rounds travel up and past that transition.
I’ve got some older generation SV tubes where the transition is SMOOTH so there was nothing else for me to do. Gen 1 STI tubes are not smooth at that transition so they need to be corrected. I don’t have newer SV tubes or Gen 2 STI tubes to comment on those. -
Has anyone applied lines in this fashion while painting a stippled 2011 polymer grip/can instruct how to do it? The stippling I did is more aggressive than the picture shown. I was hoping a splatter technique would work with something thin, did not in the testing I did.
Thanks
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try alpha-gorrila or go fast don't suck
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39 minutes ago, CHA-LEE said:
Why not use the existing rib cage slide cuts to put “V” pattern popple holes in the barrel?
that was exactly my thought as well
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I’m sorry but I don’t, I know it can’t be soon enough for him
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Grams’s engineering (Beven) is literally a one man show and he is in the middle of retooling his shop. It is not his preference to limit communications.
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7.4 of 350 behind 124 mgcmj
i originally played around with autocomp, works but did not like as much
IMO you find most vv powders burn clean.
there is a Brazos article about testing powder burn and comps, go to his website and look through the articles section
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10 minutes ago, AverageJoeShooting said:
How does 350 compare to 3n38
In MY GUN I prefer it. Just shoots a little smoother for me
oh, VV105 is another choice of powder
FREE: VV powder (N105 & 3N38)
in Free Stuff
Posted
Thanks, Bill.
This powder is now gone.