Steppenwolf
-
Posts
231 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Forums
Profiles
Events
Store
Posts posted by Steppenwolf
-
-
Thanks for the suggestions!
I tend to only use my own brass, but good advice to know.
-
Update. Given the advice above (thanks again) I finally figured out that following the instructions in the Hornady DVD that came with the AP press regarding setting up the bullet seating die did not work well for .40 180 grain. I had to turn the bottom of the die (not the OAL sizing knob) more than recommended to resize the case better. Approximately 50% of the finished rounds were "plunking" previously, but 10 out of 10 plunked after re-adjusting the die.
I hope to try some actual rounds soon. I guess like anything in life you gotta wade through the learning curve even if you follow the instructions meticulously.
-
Thanks for the replies. I'll check the bell tomorrow--in looking over the rounds now that you mentioned it that might be the issue.
-
I finally got a Hornady AP progressive press and a .40 cal plate and die set. Cleaned everything per instructions including die set (set up for small primers and pistol meter gauge. De-primes, feeds primers well, and drops powder well (tested 4.2 grains of Titegroup) and got about six or seven similar readings on my Hornady digital scale. I did some test loading to get OAL with 180 grain FMJ bullets set correctly. I'm initially loading OAL to approximately 1.127 (same as Federal 180 gr. FMJ) which my STI Edge runs well.
I tested five rounds (without any powder nor primer) in them in the barrel of the Edge ("plink test"). Some of the reloaded rounds dropped in and out easily. A couple dropped in, but did not fall out until I tapped the barrel. I did run six rounds (no primer or powder) through manually and they all ejected.
First question) Should the plink test be done with a primer and powder charge (weighs a bit more)? I think I have the bullet seater die set up correctly. I had to use Berrys .401 180 grain FMJ Round Flat Points (only local FMJ .40 cal bullets available). Have some XTreme 180 grain .40 FMJ on order.
Second question) I'm using the Edge for USPSA Limited. I'm going to start out with 180 gr. FMJ at OAL 1.127 with 4.2 grains of Titegroup for testing. I do have other pistol powders. Any suggestions for other recipes for Limited USPSA 180 gr FMJ Flat Point?
Thanks
-
I'm still in the research phase for a new 2011 Limited pistol. After reading a lot of posts about Atlas Gun Works' pistols I'm starting to think that they have a secret underground forge with dwarven smiths turning these pistols out. Do you get a ring with strange inscriptions with the guns? I'm starting to get a bit cautious about Atlas, but perhaps because they are one of the newer "custom" shops there are just more recent replies about their guns. I have a stock STI Edge in .40 that is really a good, accurate gun. But I am considering keeping it as a practice and back-up gun. I don't want to buy a steel grip or otherwise enhance the Edge if getting a custom gun makes more sense. The jump from $1600 to $3600 or more really makes me ask a lot of questions. I'm just trying to separate the hype from reality.
-
You can get a stock STI Edge and always have it "tuned." My stock Edge (.40) had a couple of failure to go completely into battery during the first 500 rounds using off-the-shelf ammo (MagTech, Fiocchi, Federal), but that could have been the magazine or just a "break-in" issue. Just tapping the rear of the slide seated the rounds. Other than that, no issues.
The custom guns are much more expensive. Atlas pistols have increased in price. You can find a stock STI Edge for $2000 less than a custom Limited gat. I went with stock because if I decided Limited major was not to my liking I could always sell the gun for minor loss. Jumping into a more expensive pistol and more expensive magazines (MBX, etc.) is something that you can always do later. Start at the base. Next step would be gunsmith tuning. Next step would be sell/trade for a custom pistol.
I've seen a lot of local people buy DVCs or custom guns and have some issues or they quickly soured on the guns because they did not go from C Class to Master immediately. I shoot better than several people with "custom guns."
-
On 7/3/2017 at 9:46 AM, MemphisMechanic said:
Don't switch guns (or constantly mess with yours) in search of a better match result.
Leave it mostly stock - whether it's an Edge in .40 or a Production gun - and shoot and practice your way to A/M/GM.
Most of us spent thousands on guns and internal parts we shouldn't have. You'll be winning matches when you invest in a whole lot of ammo, a training class, and practice often. Not when you get that $5K custom gun.
Sage advice. I started competitive shooting in IDPA about three years ago. Began with stock polymer gun. Discovered USPSA and 2-Gun/3-Gun soon after. I estimate that I've "lost" (or spent on learning "tuition") about $2500 at least after selling/trading guns, holsters, etc., before settling down with what I now use to compete. This year I've turned my attention (finally) to dry firing and specific skill practice because I plateaued (after rising up in the local ranks).
More posts in forums relate to gear rather than learning. Reading about (or watching videos) of gear is fun and interesting (and offers the promise of improved results--path of least resistance). Now that I've shot some out-of-town matches where there are several M and A shooters (occasional GM) I learned that gear (as long as it runs well) is the tip of the iceberg of getting better. I know from experience (in my career field) that you have to pay your dues and "it's a long way to the top if you wanna rock n roll." But trying out different guns and gear was fun (and I learned a lot). I don't consider the time and money spent a complete waste because I did learn a lot. But I am now "investing" as Memphis suggested.
-
Shadow 2 grips
in CZ
9 hours ago, Lior said:I sold off a SP01 Shadow because it was too narrow, even with DAA grips. That said I installed LOK palm swells on a Shadow 2 and the shooting experience was totally different, i.e. unbelievably good.
Ditto for me. I sold my SP01 the same reason. I put LOK palm swell boogies on my Shadow 2 and really like them. The mag release extension was digging into my support hand a bit when firing (with the stock grips on). With the palm swells that issue also went away. The trigger guard is also larger on the S2 than SP01 (works better for me).
-
On 5/23/2017 at 9:28 PM, awleland said:
Anyone have any experience with the Double Alpha PDR PRO II?
Bladetech holsters were over two weeks backordered when I purchased my Shadow 2 (and RHT were a month out at least) so I ordered a AA PDR PRO II so I could practice. I run a Bladetech with Boss hanger with my 2011 setup. So far I like the PDR PRO II just as well (it does have some minor adjustment capability that I like). I have a spare Boss hanger and can always get a Bladetech holster when they are readily available, but I'm going to stick with the PDR PRO II for now. I bought a few snap button "keepers" from a local Police equipment gun shop and always use the keeper that comes with the AA as well as two additional keepers (on the pouch side and holster side) to help keep the outer belt well-attached to the inner belt. I like that the PDR PRO II can be adjusted with the holster on the belt. I shoot USPSA, IDPA, "Action Shooting," and 2-gun/3-gun at times so different holster positions and setups are not an issue for me (for IDPA I use Bladetech with Tek lok on a "tactical belt" with no drop-offset for example).
-
I had two SP-01s (Cajunized). I really liked the CZs, but my fingers are longer than average and the grip just didn't set right with me (besides USPSA I also shoot a 1911 and 2011 in IDPA, "Action-Shooting" (e.g. rogue club), and some multi-gun at times). I sold the CZs end of last season and was considering a Stock 2 (tuned up). However, I purchased a Shadow 2. The grip is better per Rowdy's comments. The trigger guard is "better" as well (size and shape). Overall my hand-to-grip ergos on the Shadow 2 were much more to my liking than the SP-01. I also like the additional weight of the gun. Added extended firing pin and spring, 11.5# mainspring, couple of other minor tweaks/spring and it rocks. I did put LOK Palm Swell boogies on it because the extended mag release button coupled with the aluminum grips was tending to "dig" into my support hand "beefy" pad a bit. With the Palm Swell grips I get even better grip purchase and the mag release issue evaporated. Now that I've shot it a few times I really like it and ordered another AA belt, holster, and mag pouches for a USPSA ready-to-go rig.
I was practicing transitions on various steel plate rack setups at our range (50' to 65' racks with various size six-plate arrangements, from 4" D to 10" D) using various stock 115 gr ammo. There was a guy next to me shooting an M&P 9mm that was getting one clang for every four or five shots. I was getting a clang 6 out of 7 shots just testing it. One the smaller 4" D plates at 55' he was lucky to hit 1 out of 10. I was shooting medium speed (just running the Shadow 2 through its paces) and was getting over 50% hits on the little devils. The more I practice with it the more I like it. It ran over 250 rounds in two sessions so far without a single hiccup or issue. It is a sweet machine.
-
Just4:
It's been a few months since I shot an SP-01 (set up with CGW parts to in-effect be a Shadow). The Shadow 2 grip fits my longer-fingered-hands better (you can get higher on the grip). The extra weight of the gun is nice. I had the trigger tuned and upgraded parts (running an 11.5# mainspring) as well as extended firing pin and spring. My Wheeler (cheap non-digital version) trigger gauge shows 3.25# SA and about 7# DA. If I had to choose between the Shadow 2 and Shadow 1 (never fired an Accu-Shadow) the 2 wins in every category. It is hard to compare cycling after a few months relying on memory, but the extra weight on the front end is nice. I'm glad I bought the Shadow 2. I also shoot an STI Edge and Marauder at times. The weights of the guns are all quite similar now (but the S2 is the new beefy boy in total weight).
-
Ditto for me no blisters. I do notice that the mag release extension (in stock position) digs a bit into my hand, but I take that as a good indicator of how hard I'm holding the grip with my support hand.
-
RIP? I have a RTF2 G19 that I will not part with. I will give the P10 a look, but the RTF2 G19 is not going anywhere. Perhaps more people will buy the P10 vs. a G19, but I doubt RIP is the correct prognostication.
-
Many thanks for the assist gentlemen. I was not expecting the plate to just fall out after pushing the top pin holding it out. I should have "observed" its orientation prior to punching out the pin. The 13# mainspring yielding a better DA/SA pull.
I changed the red fiber optic to green, but unlike the Dawson front sights with notches to cut the rod off easily with a razor blade, I had to do microsurgery on this one so as not to scratch the sight. Pistol is back together and functioning fine.
My first group of 20 shots at 30' had 19 in the black center dot of an NRA pistol target and 9 out of 10 in the black center dot at 40'. I noticed at 50' I was shooting a few inches low, but I think that is a getting used to the sight issue. Ran flawlessly for 200 rounds including running a box of WWB through it as well.
I appreciate the quick help on the forum!
-
I think that you are right about the plate. When I took out the pin the plate dropped off and perhaps I did not notice the orientation of the hole the pin fits in. Does the plate pin hole face the rear of the grip? In that position it appears that the screw holes are not blocked. Thanks.
-
I just picked up my Shadow 2 today. Took it to the range and fired 200 rounds. Nice, accurate gun.
When I got home I decided to take the aluminum grips off and give it a cleaning to get the grease off of parts. I decided to try a 13# mainspring and works fine with the grips off. When reassembling the grips it appears that the hammer must be in the back (cocked) position to get the aluminum grips on correctly unless I'm doing something wrong. The inside-the-grip metal plate cover for the mainspring appears otherwise to block part of the grip screw hole. I didn't want to force things together. Does the metal plate sit toward the back of the grip (behind the screws) with the screws in or more forward of the grip screws when the grips are on? If anyone can offer some quick advice I'd appreciate it. When in doubt I like to ask and I hope I'm making sense. Thanks.
-
Thanks for sharing that. That is a beauty!
-
In our local matches there are people that collect brass while scoring and taping is going on after each person shoots a stage. People bring leather bags (attached to gun carts/gun bags) and the brass is dumped into the bags.
-
When I dry-fired my SP-01 or dry-fry my Wilson Combat Beretta Brigadier I put a small circular rubber washer in the channel where the hammer falls (you can squeeze the circular washer into the channel). That way the hammer does not hit the firing pin.
The only other consideration is dry-firing all the time using DA. It could lead to training habits that are annoying when live-firing (DA followed by SA).
-
Know where the safe areas are. Do not touch your gun except in the allowed area.
You cannot handle ammo in the safe area.
Get on a squad with helpful, experienced shooter(s).
Do not break the 180. Keep muzzle direction in mind at all times. If a stage requires sideways or retrograde movement make sure that you know how to carry you pistol so that the muzzle does not break 180.
If you have to open a door or port--likewise know how to handle your pistol so that you do not sweep yourself.
Help police brass and/or paste targets.
-
1 hour ago, fbzero said:
How come? Is there some kind of problem with the Marauder, or is it just not the best tool for your intended use?
If I had to guess--shooting major in USPSA Limited. I have a Marauder for local "action shooting," IDPA, 2-Gun, and 3-Gun. I have an Edge in .40 for USPSA Limited (after shooting the Marauder in 9mm in Limited a few matches I quickly learned that I needed to shoot major.
-
Per that article "The P320X5 features a redesigned grip with modular magwell. As you can see, there is a slight finger groove undercut and beaver tail. The magwell accepts a removable 35.5 oz weight."
35.5 oz weight? Typo?
-
Interesting. At the three ranges that I shoot competitions at no one shoots a Sig (320, 226, etc.).
I'm waiting to see the Glock 17M (perfection is worth waiting for).
It will be interesting to see if anyone local tries the new Sig X5. I know at least four people that ordered the new M&P 2.0 (but they were already shooting M&Ps).
-
You would be better off building a grip of steel. Grip strength increase and practice gripping hard will take your farther (at no additional cost).
First Time Reloading .40 Questions
in 10mm/40 Caliber
Posted
Thanks for the advice. After slowly processing some more rounds and plunk checking I discovered that I had the expander die (second die) set a "tad" too much. After adjusting and putting just enough expansion to seat the bullet I was able to get better results. About 4 out of the last 16 finished rounds did not quite "plunk" all the way in into the barrel (almost). So I'm getting close, but 75% is not good enough.
I've learned that I'm going to be spending a lot more time learning. I didn't think the "balance" between the various dies was going to be as difficult.