[JP GMR-15 - best place to buy??]

I have one I’m thinking a bought parting with.  It’s had around 100 rounds through it.  I’ve had it for maybe 2 years and never made it to a match.  Let me know if you are interested and I’ll shoot you some pics.

 

 

 

 

 

[MBX PRO Competition PCC unboxing, tabletop, and shooting review.]

Does have an ambi mag release?

[New PCC......]

I’d like to see a build list.  It’s a real good looking rifle!

[Diamondback 9mm AR?]

Everything I’ve seen come out of  Diamondback has been pure junk.  Poor customer service as well.

[Left Handed Mag Release for my JP GMR-15]

1 hour ago, MemphisMechanic said:

 

Ok. Know that your options are a $$$ Glock ambi lower, or any old colt SMG magazine lower with a traditional AR-15 ambi mag catch installed.

 

 Colt’s SMG Magazine was specifically designed to adapt the AR platform to a 32 rd 9mm, so they placed the notch in the magazine body where the 5.56 magazine release is.

 

I like the ergos of the Troy ambi catch if you go that route - their lefthanded button is situated perfectly for the index finger tip. But it’s backordered 3 weeks everywhere right now - I know because I ordered one from Troy on Friday for my PCC build.  

 

 

 

Thanks.  That’s great to know.  I’d love to see your finished PCC when you get it done.  Please shoot me a pic or two if you think about it.

[Left Handed Mag Release for my JP GMR-15]

14 minutes ago, MemphisMechanic said:

 

Buy a Gibbz Or KE Arms lower with an ambi magazine catch and swap all of theJP components onto it, then sell the factory lower.

 

It’s not cheap but it gets you the gun that you want!

 

 

I’m going to sell the JP and start over.Those kind of deals never quite work out for me.

[Left Handed Mag Release for my JP GMR-15]

16 hours ago, MemphisMechanic said:

The only options I'm aware of are Gibbz and one other company's ambidextrous Glock lower - I do not know of anyone that makes an aftermarket Lefthanded mag release for the JP/QC10/similar Glock lowers. At all.

 

This is precisely why I am building a Colt magazine fed PCC: Because it uses the standard AR-15 magazine release. You can simply install a Troy or Norgon left-side magazine release - I'd be running a Glock mag fed gun with a JP or QC receiver set if it wasn't for this one crucial issue!

Yeah that is what I was afraid of by looking at the design of the lower.  Looks like I finally get my dream gun and I’ll have to sell it and get something else.  Very depressing!

[Left Handed Mag Release for my JP GMR-15]

I just picked up my JP GMR-15 9mm today.  I need to get a left handed mag release for it.  I know it is different than a standard receiver.  I’d like to get the most reliable so any help would be appreciated.

 

Thanks,

[Vortex Vennom for PCC]

Thanks for all the help!

[Vortex Vennom for PCC]

Why is there so little love for the Votex Vennom when it comes to sights on a PCC?  I see some mention of some similar sights but not much on them.

 

Thanks,

[C-More confusion]

45 minutes ago, ToddKS said:

I have both polymer and aluminum. I only got the aluminum because I got a good deal on it here in the classifieds. The aluminum is heavier. I have had no issues with my 2 polymer Railways.

I recommend the Arredando lever for the adjustment knob. Makes it easy to set to your normal level of brightness and you can confirm at a glance you have it turned off.

Thanks for the info.

[C-More confusion]

7 minutes ago, aandabooks said:

Click switch is only available in plastic.

 

Are you sure about that?  This is on Planet Optics.

[C-More confusion]

After years of watching used C-More sights being sold on various classifieds pages, now that I want one there are no used ones for sale.  So I’m trying to find the best deal out there with a lot of confusion.  From what I’ve gathered from users is I want one with a click switch.  Some say only get the aluminum while others say the polymer body has served them well for many years of use.  I’m Leary of buying one on Amazon because there seems to be no drop down boxes asking for aluminum or polymer.  Some vendors advertise the same price for the polymer as the aluminum.  Which seems a little sketchy to me.

 

So that being said, where is the best place to buy one.  I’m thinking polymer or aluminum, click switch, black 8 MOA.

 

Thanks for any assistance.

[Lets talk MOA’s]

Great to know. Thanks

[C-More Sights]

So is the aluminum worth the price difference over the plastic ones?

 

Thanks,

[Lets talk MOA’s]

Thanks for all the replies.

[Lets talk MOA’s]

So I think I think I decided on a C-More sight for my PCC.  Now the question I have is what MOA are the top shooters using?  My 1st guess would be a 6 or 8 MOA.  Any help would be much appreciated.

 

Thanks,

[Stock 2 Firing Pin Block]

Put the factory firing pin back in and see if the FPB works right. If that is the case you probably should by an extended FPB and fit it to the extended firing pin. There are tons of threads on how to do this.

[What causes this wear on a firing pin?]

My google-fu is weak and the search results aren't showing what is done to fit the new fpb.

Nealio, would you be so kind as to restate the procedure?

Mine would not allow the FP to go forward with the hammer cocked and holding the hammer and trigger back while checking didn't feel any drag....yet there was still interference marking on the pin and wear on the block after lots of da dry fire.

Thanks to everyone for the input. Mealie, could you repost you or send a link to the proper fitting of the FPB?

Thanks,

[What causes this wear on a firing pin?]

Picture is a Large Frame Extreme Firing pin. Result is FPB does not work if you press hard on the back of the firing pin when it is engaged with the hammer fully cocked.

What needs done so this does not happen again?

Thanks,

[Severe creep in SA on a Limited Pro]

The worst thing you could have done was stone the hammer. Put the t3 in. Of course it won't reset, it's a full fit disco. Fit the disco and your pre travel will disappear.

I understand what the T3 does to pre travel. The severe creep is happening after you take up the pre travel. I didn't think the type of disco had anything to do with SA trigger pull. With the hammer fully cocked you can watch how far the hammer notches have to move off the sear.

[Severe creep in SA on a Limited Pro]

So I set up my knew Limited Pro yesterday. I installed EGD light hammer and firing pin springs, CGW light TRS, CZ light sear spring, Henning 18# plunger spring, and did all the usual polishing. I left the one piece sear and the original hammer in the gun. DA is 6 lbs. 4 oz. and SA is 2 lbs 8 oz.. Plus the safety feels great and the firing pin block works great with no tinkering. Pretty respectable, not as good as the Stock 2's I've set up but it might come in a little. My problem is in SA it has a huge amount of creep. I took another factory hammer and put it in and it was identical. So I stoned the SA hammer notches in a fixture to keep the same angle. I made a little head way on the creep but when the sear comes off the SA notches it catches the disco or something and then eventually ends up on the safety notch. Speaking of the disco I left the factory disco in and did not fit a T3 disco yet. It needs fitted so badly when in the gun it won't go to DA or SA.

I tried a Titan hammer from another gun and it feels the same only my safeties and the FPB don't work so I took it back out.

Any suggestions?

[Eotech on an AR 15]

Forward—or, imagine the sight stays still as the rifle recoils backwards; you want the sight not to move, so it needs to be forward in the grooves.

Awesome! Thank you

[Eotech on an AR 15]

So once I have it in position on my rail do push it back before I lock it down or do I push it forward before I lock it down?

Thanks,

[CZ Shadows 2 is coming]

Is it just me or does the slide on the Shadow 2 look a little leaner and meaner?

Hard to tell, but the serrations look larger, and from some angles it appears the slide might taper more inwards at the top....both could shave a bit of weight. On the flip side, the dust cover only has one cutout for an attachment, so it should be a tad heavier.

Don't forget about the checkering and more aggressive frame under cuts. That might make it a little lighter.