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Lastcat

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Posts posted by Lastcat

  1. My glock rides up like that too but has never kept me from removing the slide.

    Think I figured it out.

    The stock rod end is larger than the Wolff rod end, by .085". Enough that the rod end at the barrel notch, drops. It's a Gen3 rsa for a Gen4. But that is one of the reasons the Gen4's have the larger spring. Which why Gen3 slides will be a problem on a Gen4 frame. The Gen4 RSA center line is farther from the bore axis than the Gen3. Thus causing the rod end to be lower in the notch at the barrel.

    I think the action of the slide and the offset of the guide rod, plus the smaller end, causes the rod to jump out of the notch in the barrel. While this is assembled I noticed too that the spring is sitting on the barrel. Needs a larger end.

    I have looked into a few other Guide Rods, Zev, Jager, etc.. Will call and find out if there are any Guide Rods that are .270 rod dia and .500 rod end diam.

  2. 2sb7ix3.jpg

    Guide Rod keeps jumping out of the notch cut into the barrel. :blink:

    Glock 31 KKM Barrel, Wolff Uncaptured Guide Rod (.270 dia), Carver Gen3 to Gen4 .278 Adapter, Wolff Round Wound Springs. So every once in a while the rod will slip out of the machined notch, that the end sits into. Sometimes I have to slap the end of the slide to get the guide rod to seat again, in order for me to remove the slide, frustrating.

    I am shooting 124gr with a 172 pf, 357 Sig. Gun cycles fine and shoots great, always feeds and ejects. I have used 11# - 14# springs and the guide rod does the same darn thing, as in the picture above. What the ???

    Wolff Guide Rod poor machining? Rod defective? KKM Barrel problem?

    So when this happened the first time, it was at practice, I was lost. Thought for sure something broke. But the guide rod was so low, it was hitting the Locking Block and keeping the slide from being removed. I finally struggled and got the slide to come off, but dang :blink: .

    Any ideas? Get a new rod?

  3. 2w24wuu.jpg

    fmt20h.jpg

    2gv2ffc.jpg

    Installing a Guide Rod Spring onto a Guide Rod.

    What a chore :angry2: .

    Was following what was posted at Youtube, on how to install a Guide Rod Spring onto a Guide Rod. What a workout. Never did get this thing installed. Did launch the spring across the room once..lol.

    This is a Glock 22 slide, Wolff Uncaptured Guide Rod, Gen3 to Gen4 Rod Adapter and Wolff Round Wound Springs.

    So I used a simple crimping tool, compress the spring and grab the end of the rod and insert into Guide Rod Adapter (don't let go and hold tight). I compress the spring by hand and not with the tool. Once the spring is low enough, I then reach for the tool and then grab the rod.

    Works every time, no mess, no fuss. I used a smooth style crimping tool, as not to leave marks on the guide rod. I wouldn't use pliers that would mark up the rod. Last thing you need is the guide rod marked up and the spring catching. Keep the guide rod clean and unscathed.

    Hope this helps and this is also the right place to post this. Cheers, Lastcat.

  4. I had a FF3 on my glock 17 using a dovetail mount. Worked good. From 7yds to 15yds. But when I went to 147 gr the cases would hit the ff3. Looked like a serrated knife. Lucky the glass is thick enough. It survived.

    I changed the slide mount to a frame mount. Now the ff3 sits higher and at 7yds is good. But 15yds it's high. Need to find a compromise.

  5. I just bought 1000 124 fp xtreme's for my 357 sig. There is plenty of flat lower section of the 124 for the 357 sig. But when I loaded a single 124 for 9mm. It doesn't seem like much surface for the bullet to hold on to. Seems kinda of short. I'm sure someone else will add their experience.

  6. Just tried Fed Magnum #200 primers in a 9mm. Using WSF 4.1gr, Glock 17, KKM Barrel, 135fp, 1.150 OAL. Worked!

    Seems to be a little bit harder (but not by much) than Fed #100. But was still able to go "bang". And I was using a 11# recoil spring and a 2# ZEV striker spring. :goof:

    Also tried some CCI #400 Small Rifle Primers with above setup. Those worked too :surprise: .

    When using the Fed #100, I could see the primers flowing into the striker pin pocket, but primers were good and not flatten. Just softer primer material. With the CCI 400 primers, it was not flowing, it was just enough to put a small crater in the primer. Then the Fed #200 were just between the Fed #100 and CCI 400 primer striker pin impression. Just enough to make a good mark, but no flowing of material. This Glock striker pin has about 2500 rounds through it so far. I think if it was worn out, it might not go "bang". I was surprised with the CCI 400's. Never did chrono, but will in the future.

  7. Lastcat

    I have my load down for 147s with WSF, wondering how it will work with 165s and how close it will be to Titegroup in both grains and performance.

    Not sure about WSF and 165, or how it's compared to TG. I have used both WSF and TG, and prefer WSF. Though, some are using WST for 9mm. You'll have to load a few give then a try.

  8. I have been using Federal SP primers and a 3# striker spring, in my Glock 31 and 17 (USPSA, not home defense). So far, everything goes bang. SO, its getting harder to find Fed small pistol primers around here and wanting to switch to small pistol Magnum primers, especially for the 357 Sig. I have been buying 1k at a time, every 2 weeks. So it's time to bite the bullet and buy 5k and have them shipped from Midway. Would cost about the same, if I keep buying here in town, tax. etc.....

    Would anyone know if the Fed SPP and Mag Primers are of the same material and just as soft? I like my 3# striker spring and if I get 5k of the mag primers, would hate to change to a heavier striker spring and be stuck with 5k Mag primers. Thanks.

  9. I did some load testing Friday with Longshot and Power Pistol. Using a Glock 31 with a KKM 4.49" Barrel, Carver 4 port Comp and 11# Wolff Round Wound Recoil Spring. Speer Brass, Federal 100 Primers. OAL = 1.140

    Montana Gold 124hp:

    Power Pistol 7.8gr 1374 fps/170 pf

    Longshot 7.6gr 1347/167

    RMR 124fp:

    Power Pistol 7.8gr 1359/168

    Longshot 7.6gr 1320 164

    Hornady XTP 147:

    Power Pistol 6.4gr 1145/168

    Longshot 6.4gr 1146/168

    Longshot 6.6gr 1188/174

  10. 5 each. If I get a new barrel (KKM 9mm and KKM 357sig) I'll choose a powder that works best. Then select a bullet. For the 9mm (Glock 17 4.49" Barrel) I was using WSF and Xtreme 147 Round Nose. I'll load 5 of 3.4, 3.6, 3.8, 4.0 and 4.2 each. 25 rounds total.

    Then I bench rest and chrono each round. Shoot at 8 yards at a paper target. Each target has 5 .375" circles. I use a mounted Fast Fire 3, so I aim and hold steady for the circle center. Which ever load shoots the best I keep.

    For this load it was Xtreme 147rn, WSF 3.8gr. 856 fps @ 125 power factor, all 5 shots were touching. Takes 25 test loads for a bullet/powder combination. I keep records of rounds, powder, distance, speed and power factor. If I switch powders, I load 25 test rounds and start over.

  11. I've got one of my mags setup with a Taylor Freelance 170mm extension that gets me 25 rds. The others have Taran 140mm and are 20 rds. If I go to 9mm then I'll get 27 and 22.

    On the reloading issue, I'm seeing nice reults to major with BE-86. CFE pistol is next up when I can get to the range to test some ladder loads.

    I just picked up two 22 round mags and two 15 round mags in .40 cal. If you are getting 25/20 rounds that's good. I'll have to load one up and see if I have the same luck. I did measure the 22 rounder, it's a hair over 170mm, might have to shave off the base plate a bit.

    I think 9x45 has used BE-86. I tried to find it in town, but no luck. Did find Power Pistol and will give that a try. I have used #9 and HS-6, but only in the stock barrel. When the KKM arrives, I'll give PP, BE86 and hopefully Longshot a try.

    Let us know how CFE works for you.

  12. .... On the plus side for the Sig, there's plenty of room for powder in the case and so you have a lot of choices of powder to make major and I always got my Sig brass back. Lubing the cases before sizing and then cleaning later made reloading a lot slower than for cases without bottlenecks.

    This discussion makes me start thinking about taking the Sig out this season...

    Thanks pb, that's a great quote, "I always got my Sig brass back". That would be true, its easy to spot. I probably won't have to worry about marking my brass, and let the squad know, they don't have to stand it on end, just lay it on the table and I'll pick it up.

    When I reload, I tumble the brass first in corn media. Then use a small dab of resizing lube on the pad. Put a bit on my finger, then grab a case and run about 8 through the .40 carbide die. Then the lube wears away, then I dab a small bit again, and resize 8 more. Then I use the full length die. Then wet media tumble with the ss pins.

    I just started in this Sport. I wish it was 20 yrs ago. I have a buddy at work that has been trying to get me to go for about 6 months. Glad I finally did. We are just weekend warriors. Not looking to spend a whole lot of $$$$, but somehow we have been. We kind of keep each other in check. He has about 10 pistols. I only have 2, Glock 32 and Glock 17. He wants an STI, I am happy with the Glock 17 and soon to be Glock 31. Something I hope to shoot both for the next 5 yrs. I keep telling him to sell some of those old relic guns he has and get an STI.

    Since I have been reloading for the G32 for 15 years, and I am use to the 357 sig, I can live with it. Even though it is off the beaten path, which I really don't care if it's not a Trubor or an STI. I really wanted to be frugal and not spend a boat load of dollars. Season is upon us, break out that Sig....

  13. I used to load .357 sig for a Glock 31 open gun I shot for a few years. Southern belle brass sells once fired speer headstamp .357 sig brass for around $40 per thousand. They were $32.50 when I was buying them. The brass is LEO range brass pickups. Good stuff as I was on my 4th loading with the brass I had. Load was 1.135 OAL, 7.4 grains Longshot, 124 grain Xtreme FP and CCI magnum pistol primers.

    When you ran that G31 for open, why did you go with CCI Mag primers? Were you seeing flattened primers? What was the fps and pf for this load too? Thanks.

    Never mind, found an earlier post you wrote:

    "They are a little harder than the small pistol primers so less cratering and chance of a pierced primer. A lot of folks use small rifle primers which are much harder but require a stronger main spring and possibly an extended firing pin for reliable ignition."

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