taxil343
-
Posts
281 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Forums
Profiles
Events
Store
Posts posted by taxil343
-
-
I have a 34 that is a great production gun and a 24 that is a great limited gun. Glocks are fantastic for competition, even more so since you are new, as they are reliable. A gun that runs 100% will take you a long way in this game.
-
On 7/14/2015 at 7:49 AM, RandyLahey said:
I had lead issues with bbi until I opened the bell more and reduced my crimp. I pulled a few bullets and you could see shaving of the coating. Opening the bell was most of the issue.
This is the answer. I've run thousands of SNS and when loaded correctly they produce zero leading in factory barrels.
-
You guys are a wealth of information on these guns. Thanks for another great how to, it is much appreciated.
-
I will give it a go this afternoon with the 13lb Wolff and no fpb. Thanks guys
-
5 hours ago, johnbu said:
Questions
Have you verified the FPB is not dragging or partially blocking the firing pin?
Have you polished the firing pin channel and FPB hole?
Have you noticed any hesitation of the slide going into full battery?
What lube are you using, what temperature? (some lubes thicken and slow everything too much).
My opinion is that cci needs at least the 14pd hammer spring AND pd firing pin to be match reliable with really good reloads. (Yours sound good by the way).
A fresh gun may still have a few areas to polish. Don't dispare! Just DA dry fire the snot out of it [500 or more times) then inspect for any areas needing more shine.
Some guns / primers just need more whack force. I think PD is going to make a 15 or 15.5 spring for them. even if you need it now, after use and more polishing you probably will be able to drop the spring rate.
I prefer to start the quest with good polishing, quality lube and at least the 14pd spring. Then run it, fine tune it and creep down the spring rate. It's less frustrating for me that way.
I have not pulled the fpb yet and I'm fairly certain this is the culprit. Will remove and try again today. Fp and fpb channels are mirror polished, worked quite a few hours here as I read many of your posts stating how important this is. Slide goes into battery perfectly. I am using original slide glide on trigger, slide and spring engagement areas and a liberal dose of a super thin synthetic everywhere as this is a brand new gun. I will try out the 13lb Wolff while I'm waiting on 13 and 14lb PD spring to arrive and hopefully that will get me on the right track.
-
39 minutes ago, MemphisMechanic said:
You have two choices.
1) Load ammo much more meticulously. "Below flush" isn't good enough for a 12 pound hammer spring and Winchester Primers. They need to be 100% at full depth 100% of the time with Winchester primers.
2) Make the gun hit harder. The 14 pound PD hammer spring and PD firing pin would probably run 100%...
With primer seating like yours and much harder CCI primers, PD doesn't currently make a spring heavy enough to run my gun 100%. I had to install a 15.5ish lb EGD Xtreme Medium spring to light my "worst case scenario" ammo. This also brought my DA pull to 7.1 pounds. Hopefully when PD comes out with a 15.5 hammer spring it'll still hit hard without stacking as badly, and drop me back down around 6.5 pounds.
A Wolff 13 or 14 pound spring would definitely run your gun 100% with Winchesters that aren't buried at ful depth.
I thought .004"-.010" below flush was deep, am I wrong on this? What kind of primer seating depth should I be looking for? I'm not sure how much more meticulous I can get with my loading. I've already given up the 650 in favor of a hand primer and a rock chucker. Surely there are guys out there with 12lb PD, EGD light, etc. hammer springs that don't approach loading for these guns like they are f class rifles. I do have a 13lb Wolff that I will try.
-
I am brand new to Tanfos as well, also coming from a polymer gun. Today was my first time shooting/testing the gun and a few loads. Gun is currently set up with PD firing pin and spring, xtreme fps, PD 12lb hammer spring, bolo, titan, xtreme trigger bar and sear, PD sear and trigger return springs and an 18lb henning plunger spring. I have done what I thought was a good job of polishing everything as outline in several threads on here, nearly three weeks worth doing a couple of small parts each night, and ended up with a 5.5/2.5lb trigger. I have read numerous times about how perfect ammo needs to be for some of these thing to run well so I decided to work up some test loads on the old single stage to rule out ammo related issues. All primers, CCI and Winchester, were seated .004"-.010" using a hand primer and then checking each one with calipers. All rounds were loaded to 1.100" OAL and every one passed plunk. DA ignition with Winchester primers was 80% with all but one round igniting on a second strike. DA ignition with CCI was 70% with most rounds igniting on the second strike and all but one igniting on the third. One of each failed to ignite in both DA and SA after at least 10 strikes. I assumed that the henning plunger spring was the culprit so I swapped it for the factory spring to no avail. Any ideas on what may be causing the problem? I am going to remove the fps and try again tomorrow.
-
7 hours ago, MissionaryMike said:
John, it's great to see somebody like you taking the time to invest in the next generation of shooters. Though I'm relatively new to shooting myself, I can't wait for the day my own kids are able to participate alongside me, and me alongside them.
I very much envy the 2lb single action trigger you're able to retrieve achieve after only five hours. My 12lb hammer spring will not go under 2 1/2.
The 2lb single action alludes me as well. My numbers match yours at 5.5/2.5 with a PD 12lb. I'm hoping that some rounds downrange (current round count is 0) and maybe another round of polishing will take some weight off.
-
I would love to have a couple of full length guide rods for my 17L and 24. I have done some pretty extensive looking and didn't find anything at all. I am thinking about having a machinist that I shoot with make me a couple. After reading the description in the link you posted I'm fairly certain that this rod is no different than any full size small frame glock captured rsa
-
Thanks everyone. I'm just wondering if there is significant difference between gen 4 with extended mag release vs gen 3 that i have currently with extended mag release. I'm not going to buy new gen 4 and work it up for production if there is essentially no difference.
Gen 4 mag release is larger, more surface area, but doesn't protrude as much as the gen 3. Seems like a wash to me.
I personally prefer the gen 4 Glocks for 2 reasons, the beavertail backstraps and the mag release. The mag release in standard length or extended is much better than its gen 3 counterpart IMO. The extended gen 3 release is so long that it digs into my weak hand. The standard gen 4 release is superior in shooting comfort and ease of manipulation IMO, and the extended gen 4 is just that much better.
-
Thanks for everyone's input so far. I'm asking to see if it's worthwhile to switch from gen 3 to gen 4 due to my inconsistent ability to reach the gen 3 mag release.
Another question, the 34 gen 4, does it already come with the extended mag release?
That depends. Most come with extended controls, an adjustable rear sight and a 4.5lb dot connector. Mine however was a blue label gun so it came with standard controls, a fixed rear sight and standard 5.5lb connector.
-
I run one in my production 34 not really because I feel it gives a significant advantage but more just because it's legal. The part only costs about $5, you can get them from Dawson Precision, so I say why not. I have no experience with a large frame release in a small frame on gen 4 guns so hopefully someone else will chime in.
-
I have the .200s and they will fit in the box with Dawson adjustable sights. Not sure the .300s would as it is tight with the .200s. If you run a fixed rear you could likely use the .300s. As Delta66 said they're not really a whole lot easier to remove than the factory base pads, but they are easier and I like them. If you want to spend double the money the Shockbottle ones that Stoeger sells look nice. I can't see any way that the TTI pads would fit in the box with an adjustable sight but they seem like the best as far as ease of removal.
-
I polish the locking block, barrel lugs, leading edge of the barrel hood, frame rails, ejector and all components that make up the fire control group on all of my Glocks. I do this to slick up the action and make them easier to clean. I have far more than 5k rounds through several of mine with polished internals and all are just fine.
-
They both took me about an hour to install. I use a dremel to remove material from the trigger control tab on these ghost connectors, and then smooth/polish. After the TCT is at the right length I get the reset where I like it by adjusting the angle of the connector. As far as the install goes it's a wash. I put this connector in a production 34 with a Vanek classic grandmaster kit and I did not have to adjust the pre/overtravel set screws. At half-cock the trigger is in the same spot with either connector and they both break at the same point in the pull, again a wash. Cycling the slide is a shade mother with the Evo in the gun but I'm sure the 3.3 will wear in. If I were you I would get the Evo and spring kit (4.5lb striker spring, rp fps spring and xp trigger return spring) and call it good. You can do this for the same price as the 3.3 alone and it will make much more of a difference in your trigger.
-
The 3.3 arrived in the mail today. Got it installed and all tuned/tweaked to my liking. To me the ONLY discernible difference between the 3.3 and the Evo Elite is the $10 price delta. They both feel equally light and smooth with a consistent rolling/unexpected break. Reset is identical in length, force and quickness. I'm not saying that the 3.3 is no good, just that the Evo Elite is just as good IMO. That being said I am going to leave the 3.3 in the gun, mainly because I just spent $40 on it, in hopes that as it wears in it will get smoother/lighter. If I had known what I know now I would've stuck with the Evo and saved the money and time I invested in the 3.3. Good luck with your decision. I don't think you can go wrong with either one of these for your desired application. Let me know if there's anything else you would like to know.
-
After the match today I'm thinking a rolling break is the way to go. For me the change yielded a significant reduction in charlies without placing any extra emphasis on accuracy. As far as the +2s go I'm not sure since they would have to be for large frame Glock mags and I have no experience with that, maybe someone else will chime in. In my experience with the Glock +2s on 17 round 9mm mags, if you want the slide to lock back after the last round you will need +10% springs.
-
The Vanek housings are great to add adjustability to triggers without pre/overtravel adjustments. If you're going to run the factory trigger bar this is a must have IMO
-
I'll be able to let you know a little later this week as I just ordered a Pro 3.3. I've had the Evo Elite for a while now but just had it in a carry gun. Had some rest issues during the match last weekend so I needed a new connector in my production gun. I've always used connectors that gave a very light take up with a defined wall and clean break, basically a 2 stage trigger. When playing around with new connectors the other night it occurred to me that the rolling break of the Evo Elite would lead to a smoother trigger pull at speed and thus should be more accurate. I tested this theory in a match today and I'm sold. I'm hoping the Pro 3.3 will be very similar and noticeably lighter. I'll keep you posted...
-
I tested everything from 11lb to 15lb in my 24. What I do is put two on paper as fast as I can at 7 yards and look at the group. If the second shot is low I go down in spring weight, if the second shot is high I go up in weight. For me the 13lb was best with my gun and load. Only problem was they didn't last too long, 700-1000 rounds, before struggling to return to battery and therefore causing feeding/ignition issues. I have settled on the Wolff 14lb spring and they run 100% for much longer. You really need to test different spring weights with your personal shooting skills/gun/load.
-
Is there lube on the connector? I use a little slide glide on mine and it makes a big difference.
Don't get carried away with the slide glide application between the connector and trigger bar. The standard slide glide is too viscous to be applied liberally. I learned this lesson the hard way and it cost me a HOA when my trigger decided to not reset on stage 6 of a match causing me to zero the stage. I have gone back to Hoppes gun grease in this contact area and Slide Glide on the frame railes, locking block, barrel lugs and hood, and guide rod. Been flawless for me for about 7000 rounds.
-
I bought a Zev Ultimate Fulcrum kit a few months ago and it doubled with every trigger pull. This was in an open steel gun I built and after a 170mm mag dump I had a guy in my shooting club jokingly ask to see my tax stamp haha. I quickly made the adjustment that JBP55 and I have described and brought the gun back to being a functional semi-auto pistol.
-
That would Ruin the tempering on the part. You would lose all hardness
If you do this make sure to use a pencil torch to heat up the area you want to bend before trying to make any adjustments. Glock trigger bars are quite brittle if they're not hot. This is about the only way you can "tune" a fire control group to your particular gun. Glocks are pretty loose on tolerances anyway so the exact same parts will act differently from gun to gun.Put the cruciform end ("sear") in a strong steel vice, just the tip, then tap with a mallet to bend it upwards a fraction more. It takes like 5 minutes, don't overdo it.
Use heat until cherry red, bend and let it cool.
Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk
It works well and I have never seen one fail.
I've done this to all but one of my Glocks and have never had an issue. Also have a few where I have increased the angle between the top side of the cruciform and the leg that the trigger return spring hooks into in order to limit pre-travel. No problems with wear there either.
-
All of the frame weights without thumb rests should be identical as they simply slide onto a rail of standardized dimensions. I suspect the differece between the full frame and compact models lies in the dimensions of the small aluminum piece that slides into the slot in the rail. The difference between the large and small frames should be in the width of the thumbrest as the inner side, where the thumb rest actually contacts the frame just forward of the slide lock lever, should be relieved in order to accommodate the wider frame.
g34 gen4 accuracy issues
in Glock
Posted
I have shot many different glocks with factory and aftermarket barrels from several manufacturers. The factory barrels are every bit as accurate as any of the aftermarket ones. I would start by swapping the locking block.