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Avenida

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Posts posted by Avenida

  1. On 6/3/2019 at 2:24 PM, billthemarine2862 said:

    Ya, I agree that is probably an issue with the extractor or spring most likely.   I have seen some posts from other folks around here complaining about brass hitting the glass of their R1 so it certainly isn't an uncommon issue.

     

    Will have to wait and see what happens if I decide to grab a 320 Legion.

     

    Or if Max launches a steel frame variant one day. 

     

    If they ever make enough 226 LDC's so that it becomes production legal I would have that milled and shoot it in CO as well.  That is my personal favorite non-x5 226 sig of all.  That thing is a tack driver and crazy heavy!


    1911 spring.... in a 9mm pistol...

    you need to bring it close to 10lbs.

     

    the spring is design for 45 major PF, not mickey mouse 9mm.

     

    of course it will eject like that whit a heavy spring...

  2. The redding comp die is a headache with coated bullets, it removes the bell so it scratches everything. There is a hole thread about it. I had it and sold it.

     

    all these dies combos make no sense, the lee die does Nothing to remove bulge at the crimp station and the crimp is no different than any other crimp.

     

    only way to remove bulge (efficiently) in .40 is rolling your brass (or any caliber)

     

    The bulge cannot be removed using a die mounted on a press, brass is only undersized to fit the chamber up to a certain degree i.e. Not one die will ever correctly size the web because it is physically impossible, as it cannot reach the web as when your die touches your plate first. 

    Real bulged brass will have a bulged web as well and these pieces will crease when sizing with a longer die on a press.

     

    In a nutshell:

    1-you can load with ANY die system provided your brass is in good shape. 
    2-some small bulges are reduced by longer dies.

    3-real oversized bulged brass  at the web cannot be sized with regular dies short or long, unless you roll at the web back down to saami.

     

    dont waste money on dies. Use good brass and a roll sizer and that is it.

     

    talking from experience after wasting money on magic dies.

     

  3. been following this thread because I now want a 1301. 

    I am only 5'6 and 160lbs so not sure I want a 24", here in Canada, IPSC shotgun is not popular at all nor are 3gun competitions, so not sure if will get used for that. I want a Beretta that is a good all rounder, a jack of all trades and due to my height and weight I am leaning towards the 21. I owned a Urika2 that was 28 and that felt like a fishing pole to me, owned others in between and never tried something shorter. The urika felt too long.

    Sorry for derailing the thread but just wanted to ask for opinions on 21 vs 24. BTW I am not recoil sensitive nor a puss puss, I am relatively well built and strong. just saying, lol

  4. 13 hours ago, PGGUNS said:

     

    I just did a class in which I went through around 700-725 rounds without a cleaning and at the very end of the day the gun had it’s first malfunction of a failure to eject a round.  By the way that’s the first real malfunction I’ve had with the gun since the disco was replaced from my first outing with the gun.  Got home to clean and it was pretty gunked up.  Personally, I like my 2011 to run smooth so I clean pretty much after any match or range session which typically are 300-400 rounds.  I’ll also add that not once did I take apart my MBX mags to clean the springs during that day and they had no issues at all.

     

    I guess that is a very respectable number for a gun that is tight as a 1911/2011. There were never designed to be shot that much before being cleaned anyway I think, but I could be wrong.

  5. 3 hours ago, lroy said:

     

    They recommend being fairly generous with oil. I haven't heard them say anything about grease. I've ran molly grease in my honcho and had no issues though, other than on a cold day.


    great to know thanks.

     

    how long can you go in between cleanings?

  6. E3 sounds good but it is not listed as a handgun powder unlike the other shotgun powders that are, so that begs the questions, WHY it is not if it is that good?

     

    I am not saying you are wrong, I am just one of those curious minds.

     

    I have been browsing for powder and I can get E3, WST or 320.

     

    I am certainly purchasing 320 because I know it works.

    WST is cheap but being in Canada, having a temp sensitive powder sucks. It also smokes.

    Now last E3, I can get 8lbs cheap but I am worried that if I do and it does not work well in my gun then I am stuck with a lot of powder. I cannot get a pound of the stuff because it is being shipped from the other side of the country.

     

    Any experiences here with E3 and Campro bullets in a SVI (major load).

     

    Thank you

  7. curious about lubrication needs on this platform. I am asking from ignorance really as I have never held one.

     

    I am currently running red and tacky grease in my SVI and I really like it, if it is cold I only need to break it with whatever oil (nothing gun specific) and it runs flawlessly. There is 0 indication of wear on my gun since I started using grease.

     

    I would like to continue using grease in the honcho, as I am considering getting one in the near future, but since I know very little and this gun is non existent in Canada I can't really see fo myself.

     

    Educate me please if you have the chance, thanks!

  8. I need to replace 320 to work up a .40SW major load.

     

    320 is hard to find and costs twice as much.. There gotta be something else that is just as good.

     

    I think I can find E3 (nationally) but I am not sold on it since it is a shotshell powder... I need to do some research

  9. I am the kind of guy that takes the gun apart after every use. the buffer I use is not rubbery but more like a solid plastic with some flex to it, so when it gets dented it shows... in other words, after 1500 rounds still looks like new with zero deformation.

    My friend runs the same buffer but with a lighter recoil spring and in 1000 rounds you start to see some noticeable wear on the buffer.

     

     

  10. 6 hours ago, yigal said:

    25 y. ago I was part of a team sponsored  by a gun manufacturer. I was the only one who used the buffers that i made  and the slide never broke and everything else of the team would break.


    I remember reading your story in another thread. Thank you for posting.

     

    I guess that based on this you would recommend a buffer regardless of recoil spring?

  11. Been browsing old threads from 10 years ago, to other close to 4-5 years ago but there was not anything in the last year.

    I have seen a lot of recommendations for Titegroup which is probably one of the worst powders as it runs very hot, not very stable and quite dirty as well....

     

    So... hoping for some recommendations current to 2020 and see if we are still running 320 or there is perhaps something that comes closer and it is just as good and also costs less...

     

    lol. Anyway. Thanks!

  12. 2 hours ago, motosapiens said:

    e3, red dot, ba9.5, imr red, sport pistol

    all outstanding substitutes for n320 and much cheaper. there are probably others too.

     

    tell me more please, as much as I like 320 it is ridiculously expensive and hoping to save a few bucks for the best substitute is the price is considerable.

     

     

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