perttime
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Posts posted by perttime
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Almost all of my movement time is spent reloading.
That makes me think there is something not-quite-right with your reloading. (mlmiller1 already mentioned it).
Old mag out as soon as last shot is gone - new one in within a couple of steps.
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In my corner of the world, that would be easy with 9mm.
.40, .45,or .357 ... not so much.
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The one advantage I notice from the vertical foregrip on my AUG is a rock solid low prone shooting position. When I monopod it on the magazine, I can get a second ground contact point by putting my fist on the ground and holding the foregrip with a couple of fingers.
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Oh, and the pouches don't all have to be at the same angle.When you sweep your hand towards the back, the angle of your arm/wrist/finger varies too.
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Most (?) seem to like their mag pouches angled so that you end up with the index finger along the front edge of the mag, when you drop the hand from the shooting position. Then you get the tip of the finger on the first bullet and insert the mag by pointing that finger at the front edge of the mag well.
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My thumb is on the safety lever from the moment the hand grasps the pistol. When your hands come together would be a natural moment to apply the little pressure that you need for disengaging. Or you could do it at the same time as your finger goes on the trigger. The thumb stays on the lever, unless you need it for some other control.
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At what point is the gun pointed at your leg?
A pistol in a holster, or just coming out of the holster either points at your leg or foot, or pretty near. It is so near that I don't want ANYTHING to go wrong. Disengaging when the weak hand gets on the pistol, or even later, doesn't waste any time.
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I prefer bullets forward. I use my index finger to touch the top bullet in the magazine. This helps me index the magazine to quickly and accurately insert it into the gun.
This works for me.
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Rifle primers are a little hotter, so you might want to try slightly less powder first, to play it safe.
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I like to disengage when the pistol is in front of me. The need to engage the safety when moving may depend on which sport you are talking about. IPSC rules have this:
8.5 Movement
8.5.1 Except when the competitor is actually aiming or shooting at targets, all movement must be accomplished with the fingers visibly outside the trigger guard and the external safety should be applied....(my emphasis)
http://www.ipsc.org/pdf/RulesHandgun.pdf
I read that as a strong recommendation to engage the safety.
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Um possibly this, Such targets must be fitted with a replacement non-scoring border, which must extend the full width of the cut scoring area (see Rule 4.2.2).
The missing part simulates the hard cover. The "replacement non-scoring border" just makes it possible to determine if a hit near the cut edge is a hit or miss.
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Holster selection and positioning is one of the lesser hurdles when starting out. I say: keep it simple.
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primer 3 cents.
powder 1 cent.
bullet 7-13 cents. (moly vs cmj)
your material cost for components, for 9mm, per round will be 11-17 cents per round.
I'd be at about 20 (euro) cents in 9mm components (plated bullets) - and get bulk packed rounds for around 22 (euro) cents.
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I didn't quite get the answers.
What specifically prohibits running a side event with something non-standard?
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Depending what ammo and components you can get easily, and how much your time is worth, the cost difference can be pretty negligible.
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Did you manage to call your shots ... and knew it was off before you looked?
You must be doing something right
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A high mounted scope keeps sight line and trajectory a little closer to each other when the bullet starts dropping - possibly forgiving slight errors in range estimation or deviation in velocity.
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The scope is mounted pretty high but that doesn't necessarily mean that it is "too high".
Group looks promising. Many like to run in their barrels with just single shots between bore cleaning.
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I seem to do fine with 2 substances:
- a foaming bore cleaner that goes by "Outers Foaming Bore Cleaner" in USA
- some oil
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Depending on location, being seen to use a "weapon" in a populated area could lead to interesting situations.
What kind of a bird problem do you have? Shooting them isn't always the only, or even best, solution.
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The load doesn't sound too shattering. My guess:
When you are shooting without time to hesitate, you're OK. When you slow down, you have time to think:"Oh dear, it is going BOOM". So, doing more of the "no hesitation" stuff like el prez and bill drills should convince you that the BOOM is OK.
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I've used N310 in 38 Special and even in 357 Magnum cases. Works well - as long as you don't let yourself get confused and put in a double or triple load. I'm sure I still have an old data booklet that has those loads.
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VV n310
For some reason, Vihtavuori no longer lists N310 loads for 38 Special, even for LWC, in their latest material? I might go with N320, instead.
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What kind of pistol and load do you use?
I've cured my blinking a couple of times by shooting something very mild.
I had a break from shooting some time ago, and then the first thing I shot was full house 357 Magnum. Bad idea. It took me a few sessions with lower power to cure the blink I got from the flash/bang/blast.
pre built vs. custom built
in 1911-style Pistols
Posted
The whole point of custom is that you have an idea of what you want - and an off-the-shelf product doesn't do or have what you want.