ngodwetrust21

No. It is a locking block pin. Just happens to have a part that fits into that square recess on the frame. 21.6 clearly says you can replace aftermarket pins. This is a locking block pin replacement.

And why is that? It is a replacement locking block pin. It is legal for the same reason the thumb rest for the takedown lever is legal for the sig P320.

https://www.instagram.com/reel/CpVYIAujtrz/?igshid=MDJmNzVkMjY= It’s official. Sneak peak at the Canik Rival thumb rest from Align Tactical.

The same tennis grip people use on tennis rackets, I use to wrap the grips on the gun. I really prefer it over the skaters tape and silicone carbide.

I have to say I like this silicone carbide idea. You can really make the grip exactly what you want and it is going to be better than anything aftermarket. If I didn’t enjoy using tennis grip so much, I wound do this.

Wonder what this could be??? https://www.instagram.com/p/CpODHsvuh-I/?igshid=MDJmNzVkMjY=

I don’t think one is inherently better than the other. Just comes down to personal preference and for me I shoot the plastic one better.

For me I am having a different experience with the triggers on the polymer. I have 2 that feel identical at about 2.25 lbs. The steel is just a little under 3lbs with the same internals and polishing.

I have a confession to make. I prefer the polymer rival to the steel frame. I shot a USPSA match today with both the Polymer and Steel frame. Did 8% better with the polymer frame and felt much more comfortable with it. The steel frame does recoil less, but I find the recoil to be more predictable with the polymer frame. Not to mention the gun handling is easier with the lighter gun. Another thing I like better on the polymer is the trigger. Trigger is just lighter than the steel with all the same components. Going to stick with the polymer for now.

step one would be taking the slide stop / release out of the gun. Then you should be able to push the trigger bar back far enough and lift up on it with a small punch from the ejector assembly to take the spring off the trigger bar. After that, it is simply resting the trigger up against the frame of the gun and punching the pin out that holds the trigger shoe to the Trigger bar.

Finally figured out how to get the ejector assembly out. Wow that thing was in there tight!

correct.

A Wolff steel guide rod for Glock with a Glock springs from Wolff as well.

I had the 15lb in there today. The 15 lb was absolutely perfect in the polymer frame. 147 gr Brass Monkey loaded to 130 PF. My thinking on why the 15 lb isn’t working just right for me is that the same additional weight making the gun recoil less is also making the slide coming forward push the gun back down less because of the additional weight in the frame as well. Going to try the 16 lb next. Just needs a little bit more coming forward to push it back down.

So after shooting the Rival-S today, I still need to do a little more work on it. It had zero failures and is just as accurate as the other. Extremely soft shooting. Magazines come out easier and do not get hung up. The complaint I have is when shooting doubles or a bill drill with it. With the polymer frame I can stack one shot on top of another, but with this one it doesn’t track in recoil like the other. The sights settle a little higher than where they left from. This is noticeable in slow motion video as well. Thinking I will bring the 16 lb recoil spring with me next time and see if that fixes it. Just need a little more forward momentum to get it to settle a little lower than what it is.

safety plunger, firing pin, and what I could get to on the top of the trigger bar where it depresses the safety plunger.

Trigger on the Rival-S is a bit heavier than what the original Rival is by at least .75 lbs. 3 lbs is what it is breaking at with the same internals that I use with the polymer Rival. Freedomsmith trigger works great. I could not even get the ejector assembly out to polish those parts, it is in there so tight. No idea what I am going to do at the end of the season when I need to break it down for a full cleaning. Going to need someone smarter than me to figure out how to get that thing out. Maybe I just have a really tight fitted one. This is what I have done so far: Polished internals on the slide. 29 Newton striker spring from Sprinco, competition trigger return spring from Sprinco that I stretch out a little to lighten it up, competition firing pin safety plunger from Sprinco, Pro style trigger from Freedomsmith, and a Wolff steel guide rod for Glock with a 15lb spring. Going to try and get it out tomorrow for some live fire and see how it goes. More to come.

She has a date with the Dremel tonight. Will update when I am finished. Currently right at a 4lb pull. Reset is nothing. Balance feels good. I think we have a winner if all the parts swap over with no issue.

100%. He has a video showing him using a factory Canik mag and loading it to 24 rounds on his Facebook and Instagram page.

you don’t need to buy his mag. Use the factory mag, buy the spring, follower, and the Henning +4 basepad.

Yup!!!

Label created. Called them today and was told it should ship out today. Said pickup doesn’t come on Friday. We should have them Wednesday is what they were saying.

You replace the pins every time you take them out? I don’t think you are silly at all for wanting to be able to have access to replacement parts or springs. I like to change out all the springs in the off season myself so I have fresh stuff going into the next season. What I thought was a joke initially was wanting to purchase them instead of contacting Canik and waiting a week or two for them to ship replacement parts. I have never had a problem personally getting them to send me stuff when I needed it. Maybe I just keep catching them at a good time.

Great question. Gun would be front heavy or nose heavy if the weight on the new frame is distributed more in the front of the gun than the rear. Think of the dividing line where your knuckle from your strong hand hits underneath the trigger guard. Rumor has it, the new steel frame is a bit more nose heavy than the plastic frame from the folks I have spoken to.