attakmint
-
Posts
91 -
Joined
Content Type
Forums
Profiles
Events
Store
Posts posted by attakmint
-
-
How about for those of us with larger noggins? I have a relatively flat, broad face, and wear 7 3/4 hats.
-
I ordered my pants size for the inner and outer belt. The inner is fine but I am only on the 2nd or 3rd hole on the outer belt. It works well enough so I didn't sent it back for a larger size but I would rather have more overlap on the outer. There are holes all the away around the belt so that doesn't matter, however, it's a pain to put the belt on because it's hard to move the keeper loop. If I had more overlap, I could insert the end of the outer belt through the keeper and press the belt down to push the buttons through the holes on the belt. Most people I see with the ELS have about 6 inches of overlap so they are going up by at least 2 or 3 sizes.
Try the Arredondo 1.75" keeper. The one on my ELS broke pretty quickly (within days of getting it). The Arredondo slides a lot better since there's no velcro, and it's one piece of plastic without any buttons to fall apart (where mine failed), so it should be sturdier.
-
I wear a 32"-33" pants, and got a 34" inner and a 36" outer on Safariland's suggestions. The hook side Velcro on the inner overlaps with no spare room (I tend to wear my belt right on the top of my hips) and I've got 5 extra holes on my outer belt.
-
-
-
OK, then what's the deal? I've seen stuff saying that some FFLs can move the s/n to a new location, and in the process they're legally remanufacturing the firearm - it goes from a Beretta 1301 to a "Name of gunsmith" 1301.
-
If you have the right FFL, you can "remanufacture" the firearm when you move the SN to the new position. I emailed Pendergraft since I'm reasonably in the area, and he talked about moving the SN
-
For what it's worth, I ordered a holster + hanger and a few mag pouches Sunday night/Monday morning from BSPS. Got a shipping notification that morning, and it went live... Monday night/Tuesday morning, somewhere around then. I live pretty close to work so I stopped by at lunch and played around with my new toys today (Wednesday).
I ordered some other gear at Brownells at the same time and it's getting here tomorrow.
I'd say that's pretty good shipping.
-
-
Burris MTAC 1-4, but isn't there an affordable Vortex 1-6 that is coming out "soon"?
Vortex Strike Eagle?
-
Broke the edges and polished the face for about 30 seconds with some 800 grit, then went over it with 2000 grit to smooth it out, and it works like a charm. Since it would occasionally release shells from the tube before, I figured "less is more." If anything, I'm worried I took off too much!
When I work the latch to unload the magazine, I can feel the difference. It's no longer dragging a sharp edge over the rim of the shell.
-
Can you get a pic of the broken surface of the metal? Either piece? It might give a clue as to why it broke.
-
So I was taking a look at my new, stock, unfired 1301 tonight and I noticed I have this problem too. Sometimes when there's two shells in the tube and I hit the cartridge stop release it'll throw one onto the lifter, but it's not always guaranteed, and it won't work for any other number of shells in the tube.
What really gives me a clue is that if I hit that stop, the lifter drops, but the latch doesn't fully swing into the position it does with an empty tube. When I push the shell in the tube a tiny bit forward so it takes pressure off the latch for a second, when I release pressure it works as advertised and the cartridge drops onto the lifter. So obviously there's something that's causing drag on the latch, probably the geometry. I'm wondering if somehow during recoil the inertia of the shells takes enough pressure off of the latch for the gun to properly cycle. I'm disappointed because my AL391 that I use for clays has pretty much the exact same manual of arms, and it's always worked like a charm. It's been one of my favorite guns to shoot and was part of the reason I got the 1301.
At least I know that by polishing that latch up a bit it'll fix things. Or maybe getting a stronger spring in the latch...
-
OK, best I could do.
IMG_8447.jpg The hold for slugs is the mid-bead halfway up the front sight-which is close to the pic. If your fit is correct, that should be good out to 100yds. I guess that's what you mean by figure 8. Shotgun patterning is done at 40 yds traditionally - on NRA patterning targets. Then check at 25, 10 or whatever. It's the mount that gets you on target with shot. Look at target, not down the sight for shot. If your mount and fit is right, you should break or knock over whatever you are looking at. Couple threads on this already in technique. I use the 65 drop plate.Yeah, that's a figure 8, where the mid-bead is at the bottom of the FO bead (muzzle bead? What else would you call it?). Thank you for the advice, I'll have to try to convince the range to let me pattern at 50, and to remember to bring slugs next weekend.
I superimpose and slugs hit poa out to 100yds.
Great, thanks!
-
Apologies if this has been covered.
Went to pattern my new 1301 at the local range, only to find out they didn't have a patterning board. For those of you who still use the original mid-bead, are you using a figure 8 hold? Does that tend to throw the shot 50-50 above and below at (say) 10-20 yards and shoot slugs fairly straight? I haven't gotten to adjusting the drop and cast of the stock (couldn't find my socket set), and it's currently superimposing the mid-bead on top of the FO. -
Got stationed at SJAFB in Goldsboro, about an hour outside of Raleigh. Figured I'd start shooting more, and I like competing in general.
Sig P320
in Sig
Posted
Apex Tactical made a drop-in flat face trigger. It's pretty easy to take the FCG down to the point where you can swap it. Not Production legal, obviously. Can't post the link while I'm at work, but if you check out their blog it's the first post.