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Posts posted by rootacres
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Can someone explain to me from where to where is the measurement done to determine the distance a pistol can be from your body. I have a tanfoglio Stock 2 with a bladetech DOH holster on a tek lok. No spacers or anything just outa the box onto my belt. I've used it for almost 2 years. At a level 2 match over the weekend on the first stage I was told it was ilegal and had to take the drop offset off. Does this sound right? This is advertised as a production holster.
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On 6/1/2017 at 11:42 AM, selecw said:
And ?
On 6/1/2017 at 11:46 AM, jcc7x7 said:And Again
Sorry guys, I started drafting a post and then canceled it and somehow it published.
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The majority of the builds I am looking at for limited guns are bull barrels
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39 minutes ago, WhiteDingo said:
I generally use the .250 EGW/JEM safeties, as there's very little blending needed with the CK frame.
Awesome thanks. Thats what I ended up landing on. Everyone seems to speak pretty highly of the EGW/JEM. . Everything EGW for that matter
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When you purchase an STI grip separate do they usually come with their plastic MSH? Or do I need to order one?
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Which radius cut would be best on a beavertail for a CK LDC Widebody frame? .220? .250? Thank you
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15 hours ago, ltdmstr said:
I'm using mostly EGW parts these days. That includes grip and thumb safeties, fire control group, etc. Non EGW parts are AFTEC extractor, Wolff springs, SV trigger, Dawson front sight and mag well, and BoMar/Kensight rear for adjustable and Heinie for fixed.
14 hours ago, Aircooled6racer said:Hello: EGW fire control parts, Ed Brown safeties, Wilson extended slide stop with tang cut off, Dawson mag release, Eddie Garcia magwell, ISMI springs, Dawson firing pin, Caspian slide, Dawson sights, Aftec for 9mm and Caspian for 40 extractors, Ed Brown hammer strut, EGW gunsmith bushing if bushing barrel, Kart or Schuemnn barrel and a moded firing pin stop. Not sure if it is an open pistol or limited? Open add C-More 6 MOA with mount you like. Thanks, Eric
How much gun smithing was required for your EGW trigger kit. I am looking at their hammer, sear, disco setup. Also any experience with ed brown trigger group parts?
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I am taking the plunge and starting a 2011 build (Limited .40 cal), the idea is that this will be my uspsa piece for the tail end of this year/beginning of next. So I am starting with a lower and have a CK arms LDC wide body on its way with an STI variant grip. What lower parts should I take a peak at? Beavertail, sear, disco, hammer etc etc? A SVI trigger is probably a lock but the rest I am open to options. Thank you in advance
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I guess I never realized chronos were so inexpensive. I just ordered one, all good. Now just need to find a place to use it. Thanks everyone
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What does everyone do when they don't have access to a chrono but reload for making PF in a level 2 match? Do you just load what everyone in the forums suggests and then hope it works?
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I currently use 3.25 gr of TG loaded to 1.12 OAL (cause i have too #tanfogliolife) with 147 gr sns coated RN and now switching to 150 gr blue bullets RN. Which powder has the softest feel? I know TG is on the dirtier side and I don't really care. I usually clean my gun after every match anyway. Is there a better option out there for me?
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What's everyone's preferred airline approved hardcase for pistols. I want to start doing some traveling matches and need a hardcase. It'll be for a Tanfoglio Stock 2. Thanks
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Is the performance center ported model legal for production and carry optics when used without the ported barrel? Basically are the lightning cuts and the trigger over travel stop rendering this gun illegal to use in those divisions? Thanks in advance
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Quick question, if you were to take the exact same bullet, brass, charge, and primer. Load one to an OAL of 1.120 and the other to 1.155 (for example), shoot them out of the same gun would there be a velocity difference? How much? How much would the felt recoil change?
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I am entertaining jumping to a different gun for production and CO. I have always liked the ergos on the m&p line but have never owned one to see how nice I could get the trigger. It's basically the only reservation I have about owning one. Can some of the expiernced m&p owners throw out a parts list and what they are seeing from a feel and trigger weight standpoint? Thanks!
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Thanks for the help everyone.
Does anyone have some pics of their tuned ext FPB?
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Someone I shoot with mentioned that once a shooter becomes a master class shooter in their division they are automatically moved to A class in every other division? Is this true?
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So I have read about different OALs for Stock 2s and what works/doesn't. Here is my question, my gun has ran fine for about 2k rounds at 1.118-1.122, if I was to go to say 1.155 and my gun fed everything reliably what is the harm in pushing the boundary on a longer OAL if the gun feeds/ejects everything reliably?
Sorry if this is a dumb question, I've done the plunk test with my 1.122 rounds and the bullet spins just fine. Tried a 1.155 to see what would happen, case gauge and battery test was good but the bullet doesn't spin freely when dropped in the barrel.
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I had a similar feel to my Stock 2 prior to moving to an Xtreme 1 piece sear and Titan hammer (bolo also). Now the reset is very short and crisp. Factory plunger spring, PD reduced sear spring, PD reduced trigger return spring.
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On 4/26/2017 at 11:49 PM, Polymer said:
Are you shooting a stock 2?
I have a stock 2 with everything worked over with patriot defense and xtreme parts with 13 lb hammer spring. I also have a shadow 2 with everything worked over with czc parts with cgw 11.5 lb hammer spring. Both trigger characteristics and weight are almost identical and reliability with winchester primers are the same.
I do, I have everything done similar/same as you. Patriot defense and xtreme parts with a 12lb hammer spring and I basically have to use feds. Winn primers in DA are probably 60-70% reliable with probably 85% ish reliable in in SA.
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Just curious, I am using CZ clone and have my SA pull at 2.4 lbs and DA pull at 5.5 lbs and with the right combo I have had 100% reliability thus far. My problem is I am married to federal primers and they aren't easy to find sometimes. With similar pull weights out of a CZ Shadow am I going to be married to Feds or will I be able to use others?
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What do you all think is the best? I know there are some good options in the plastic pistol world and the CZ offerings. What do you all think is best and why? Thanks
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6 hours ago, MemphisMechanic said:
90% of the people out there don't make any adjustments to the block for it to work correctly.
That's also an impossible question for anyone to answer before you tell them exactly which hammer, sear, and disconnector combination is in your gun.
...and even then, you may be looking at a few thousandths variation from gun to gun. I had obvious impact signs on the side of my firing pin with Titan/bolo/1pc sear combination. For most users that combination is 100% drop-in for the extended firing-pin block (FPB.)
My bad, thats useful info for my question. I edited the post with the parts in my gun. Thanks
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I was wonder with the exact same loading specs (charge, OAL, primer etc.) would a coated lead bullet have greater velocity than a FMJ or vice versa. For example SNS coated vs Xtreme. Thanks in advance.
Titegroup for 135 gr TC minor loads?
in 9mm/38 Caliber
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I just ordered some 135gr TC Blue Bullets to try in my tanfoglio. What's everyone's load for 135s? I've only reloaded 147s. I need to make minor. Thank you