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Nickb45

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Posts posted by Nickb45

  1. I'm a machinist, I know a blade smith. The blade smith I know does all his work on grinders, he makes some beautiful blades, he also does some amazing Damascus work.

    I got this piece of material from him and I did the machine work.

    dd6b3c466491f42383ab8cc81cea6da9_zpsa7f6

    bc0c1969593e6ac4de61ed4ad5b3ba16_zpsb5fe

    7a705f771238d273721b6c66a991fc27_zps308c

    875afab3d5fe02609f84e2238a52d43d_zpsd85e

    Since I made that, I have hung out at his shop and started a few knives by hand and forged some Damascus that I haven't made anything out of yet.

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  2. The muzzle light "Feel" you are trying to achieve is 100% personal preference. You can spend a lot of money and waste a lot of time trying to find a "Magical" setup.

    One thing you may want to consider before hacking on anything is actually proving if a lighter gun makes any difference in your shooting performance. Setup some drills that test aggressive wide transitions and shoot them with your gun and your buddies gun. Then score the targets and tally the on target hits to see which one is actually better or not.

    Most people think that a gun setup "Feels Good" is the best tool for the job, when that is not always the case. Are you building a race car to maximize performance or a Cadillac to take on a Sunday drive? The "Feel" of those two cars are not going to be the same.

    That is what I was planning on doing before I throw my slide in the vice. Some wide transitions as well as some longer distance bill drills to see how the sights track on each, compare times/hits on all drills.

    And Cadillac CTS-V, race car/grocery getter. Haha

    I appreciate the input, thank you!

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  3. If your smith can make a delrin guide rod, it will help even more. We used to have them back in the day. Very lite, slick, and cheap.

    Im running a GI guide rod. I have a strong dislike for anything full length.

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  4. Thank you for posting that thread. Some interesting information. I am going to have to go out and shoot both guns again.

    My buddies has a cut in the spring channel, and some holes in the top radii.

    I will have to weigh his slide and mine.

    Personally I prefer the cleaner look of no holes.

    If his feels better than mine after close examination, maybe I will look into just tri-topping it and maybe some internal lightening. That should keep the weight reduction pretty balanced.

    On a side note, SolidWorks says a stock 6" 1911 slide is 14 some ounces.

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  5. Thanks for the info, I'm looking to take a little weight off the muzzle end, that's the reason for the slide cuts.

    I'm already running a GI style guide rod.

    I took the cuts out of the spring channel, they were only worth about .4 ounces.

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  6. I just built a 6" short dust cover, bushing barrel 2011. It shoots great, recoil seems very soft. When I first built it I as planning on just a tri-top, then after I got it together and shot it, I thought I don't need any cuts... that was until I shot my buddies gun (set up almost identical to mine, its where I got the bug for Limited), his has slide cuts, mine doesn't. Recoil feels really similar, but his transitions a lot better than mine. So I'm back to wanting to cut the slide up. This is what I came up with in SolidWorks.

    IMG_1079_zpsddsxrcan.jpg

    IMG_1078_zps6vtob4g1.jpg

    IMG_1076_zps6guzgy9c.jpg

    IMG_1080_zpsjnlpyk9k.jpg

    Anyone see any major issues with these cuts? I'm new to Limited and new to lightening slides (not new to machining)

  7. I went 6", short dust cover, bushing barrel. I shot a few guns before I built mine and that was the combo I liked the best.

    The full dust cover, 5" bull barrel guns felt too front heavy to me, the recoil was minimal but the transitions felt slow.

    Right now mine doesn't have any lightening cuts in the slide, it shoots good, but after comparing it to my buddies gun that is almost identical to mine but has some lightening cuts, the recoil feels the same but it is a lot easier to transition quickly and accurately.

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  8. I shoot a 180 grain bayou with 4.7 grains of TG and come in at 172 (6" kart barrel). My buddy is using 4.8 of TG with a 180 grain X-treme and coming in right at 172 as well (5" edge".

    These feels extremely soft to me, our group has 3 6" bushing barrel guns and 5" edge, all with PT steel grips, I'm coming from shooting SS using a 200 grain bayou and 4.7 grains of WST.

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  9. 2-3 uspsa matches. Usually 1 steel match.

    If the weather permits and I'm not busy, I will live fire if I am not shooting a match.

    Dry fire 5-6 days a week, usually 2 times a day.

    Then I shoot indoor "action shooting" Wednesday nights and same indoor with pistol and rifle every other Saturday.

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  10. I use Liquid Grip most of the time. I only put it on my weak hand fingers and backside of my strong hand. I either run a SS with 20lpi checkering on the front strap with VZs or a PT aggressive textured grip so the gun moving in my hand isn't an issue.

    But my weak hand moves on my strong hand when it's cold/dry or sweaty.

    Pro grip seems to work a little better in the winter for me when it's cold/dry.

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  11. I agree with learning how to call shots and figure out acceptable sight pictures for certain targets/distances. Look at target transitions, not just splits.

    I like to shoot "singles" in live fire, 3 targets, 1 shot per target, it will push your transition speed up. Another good drill is "the Blake drill" 3 targets, 3-10 yards out, 2 shots to each target and you want it to sound like a bill drill (splits and transitions the same), focus on the speed part of that drill (you will drop some shots) but after a few times you will start to see the front sight and get your hits.

    The key for me was finding the sweet spot between speed and getting hits, but once it started coming together it all got easier.

    As far as movement (if you're slow there) get a $10 speed ladder from Amazon and work on foot speed. I found some drills for a speed ladder online, figured out the foot work, now I do the same footwork drills but set up targets and dry fire while doing them.

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  12. I laid into it the other night until it fed, ended up at about 27.5 degrees.

    So far has bench tested on flat points loaded from 1.2-1.06 (a few got short slamming into the feed ramp testing it). Also running on stock STI tubes (not tuned).

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  13. I'm building my first limited gun (not my first 1911 style pistol). I'm wondering if anyone has the correct angle for a feed ramp (W/N ramp, 40 S&W).

    I have a Kart barrel, the ramp angle is at 24 degrees. I know that's way too steep for a regular non ramped barrel for .45 but this ramped barrel and 40 game is new to me.

    Thanks.

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  14. Yikes! A division with just one shooter? That's not revolver? Does your local match have less than a dozen people attend it?

    But you touch on a different thing that I think is important. When you're shooting, shoot! At the match is not the time to be doing this analysis.

    From one of my favorite books, Mind Gym, "Focus on actions, not outcomes."

    We have anywhere from 30-50 shooters at my home range. A lot of the same people at a range an hour away, where I'm still the only SS shooter. I have to drive 3 hours to shoot with 3-4 other SS shooters. I guess it's just not a popular division up here in Washington.

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  15. At my local matches I am the only SS shooter, not a lot of production shooters. I usually compare my scores to a few guys in limited.

    When I go to the other side of the state, I have a few other limited guys I compare my score to.

    I don't get wrapped up in ANY of this at the matches. When I'm at the match I can only control my process, so I don't worry about the score. The process is what it's all about, the score will work itself out.

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