BC27
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Posts posted by BC27
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8 minutes ago, alma said:
These are the two I use over a few days hundred P320 grip jobs. I describe the 46/70 as aggressive and the 36 grit associated super aggressive. 6350 locks your hands in very well, to the point that it's hard to shift your grip once acquired. 46/70 is a good compromise. On my own I do 36 on the left side and 46/70 everywhere else.
Thank you Alma. Sounds like 46-70 is what I would likely prefer.
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Just now, Sig0431 said:
I am placing a order now for 1 lb of 60/90, 36 and 46/70. If you have not placed an order by the time I get it I will take some pictures next to grip tape I have and let you know what I think.
Sounds good! Please share your results too. Which adhesive did you decide on?
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1 minute ago, Sig0431 said:
Thank you! I'll probably get the 36 and 46-70.
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2 minutes ago, Sig0431 said:
I was thinking the same thing. I have seen the grips that Alma has but he uses a 30-ish grit that comes with a harbor freight kit, from what I have seen 60 grit looks like what I am looking for and I do not think I have seen a 8 yet but I think that would be way to smooth. I wonder if anyone knows the grit of the grip tape from springer as that would provide a good idea for me. But for $4 not like we would be loosing much money.
Ok, I was curious what the Harbor Freight grit size was. if it's around 30 grit, then 60 should be good. I'll probably get the 80 as well only because $4 bucks is cheap insurance in case the 60 is coarser than I'm expecting. Thanks again for the info.
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8 minutes ago, Sig0431 said:
I was going to share that link as well. Amazon is way over priced. I think I will be going with that website.
Yeah, $4 is very reasonable and we don't need much. Which size grit are you going with? I'm thinking I'll order 60 and 80 and make a test patch on a piece of plastic so I can decide which to use. Maybe even mix the 60 and 80 if I'm on the fence.
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13 minutes ago, Sig0431 said:
Check out this post. Alma posts his video on Page 2.
Cool, Thanks!
BTW, I found this place that has various grit sizes for a reasonable price: http://www.hisglassworks.com/shop/loose-grit/silicon-carbide/1-pound.html
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1 hour ago, mloch said:
Concerning grit size ... I have used 60 grit and it is a bit more coarse than skateboard tape.
I'm getting ready to do this as well. What kind of adhesive did you use?
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I suspect it's a liability reason. My guess is that while the X5 is primarily a competition pistol, a significant amount of buyers will still use hot factory loads in it which would potentially cause damage if sprung too soft. Also, because the shooters that do want to reduce the spring rate for their soft hand loads, the spring rate would be personal preference anyway.
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2 hours ago, bullseye2012 said:
i just installed the Curved PELT trigger in my gun from GG. i am finding it very hard to hear any kind of tactile reset. is this normal? any one else notice this? did i install wrong? it is hard to hear and almost as hard to feel it in the trigger.
thanks.
I don't have the GG PELT trigger but my understanding is that with the supplied trigger return spring, what you're describing is normal with that kit. There are two primary reasons for this. The GG PELT trigger changes the geometry by shortening the moment arm that moves the trigger bar. The shorter arm increases leverage in order to reduce trigger pull weight. The provided trigger return spring is also softer than the factory one, which also brings down the pull weight. Like anything mechanical, there is a compromise in doing this and that is less feedback (tactile feel and sound). Some people are ok with this and others are not. No right or wrong, just preference.
If I could make a suggestion. Use the stock trigger return spring with the PELT trigger for more tactile feel but this will increase the trigger pull weight a bit. To counter this, remove one of the sear springs. This should bring the pull weight back down and still provide the tactile reset you're looking for.
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Mine actually shot high (and a couple inches left) out of the box at 20 yards. I'm shooting 147gn 132pf hand loads. I tested it on a bench rest to insure an accurate POI. Its a very accurate gun for sure though. Also, I did more shooting with mine yesterday to get more rounds though it after doing the trigger work. Such a huge difference with the overtravel and reset reduction. Stock, I felt like I had to slap the trigger to achieve decent splits but now its so easy and more importantly, more accurate (not slapping the trigger). I think it's about as close to a 1911 trigger as I can get it.
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11 minutes ago, Mig9 said:
No over travel or reset was reduced. The gunsmith told me he just polished and removed one of the sear springs.
On my X5 I did some polishing, removed one sear spring, and put in the PELT trigger. Still not where I want it. I don't have your skills so I'll probably send my gun to Grayguns at some point.
Thanks for all the info!
Ok, I was wondering if I was in the ball park for what gunsmiths are doing on the P320. I feel I can probably reduce it a bit more. Honestly, it's not very hard at all once you know what to do. All the work is in the sear and that only costs about $12.00 if you totally mess it up. But getting it professionally done is never a bad idea either.
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1 hour ago, Mig9 said:
I wondered about this too but the trigger job on my p320 FS included the removal of one of the springs; 10,000 rounds through the gun with no issues.
Fascinated with this trigger job report too.
If you don't mind me asking, how much over travel and reset did you get reduced?
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If I get time, I do want to make a video about what was done to the trigger. It's all stock parts including all the springs (minus one sear spring). It's just time consuming to do it right.
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I made a quick video to illustrate stock vs after I reduced over travel and reset. It's hard to measure an exact reduction but I originally estimated 30% but it might be more than that having watched my own video. LOL
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Cool, thanks. Redundancy definitely is not a bad thing when it comes to safety.
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1 hour ago, alma said:
That's why Grayguns developed a cam safety plate that's used on its full competition jobs, to assure that factory safety ratings are maintained.
I'm not familiar with what GG does on the P320. Do they replace the stock striker safety with a cam safety you're describing?
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12 minutes ago, alma said:
You can run one sear spring for a very long time. The bigger risk is changing the drop safety rating as you reduce sear engagement surfaces and tension. That's why Grayguns developed a cam safety plate that's used on its full competition jobs, to assure that factory safety ratings are maintained.
I agree, there is more risk that the sear would slip than any adverse effects from running only one spring. Speaking of the potential for the sear to slip by changing the profile, there are two significant ways to produce a lighter striker release. First is re-profiling the sear and the second is reducing the spring rate of the striker spring. They have the same effect (lighter release) but in different ways. Reducing the spring rate of the striker spring has the same risk of sear slipping as changing the profile of the sear. I believe its a popular method for Glock guys and common practice for other striker fired pistols. I believe it's mostly because it's so easy to change while producing noticeable reductions in trigger pull. The down side is potential light strikes so I prefer to change the profile of the sear. My understanding is the 1911 race guns are typically tuned by the sear profile (and springs). The other reason I prefer to re-profile the sear is because this helps reduce trigger creep. Most importantly, the P320 is equipped with a drop safety which I would never consider bypassing. In the event the striker were to slip, modifications or not, it won't fire.
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Just to clarify, technically its the sear that is offset to the right slightly (in the FCU) creating an offset contact point.
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7 minutes ago, R0CKnU said:
I too am fascinated with your trigger work. But I do question the wisdom of this...
Aren't you concerned that removing one of the springs entirely will introduce lateral torque on the sear? I'm not sure if this would eventually cause uneven wear but, because I'm not sure, I would probably not do this. Grayguns solves this by using two reduced weight springs. This is the preferred method IMHO. But I welcome input from those who know more on the subject. Is my concern overstated?
I don't think your concern is overstated at all and I know exactly what you are asking. Is it possible that there would be some lateral torque on the sear, yes I would think there would be more than using two springs as equipped from the factory. However, am I concerned? Honestly, no. The offset differential using one spring in relation to the bearing surface of the sear is in my opinion, extremely minimal. Especially for a component that moves so little and the spring tension also being very low. IMO the load from the striker creates far more load than the spring. Also, the striker contact point to the sear is actually offset (to the left) on the sear face which would also create much more lateral load than using one spring would. For this reason, I placed the single spring on the left side of the FCU (same side the striker contact point is offset) to potentially cancel each other out. I honestly don't know if that will actually happen but I think any negative effects are so minimal, I'm not worried. I suspect Sig is not either considering they designed the offset of the striker in relation to the sear.
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3 hours ago, BillGarlandJr said:
Isn't factory listed weight 33.5oz? I'm working from memory here, so forgive me if I'm mistaken, but it that's the case then 34.4oz is in the ballpark as long as a guy was willing to run with stock base pads. Heck, depending on the base pads and how much they weigh a guy might be able to run them as well, though it would definitely be getting close to the 2oz overweight limit.
Yes, Production is 33.5oz. I didn't realize there's a 2oz overweight allowance. If so, disregard!
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A guy at a local match got DQed because he did something similar. But he missed a bit and ended up playing spin the bottle with his pistol thus sweeping everyone behind him which is how he earned the DQ.
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I got my Springer tungsten guide rod and 1911 springs today. I was hoping to make Production weight with it but unfortunately it's over by a good margin. It weighed in at 34.4 ounces with 17 round mags and stock base pads. So just an FYI for those that want to use the X5 for production, might want to go with the stainless instead.
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1 hour ago, sfinney said:
Any pics of the mods? How is it holding up to live fire?
Unfortunately, I didn't take any pictures but I was thinking about possibly doing a tutorial at some point if people are interested. I haven't had a chance to live fire many rounds just yet but I don't foresee any issues. I had done the same sear work on my VP9 and it's going strong thousands of rounds later.
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Congrats, very nice gear! Depending on your club, some expect help with set-up and tear down so if your club does, I would recommend a pair of mechanics gloves so you don't mess up your hands with splinters or cuts setting up and tearing down stages.
320 Grip Job with slilicium carbide - good to go for Production?
in Sig
Posted
Thank you, that's probably the route I'll go with as well.