rpm8300
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Posts posted by rpm8300
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Lots of great advice already posted - I would get good video footage of your runs and then also record the folks that you are using for base lines. Use your computer to do some analysis on the dead time in transitions - i.e seconds between your last shot fired and the first shot fired in the next position. There are some good freeware video editing software packages that can make this easy based on displaying the audio track which shows exactly when the shot is fired. If you're running the same stage plans as the other folks, you'll be able to see exactly where you are losing time. There is a temptation to haul between positions but the small amount of time you gain in really pumping arms and legs can be easily lost in efficency.
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Hey partner, I'm in Atlanta now but have family in Huntsville and travel there regularly. I shoot matches in GA and the ones in Birmingham - if you are ever shooting TPS in Bham message me or text me and we can link up - 706-329-6261.
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To add to all the things previously stated, indoor matches are a good way to get some trigger time under the pressure of a timer and people watching, but are not great predictors of performance in 'real' matches. As people have said, lighting, noise, percieved recoil due to gas, smoke, muzzle flash, all play a factor. Also, indoor matches are always low round count and generally have wacky stages designed to keep bullets off the side walls.
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Red Stitch for the win - I used to be local to the DC area and they provided everyone with new steel for big matches and refreshes - great folks to work with!
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The carbide grip job is worth the time and energy - it can all be done at home with a dremel and what you can get on Ebay or the local hardware store.
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Generally there is a fault line that is forcing you to lean - what helps me is using the fault line as a contact point for the leading foot and anchoring it to balance the weight shift. As such, during my walk throughs, I identify exactly where my foot will contact the fault line to set up for a successful lean position.
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A few things to consider - plated bullets don't work well at major PF velocities. That doesn't exactly explain your velocity issue but you may have accuracy issues. Did you chrony in low light conditions? If its not the chrony and environment, are you possibly losing powder out of the case? At 6.8 gr of N340, you should have plenty of room in the case but losing powder is one way where you can have inconsistent velocity.
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It depends on what you want to run out of it - the best part of a 6" ish range barrel is that you can use your other minor loads, i.e. for production or Carry Optics without changing load data. I had a 5.5" with pinned and weilded shroud by TACCOM 3G which worked fairly well, but in retrospect, I would get something longer around 8". One thing to think about as well is balance - with a full 16" or 14.5" plus yyyuge comp, the rifle is obviously front heavy. 8 + shroud seems to be the sweet spot for balance as well.
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I run the Hiperfire Eclipe with the medium return springs and it runs all of these 100%:
Winchester Small Rifle
Federal Small Rifle
Fiochi Small Pistol
CCI Small Pistol
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There have been volumes written on this so the only thing I'll add is for the extractor, there is a rubber ring that is included with the extractor spring and rubber insert. The one that came from Sig was orange in color; I used that and then when it was time to switch it out, I bought generic parts off Midway for standard AR15s. Keeping this spring fresh, i.e. every few thousand rounds, seemed to help.
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I bought a CZ SP-01 Shadow 1 Optics Ready direct from CZC; I found the plates I needed on their website and on BSPS. The system works very well - the plates slide in with a tight fit so just a little bit of filing was required for me. The entire set up has a very good fit and finish; I have a 2.5 SRO on it and it still sits fairly low.
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If you're going to spend the money, you might as well go with the R3MAX. The offset isn't really an issue for USPSA applications.
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Both have worked in the past - although I have seen a fluke thing where somehow a round got underneath the MBX follower. Regardless of what guts you use, the key is tuning the mag lips with digital calipers and a rubber mallet.
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I've used it in multiple setups and it works 100% - its a pretty simple mechanical system so there's not much to go wrong after you get the springs set up for your load.
I will say the Blitzkreig with a standard AR15 carbine spring, with a spacer, is what I prefer over the MBX system.
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As previously mentioned, to get the timing of the gun right, assuming the metal on metal lock up contact points are not jacked, look at a comination of the recoil/hammer spring. I ran an 8lbs recoil spring with 147 Blues and TG; I ran Fed SPP ( oh what a distant memory when it wasn't a big deal to do that) and took an 11lbs hammer spring and cut 2 coils.
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PM9 is an outstanding gun - mine worked well with Chip Mccormick 10 round mags, 147 Blues, and TG. It got a little smokey at FL State for some morning stages but overall a very soft shooting gun and load. Of note, that load was very accurate for coated bullets - 1" at 20 yds. Admittedly I had to try a few different mags before settling on CMs.
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On 6/1/2021 at 11:34 AM, bigdawgbeav said:
Thats what I'm looking at now. I will also say that my current PC Carbine setup is awesome for PCCI with my Tandemkross Upriser chassis. Would probably hold on to it just for that.
The PC Carbine could make an oustanding steel challenge gun in that the recoil system can easily be modified to handle really light loads - it is just one spring and the weights in the bolt can be removed. I bet you can run sub minfor PF easily. TACCOM 3G has a light weight handguard.
Another good thing about the Ruger PC is realiability when dirty - this gun runs for days - not finaky with ammo or heavy use at all.
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Try the Taylor Freelance - way easier to field strip/clean during a match - just need a hex wrench.
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A good buddy got me on Loctite Marine Epoxy and 45/70 grit off Ebay - it works very well on Glocks/Sigs, polymer lowers.
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A couple 'gold' standards are Ben Stoeger and Mason Lane; Lane is extremely impressive in that he swipes the mag and seats it in one fluid motion with no apparent change in speed of his hand at any point in the reload. I think the biggest point of performance where most shooters can take a little time off is the initial entry of the mag in the magwell; how much do you slow down, are you orienting the gun so you can see the outside edge of the magwell, etc.
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I strongly recommend 10 yards as a rule because crazy things can happen when you shoot steel closer - as previously noted, sometime you have novices that bring out non-standard shot loads and it can end up all over the place, and splash back to the RO/time keeper.
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If at all possible, post them - those attending will greatly appreciate the ability to dry fire and train and put their best foot forward when trying to move up in classification.
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Whatever you train will feel the most comfortable - for most people, their standard USPSA start position is with their strong hand's corresponding leg slightly to the rear in relation to the other foot. As such, if you are drawing and shooting SHO, most people take a small step forward with that foot while drawing and then engage with the strong hand and strong foot forward. If you have a classified where you have to transition the hand to the support hand, same deal, put that foot forward. Again, many people in USPSA don't dry fire/train SHO - if you put in a few reps each dry fire session, whatever you train will give you success in the rare situations you have to do it for a match.
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FWIW - I'm in law enforcement and most engagement are 7 yds and in, and quite a few are in lower light situations; for anything personal defense I would train on night sights; having the dot is good but in high stress situations, you can bring a gun up and not see a dot; it will take you a second to hunt and find it.
Dry fire with a timer?
in Training Techniques
Posted
Hey partner, of note, I take note of multiple sub-times that make what most people call 'draw time.' There is the time to get the gun out of the holster and presented - this is obviously different with wrists below belt, wrists above shoulders, or some other wacky start like hands on marks, hands in pocket with bullets in pockets, etc. The 2nd part of this is the time to first shot, which obviously depends on a lot of things. Most A shooters and higher will have decent and comparable 'draw' times, as in the first time I mentioned. Some pro shooters like Mason Lane 'snatch' their guns out which makes for a very first draw; others do a traditional draw. Either way, your draw time is most likely not where you'll get a ton of return on investment training wise. Just one opinion...