superdude
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Posts posted by superdude
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maybe. check with the folks at Clark Custom guns. i'm sure that they could give you a definitive answer.
http://www.clarkcustomguns.com/
some of the other custom gunsmiths can probably answer that as well.
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also see this link:
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did i understand this right? they tested your loads in their revolver for PF?
if that's right, that's the problem. Different guns produce different velocity with the same ammo. even if the guns are the same make, model, barrel length, even if they came off the production line one after the other.
if i did understand that right, you NEVER use a different gun to test velocity. NEVER! the range folks should know this. ALWAYS test velocity of a shooters loads in the shooter's gun. ALWAYS!
The Speer handloading manual #13 goes into some detail on this subjects and provides test results from a bunch of 357 revolvers just to make this point. Twin guns can produce dramatic differences in velocity. And i've clearly seen this in 1911 barrels. Each gun (read barrel) runs different.
there is a short discussion of this at: http://38super.net/Pages/Factory2.html at the Published vs. Real Velocity section.
if i misunderstood the description i'm sorry for ranting.
superdude
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i just received an order from pathfinder sports yesterday. but i noted on their website that they are not taking orders for a couple weeks.
http://www.pathfindersports.com/
best,
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nice photos, and an important distinction to make to shooters who are not yet familiar with the terms and usage.
another site for feed ramp photos and a brief explanation can be found:
http://www.38super.net/Pages/supported.html
superdude
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i've been using a 45 LDA in production. i use it because i use other paras in limited and open, so it feels the same and i can use the same mags. with practice the trigger is not difficult to manage. i have no complaints and thinks its a good option for production, especially for 1911 lovers since the only difference is the trigger.
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i don't have anything particularly brilliant to say but i can give you a brief rundown on a couple of issues you might encounter when handloading. note that i'm mostly familiar with 38 super and 45ACP.
accuracy. simply put, it depends on the gun (barrel). some guns (barrels) have preferences. mine do. ultimately you have to find out what your gun (barrel) likes.
bullet brands. the sky is the limit here. different people will tell you what brand their gun likes, and it differs with each person. the major brands, and some minor brands, all produce excellent quality bullets, so its hard to go wrong. you might find that your gun(s) has preferences.
bullet design. i have better accuracy with flat nose bullets, especially in my 38 super, not as big a difference in my 45. but i've seen published results of an accurized 38 super that shot the round nose types as well as the flat nose types. but reliability with flat nose bullets might not be as good as round nose bullets.
reliability. FMJ round nose bullets are hands down the most reliable feeders in semi-autos. Hardness is a factor here. plated bullets, even though they might be round nose, are swaged and made from a soft lead allow and are softer than true FMJ, and they can cause feeding problems - they do in my 45. i haven't tested enough in my 38 super to say one way or the other. Cast bullets are hard and the round nose type feed as well as FMJ in my guns. even the flat nose SWC cast bullets feed well for me.
reloading tip: flat nose bullets, such as hollow point or SWC need to be seated deeper in order to fit in a magazine. see http://www.38super.net/Pages/Overall%20Length.html for the reason why.
if you have other questions then try to give us a bit more detail and we forum members will try to help you out.
good luck
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i suppose the simple answer is that if it works, load them that way. Wilson should be the experts on that matter since they know the dimensions of how they cut their chambers.
differences in profile might be an issue depending on at what length the bullet engages the riflings. most round nose bullets ought to work at the length you mention, but your caution is also well founded since you don't want malfunctions due to what might appear to be slight differences due to bullet profile design.
i've used some 45 230 montana gold bullets set at between 1.250-1.254. i've had no malfunctions at that length in a variety of barrels, mostly Kart and Ed Brown. But as i mentioned before, if it works, then there's probably no reason to worry unless you have a particular issue in mind, such as engaging the riflings or pressure.
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as an interesting experiment, place the two chronos in line and shoot over both of them at the same time. if one of them is wacky, it will be obvious in just a few shots.
one thing to watch for with chronos is that sometimes when the sun is out, they can give wonky readings, especially with the screens in place. direct sunlight on the screens can sometime be a problem - don't know why. i've found that overcast skies can be the best conditions for chronographing.
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i'm not sure what tweaking behaviors might change your luck with the STI tubes/followers. others at this forum might have some insightful advice, or perhaps the folks at STI.
i know that with single stack 1911 magazines the angle change is inevitable and does not vary with manufacturer or follower design.
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first off, don't blame STI or anyone else on the planet for the angle of the top round in a magazine. the change in angle of the top round with multiple rounds in the magazine is a result of physics and mechanics. the more rounds that are added to a 1911 magazine, the more the angle of the top round deviates from "normal". and its not just 1911 magazines (or 45ACP) that are prone to this, as other designs have this problem to varying degrees.
there is a very brief description of this at http://www.38super.net/Pages/Overall%20Length.html near the bottom of the page. i am working on a more detailed description of this phenomenom to be added to that website, and i might try to get a version of it published elsewhere (in a magazine, maybe?) since this is a common issue.
in the meantime, full metal jacket round nose bullets will generally feed 100%. Avoid plated bullets since they are actually soft bullets coated with copper. get the rea deal FMJ.
hope this helps
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the Caspian single stack frames are round just like the Colt and SA.
you could contact them and request something special. they do occasional requests.
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as a previous person noted, check to determine the shape of the seating die stem. generally, for flat point bullets (including hollow points), use the flat stem, for round nose bullets, use the round stem.
of course, i'm assuming that Lee seating dies have this option, though i have no personal experience with them. the dillon seating dies have that option.
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I have the S&W 99's twin brother the Walther P99. The Walther has excellent natural pointing characteristics. reliability is great. and it thought it felt about the same as the S&W 99. if you like the natural ergonomics of a handgun, try the CZs. they point beautifully. after i got my hands on one, i bought it, and love it. it points where i point. that's a good thing.
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there is no need to avoid CCI primers. When i first got my SDB and later a 650 both had problems seating primers flush. a call to Dillon resulted in advice to avoid CCI primers. well, they didn't seat other brands flush either. so it wasn't the primers, it was how the machine was adjusted. i corrected that and all brand of primers seat just fine.
i've had excellent results with the CCI primers and after some 100,000 CCI primers seated with Dillon presses i think that resolves the primer brand issue with Dillon presses. i also use Federal and Winchester, and Remington. my 650 feeds them all reliably though i have experienced minor problems with the Winchester. i'm sure the post from the next reader will say that she/he has had no problem with Winchester primers but problems with all other brands.
posts from individuals on this website have suggested that some users have problems with brand X but not brands Y and Z. i think it boils down to minor variations in the loading machines (even though they might be the same model) for unknown reasons - minor differences in tolerances between machines and not the primers themselves.
your press might have issues with a brand of primers, but it might not. but i seriously doubt its the primers - its just your particular machine. and that's okay. feed it what it likes.
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FYI, Winchester Action Pistol is still around. it is now being sold by Ramshot and is now called Silhouette. i emailed them some time back after i heard this as a rumor and they verified it. but feel free to ask them for yourself, they were very helpful.
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I started using a P14-45 LDA for production - same mags as my limited gun. the trigger takes a little experinece to get used to if you are a 1911 user, but its managable. for example, my classifier percent score is the same as my L-10 and Open percent score, so it hasn't been all that difficult to learn.
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if you use CORBON ammo for carry, make sure to try a few rounds through your gun and check for signs of excess pressure in the primer. If primer flow is excessive it can plug the firing pin hole in your slide and render the gun inoperative. that would be a bad thing if you're using it for self defense.
for more information on this topic and some pictures of what to look for check out this site :
http://www.38super.net/Pages/Factory2.html
good luck
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i've also been thinking of putting a commander slide on a government frame, but was planning on a different method. i think i recall from Layne Simpson's book that he said his gunsmith cut material from the slide's recoil plug housing to allow the slide to travel farther to the rear. would that method work as well?
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i've heard that the Winchesters are the next softest after Federal.
Some folks claim that the remingtons are as hard as the CCIs.
i have no data to support any of this. this is all hearsay from this and other forums.
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not so long ago i asked them about one of their other ramped guns. they were using the Wilson/Nowlin ramp.
but don't take my word for it. feel free to email them with your question. they have happily responed to all my inquiries.
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right, the maximum overall length for the 9X23 is 1.300 inches. but that might be a bit long for some magazines, since i suspect they are intended to fit in existing 38 super (maximum OAL = 1.280) magazines because i doubt they designed new ones for the 9x23 and the 9X23 has to fit in the same guns anyway.
generally speaking, flat nose bullets have to be seated deeper than round nose bullets to fit in the magazine. a very long-winded explanation of why that is the case can be found at: http://38super.net/Pages/Overall%20Length.html.
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one important feature for reliable feeding is that the bullet nose must be hard! cast bullets are generally made from an alloy (lead, tin, antimony) that makes them hard. swaged bullets are soft since the lead is pressed into a mold. these tend to be sticky because the lead is soft and readily deforms. plated bullets - many of which are simply swaged bullets with a thin coat of copper are also commonly soft, though i remember buying plated cast bullets in the old days and they were hard, but they were also obviously cast - still had the grease groove.
cast round nose can feed as reliably as FMJ much of the time. cast SWC can also feed reliably because they are hard. however, their flat nose is subject to feeding problems because the nose is flat. they might run just fine for you.
swaged and plated bullets can be rather iffy with respect to feeding, especially if they come from a full magazine where the nose-dive angle is more prominent than when there are fewer rounds in the magazine.
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ruready,
its sounds like you have a typical problem of nose dive when there are lots of rounds in the mag, and in combination with those darn soft plated bullets.
i don't know how to solve the nose dive (but i have a reasonable idea of what causes it), but using regular full metal jacket bullets should solve the feeding problem
i'm writing stuff on nose dive feed failures and will have it posted on my website soon - whatever that means. in the meantime you can get a somewhat better idea of what is happening if you go to http://www.38super.net/Pages/Overall%20Length.html and check out Table 3 and Figure 6. and read the "angle of cartridge in the magazine" section. heck, read the whole thing if you enjoy self abuse.
this problem is inherent in 1911 magazines, and likely many others. understanding it is the first step.
as i said, i'll be adding more information on this topic to this website in the near future. until then, switch to honest FMJ round nose bullets.
by the way, its not your magazines. in fact i see this in all brands of magazines and all brand of followers.
New 38 Super Straline Brass
in Miscellaneous BEginners
Posted
HSMITH is right, the new stuff sucks. one way to reduce (not stop!) the problem is to bevel both the inside and outside of the case mouth ever so slightly with a reamer - one of the old hand held type works fine. but this takes time and extra effort, and i'm not inclined to that sort of behavior.
so i get around this by mixing new brass with my cleaned, fired brass in the dillon 650 case feader. the dirty brass prevents the build-up of the brass particles from the newly cut case mouths and the problem goes away. imagine loading one new, one old, one new, one old.....