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4n2t0
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Posts posted by 4n2t0
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On 4/8/2021 at 2:23 AM, ysrracer said:
Yep, 231 is soft, Titegroup is violent and dirty.
Violent? lol.
I can't believe the $hit that some people make up.
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Why the multiple threads? Create 1 thread (or a spreadsheet) that you constantly update/edit instead of creating a new thread every time you test a load!
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Load so that at it's longest the round still functions properly in your firearm(s) and move on with life. People are too fixated on issue that make little to no difference.
Words have never rung truer:
On 3/24/2021 at 5:54 PM, leam said:I've looked at better dies, but really, I'm a D class shooter right now. Biggest things I need are practice and safety. And a 5 PF "fudge factor".
P.S. I don't use any special dies, I just make sure my setup is tight and I get approximately ~ 0.005 variance with mixed brass, Dillon dies and a 650.
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Fast(er) powders like Titegroup.
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EGW gauge? If so, toss it in the trash to automatically fix all your gauging issues.
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Maybe the information above (none of it mine) can be made into a sticky? Providing an internal link would be a lot less work, lol.
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1 hour ago, davsco said:
max oal is just short of where you can't spin the round in the chamber because it's touching the lands?
and/or magazine restriction (usually when loading very long). Sometimes, again rare, length can cause feeding issues. Obviously in this situation selecting an OAL that fixes the problem is required.
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38 minutes ago, rooster said:
Most shooters strive for around 135pf, trying to get close to 125 is asking for trouble. The chronos can be off, you might be shooting in cold wheather, bullet weights vary. If your around 130 to 135pf that .020 doesn’t matter. Your die is not going to be off .020. The variation for 9mm is +or- .010. And that’s generous. You’ll be more like .005 max.
You keep smashing these outta the park!
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5 hours ago, rooster said:
I’ve found in 9mm you can get variation as much as .010 plus or minus. If your looking for less than .001 forget it. It used to drive me nuts but I’ve learned to live with it. There are just too many variables that you can’t control. Bullet length, bullet ogive, mixed brass, the way you work the press, and probably more that I can’t think of. The die seats off the ogive and the manufactures get that pretty close, so even though your oal might vary the amount of bullet that in the case is pretty much spot on, and that’s what matters. When loading 9mm after finding your max oal, for that barrel you shorten that by .015, to .020 and call it good. Otherwise you’ll go nuts trying for that perfect oal.
Exactly!
Like I said...believing minute differences actually matter.
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Use the FMJ data for any 147gr bullet. Some that I've used before: TG @ 3.5gr, WST @ 3.8gr, WSF @ 4.1gr, Bullseye @ 3.5gr, Unique @ 4.1gr, Clays @ 3.3gr (WARNING - OVER BOOK MAX BUT OH SO GOOD!).
Always determine your own OAL (I post this at least once a week, lol)
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18 hours ago, adamastergunner said:
I am shooting USPSA Limited Minor and these differences can cause issues when going to chrono. Any help in setting this up to not have a huge OAL difference would be greatly appreciated.
That's where most problems start, believing minute differences actually matter.
You should have just stuck with your original equipment.
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I'm not sure if anyone has mentioned it yet but you probably won't see any difference.
LMAO...
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18 minutes ago, Service Desk said:
There have been many other styles, types and brands used over the years.. but they all have the same problem...too much crimp has a potential to expose raw bullet material....and that can cause a whole HEAP of upset in terms of bullet performance. Darrell is absolutely on the money... and I thank him for his contributions on the matter.
Huh? You should re-read Darrells post, He's stating the exact opposite, lol.
Is he still "absolutely on the money"?
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19 hours ago, Darrell said:
I don't think anyone on this forum has tested coated bullets more than I have.
And we're all better for it, thank you!
19 hours ago, Darrell said:You should crimp at least .001" because just taking the bell out (.380") may fail to gauge depending on bullet sizing.
Yup, we covered that...
20 hours ago, 4n2t0 said:You should always apply little to no crimp (.377 - .379 at the case mouth). Your just ironing out the flare you created earlier in the reloading process.
19 hours ago, Darrell said:I have put a roll crimp on 148 gr coated wadcutter bullet seated below the case and roll crimped slightly above with no tearing of the coating or lead so that theory about too much crimp is is invalid to a point.
We'll have to agree to disagree. I don't know, maybe our concepts of "to a point" differ because I know that severely cut coatings can have a direct impact on accuracy/leading.
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14 minutes ago, Darrell said:
I bell the mouth .390 for coated bullets and crimp .378. No issues and loaded thousands. I've crimped coated bullets down to .375 and never scrapped the coating, the only time the coating/lead scraped was from not belling the mouth enough which drastically affected accuracy. Do a search for my name and look at the latest spread sheet I uploaded. You will see that when I first loaded DG bullets I had over 4" groups, after belling more same load shot under 2 inches with a best of 1.36"
You can definitely cut (not scrape) the coating by crimping too much, I see it all the time. You're at .378, which I consider no crimp (although technically crimped, lol)
Fortunately, the OP doesn't have your flaring problem...
2 hours ago, gunner40sw said:This is the first time loading coated bullets for me so my question is about the amount of crimp. I would think you will want as little as possible if any at all. My bell worked perfect no shaving at all and a nice tight seat. Should or could I leave them at that or should I give a little crimp
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You should always apply little to no crimp (.377 - .379 at the case mouth). Your just ironing out the flare you created earlier in the reloading process.
Remember, sizing (not crimping) holds the bullet in place and deters setback. You crimp revolver rounds, usually at the cannelure, because unfired revolver rounds have a tendency to creep.
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You haven't provided us with the important information.
1) Bullet name and type/style. (e.g. BBI, TC)
2) Does your sizing die touch the shellplate? It should, if not re-read the dies instructions carefully.
3) Are the bullets being seated straight? A MBF powder funnel can help.
4) How did you determine the OAL? LINK to "How to determine OAL"
5) What's the case mouth measurement? It should be around .377 - .379.
6) What type of case gauge are you using? Hopefully not a EGW.
7) Post a picture of the failed rounds.
P.S. Generally lead/coated bullet are sized a little larger than the standard .355 FMJ, so .356 isn't abnormal.
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Slowly loosen the shellplate until it JUST starts to move with very little/no resistance. Also, I don't load HAP's but you might want to flip the seating stem over to see if it will produce a more consistent overall length off the ogive (if even possible???)
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1) Which end of the seating stem are you using?
2) All stations must be filled to get consistent seating.
3) I use Dillon dies exclusively. When the shellplate is tightened properly on my 650 I get very little variation in length.
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Bulk food store--->citric acid.
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I'll admit that at first glance the round looked a little short to me but 1.10 is not unheard of and that exact same ammo worked well in several of the OP's CZ's (which I assumed was the reason for the 1.10 OAL). I did also drop this little nugget...
5 hours ago, 4n2t0 said:What's the case mouth measurement on those "bad" rounds? You should be around .377-.379.
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I'm not sure about major but in minor I can see a spread of ~10 fps difference amongst all primer brands.
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15 hours ago, AHI said:
Can you increase your overall length? If you can try it out. You should not have to load so short.
You are crimping at a point that appears to far up on the bullet. Thus alowing the Round to go to
Far in the chamber.
So ammo with shorter OAL's chamber further???
OP: Your charge weight is below max and your length is good (if it plunks). What's the case mouth measurement on those "bad" rounds? You should be around .377-.379. Don't over crimp plated bullets.
After all that I'd start looking at the gun. Sigs are blowing up all over the internet, lol. Just Google Sig P365XL battery issues.
softest powder for 125gr
in 9mm/38 Caliber
Posted · Edited by 4n2t0
Stop mindlessly regurgitating crap you read on the internet and start thinking for yourself, eh!