TalkingMonkey
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Posts posted by TalkingMonkey
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Doug Koenig recommends switching to your left hand if you are right-handed but left-eye dominant. Based on your results above, I would tend to agree.
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Depending on the RO, you are typically given around 5min to inspect the stage and figure out your plan. The RO should have given you the number of targets and round count during the briefing so I always recommend the first thing you do during your walk-through is to make sure to account for all the targets – sometimes the stage designer likes to hide targets in places you might not have noticed. This portion of USPSA is sometimes a little stressful for shooters that are used IDPA because there are usually more targets and when you’re new, the stage plan might be obvious. You might also feel some pressure as time is winding down on the walk-through and you still haven’t quite figured out what to do. If you decide to shoot production, just try to break the stage up into groups of 4 or 5 targets per position and reload while moving to the next position. I shoot production and carry four spare mags on my belt and have yet to go for the fourth.
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Since many of the clubs in my area have switched from 3gun to UML this year, most of the guys I shoot with have started shooting the PCC-only division. They seem to prefer shooting their PCCs in multi-gun matches over USPSA for some reason.
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Hello. A local club started hosting Steel Challenge matches recently and I’m thinking of giving it a try. I’d like to use my 10/22 but would like to get a red dot sight for it. I have a friend that can get me great deals on Vortex optics so I’m considering the Venom. First of all, would this be a good choice? And second, would a 6MOA or 3MOA dot be preferred? Thanks!
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The 510C Elite is available for $287.09 shipped from Optics Planet with code 13RDS. Code is good through the 16th.
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I've been using a pair of Invictus Rack 12Qs and so far am very happy with them. Retention is good, but not overly aggressive, and I love how adjustable they are for cant and rotation. They're expensive, but think of it as a buy-once, cry-once situation.
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On 6/9/2018 at 2:50 PM, BirdTown said:
I also have started to have an occasional FTF with my M3000 and this only developed after about 2000 rounds. The shell shows very light hit on the primer. Cleaned it completely, including pulling the firing pin. Still does it about once, twice per 100 shots. Any ideas??
Benelli click?
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I have a borrowed TTI M2 that does this as well. It is super annoying. It seems like I need to consciously apply pressure on that second shell in the direction of the stop to make sure it stays put and doesn't get thrown back onto the lifter. Is this a tuning issue with the shell stop or just an inherent part of the design? I know that Stoegers use a different shell stop design and I've never had this issue with one of them.
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18 hours ago, louu said:
Not sure what tube it comes with but shooters source has +2 extensions for the Nordic mtx tubes, get a new spring too. I have the nordic tube with this and it runs perfect.
https://www.shooterssource.com/shooters-source-1-red-4123.html
Thanks for the link, but those threads look way finer than what is on the FS.
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Picked up my M3K Freedom Series from the FFL this weekend. I did not realize that Stoeger just extended the magazine tube to hold 10 +1 rounds - I thought they included a conventional magazine extension with the gun.
It's not the end of the world, but I'm a little bummed that there isn't an easy way to switch to a 12-round tube if I want to. Hopefully MOA or someone else will make a +2 end cap for the FS!
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17 hours ago, Mercs said:
Amazing this works for me as well!!! I used your methodology at the range today and shot dead straight! I also have a very strong grip, and noticed I’m using different muscles and it gets tiring when I’m doing it right. I’m gonna keep working on it until I can rapid fire with the same consistent stroke, it’s a little difficult at first. I had to say thanks so much for sharing!
Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkThis makes me very happy - thanks for letting us know! Glad it worked for you!
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On 6/20/2018 at 1:58 PM, redpillregret said:
Good info, thank you. The money I was going to slowly devote to a CZ I just may spend on a Dillon and reloading components/gear and perhaps a class with a GM.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
This is a great plan. Some of the best shooters in my area are using relatively stock Glocks and M&Ps. I know several guys who have switched from Glocks to CZs and guess what, they still can't touch those top guys with their plastic guns. It really is all about the fundamentals.
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2 minutes ago, Mercs said:
I will give this a try. I think I have the same issue, in that pulling straight back (my perception) isn’t really straight back. Ah the wonders of the human brain
Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkWhen I first started the relearning process, I found that my finger would get fatigued pretty quickly with the new pulling direction. I have a pretty strong grip from years of deadlifting but using my finger in this way was pretty weak. If you think about gripping a bar, your whole finger curls inward. I think that since this is movement I am strong in, it's what I was reverting to when shooting fast and ultimately caused shots to get pushed left. It has taken a lot of dry fire to strengthen the correct motor pathways and not rotate the index finger's proximal phalanx inward while pulling the trigger.
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On 6/27/2018 at 11:45 AM, lgh said:
Are you saying you literally curved your finger and put the tip on the trigger? You can achieve the same thing by just putting more finger on the trigger. i.e. first knuckle on the trigger instead of finger tip.
Not literally. I started pulling the trigger such that it felt like i was pulling the outer left side of the trigger toward the right rear edge of the grip. Mind you, that's just what it felt like, but in reality, I was now actually pulling straight back. I had to exaggerate the pull to the right because what I thought was straight back, wasn't. In other words, I had to trick my finger into relearning was straight back meant by overcompensating initially.
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On 6/4/2018 at 6:10 PM, kurtm said:
It only took 5 years for the collective knowledge base to forget.
Kurt, does your alignment gauge work on Stoegers?
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I look at the first target and try to draw the gun up into my sight picture.
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I had this problem as well. I'm generally pretty accurate, but during an IDPA practice session late last fall I noticed that all of my non-zero hits were to the left (I'm a righty). I had an epiphany that I must have a trigger control issue that I didn't realize before. It certainly felt like I was pulling the trigger straight back on my Glock, but the holes in the cardboard don't lie. Since I felt l was pulling straight back but clearly wasn't, I figured I needed to overcompensate and try to curve my finger in and try to pull the trigger towards the right (this is what it felt like, but in reality, this was pulling straight back). The first match after starting to work on this - zero down for the entire match, but only 5th overall because I had to slow down and concentrate on every trigger pull more than usual. After working on it all Winter in dry-fire, it feels much more natural now and I don't have to think about it nearly as much. Relearning those motor pathways takes time, but so far it's been worth it.
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Kentucky Gun Co currently has a pretty good deal on the M3K Freedom Series - $549.31 shipped. Figured that with the 10+1 magazine extension included that's a good price so I picked one up. I see a lot of recommendations to deburr the extractor slot on these. I watched Huch's video on how to remove the pin, but what exactly is involved with deburring the slot? What methods are used and is there anything I need to be careful of (like don't remove too much material in a certain spot)? I apologize if this was already covered - I searched but didn't find anything.
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I noticed that the adapter adds a little bit of length to the attachment interface - how is the reach to the trigger with the adapter+Magpul stock? Is it still less reach than the factory stock? Anyone know when the adapter might be available from MOA again?
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1 hour ago, Cavediver said:
Good to know!
For anyone else looking, Walnut Creek has 'em for a great price and free shipping. (I tried the usual sources whom I'd like to support, but could not find it in stock)
https://www.walnutcreekoutdoors.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=LSP-10823&CartID=1
Thanks for the heads-up. Just ordered an M3K and was interested in picking one of these up!
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Kentucky Gun Co currently has a pretty good deal on the M3K Freedom Series so I ended up ordering one. I figure I can theoretically run it right out of the box for the remainder of the season and then have it worked on this Winter once I determine exactly what I would like done to it.
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Had an opportunity to borrow another friend’s MOA M3K. The gun seems to run well but recoil is noticeably more firm than the M2 with the Comfortech stock – no surprise there. What is really annoying, however, is how the Stoeger punches me in the face. It seems that to correctly align my eye, I need to bury my face into the stock a bit more than the M2 - it definitely doesn’t seem to fit me as well. I know the Stoeger comes with shims for the stock – would these fix this issue if I decide to buy one?
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I’m just getting into 3gun and so far have been using either my basic Mossberg 500 or a borrowed TTI M2 (I know - complete opposite ends of the spectrum). It’s time I got a decent semi-auto shotgun of my own. Obviously the TTI M2 is sweet and pretty much satisfies all of my criteria, but I would prefer to not spend that much. For similar money, it looks like one could buy a Stoeger M3000 / M3K and have it worked over my MOA precision or a stock Beretta 1301 Comp with a magazine extension.
The MOA Stoeger would have all the modifications needed for competition and I’m already used to the manual of arms, however, the “M3000 Scattergun” thread has quite a few posts about various issues that worry me. To be fair, I don’t know if any of the problem guns were tuned by MOA. One of my biggest requirements is reliability, and ideally, the ability to run even cheap Walmart Winchester or Federal ammo without drama - I’m concerned about the Stoeger being able to do this. And I should add that I don't have much time or interest in tinkering and chasing issues myself.
From my research, the 1301 has a great reputation for reliability and as a bonus is known to be softer shooting. My concern is how deep the magazine tube sits in the loading port and how that would hinder the ability to quad load. There is also a minor concern about 922r compliance with the addition of a magazine tube.
So what do you guys think: MOA Stoeger or 1301 Comp?
RCI M2
in Shotgun - Technical
Posted
I'm curious, which gun were you using that doesn't run?