NateTSU
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Posts posted by NateTSU
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I put a Zev tech connector and spring kit in my 34, thought it was a big improvement over the stock trigger and was a pretty cheap upgrade.
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I don't think its nesccisary, but when you do clean use a bore guide good cleaning rod like a Dewey and whatever your favorite solvent is. I do run a few patches down the bore when I first get the barrel to make sure there is no debri from the manufacturing process left in the barrel.
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Good info, I think I'm going to pull the trigger on getting one of these.
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The price is what jumped out at me, it's relativly cheap. As long as it works well and I'm not just wasting money on something that will wind up sitting on my work bench. I still have an A2 flash hider so I don't think it would take much performance to beat what I have now. It will be on a 16 inch barrel for now but I do plan on upgrading to an 18 inch with a rifle length gas system.
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https://dsgarms.com/ndccmp-nc-tc-556
Anybody using this comp? It seems like a good price but haven't seen any reviews on these. I use the rifle primarily for multigun but I do hunt with it some.
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Concerning price…. Alexander Arms makes a really usable complete upper in 6.5 Grendel for around $800. For me, that was a fairly affordable way to get into a longer range cartridge that didn't necessitate a new lower or separate rifle. The glass you put on it is another matter
^This^
800 is not a bad price to get into Precision rifle, pair it with a good lower that you already have. Factory ammo is crazy accurate, or handloads with 107s- 123grain bullets and go to town. Berger, Hornady, Sierra, Nosler all make great variety of 6.5's in hunting and match/target bullets. It also doubles as a great hunting round for medium game.
Now for the glass....buy once cry once!
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It somewhat depends on bullet weight and barrel length, that being said I don't think you could go wrong with Benchmark, XBR or Varget. These are very versatile powders that work well with the 223 and many other cartridges.
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I have started reading Brian's book, made me really think about the way I approach a match/stage.
1. better stage planning, once I decided what I was going to do I stuck with it and didn't change it based on another shooters strategy.
2. don't worry about the pressure of being watched/being judged by your piers. I relaxed and just focused on the shooting. I focused on shooting my best instead of trying to shoot as fast as the best guy in the squad.
3. I didn't try any new techniques, I stuck to the fundamentals and stuck to what I had practiced.
4. I focused on what to DO and not on what I SHOLD NOT do.
This was by far the best match I had shot yet.
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Dauntedfuture you might also give Hybrid V100 its a great powder for 6.5x284 little slower burn rate and a little more case volume compared to H4350. I think the 6.5x284 really shines in F-Class along with the "straight" 284. even saw some 7wssm.
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It's a ss barrel I found a load using 55gr vmax I'm getting around 2in at 100 now. Do any of you clean the copper out of the barrel I ask because I haven't cleaned the barrel other than running a bore snake through it in about 400 rounds and now its getting about 2in.
Couldn't hurt anything to try it, some barrels shoot best clean some shoot better dirty. Personally I like Wipe Out/Patch Out super easy and fast, it does a really good job. I know quite a few benchrest shooters who use this product. Did you do any kind of a break in? I didn't see anything about how you were shooting prone with sandbags, bipod, mechanical rest? that might also have something to do with it. Nothing about your scope either, could have an issue with your glass, wouldn't hurt to check the mounts to make sure everything is tight.
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That is great accuracy, I was considering a 69smk for long range and a 55gr fbhp(currently shooting varmint nightmares) for varmint hunting and the close range 3gun stages. I have heard nothing but good things about Nordic barrels.
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Everybody knows that one guy, had a co-worker try to tell me he shot a running blackbuck from a jeep while they were chasing it! all I could say is wow.
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, most I know don't believe anything less than 30 cal will kill groundhogs. Some do concede that on a good day, a 7mm could kill a small squirrel or a big mouse though, I guess that's progress in the right direction.
Very accurate statement it always cracks me up when people talk about having to have a 300 Ultra Mag to kill a whitetail. I try not to laugh, they don't seem to grasp the concept of a bad shot or miss with a Magnum rifle is still a bad shot or a miss.
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For what it's worth, I built a new 3 gun rifle and used a nordic upper/lower and a nordic 18" barrel. I love the gun and it shoots lights out! Great combo.
Does your Nordic barrel have the rifle length gas system? I am considering a Nordic barrel and has hoping to get some feedback. What kind of groups are you getting with your setup?
I am thinking of using the rifle for a little bit of everything and just changing the optic as needed. A 3 gun rifle, a small game hunting rifle coyotes/pigs/deer and even the possibility of a prairie dog rifle.
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The 6.5x284 is a great cartridge but everyone knows about the barrel life(or lack there of) But barrels are expendable
I cant say I have ever heard of this cartridge in a short action, I have a 260 short action and a 140 A-Max does not fit in the magazine so I cant imagine how a 6.5x284 would fit. I have heard about the 26 Nosler, haven't seen one and don't know anybody with one, I bet they will have a have a hard tome getting people to switch from the 7mm Mag or 300 Win mag to the 26. Almost seems like a solution without a problem.
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They work, they just probably won't make the most accurate ammo, although that depends on your level of OCD as well.
Agreed if plinking or hosing targets is the goal Lee is fine but if you wanted to get all the potential out of your rifle I would go with better quality dies.
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I would spend a few dollars more and get a set of Redding or RCBS dies, better quality and easier to adjust the Redding in my opinion.
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+1 for the TTI, the are a very well made product.
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I just checked a dozen or so rounds, measures out to .379, pulled one and no damage to the coating at all. I must just have too hot of a load, I will back it down to 3.8 and test those out.
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Will pulling the bullet damage the coating? How do you measure the crimp? Just calipers on the case mouth of a loaded round?
I am going to load up a test batch at 3.8 and see how those turn out. From the sounds of it so far I have too hot of a charge and possibly am over crimping.
Thanks for the tips everybody.
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I am shooting the 125gr flat point coated. I have them loaded pretty short at 1.040 not much bearing surface that it is out of the case, I will chamber a few and take a look and see if the coating is being scraped off. I was starting to wonder if I have them seated too deep and causing a pressure spike?
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Same here about the cleaning, I use Montana Extreme Cowboy Action Blend( supposed to help get the lead out) and scrub the sh*t out of it. It turns into a pain in the neck really quickly.
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I will try dropping it to 4.0gr and test. And you are right I have been loading red dot out of necessity,it and power pistol been all I have been able to find. Would Power Pistol or Unique be a better option than Red Dot? I have about a pound of all 3 powders left.Red Dot is a little too fast for most small case lead loads. Due to the hardness of the bullet it is leading from melting of the base of the bullet instead of swelling out and sealing properly going down the bore.
You might try a lead bullet that is a little softer, or try a slower powder like Titegroup, 231, etc......I know...you have red dot and not the others.....You can lower the load but that may not help.....
DougC
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What's your velocity on that load?
I'm not sure I don't have a chrograph, and none of my friends have one either.
Best Bullet Weight for Minor
in 9mm/38 Caliber
Posted
Currently shooting 125's but I think I'm going to give the 147's a try when I run out of my 125's. Everyone seems to swear by a 147 and 13lb recoil spring.