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MHitchcock

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Posts posted by MHitchcock

  1. Actually. There is one on the classifieds that may be a good fit for you if it's not gone (someone said they sent PM not that it means anything)...check out the stag 3G he's asking $1250 shipped with a Burris 1-4 with mount that you could sell and be under 1k$. Should be a 1 MOA rifle. Has all the extras already...

    They are $1250 new without optic. He added a JP comp ($100).

    If I have some time later I'll toss together a sample build and throw it in this thread. 

  2. Yeah, it took me 20 minutes of tinkering to figure out what was happening. It started after I put things back together after cleaning under the shell plate. If it is up just a bit more than all the way in (like 1/16 of an inch), it blocks the ram that inserts the shell at the very end of the stroke. This makes the shell only make it 3/4 of the way into the shell plate and it gets crushed. 

  3. I know what your problem is. Mine was doing it as well. And I can see it in your picture.

    Don't know the official name for the part, so excuse me for that. The wire that goes around the center bolt is not fully inserted into the hole near station 1. I can tell by your photo it is too high. When that happens the wire blocks the insertion of the case into station 1. It doesn't get all the way into the shell plate and gets crushed by the u-die. Make sure that wire is down as far as it can go. 

  4. You can build a budget 3 gun AR easily. Lots of YouTube videos on budget builds, and I'm sure on enos through the search button.

    Can get a cheap barrel that should be good for 1-2 MOA (faxon barrels come to mind), a decent trigger, pick an adjustable gas block, a good handguard, and pick a comp that works (miculek/JP etc). The rest is fill in with what you want. Lots of budget receivers available etc. You can easily get one put together under 1k$ that will outshoot any of the factory offerings in that price range. 

     

    ***edit*** also I wouldn't waste $750 on an Ar that you will eventually replace almost everything with. You'll want a different handguard, trigger, stock, and gas system. That already puts you into lots of top end goodies on your *budget* AR. 

     

  5. Before spending money on a different sight. I would try to radius the current mount. It looks like there is a lot of material you could get rid of on the tail of the mount. By removing some material you may be able to get the rounds to clear reliably. Patrick Kelley had to do the same thing with the mount on his vista open gun.

  6. I seem to recall one case more recently where they were told it wouldn't be covered. My memory may be playing tricks on me and I apologize if that's the case. I'll see if I can find it. . .

    In any event, their turn around time for fixing that is months...so even if they stand behind it, why would you spend that kind of money knowing there is a good chance that slide crack will happen? Then you get to be without your expensive open pistol for months. And if what they send back is the same cut, you run the same chance of having it happen again. 

    If it was my $$$, that has to be a consideration in purchase. Hence my suggestion to get a CK or a used custom pistol. 

     

  7. 19 hours ago, Blammo said:

    Why no DVC?

     

    IMO for the money, you are better off getting a CK (or used custom). Already has a lot of what you are going to 'fix' on the DVC (trigger parts, mag well, etc), and has a better fit/finish. Also, the CK will run from the factory, the STI might take some massaging to get there. Several threads regarding the DVC open guns on here if you search. My biggest concern includes slides cracking between the front lightening port and the comp w/ sti refusing to fix under warranty. To each his own though, some people got great running DVC open pistols and haven't had problems as of yet. 

  8. Since you are pretty much building a JP with a different trigger, you could either have them build it or at least thermofit the barrel. Or you could sell the AR gold and get a JP trigger (which are also phenomenal). As an added bonus having JP build it will improve resale value if you ever want to part with it.

     

    ((double posted so I figured I might as well add something of substance))

  9. ^ that too

    I have an SCR-11 that is amazing. Their system SCS/LMOS/Adjustable gas block/comp is just insane. It has less recoil than my M&P 15/22. 

    As said before, a JP-15 would be just as good. Just not side-charged. 

    As far as your question regarding junk vs good quality. There are so many people making forged receivers its impossible to keep track of everything. Look at reviews of one you are considering. If they have receivers with tolerance issues or other problems, someone will have posted something about it somewhere. In general a forged receiver is a forged receiver. All made to the same specs. Quality control is the only difference. 

  10. The RTS2 version 4 board seems to have fixed the problems (which should have been solved before release). I have had 0 issues with mine. Several open shooters locally have had 0 problems with theirs (since the V4 boards). The issue was the battery losing contact during heavy recoil (i.e. open pistols) so the sight would turn off. If the battery loses contact (for any reason) on the new boards, it turns back on at the same brightness setting. This is also how you can check if your RTS2 is V4, turn it on, pull the battery tray, reinsert battery tray. If the sight is back on you have a v4 board. 

    That being said, the DPP is a viable option and there are several people using sliderides in PCC. If I had been an early adopter of the RTS2 before the v4 boards, I am sure I would have a bad taste in my mouth as many people have with them. 

  11. We're all human, we all have bad days. Professionals train to a point where bad days are still within lets say 5% (arbitrary number not important to the point) of their typical peak performance. A normal shooter may have a bad day swing in the 30-50% range. A portion of this is the physical training and skill acquired through that training. The biggest factor is the mental focus. Most of us mere mortals (as pointed out by the paraphrased miculek interview) make a mistake and then make subsequent mistakes trying to fix what happened. A professional shooter has the discipline to focus on the present instead of the mistake one array or stage back. 

  12. In my opinion:

    1. No appreciable difference between a good forged receiver vs billet. 

    2. Forward assist, you may here several arguments on this, but in my opinion, if you have a round that won't chamber, forcing it in would be worse. 

    3. Depends what you are looking for. . .

    TBH as far as receivers are concerned, get a quality forged set (i.e. cheap) if you are just concerned with performance. If you want something else, realize its really a cosmetic upgrade unless you are getting a side charge/dual charge like a JP SCR-11/PSC-11. (keep in mind that JP sells forged receivers i.e. JP-15, and they will tell you there is no difference in performance between the jp-15 and scr/psc accuracy-wise) 

  13. In production I always had a 'contingency plan' for certain stages. Its not that the original stage plan is bad, but things can go wrong. Lets say the last part of the stage is a texas star followed by two steps and 2 paper targets around a barricade. If I only have 0-2 make up shots on the texas star, I can move and finish the stage. If more, I need to reload in those two steps to finish the stage. Going into the star knowing that can save time as the reload is 'planned' if its needed. There are a lot of other situations where taking a make-up shot can change your stage plan in production/SS, knowing ahead of time what you will change if something happens allows you to save time and not make standing reloads. 

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