rpm8300
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Posts posted by rpm8300
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They are expensive but the Salomans are great shoes - I used to do Speedcrosses but now use a combination of those and the Outlines:
https://www.salomon.com/en-us/shop/product/outline.html#color=49396
These are great for everyday and match uses - they have plenty of traction but traditional laces and are very comfy.
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On 7/14/2021 at 11:35 AM, Cuz said:
Interesting, I’ll have to remember to bring my Gen4 G17 next time to see where that chronos. Seems like you also support the results I am getting with regard to non Glocks.
Hey partner - My CZ 1 barrel is the slowest of a bunch of guns I run minor through, while Glocks are the fastest. On that note, the Glock isn't as accurate with the really fast powders - I actually like N310 which is super fast, and Titegroup which is a little slower but still really fast.
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I see about a 15fps drop between my Gen 4 G34 and my Gen 5. That being said, with Blues and Molys, both guns are about 30 fps faster than non-Glock counterparts, i.e. CZ and Tanfo.
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I worked up a great feeling minor load for a Czechmate with 115 Blues and 6.8 3N38 - the gas really helps work the comp but its super soft and flat.
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CZ Custom has SP01 Shadow first gens that are cut for their plate system - I got one for just over $1000 and it was a great deal. The plates are easy to find and work very well. Of note, I prefer the ergos to the original CZ Shadows over Shadow 2.
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The SRO is a very good optic, other than the fact that 1 of 2 new ones I bought died after a few hundred rounds. I called and got a rep after 2m of waiting; the guy was super polite and I got an RMA. About 2 weeks after they got it, I got an email saying the sight will be covered under warranty. It has been a month since that time and nothing back, but they did say there is a big backlog for service. That to me is also an issue and indicator. Long story short, when they work, they work very well. For context, Ive had more SIGs die than Trijicons. The only optic that has never failed me is a Cmore Slideride - other than that, you name it, Ive seen it go down.
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When I went from Glocks to CZ for production, I had a few hiccups with stages where the first shot is steel or a tight paper engagement at 15 yards and further. I understood the techniques previously mentioned but didnt apply them in real life situations. I took an 8 inch round steel plate, and head shot USPSA at 20 yards and drilled double action ad naseum. It was part comfort and part confidence but after blowing through many rounds (ah the old days where primers were less than 3 cents per) no more issues. Lastly, try different techniques - dont take anything said on this forum as gospel - different tehcniques work better for different shooters.
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Fortunately the 2011 is great for changing out mag buttons - I would try the beefiest one you can find. Really the only issue is when you have a mag release so big, your support hand accidentally punches it during firing as the gun moves during shots.
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Hey partner, on my Instagram I have a few videos to help with the discussion thomas_koh_usar_cmp - breaking down partially, fully, etc, is a matter of efficiency. Since every transition is different, its hard to use a general rule. For R to L transitions with a pistol for a R handed shooter, if you have more than 1 step, not the USPSA make ready fake step people take, but both feet coming off the ground and touching again, it is generally good to break down and release. The fractions of a second that add up for situations you describe is building the grip back efficiently so your on the trigger as soon as possible in the new position. Look at your videos and see if the gun is up prior to the window of shot opportunity opening.
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Talons are really easy to throw on but not as cheap as some of the Home Depot posts; the carbide grit is really worth the trouble if you plan on shooting a lot of matches.
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This isn't what you're looking for but have you looked at the IFG Stock Master series? I bought a Stock Master for production and then bought a replacement slide from IFG and had it milled for CO.
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BlackBulletsInc has been super fast over the last few weeks - 125 and 147s.
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I got mine from Pat Rafferty who has the formula figured out - it is very hard to say an open gun is 'better' or 'best' but having shot all of the previously mentioned guns, his are tied with the 'best'. I got my hands on a fully setup newer Infiniti in 38SC with 3N38 - very good feeling gun; Pat's 9mm major mid length feel the same, seriously.
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As previously stated, the Slideride is a very strong choice for a CZM because it doesnt suffer from potential case ejection issues as 2011 open guns do, and although it eats batteries and is ginormeous compared to microdots, it is bulletproof for reliability. It also is very easy to change diodes and the 30mm glass is the gold standard. If and when a new CZM design comes out, hopefully it will be setup for a slideride.
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N320 is great for pretty much everything non-major. Without going down another rabbit hole, N310 can be used for minor with 147 or heavier bullets and I've posted on this before. Since it is so fast, it is extremely light and takes a small amount of powder.
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I have this too and I agree its great but only for a plastic frame gun like the Glock. I tried it on my CZ and Tanfo and the weight was too much and threw the balance and timing off. For those, a TLR1 is the perfect amount of weight in my opinion. Of note, you can get RHT to make you a holster for the Glock+LOK TEK combo - highly recommended.
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Trying a 3MAX after a SRO died after 100 rounds - so far so good but it only has a few hundred rounds. OF NOTE - it came with no screws holding the battery trey compartment. I was able to cobble something together from the hardware store - SIG sent replacement ones 2 day FEDEX.
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FWIW I ordered, my G34 took 4 months to show up - I emailed Glock and they were polite and responsive. I'm sure they are seriously backed up and the GSSF certs are at the bottom of the fill priority.
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147 Blues are always a little heavy, and they are generally a little faster. 3.0 of Titegroup or 3.2 of N320 worked for me - great combo as long as it is accurate for you.
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8.4 3N38 with 124 FMJ or 125 Coated (Blues and Blacks both work well) - great load - this is in a 2 large popple hole gun. I havent tried 350 but I did test load against the usual suspects, Autocomp, Silhouette, 3N37, AA7.
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I've been using Winchester SRP and Federal SRP - they work very well and I can't really tell any difference. I will say the Win SRP do take a little more force to ignite; the Fed seemed to work with the lightly sprung setups that Fed 100 SPP ran.
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I did open minor with a Czechmate a couple years ago - a ton of fun. I had the most success with 3N38 and 115 Blues - enough gas to get the comp working and the dot barely moved. I even tried AA7 but it is dirty and didn't feel any better in that application.
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The hundo and cheap plastic 100 round ammo boxes work well - as previously stated, just have a few extra boxes so you can do the transfer twice. Of note, you'll want to take a brush and clean the hundo every once in a while because it will get gummed up and it will be hard to tell if a round is sticking or if there is gunk making the round stick.
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I would say the answer depends on where you are as a shooter - B and below shooters will have different high payoff training areas for live fire, than an A trying to break in to M or higher. It sounds like you've already put a lot of thought in to it so I'll skip to the M/GM level stuff. What may help is looking a little broader for what to spend your training rounds on. Look at your Level 2/3 match stages and compare them in a broad sense to where you want to be - note, this really only works if you can find some footage of some folks, and you have your own. If you are chasing a GM level shooter who is pacing you by 2 seconds in an average long course - look at exactly where that time is spent. Transitions may be the highest pay off for you to close the gap but you may be surprised that its something else. What I've seen personally trying to close those gaps are 1) efficency in movement, i.e. losing time getting in to the position and getting shots off, and 2) total time in 'tough' engagements -i.e. hard leans, complex techincal swingers or other moving targets, etc.
What's the best work out for IPSC/USPSA shooters?
in Physical Training
Posted
Having lost a lot of soft tissue between 4 deployments as an Army Ranger, I will highly recommend PT type exercises for your knees and ankles. Specifically, exercises that strengthen the soft tissue so that it can hold up to the hard cuts you do in USPSA. Think wall squats with a ball, or squats with a band around the knees, resistance band ankle exercises, etc.