Gdub
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Posts posted by Gdub
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Here's mine! Both 9mm's and both decked completely out.
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This probably is not the right forum for this but is Double Alpha's Shotmax timer any good for Dry fire or range training?
Thanks,
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Mine had a hole drilled all the way through for the set screw. Red locktite all in the sight cut secured my Dawson sight from moving.
Can't you get the set screw to deep to where it would contact the barrel?
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I just reinstalled my factory front site on my Stock II. One of the reasons besides feeling I shoot the factory blade better is that I could not keep my Dawson fiber optic site from moving back and fourth (front to back). This movement seemed to fracture my fiber optic rod in my site every couple of training sessions. This is caused by the set screw in the site is a much smaller diameter compared tappered hole that Tanfo. puts in the gun for the factory site. Am I missing something on how to keep the aftermarket site in place? I do know that if you tighten the set screw down to tight you can actually poke the set screw clear through the slide. That's how thin the material is on the slide at that point.
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Anyone else as weird as me and shoot better with the factory front site that comes on the gun rather than a fiber optic front site?
Let me state that I've shot and dry fired hundreds of thousands of rounds out of single action Colts and Rugers during my 19 year Cowboy Action Shooting phase.
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Well the 140mm springs were meant to work with extended base pads that extends the length of the mag to 140mm.
I would use the factory follower and spring. I am willing to bet that will solve your issue.
They still hold 17 rounds. That is what threw me. I'm eating the crap out of the factory ones with practicing mag changes. Is it because I don't have a dummy round in the mag?
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So when you say it won't strip the final round off the mag, is it leaving it there or misfeeding?
A 140mm spring in a standard mag is comparible to the crazy stiff Mec-Gar stock springs
Yes it just leaves it in the mag. Like it passes right over it. Yes the 140mm feels about like the factory spring.
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They are the ones labeled for the Tanfo. Stock II. I can't find them on their website though. I also can't find the post that someone told me to use a certain size.
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How many coils are you running on the spring?
What ever the 140 mm has. I didn't count the coils just dropped them in the tubes.
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If you get light strikes, polish/remove burrs from the firing pin channel. Most are really rough.
Can you recommend how to polish the firing pin channel?
Thanks
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The shockbottles from Ben. Which are not extended.
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No you do not have to take the trigger bar out. Just take a pair of needle nose plyers and press the trigger plunger down and trist it until the nose is facing backwards and let it come bak up. Keep the whole covered on the side of the mag release so the plunger and spring don't go flying out. Of course the trigger has to be in the forward position to get the trigger bar out of the way. It's a tight fit so don't give up to soon. It will turn. Putting it back in I have to pull the trigger bar up as far as it will go to get the plunger to turn back to the forward position. I have a gunsmith vise with soft jaws and that makes it a ton easier to do.
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I recently bought a couple of the Grams kits for a couple of Stock II mags that the followers are chewed up enough tha they wedged against the slide lock and won't drop out of the gun. The kits went in and the gun runs perfect except for one problem. No matter what I do the gun will not strip the final round off the mag.
Any suggestions?
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Good info. Thanks to all
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I run a 9lb in my match gun, and if I am doing practice only I do an 11lb. 11lb seems to be able to shoot longer without getting sluggish.
The 9lb definitely feels better and lighter recoiling.
Wyatt
So the lighter recoil spring gave you less felt recoil? I would think it would be the opposite for some reason. I have no science to back that up just trying to realize how the gun operates.
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Anyone running a 8# long slide recoil spring in their Stock II 9mm?
Also, does recoil spring weight make a difference in recoil?
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That's one SICK CZ!!
Who did the work?
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It's prolly the gen3, the gen4 I think was worth the upgrade.
I'll see how it runs at the range this week. If I have any problems I'll order one.
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Have you tried both the gen 3 and gen4 Henning firing pins? The FP block may need to be fitted to the Henning firing pins.
I tried the cutting a coil off the EG light hammer spring and 2 coils off the EG light FP spring simply to test out. It's a fine balancing act between reliability and chasing the lightest trigger. I'm running the Henning Gen4 FP in both my Stock III's and have a delta hammer on one and a Titan on the other. Using Fed primers I have yet to have a light strike in roughly 600-800ish rounds total since cutting the hammer spring. I only tried to experiment plus being the Gen4 firing pin was a tad longer and 25% lighter I assumed it could somewhat counterbalance the cut coils. If it works with the factory FP then great but personally I would have to run an extended firing pin to feel safe. My little test is that once I've fired the gun if the hammer ends up completely flush with the retainer plate (not being able to push hammer forward any) then it's good to go for me. I actually cut one coil off one end of an EG light hammer spring and one off the other end for 2 coils total and it feels great but only about 100 rounds thru the gun with that spring and zero light strikes yet and want to go least 1000 without any to say it's reliable. Hope this helps
To tell you the trueth I don't know what gen the firing pin is. I know it's not the latest one.
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I had an extra EG Extreme Light Hammer spring so I cut a coil off of it and through it back in a Stock II that is loaded with all the go fast parts including the new Titan Hammer. I couldn't get the Henning XL firing pin to work so I left the factory one in it. Gun feels great and it pops Federal primers seated on a 1050 pretty deep. It does feel better than running the full length EG Light Hammer spring. DA is 7 1/4# and SA is 2 1/2#.
Any one else try this or am I asking for trouble?
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Mine stuck with an uncut factory spring as well.
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I just went through the stuck firing pin as well in my new Stock II. I installed a Henning XL firing pin and EG Light Firing Pin Return Spring. Plus a LRA Extra Long FPB safety. I tried every combo with the parts I have and the only combo I could get to work is with the factory firing pin. I could even get the Henning firing pin to stick during install without dry firing the gun. That leads me to believe it's the firing pin.
Whats everbody think?
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How much you looking to get out of the belt?I've got a 32 inch waist and use a 34 Double alpha belt. He should be fine with a 32 and they are easy to find.
I don't have one to sell, I just wanted to say it isn't hard to find a belt that will fit him. Mine is a little under 5 years old and still going strong. You can get a 32 here. http://www.benstoegerproshop.com/mobile/product.aspx?ProductCode=daa-belt&404;http://www.benstoegerproshop.com:80/Double-Alpha-DAA-Competition-Double-Belt-1-1-2-p/daa-belt.htm=
Gotcha Thanks
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I've got a 32 inch waist and use a 34 Double alpha belt. He should be fine with a 32 and they are easy to find.
How much you looking to get out of the belt?
Best most reliable firing pin for a stock 2
in Tanfoglio (EAA / IFG)
Posted
I tried a Henning 3rd gen and it would stick in the most forward position with an EGD light firing pin spring. I put the factory one back in and my S2 ran fine. For peace of mind I ordered the Henning 4th gen and the gun runs fine during dry fire. I haven't taken it to the range yet but I can't see why it wouldn't run fine there as well. As a side note I'm running a LRA extended firing pin block with both firing pins.