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Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!

BC27

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Posts posted by BC27

  1. After punching some numbers, I'm a bit on the fence about going though with the purchase. Worst case scenario would be that the barrel needs replacement (kinda need to assume the worst). A new barrel with matched bolt is $479. I would need a new muzzle brake blended to the barrel which would be about $100 so it would be $579 to $600 (not sure what JP charges to install and blend the brake). Also, JP Thermo-Fits their barrels so I'd have to send it to them. I believe this costs about $100 plus shipping both ways ($60) So that puts me at around $2,635 which is about the cost of a brand new one. I don't know....

    Blending the brake...some stainless steel rubbing compound and some elbo grease or use a Dremil.

    Thermo-fit. A heat gun and your freezer....do a search about it. Lots of talk here on the forums on "how-to".

    I would not assume that the barrel is shot out. Gauging from the pics you posted, I would bet it does not have that many rounds through it.

    I hear you have several CTR-02's? Would you be able to snap some shots of your brake and the round count so I can compare? That would be great!

  2. I called JP and they told me it is a early 2006 serial number. The person I spoke to was really helpful and provided some things to look for. One of which is the condition of the brake can give me a general round count of the barrel. He said how much gas erosion on the baffles is a rough estimator. Basically, under 2k rounds and the edges will only be mildly rounded and eroded, 2 to 7k will have noticeable erosion and rounded edges. More than 7k and the baffles will be getting thin. Its very broad estimates because there are so many variables but I'll have to take a close look at the brake next time I'm there. It's definitely not under 2k rounds based on what I remember. I do remember the baffles being black and eroded noticeably.

  3. After punching some numbers, I'm a bit on the fence about going though with the purchase. Worst case scenario would be that the barrel needs replacement (kinda need to assume the worst). A new barrel with matched bolt is $479. I would need a new muzzle brake blended to the barrel which would be about $100 so it would be $579 to $600 (not sure what JP charges to install and blend the brake). Also, JP Thermo-Fits their barrels so I'd have to send it to them. I believe this costs about $100 plus shipping both ways ($60) So that puts me at around $2,635 which is about the cost of a brand new one. I don't know....

  4. It's 100% JP. It has the stainless low mass carrier and enhanced bolt. Both JP. It doesn't have the captured buffer but it has the polished spring and low mass buffer. It's at a Cabellas of all places and I went back and put a deposit on it so it's almost mine. Should be able to pay off the balance next month. I also measured the barrel this time and it's 18" which is what I prefer and also why I decided to snatch it up.

  5. It seems like a pretty good deal so I'm very tempted. My only concern is any possible accuracy and/or reliability issues. I broke it down and looked down the bore and I didn't see anything unusual. However, I'm very much an untrained eye with barrels so I have no experience of what to look for. The BCG also looked good, no marring of anything obviously bad. Hmmmm....

  6. So I was at a local gun shop and I came across a used JP CTR-02 for $1999. It looked like a 16" barrel with blended comp, barrel heatsink, low mass BCG and ACE stock. I see that the equivalent new is about $2700 on JP's website. It looked like it was in fairly good condition with just a few scuffs on the hand guard (normal wear and tear). They said they could go down to $1875 maybe more if I haggled. Anything I should look for or is this a good deal? Thanks for any input.

  7. For $1,500, it's certainly a good price and worth the cost. Especially if the 2016 revision has brought it up to date. Having said that, if you can get a stock M2 for the equivalent discount (roughly 35% off), you may consider the stock one and sending it to one of the "big four" and have a full blown race ready M2 for around $1700. You would still need a mag ext for the Factory 3 gun model so the difference would only be $100 to $150. Just my 2 cents.

  8. Having recently made this decision, you should consider a few things. IMO, the Benelli 3 Gun Custom Shop model is a bit outdated and inflated in price (as others have pointed out).

    Outdated in that the majority of current 3 gun shooters have now progressed to 24 to 26 inch barrels (Benelli 3 Gun Custom Shop is only available with a 21 inch barrel). Also, most shooters quad load now and the porting on the Benelli 3 Gun Custom Shop model is set-up for deuce loading and not really opened up adequately for fast quad loading.

    Regarding the price of the Benelli 3 Gun Custom Shop model, it is comparable in price to a full blown AI, TTI or Triangle M2 but with only about half the work done to it. It does not have grip stippling (about $150), Lightened bolt (about $100), Mag tube Ext. and clamp ($70 for the tube and $30 for the clamp). Barrel tuning for POA/POI (about $75 to $100). That's about $500 in upgrades.

    So if your discount can get you the Benelli 3 Gun Custom Shop model for $1,600, you're kinda just breaking even for what you get for your money and you may still wish you had a 24 or 26 inch barrel and you also might need to send it to one of the tuners anyway to open the port up more.

    Just some food for thought from a guy that just went though this exact thing, good luck on your choice!

  9. I think it's two things.

    1. When you draw, draw the pistol up and press out. This brings the pistol in a position for your eyes to acquire the front sight early and by the time you've fully pressed the pistol out, you should be ready to fire.

    2. Muscle memory. Constant training so that you've developed the muscle memory for your pistol to be pointed at your target naturally.

    I think the combination of these two are why the fast and accurate shooters are so fast and accurate.

  10. Hard to believe it was September last year when I started this thread. To recap, I decided on the Benelli M2 and although it was more than I wanted to spend originally, I decided to go all in and sent it to Taran Tactical for their full package. Well, after several months, I just got it back. Hope it shoots as good as it looks!

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    Requested porting for Quad loading

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  11. So, as mentioned earlier in this thread, I ended up with a Benelli M2. When I made this thread, my budget was around $1500 but It seems that went out the window because I sent it to TTI to make it 3 Gun ready. They had a BF sale so that's my excuse for going over budget. I won't get it back for several weeks but I'm really looking forward to the day I get it back!

  12. Ok, I finally made my choice and ended up with an M2. I really think I would be happy with most of the guns I was considering but ultimately, the M2 seems to be the best choice for my usage and needs. I haven't shot it yet but I have ordered a Nordic extension and I'll continue on from there. Once I shoot it a bit, I can decide if I want to send it to one of the many capable shops for enhancements. Thanks for all the feedback everyone!

  13. BTW, I know there are lots of these types of "which gun" threads all over (which I've read) but most are about a year or more old. I think the relevence changes with time and the amount of aftermarket support a gun develops (or doesn't) so thank you again for all the current opinions!

  14. I really appreciate all the feedback and I feel a little closer to chosing. Clearly there are a lot of good choices. Pretty much seems like you can't go wrong with the M2, Versamax, A5 or 1301. 1301 seems best "out of the box" while the M2 seems to have the most potential (aftermarket support etc..) I think it's really between the M2 and 1301 for me right now. If I get the M2, it will probably be the 26" for versatility.

  15. What kills the 1301 is the serial number position, keeps you from opening the port more. I think the lifter on the 1301 is perfect, I have had problems keeping a shotgun feeding 100% with a fully welded lifter. To be honest I have big hands and thumbs, like wear XXL gloves, so my thumb never gets caught up on the 1301 lifter.

    Looks like there's an adiquate amount of room to open the port up. I've seen several photos of 1301's with the port opened without touching the serial number. It is a bit close but looks very doable.

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