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Scrmblr

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Posts posted by Scrmblr

    Draw to first shot times...

    in Steel Challenge

    Posted

    A big part of a fast draw is to start towards the guns at the VERY BEGINNING of the beep. It is much like reaction time for a drag racer. Most timers have a half second long beep, so if you aren't even starting towards your gun before the beep is done then you are already a half second behind a guy that has a faster reaction time. I RO alot of steel matches and too many people don't even start for their gun until well AFTER the beep is already done. If you are starting for the gun at the very beginning of the beep, then you should already have your hand to the gun and the gun clear of the holster before the beep is over. A great way to work on this is with slo-mo video that many of the newer smart phones have. Do some slo-mo video of your draw and then watch it. See when you start compared to the start of the beep. See where you are in the draw process when the beep is over. Make sure to use a random start so you don't just get in the habit of knowing when the timer is going to start. Some of the smart phone timer apps can also help with this. I have an app on my iPhone that picks up every little click during my draw. When I am really getting good dryfire draws the timer breakdown is usually something like this. After the start the timer picks up the click of my gun leaving my holster which is usually around .25 seconds. Then the timer app picks up when I click off the safety on my 2011. This is happening as I am getting the gun up to my eye and click off the safety at around .70 seconds. At that point I am well clear of the holster, have the dot up to my eye and I am pushing out to the target. Then the 3rd click is picked up when I finish finding the dot, knowing I have it on the target and drop the hammer....in dryfire this is usually at around .90 seconds on a 12" paper plate at maybe 15 feet. I know when I am not reacting fast enough when the first click is more like a .40, then everything else is also .20-.25 behind resulting in a 1.1-1.2 dryfire draw.

    Scott,

    You have to be careful with reacting to the beep. It's too easy jump the start. Since you told me about that I find myself getting to hyped up after I hear the RO and moving before the beep. I just keep hearing your voice in my head " You have to anticipate the beep after the RO speaks.​​" Guess that's something that comes with lots of practice.

    Bob, I belive what I actually told you was, when at a match whether it is a squad RO that moves along with the squad, or a fixed RO that stays with the stage, I always start listening to the RO's cadence when I am in the hole and on deck. I pay attention to how long they usually wait between the standby and the beep. That way I have a better chance of being able to anticipate when he/she will beep.

    On the other side of the beeping spectrum....I also pay attention to if the RO is an extremely fast beeper. SCSA rules state that the beep be 1-3 seconds after the stand-by command. You will frequently come across ROs with no pause after the SB command to the beep. If they do it to me I don't move after the beep then remind them that there needs to be a minimum 1 second. If someone short-beeps you and you don't move towards the gun they have to start you over and you cannot be penalized. If they beep you and you even flinch or start towards the gun, you bought the run.

    As long as you don't have access to the trigger, it's not a "draw".

    Per Rulebook:

    "Draw ................................The point at which a handgun is removed or disengaged from the holster so as to allow access to any portion of the interior of the trigger guard."

    Square Deal B

    in Dillon Precision Reloading Equipment

    Posted

    Oh to respond to Dillon, you guys were super awesome on the phone, I just figured it was a good time to send for the refurbishment. My bad luck was cancelled by the awesome Dillon no BS warranty.

    Sent from my ASUS_Z00AD using Tapatalk

    Mine had seen much more use than your Inspector1999, weird that yours broke first.

    Ben stoeger edition stock 2

    in Tanfoglio (EAA / IFG)

    Posted

    Buying the same fishing reels and poles don't guarantee the same catches, but you don't see many cane-pole bobber rigs in the bass boats. And very few people need the high speed gear the pros of any sport use. Run the gear that makes you happy. For 99.9% of those out there, it's just fantasy camp anyway. Bottom line is that practically nobody shoots their equipment to the bloody edge of its capability. Have fun.

    Mossberg 930 JM light strikes

    in Shotgun - Technical

    Posted

    Once you get the piston and rings clean, make sure you don't use any wet lube products. A dry film spray using PTFE/Teflon works great, and keeps mine running like crazy! Gunk and WD make a good one. I use it on anything involving the gas system or magazine tube. It doesn't attract debris or dirt/dust, and doesn't cause drag that liquid lubes do.

    2011 for smaller hands (CK Arms ?)

    in 1911-style Pistols

    Posted · Edited by Scrmblr

    How often do you find the need to release the slide with your strong hand? For 1911/2011 platform I use my support hand as it slides into its position, (if my plan goes poorly and I somehow end up at slide lock). For my Tanfoglio Stock 2, I don't even worry about it, the slide auto-forwards when the mag is seated. For the mag release, there are extension options that should work for you on your CZ especially in Limited, I believe there are some different safties you can run that should reduce or emilinate the side that annoys you. Unless you really want to make the gun swap, I'd work on your grip and controls before jumping into the deep end of the 2011 pool. But JMHO, enjoy whatever you choose!

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