Jayohee
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Posts posted by Jayohee
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Owned mine for a little over a month now and shot between 6-7 matches and I couldn't be happier.
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That looked awesome for your first time shooting a Texas Star! My first time I panicked and just shot like a wild man on fire. The best advice I was given was to slow down! (who woulda thought??)
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I've looked at plenty of places around me: Walmart, Home Depot, Office Max, Target and ironically the best place was a dollar store called "Daiso" (a Japanese frugal store). The only problem is that the color is off but not by much.
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I cannot draw the G17 any faster the the G34. Im 6'3 with long arms and the extra .9oz and the little extra weight does not seem to matter. The shorter sight radius does not get on target any faster the a longer sight radius.There is nothing a 17 does better than a 34.
- Draw is faster
- Get on target quicker with smaller sight radius
YEP !!!
If is was a little man the 17 may be a advantage.
I'm 5'6" does the count? lol
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The problem with finding the right gun is that you need to shoot A LOT of them in order to find out which one is for you. Try running a few practice sessions with a buddies gun if you can. I thought I'd stay with my G34 forever in Prod until I shot a CZ. After I felt my buddy's trigger I felt like I had been lied to this whole time!
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The classifiers are important because they contain the procedures and challenges one would need to master in order to place high at a national level. Matches are also important because it shows how consistently you can perform those procedures and demonstrate skill over a longer period of time.I personally would rather rather win a match or rank high consistently than have a nice classification title. But I do like that there's a way to show your progression through the classification system. That said it's also easier to look at someone's class than pull up their last five match performances.
At the end of the day I want to be the best and the best are usually Masters and Grand Masters, not sandbagging A's or B's
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I've thought about the SIRT but the problem is that it only mimics one shooting platform
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I have problems with swingers as well (B shooter Prod) and I believe it's less about their difficulty as much as it is a lack of practice. Whenever we have practice sessions no one ever sets up a swinger and I think the next opportunity I get I'll be asking the duty RO if we can set one up. Another thing I've seen is people who track the swinger on the 1st presentation. I subscribed to a local A shooter's Youtube channel and he consistently seems to get AA or AC this way. He's also in Prod
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But the psychological aspect of it is what is costing me. I'm really down about it and wondering if I should just give the whole sport up.
Bottom line: Don't be a pansy. Train your weaknesses. Learn.
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Will any of the Springer base pads work with 10 rd 9mm mags from Mec-Gar? Which ones are the pads on the far left in the above pic? I'm assuming they're either the 16 or 17 rounders as the 18 rounders are too tall and keep the mag from being seated in my Accu.
Thanks!
They won't work with the 10 round mags.
Which ones are on the far ends of the picture?
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Will any of the Springer base pads work with 10 rd 9mm mags from Mec-Gar? Which ones are the pads on the far left in the above pic? I'm assuming they're either the 16 or 17 rounders as the 18 rounders are too tall and keep the mag from being seated in my Accu.
Thanks!
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What's wrong with using a snap cap?
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Congrats! I don't think you'll regret it. Just don't judge the trigger by what's out of the box. Get it tuned in and you'll see why ppl like CZs and switch to them (like me!)
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I shoot Prod - started with a Sig, then a Glock 34 and now an Accu Shadow. Personally, it is the best DA/SA trigger I've used once it is tuned right.
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There is nothing a 17 does better than a 34.
- Draw is faster
- Get on target quicker with smaller sight radius
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yeah my bad. it will reduce the 'at rest' position of the DA trigger. so move the 'start' position back towards you. duh! you can see the disco is much longer. with the thicker trunk it should reduce the SA pretravel as well.
one piece of advice though. if you find you can get better SA reset and pre-travel with the regular CGW short reset disco then I'd probably go that way.
think of how many DA shots there are in a match (excluding clasifiers). maybe 10 every 12 stages (unloaded starts mean a SA first shot). but in those 12 stages you'll fire around 240 or more SA shots. so it's about 1 DA shot to every 20 SA. so for me, getting a great SA trigger is way more important than the DA.
Exactly
My SA is already very good for my me personally. After lowering the hammer spring and polishing it's down to about 3#. The DA currently sits at 7# but I would like a better sitting position. It's not a huge deal but any opportunity to tune the gun to my liking I'll take!
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Thanks for the replies. David I'll try to give you a call tomorrow but email is better for me. I'll send you message soon.
BeerBaron, I'm trying to improve the DA "feel" (or reach) as I have somewhat small/average size hands. The reach of the OEM trigger makes it tough for me to accurately draw and get an alpha at speed.
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Here's the kit with what I assume is the disconnector. Looking at the Accu Shadow I'm not even sure if the disconnector will fit anywhere?
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The card board trick is taking a thin piece of card board or playing card. Cut a narrow strip, say 3/16 of an inch. Rack the slide back about 1/4 and insert card in gap created by moving the slide back. Close slide and pull trigger. Now you can pull the trigger countless times with full trigger movement.
I need more help with this trying to do the cardboard trick so I can dry fire Glock 19; Please help!
It's not a 'trick' just stick anything soft in between the breach face and barrel and you're good to go
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I used a stock photo of what it looks like (based off memory). I'll take an actual picture tonight
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I am in fact using a Dillon 550. Thanks for the tips
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ok, so I've been trying to completely shoot everything on the move for the last month or so. Guess what, I"m doing much worst than I used to!! So the obvious explanation is that I"m over doing it. The question is, when in a stage to shoot on the move and when to simply move faster to some point then start shooting??
Have you looked at your time/points relative to the top shooters in the match? Did they also shoot on the move? Whenever I try something new (granted I executed it well) I compare my time/points the top guys to see if it was worth it or not. Taking videos of them and looking at my own also helps. I shot a plate rate on the move yesterday and although I executed it pretty well I found that compared to the top guys it didn't make much of a difference (it's in my latest vid, stage 4). I was probably just as good hustling into position and mowing them down, which would be an easier approach of the two.
That said, people like Max Michel say easy targets should either be shot on the move or shot with an easy exit. It will obviously depend on your ability and comfort level but something wide open @ 5-6 yards is kind of a no brainer
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I ordered some parts from CGW including the RRK for my Acc Shadow. I know how to disassemble the gun and polish (thanks KneelingAtlas!) but the RRK came with a a disconnector and I have no idea where to put it. Can anyone show me where I can find a quick DIY or at least tell me what I'm supposed to do to install it? Sorry for the noobie questions as I'm completely new to CZs and have been shooting a Glock for USPSA.
UPDATED PIC:
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I shoot 147's (RN Xtreme) exclusively and have run at least 200-300 no problem with my new Shadow @ 1.14" OAL. No throating needed
Glock porn
in Glock
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My thoughts exactly hahaha. But hey, if you love it you love it that's what matters