westczek

Does anyone know if the SR9 safety lever must be engaged before the atart signalin USPSA production? Or can you leave the lever off when making ready. In other words do you have to use the SR9 safety lever in USPSA production? Westczek

I've come in first and last before... Westczek

The deed is done. My 686's spur is now a little piece of scrap in a bin on my workbench, and my dremal's life has meaning. Thanks for the encouragement. Here is the before and after. Westczek

I can get my thumb over to the web of my strong hand for a good grip when shooting my L-frame, but it doesn't seem natural after shooting autos in production. I have been teezed for my auto style grip on the revolver. I'm trying to curl my thumb some more because it does get a little toasted. If I'm not careful it can get in the way of my trigger finger as I pull the trigger back. It is a work in progress. Westczek

I have the Millet on my S&W 686, but was wondering if the SDM semi-fixed rear sight would be good. It is much more expensive than the Millet and is only adjustable for elevation. Westczek

There seams to be a ground swell for removing the spur. And of course my Dremel sure is in need of some quality time. Who can argue with high speed low drag. Just because the shooter is slow doesn't mean the gun has to look slow. I do agree, that revolvers sans spur do look kinda funny. I will post before and after pictures after the badages come off. Thanks Westczek

Thanks all, I can't remember the last time I cocked the hammer for a single action shot. So I won't miss the hammer spur for that. Would I have ignition problems by bobbing the hammer, even if I stick with the stock springs? I just can't reliably get Federal primers. Although I managed to score a box today! I don't think the spur has ever been stopped in its movement by my hand, but it is a little crowded. I have been working on a high hold, like Bubber suggests. Westczek

This will be my second season shooting my S&W 686 in USPSA revolver division. I'm building up the courage to bob the hammer. It seams like what all the cool kids are doing. I'm not sure if it will do much for me, shooting wise. I run stock springs, because I manage with what ever primers I happen to find. Does anyone think I will notice any difference from bobbing the hammer? Does anyone think I would be making a mistake by cutting off the manual cocking divice? Should I just wait? Lay it out to me... why or why not.

I bought a 6 shot cylinder for my S&W 686-plus, just so I could shoot USPSA. I swap the old 7 shot cylinder in when I want to shoot steel. I'm shooting a revolver because I have always loved the guns and I wanted a change from production. I shoot 38 special minor, and I'm D class, and at a disadvantage to the 625s, but I'm shooting revolver anyway. I tink if any one really wants to shoot revolver they would. Some people are just too worried about how much harder it is.

I've been running my loaded cartridges through a taper crimp die after crimping to make them uniform. Havent ha a problem dropping them in since, even at the end of a match, with no pressure needed. I'm using 38 special in a 686. Hope this helps.

Lubechtech, I use my S&W 686 for USPSA, had it and a 7-shot moonclipped by Ten-ring Precision. Works well and they did a good job.