VforVandetta

I have been buying this stuff like its going out style. Both of my Vepr 12s eat it up. Not a single problem with it in about 600 rounds. It feels a little "hotter" than the old stuff. Bit more recoil and it flies out of my ejection port like the dickens. I would really like to chrono it I sincerely doubt its only 1200. It feels hotter and flies farther than the Suprema 1315. Here's a quick vid of me ammo testing some action work I did for a buddy, where I shoot it along side some others:

That jpoint is pretty cool. I really love my EOtech on my Vepr12. I can not imagine being without that reticle at this point. Also love the EOtech big window. Perfect IMO. That tooth and nail video is really really cool. Super clean run and fun to watch. To the OP I would NOT recommend the trs 25, or a sightmark, etc... Don't waste your time and money. The trs is not nearly bright enough, and has terrible battery life. The sightmark is just not cut out for this line of work. Cheaper micro red dots may also be a gamble. Some are tough, some aren't. I have heard a lot of talk about that holosun. Interested how that one will do. Really you could do just fine with a vortex strikefire until you get something fairly legit. In my opinion I need a circle type reticle, because a lot of time you are dealing with bright glare, or shooting at Orange targets with a red dot. Mentally it just gives you such a great reference point. Also a 1 moa dot with a ring around it is perfect for precise slug shots. My do-all zero is 15 yards dead on with slugs. Puts me 2" high at 25yds, 5 inches high at 50yds, and about 2" low with my shot shell groups. So out to 25 yards everything stays in a nice 4 inch group, which corresponds fairly well with the 65 moa ring in my optic. Hope that helps!

Welp, just wanted to give an update. My rifle is now running 1000% reliable with all types of ammo even the cheapest. Here is what I did: I shelled out for a black rain ordnance adjustable clamp on gas block which I got a good deal on, and a new gas tube. I tested that and found the lowest setting on which it would cycle reliably, which resulted in some very mild and pleasant recoil. All the nose ups, jams, and failure to strips, and failure to ejects were gone. But I was still getting a lot of misfires with tulammo. Good looking primer hits, but no bang. This continued to drive me nuts. I asked around some more and was directed to buy an "enhanced firing pin" which is designed for 7.62x39 ARs...i guess it is a slightly longer pin which punches those hard russian primers a little bit more on the cheap ammo. It was $15 from "Black Rifle Arms" I installed it, and now my rifle works 100%. No malfunctions for 500 rounds now. Not one. I finally love my AR. Thanks for the help everyone! -V

Thanks for the answer yes please post pics.

I'm sure this has been discussed before. I'm asking for a friend who wants to get started in steel match/3 gun/etc...not so much IDPA. Will probably just be shooting practical/factory...Glock 23. I want to recommend a good quick draw holster by Safariland. Level 2 retention open top with a screw is fine. I went straight from a blackhawk serpa to a custom made kydex with a safariland QLS clip. So I have no idea how the hell the safariland ALS's attach to the ELS belt. Is it just a belt slide? I figure since the 2 products are made by the same company there HAS to be a more sturdy attachment, or interface with ELS/QLS clips between the holster and belt.....right? I have spent about an hour just now searching on optics planet, google, youtube, etc..... And I literally wanna take my eye out with a spoon. almost just wanna tell him to go with my same custom kydex guy, but thats a $95 product. I really don't understand why safariland doesnt make this easier. Am i missing something?

No, they didn't loosen when I went to take them off, they were still tight as a mother. Had to torch it a bit to get them off. We tried a SA carrier from another friend, he said it was a $100 BCG. Does Rocksett just have a higher heat tolerance? If I do go with dimpling my barrel, is there a good video on how to do that? or just drill a tiny divot and i'm good? I've worked on guns a bunch, just not A lot of AR stuff. Didn't wanna just go for it if not indicated.

Hey guys, a little newer on this forum, new-ish to ARs, 3 years of firearms experience. I'm going crazy trying to pick out a gas block. The story in a nutshell: I bought my AR from a private seller, it was a DIY build. 18" free float, no name upper, no name lower, no name barrel, un-dimpled, fairly mil spec in general besides the diamondhead forend. I got it for $600. about 500 rounds into it, I developed some FTF problems. Intermittently : wouldn't strip a round, rounds would nose up and jam the bolt, and failure to LRBHO. At first I thought it was weak budget brand tula ammo, So I tried others, and it was fine with Wolf .223 and brass. Then the malfunctions came back. Friends checked it out, and swapped the upper out with a functioning rifle, which worked like a charm. Eventually we noticed on my upper, there was fouling coming from around the gas block, i.e. gas escaping. I removed forend, tightened the block against the undimpled barrel and blu loc tited. 300 rounds no problem. Then malfs returned. Removed forend, REALLY tightened the block, and red loc tited. 400 rounds no problem. Even held up great for the 1st 3 gun match of the season. After the match... problems returned. I am beside myself at this point. Friends are sick of hearing about my rifle. I've heard dimple the barrel/don't dimple.... Get an adjustable gas block/don't get one Clamp on adjustable? Geiselle with bomb proof but non adjustable? If geiselle then carbon steel/stainless/nitrided? I saw a syrac non-adjustable on GB for $75 the other day.... I had a reputable gunsmith tell me adjustable doesn't make a difference unless its a piston AR, and that clamp on is most reliable.... and that he sells clamp on non-adjustables for $45 block plus tube. what...the hell.... should I do? Thanks for any input.

Thanks for the replies fellas. Definetly helpful. I'll try the razor, I'm hoping it won't be too much higher than where my irons "were" it was already shooting .5-1" high at 10yds. Though I guess shooting at the bottom of my targets won't be too much of a hassle. I really would like a larger window on the optic. My RMR is the cheapest one, dual illuminated with 9MOA amber dot. I'm thinking the 6moa razor will be a good middle ground?

Thanks for the reply. I'll probably get to try the razor regardless, one of my sponsors just became a distributor for Vortex. I just wondered..i'm still relatively new to serious pistol shooting... maybe a year and a half. I *think* I like the cowitness, but I'm still having trouble picking up the dot on the draw....I find i'm faster with irons half the time....So I don't know if the cowitness is helping, hurting, or what. Since I lost my front sight, its been about the same or a little harder to pick up the dot. Then again, it seems like it gives my brain "less to think about" So i find myself wondering, "if this is harder, then what is with all the frame mount and non co-witnessed guys..." is it just that much more training involved? I like shooting with the red dot in general for transitions, and i just think its cool. I wanna understand this.

Hey I wanted to ask a couple things. First time poster on here form Ohio. I run an M&P 9mm 5' core with RMR for 3gun/USPSA. Recently my front sight broke off and it has me thinking... I've shot a couple matches without it and seem to be doing ok...but then again I see the frame mounted guys and the C-mores... it makes me ask...how important is co-witness really? big selling point with the cores is they co witness with RMR/Deltapoint.... I have a new Dawson Precision front sight ready to install on it, but just thought i'd ask....I did good at my 3 gun match, but then ran my first USPSA match and keeping a good sight picture was a bit of a challenge. Also, Is anyone running the vortex razor on a core with tall sights? interested in that.